hickster

Looks good, though if it fits the same as a Mugen brace (with the stays towards the windscreen) you may want to rethink your sticker orientation . With those brackets it should fit either way though I would have thought. As others have said there is no point fitting this with the Sustec brace because it does the same job only better, no point fitting it with the limited flex oem brace because this will lock out any movement anyway. I think you will have a much cleaner looking bay with just this one in it. Its also better looking than the Mugen ones I've seen which seem to be a scuzzy plated steel finish and only bolts onto the oem fixings not the shocks which seems to be missing the point slightly.

You could go for a Spoon one; a bargain at only £389.99 (that's even including VAT- wow!). You may also want the battery tie kit for £113, overall saving 35% on the stock items. http://www.spoonsports.co.uk/product.php?id=2827 Or you could just take a dump before you get in the car to get the same effect.

I know, would be the same kind of setup though with an extra metre of cabling? From memory it's a fairly tight space with the wheel still in isn't it? That near the tank you would probably want to mount the live disconnector switch near the driver seat rather than on the battery box incase you crash with a loaded boot

This back seat relocation looks tidy (about halfway down the page in the link) not sure where he got the box from though. You should be able to find a Honda sized one if you look around I would have thought. http://retrorides.proboards.com/index.c ... 485&page=2 Cable wise I dont think the extra length will have much effect, standard size copper ones should work fine.

Dammit you've beaten me to it! I've had a pair of these in the lockup for about a year, was going to fit them with winter tyres. Not had time to refurb them and the weather down here has been seriously mild so far. Do you get much vibration without spigot rings? I was thinking about machining up a set but probably at winter speeds it's not much of an issue. They look cooler unpainted than I thought they would (was thinking of gunmetal for mine) your ride height probably helps with that though!

That's interesting- I thought the optical computer fandango jobbies were the best tool for setting up cars with 4 wheel alignment. When I did a track rod end on the old civic I got a tyre place to realign it with the old on front wheel type of thing; seemed ok after that but this time I have also recently changed my trailing arm bushes so thought it might be better to get all 4 checked. Not used this place (http://www.dtstyres.co.uk) but they come recommended. Glad I'll be paying them to pee about with it then; if it's worse they can sort it out! I'll let you know how it goes. Still waiting for tyres and ebay muppets btw.

ZS should be fine. I think EK will not fit because the upper wishbone is different (brake stopper usually bolt on to these fixings) EG and DC should also be the same though I think the DC2 uses a different master cylinder.

Thats what I thought looking at which is what confused me- the wear is all on the inside quarter and not feathered like tracking wear. Looks like I've been ragging it around on about 5deg neg camber! The local tracking place uses a Hunter which I think can detect chassis misalignment as well so should find out what up with it.

Polish the brace, but paint the end brackets

Ok a bit of an update. Still can't find anything obviously wrong (apart from the tracking which is definitely out). Seem to have fixed the high speed wobble by refitting the wheel- some of the grease I had sprayed a little too liberally on the driveshaft nut was holding dirt on the hub face. Also seem to have fixed the rubbing noise by removing the steering column surround an having a good spray around with WD40. I think the wear has been made to look more camber related by my leaky nearside tyre (goes from 32 down to 20psi in about a week), the springs and mounts look ok. Rather predictably the upper arm, lower balljoints and track rod end ordered from ebay all turned up incorrect (yes I did order the right ones). Waiting for bits now before I can get it tracked (still want to change the upper arm and rod end as they look like they have seen better days even if not completely shot).

They will fit, I have seen people on other forums change to a harder spring rate at the front out of preference, iirc it was on a super flush setup- you should be alright though. Here's a link if you feel the need- http://www.rallydesign.co.uk/product_in ... ts_id=9340 (not sure if this is the right size/rate I just had it saved as 'TA Tecnix upgrade', can't remember where I got it from. I was quite pleased with the creamy finish on my wheels (like old school Honda wheels), unfortunately they look more white in daylight. I think if the finish colour was more white they would look a bit tipp-ex like when the sun comes out. Heres mine when first fitted, no laquer as I thought it make make it easier to repair any battle damage. I think they look better now they are a bit grubby- I like the well worn white wheels look, not managed to knock any paint off yet though. Good luck with fitting the coils!

Hmm hadn't thought of that, remember when they have gone on the golf it sounds like a bomb going off in the wheel arch. Might be bent seats or crumbling ends- would account for the camber wear. Need to have a look and get it on some level ground me thinks.

