MarkHuntsman

As far as i know, aerodecks came without rear ARB and that bit/bar you see there is just a rear lower tie bar, which supports the LCA mounts in subframe. I dont know where that came from, but it was there when i bought it, but i have not seen one like this one in shops. Mine are aliexpress special 2.5" mini projectors, they take only H1 bulb, but i have to yet confirm that. They came with H4 and H7 adapters, what means you take out the bulb retainer from standard headlight, slide the back side of the projector through the hole for the bulb, slide the adapter plate onto the projector from the back and then tighten a retaining nut. I think you can see the installation if you search on ytb for "morimoto mini H1 install" or something like that, as these seem to be quite close to the construction and mounting process as morimoto 2.5" mini h1 projectors. I will take some photos when i get home after the holidays. Thanks for the info. Guy that runs the shop where i ordered the pads called me after i placed the order. He asked me two things, first, if i can provide him VIN number, to check fitment. Second thing he asked, if i race hillclimb, or track, i said no, just road use and if he would be more likely to recommend EBC... No, only for road use, predators are great, as they have much higher friction coeficient than greenstuff and they brake better when cold, but they do overheat and fade on track. About those mikoda discs, i found some comments on them. There were two completely different opinions on them, either people said they are great, or people that said they dont trust them, since they are suspicious how cheap they are made in poland. But have not found one saying someone had them and had problems. I will see when i fit them.

Nice build so far. Can you please post some photos of the backside of those projectors? I am working on my retrofit at the moment and i am curious how you mounted them. I went the lazy route and got myself some Mini H1 projectors, which use the threaded shaft, locating spacer and a nut, to simply slide in the position of H4 bulb and tighten in place...

While i was writing that wall of text, i forgot to ask for your opinion on Predator Fast Road brake pads from Black Diamond and ATM Mikoda brake discs. Somewhere i found, that Mikoda, even though the are company from poland, produces brake discs for brembo europe, and friend of mine recomended them as he has their slotted discs on B18C4 swapped EK4. Also, i am again taking a closer look at honda legend frond brake calipers, as the should be direct fit, but are dual piston... As plans for near future go, i am considering a hardrace rear sway bar, since i cant get MG ZR/ZS one cheap in my area, and with shipping they cost about the same.

Hi folks, I am sorry for not posting here for almost a year... there were some minor updates to where the car is right now, but more to come. I got the car back on the road pretty soon by then, unfortunately, I still have black bonnet... Hope to get it all painted during summer. TL;DR: maintenance, repairs and some more repairs... For now I will start with what has been done maintenance wise. Shortly after accident OEM clutch, bearing pressure plate and fresh MTF. J&R right axle, 555 lower ball joints. This was done in a shop, since I was not sure I would be able to replace clutch by myself and I had to have the car running, before I went on a vacation to Montenegro with my girlfriend. 3500km total in two weeks... After we came back front left shock absorber failed... (this car started to turn into a money pit, bummer). While I was at it I changed all 4 for KYB Excel G. About two weeks later one morning the car refused to start, would crank, but nothing more... it got fuel, it got air, it cranked, oh right... no spark... I checked the spark plugs and the gap seemed a bit too wide, ot maybe the coil was failing. I ended up bending the spark plugs, to narrow the gap as much as possible without breaking them, but them back in and the car started like new. Nice. Shady repair, but it had to do since I was 300km away from home and it was Sunday morning, so nowhere to get parts. After I got back new NGK coil, spark plugs, dizzy cap and rotor went right in. By the end of summer air con stopped working again, we checked for leaks with UV, everything seemed to be OK, except compressor. I looked online for new compressors, 200-350eur.. how much is rebuild kit for denso compressor? 25eur delivered... in about 2 hours of time compressor was all cleaned up, resealed and ready to go back into the car, where in the meantime I put secondhand unit I got from my buddy, but turned out the clutch was not working on the replacement one. I was driving with the bad compressor for almost 3 months before I had the time to put the original but resealed one back in. Right before Christmas A/C belt tensioner bolt snapped on highway destroying alternator belt. New belt in, still did not get a replacement bolt. At least I got the rest of the bolt out of the bracket. By the end of January I had some time in the workshop, so I managed to change timing belt, tensioner, water pump, auxiliary belts, termostat, coolant flush, fresh oil, filters, adjusted valve clearance and some other minor details. A while back I got some scraping noise from rear right wheel, after taking the wheel and brake caliper off, I found inner brake pad worn to the base plate, got new pads during few hours, but discs were nowhere to be found that day, so I replaced just the pads and made a note to replace the discs ASAP as well. Unfortunately before I managed to replace them, the car had to go for state inspection (our equivalent of MOT). It failed due to weak rear brakes and almost non-existing parking brake... And here we are today, car off the streets, until I decide which brake discs and pads to get... In the mean time I am puting together second set of headlights with bi-xenon projectors retrofit, to simply drop them in and have original set as backup if I get into trouble with the police. More pics to come, I need to put them together from two phones and from a long time ago...

So is COTM May still open? I may toss mine in, to not have a one horse race also a pic of test fit of new rims before i have them registered

Front bumper and headlight mounts are being welded in these days, but i still have to find a silver hood, or get some other colour and then wrap/paint it. If i dont find any silver one before the weekend, i will pick up green or black one that i can have for 40eur alongside front bumper brace for another 10eur. What is left to do is to have that front piece which holds the hood lock pulled out a bit and repair/replace A/C radiator and hardline tube that runs in front of radiators as it is crushed. Also i almost forgot about the right fog light, but i will be looking for it when i will have rest of the parts needed, since it is not actually needed to have the car on the road again. All in all the repair will not be that expensive, but it is still a bummer...

Minor accident on Friday, hope to have it sorted by next week. I may be pretty unfortunate, since this is second accident within last six months... As it is right now, tomorrow I am going to have bumper, lip and headlight mounts welded, on Sunday I am about to pick up a bonnet, which is unfortunately blue and probably straighten front frame (not sure how is the piece which holds the bonnet lock, light mounts and radiators called) myself and I am going to order AC radiator and front bumper brace right now. Also I am about to pick up OZ Superturismo 16" wheels on Thursday.

Working on it

Please be patient, accidents happen... But i hope to have it all repaired within a week.

I think it should do the trick but give me a few days, to get my alloys on the car, wash it and take some photos.

Well, it seems i forgot about COTM for the third month in a row... I guess i should turn on notifications for it

Exhaust done Also there is oil on spark plug for cylinder one...

I even ordered dremmel like grinder/cutter made by proxxon, but it arrived two days late. As for the other one, I might do that ona too, since I have the axle at home, but I was not able to source Honda MTF at the time, so I left it for another time. But what helped immensely was a cutting disc worn down to about 80-85mm, when I tried that it was about 10 mins of actual cutting.

Some more updates and pics. I have successfully replaced the axle on my second attempt. All I needed was an angle grinder with cutting disc of the right size to get into the hub and a chisel. Time total was about 4 hours of cutting, prying, whacking and swearing, but after I got the nut out it took roughly 20mins to have the car back on the ground. Unfortunately, during last two weeks some other issues appeared. Exhaust rusted through and rear muffler is totally disconnected from the mid section. From what i read on fb group, Toyosports exhausts are pretty decent quality, so I got a 60mm stainless cat back for 280€ delivered, but there was obvious mistake from the seller. I paid for one, but received two full sets with a day difference... I tried to compare it to the original exhaust and it seems to line up perfectly, although it is supposed to be for MB6 not MC2. As far as other problems go, F/L upper ball joint has a nasty clank when the suspension is fully decompressed for example on speed bumps and A/C is not working, probably just needs to be refilled.

Repairs update: Yesterday i tried to replace the broken driveshaft with no success at all. Rust vs. me 1:0. Since i dont have any airtools so i tried to get the axle nut off with 1/2" drive breaker bar. Result was two broken breaker bars. Then i tried cutting the nut, but i could not get the cutting disc on angle grinder deep enough because of extended lip of the hub. After the weekend i will probably get a dremmel and cut the rest of the nut. What i am afraid of is that i would have problems taking the axle out of the hub, if it is rusted as well... If you have any tips please let me know. I will try to hammer it out of the hub, but if it will not budge, i may as well get the whole hub out and have it pressed out at a friend of mine. For now i plan to replace just the left side driveshaft, to be able to drive the car to said friend and let him replace the other one, as i am a bit lazy to drain and refill the gearbox.