Mostly service bits- my aim is to keep it alive this year; Belts service Decent front brace 5.1 flush the brakes Front balljoints and track rods (already ordered) Possibly some more polybush action Noticed my rear shocks have Delphi stickers on them , change those to Bilstein/KYB Try and make the inside of the car drier than outside (mainly sunroof delete) Try and loose some of the rat look body panels Paint the rocker cover If I get through all that then might order some Eibach springs

So far I can't find anything to suggest this is anything other than a tracking or camber issue, not sure how not hit anything with the front end I can remember. Either the rear is out of track after the TAB change or I damaged a joint changing the driveshaft perhaps. Think the most likely candidate is the upper arm or joint (pas. has been replaced recently this one looks pretty old though). As it looks like I'll have to get the tracking sorted anyway I think I am going to replace the upper arm, track rod end and lower balljoints anyway in preparation for a polybush fit out later in the year.

Okay I'll admit it- I'm slightly stumped by this one. Travelling back down south from the Christmas visits the car gets a slight vibration through the steering at motorway speed. Stop at the services; wheel nuts all tight, no soft tyres, nothing obviously loose (it was pretty dark by this time). Make our way home on back roads seems ok vibrates when drivers front is loaded up. Check the drivers front in the daylight- Holy sh!!!t Completely scrubbed down the inside . Car has also developed a rubbing sound going out of full lock (wheel and tyre not actually rubbing). So- Don't seem to have lost any balances (not that it should cause this), balljoints seem ok- no vertical play in wheel, similarly bearing is silent with no play. Track rod end looks ok, my first thought looking at the wear was that it had gone out of track but no exposed thread or loose locknut. All the other tyres are fine so probably not the rack- but the noise sounds very rack/column like. My best guess is upper or lower wishbone bushes (been too wet to crawl under the car) unless anyone has any suggestions? I'm going to get the local garage to have a look when they open up again- I'd like to get it sorted before though if I can.

That is a VAG fitment. You will need to test fit them- sometimes they centre up fine on the studs with no modifying, sometimes they need some metal tape of similar (it's only 0.5mm of material to add to the side of the bore) to help loose vibration, sometimes the back of the alloy is nowhere near the hub and may need a custom spigot or chemical metal to make it hub centric.

Sunroof drains- there are two leaky rear ones as well as the two that go to the front wings; they all suck balls. Also check tailgate seal and rear light cluster seal. If your headlining is wet the front gutter seals (against the windscreen) also may be suspect.

195/50/r15's are about the cheapest tyres around and are ideal for the MB3 with a 576mm diameter (original 185/60/r14's are 578mm). Check out Camskill etc for deals .

I think from memory there is a hole on the inside that lets you pop the clip with the end of a screwdriver, been a while since I had them off though. Have a good look around the door I'm pretty sure you don't have to lever them from the outside.

In addition you should know that the centre bore is 56.1mm, your car is hub-centric so larger sizes (aftermarket alloys) will need spigot rings, smaller sizes (pilfered from early Mazda or Toyotas) you will need a machine shop to rebore them for you. Most Vauxhall and Rover are 56.1mm, VAG are 57mm (usually can be bodged). If you get lower than about ET38 on the offset the handling may tend to tramline a bit. I would recommend sticking to 195/50/r15 tyres if you want to keep any kid of torque from an MB3.

With the Koreisha badge? are you old enough? How come you have gone for a non dished wheel I thought you modified the seat to go way back? Looks good though, should be more practical than the suede one.

If you are going the other way you could keep your 4x100 hubs (though 114's have advantages as said). H-tune do a kit though you could make your own up cheaper from MG parts. http://h-tune.co.uk/index.php?route=pro ... uct_id=754 The MB6 has ET55 and 4x100 civics ET45 so I assume the hubs are in the region of 10mm fatter on the 6. 4x114 alloys are not hard to find many good JDM cars use this fitting.

It's winter- dirty filthy rally slags rule!

Think they're both standard thread, drivers side is anyway.

Soak it in wd40 overnight. Gentle sustained pressure with the breaker bar should do it (with the wheel on to lever against as you say). I used the Haynes method which involves removing the shock fork so give that bolt a soak as well, can't remember the exact process but there is bound to be a 'how to' somewhere on the net. Remember to put a tray under the gearbox to catch oil overspill