It is VTi-S front lip i believe.

As i said it was not worth it repairing, as the quote on repair was 10k just for airbags and other safety items. Also the floor under my feet was pushed inwards by the wheel. It probably could be repaired with the money i got from insurance, but if i was to spend that money on fk, i could just pay 300-400 more and get another fk with less k's on the clock. There was one injury though, i scratched my arm on door lock as i was getting out of the car The deck is not that sweet at the moment, since the rear bumper is cracked... Girlfriends and parking does not go well together. But should be fairly easy to repair. About those rims, i was considering banded wheels, but in my personal opinion they don't fit the deck, same goes for stretched tires. I was looking for something like OZ superturismo. Another thing is, due to Slovak legislation i can not fit any other size of rim/tire than is OE spec, unless it comes with TUV/KB certificate and if i were to get 16" or even 17" rims, only OZ have those certificates for MC2... So time will tell, i might as well change my mind in the future.

That was my thought as well, but that was before i saw LEDs with just two chips per side, so they are roughly in the same position as halogen bulb wires. Of course i would not even try those LEDs that look like a corn cob those are just a mess. Also 12€ for pair does not hurt my wallet as much as other things on my list, even if they are garbage and i have to switch back to halogen.

As i said, i forgot, i will also have to replace steering rack and i am considering lightened flywheel along the clutch change.

Hi all, it was about time i stopped posting in the wrong thread and started my own. For the start a quick story about how i got my aerodeck. About 4 years ago, when i was looking for my first car, i found out that Honda decided to put B18 into family sedan/wagon, but at that time, there were none for sale in Slovakia ad i could not afford importing one, so I settled for the most reasonable option: Skoda Felicia for 370€ which i have to this day. My father had an FK2 Civic at that time, which i fell in love with from occasional driving. Fast forward 3 years, i dropped out of university (again) and decided to end my student life and find a job. Within a few weeks i got employed as a CNC machinist with above average pay. At this point of time, my father was considering retirement and a purchase of a new car. We decided, that when he buys new one, the FK2 will stay in family instead of getting sold. It was the end of october when he brought home 2017 Mazda 3 (2.0, petrol, auto) and i started to pay for the FK (200€/mo, 4500€ total). It was only 16th of december when i was coming home from night shift when i fell asleep behind the wheel, resulting in a crash into oncoming car. Luckily nobody was hurt, as it was pretty low speed crash and we hit only with front left headlight/quarter panel/wheel, but the FK was totaled. It could be repaired, but for insurance company it was not worth it, so they payed us 4000€ for the car and we still had the option to sell the wreck. one monday evening i was looking at used car prices, to find out how much we could get for it, when i stumbled upon silver Aerodeck VTi for 2800€. Price was a bit higher than i expected, but hey, it was only third aerodeck vti for sale in Slovakia for the past four years. I could not let that opportunity pass. Tuesday morning i called the seller and on friday evening i was driving home in my new deck with ear to ear smile on my face. Shortly after we sold the FK wreck for 900€. You lose some, you get some. I love my deck, but i still miss that UFO. As things stand today, i have to do a stage 0 maintenance and on top of that i already had brake hard lines replaced as the old ones cracked and leaked, which cost me 100€. Yesterday i snapped left drive shaft, i ordered both from J&R, 116€ delivered, they should arrive on wdnesday. Last week i changed oil, oil and air filters. Tried to change fuel filter, but i could not loosen it, so i let it be for time being. Thing that await me in near future are clutch, timing belt, rear muffler, summer tires and some minor stuff. About future upgrades i want to start with basic stuff, LED H4 bulbs, short throw shifter, shifter poly bushes, rear sway bar, higher performance brake pads and rotors, braided brake lines, maybe also clutch line, high performance smer tires and if i will have spare cash also some nicer alloys and leave OE alloys for winter. When all of this will be done i would consider coilovers, but if i get a good offer before that, i might as well change the order. Another thing i am considering is getting integra stainless cat back, which could i get for around 250 and tweak it to fit, but i am afraid it would require too much work and in the end would not be worth it. Considering replacement OE spec rear section costs around 130... If i forgot something i wanted to say, i will add it later. Thanks for reading and bearing with me.

Sad news today... After losing almost all stiffness in brake pedal and parking brake warning light coming on during driving i checked brake fluid level. Almost empty... Well thats weird, better go to garage nearby, lift the car and see whats the problem. All calipers and hoses without leakage. Thats not good, it means, that something else, more expensive and harder to replace is leaking... after a while we found rusty brake tube that runs to rear brakes under the car. The technician said right away, that he does not have enough experience doing brakes to take the job. Right now i am trying to find some place that is willing to do it for reasonable price. One place told me, that they can try, but the can not guarantee that they will be able to losen those lines and replace them. Since I saw the state of the undercarriage, i know it will be a bitch of a job to do... On another note, when i started this thread, i think i forgot to say, that i am also interested in H-brace from integra, but i was not able to find any info on that even after reading compatibility list and some other threads on various pages. Wish me luck with the brakes. I will post back as soon as i will have any more info. EDIT: the words i was looking for was "hard lines" i just could not remember the correct term before. Also, found some place that can fabricate new hard lines pretty cheap, about 6eur pre meter, but i have to bring them old lines as template.

We are talking 0.878 vs 0.717 gear ratio if i remember these numbers correctly so it means about 18% lower revs in the fifth gear. So far i think the rest of gears is fine for my driving, dont need any shorter 1-4, just longer 5th.

I will hae to ask around about that LPG conversion, few colleagues drive lpg cars, honda legend, land rover discovery 3 and 4, mercedes ML, and my boss bought dodge ram 5,7 hemi two days before i got my civic. It mainly depends on the guy/garage that installs it and tunes it, because these all drive fine, but my brothers skoda felicia is just weird, sometimes it accelerates just ok (for 50kw engine) and sometimes you have a feeling, that if you started pushing it yourself you could get up to speed quicker. I am not that worried about 2nd gear, since i am not really launching it, nor drag racing. Just occasional 2nd/3rd gear pull to pull up to traffic on hwy and 4th/3rd gear downshift when overtaking. I will contact him, when i will be closer to doing the swap,for now i have read some guides and watched videos of people doing that swap on ITGs.

Thanks for the link, i have seen Meister R coilovers, but that will have to wait for some time. I have to admit i like the comfort stock shocks and springs provide, especially on roads here in Slovakia. For now almost all of my budget will go into Stage 0, check everything, replace what needs to be replaced, put some cash aside for timing belt/tensioner, and save up a bit for lpg conversion. Even i think it is heresy to feed lpg to B18C4 engine. Unfortunately i drive about 2500-3000km a month, so it is the most logical thing to do. Another mod i forgot to mention before i am really considering is 5th gearset from LS or even GSr integra, since both of them have longer 5th gear, but shorter final drive. Again, driving a lot, mostly highway, 4,5k revs all the time is getting a bit annoying.

Hi, for a few days now, i am a new owner of 1999 aerodeck VTi. So far i am happy with how the car, but i am interested in doing some suspension/handling mods. I tried looking for MG ZS180 rear ARB, but they seem to be all gone, since i was not able to find any for sale. Because of this, i was wondering, if there are any other cars that has similar suspension to MC2. I know that some parts from EK/EG/DC2 could possibly fit, but wanted to know, which are the closest to decks. Also those mentioned before have many more aftermarket options, but only some ebay sellers mark their items as (fits: civic aerodeck) and even then i am not sure if these parts will fit. I saw some mentions that for example DC2 LCAs are almost identical to M series civics, and mainly was thinking, whether would also rear arb from DC2 fit with just a slight modifications. So what i am asking for is recommendation about what parts should i look for, that would require the least amount of modifications to fit my deck. I am a bit late to this game and see that there are only few members still active, but i will try to keep you posted with any progress to the car. Thanks in advance for any relevant info. Edit: i forgot to mention, that i am working with CNC mills and have also access to lathes, so i can make most needed spacers, brackets and stuff. So if i get some coilovers that have the highest point of adjustment too low for my liking, i will simply make aluminium plates, to rise it up a bit