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snakey135

Civic5 Supporter
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Everything posted by snakey135

  1. Yeah it is hard sometimes to put a vision down in text in a way so others see it the same... But i appreciate the advice as it made me take my time and make sure i was cautious whilst doing it!
  2. Thanks fellas! I know alot advised against it but i was confident in my delicate welding capabilities so just went for it and as you said simon its such a relief!! Anyway a little updated stance shot, sits lovely now i think! Opinions??
  3. Well!..... I think i have good news lads! All went well! Shocks still feel decent, dropped front by 15mm so now front aint looking up to the sky! i feel like i finally have decent traction again... Much more responsive steering wise too! I'll get some bee stance shots tomorrow when its not smashing down with rain!
  4. Right lads.. I've made a decision!!! New techniques dont get realised without taking risks! Theres an obvious chance here that i could f*ck the fluid in the shocks but im going to do it and see what happens!!! If s*it happens i have my original front shocks to put on and ill have to source another set of MG ZS front shocks!! And your right tom, at some point i will be doing discs and pads all round and braided hoses at the same time so when that happens the collar wont be needed anyway!!
  5. Hehe thanks phill ... And congrats!! Well deserved, she's looking spot on mate!!
  6. To try and get accross what i was thinking of doing without confusing people (which im good at!) ive done a little image to explain! On the top shock the green lines are welds i would cut (hacksaw) to free off the fork collar On the bottom shock i show i can then move the collar and fork (indicated in red) up 10 or 15mm, and then two little spot welds where the blue stars are to hold the collar in place. The collar then lines up the fork then i can crank up the fork pinch bolt to hold the fork in place on the shock. Doing it this way am i still likely to boil up the fluid, as the only heat will be there for a second max, then i'll drop a little water on to instantly cool down?? I know i seem persistant with this idea but i think this way you can get it alot more accurate
  7. Would just use a bit of course emry cloth... Would only need to bring two little spots back to metal anyway if i were to do it that way
  8. Strange that the exhaust keeps sinking, vti-s rear lip will fill in the gap!! Interior trim is looking good, and i know what you mean about the vents... Takes time and patience! Lol
  9. Got a can of stone chip spray at work, once ive done my rear bumper, hopefully next week (fingers crossed), i'm going to stone chip front and attempt AC removal myself! Gotta just get on with it n stop just saying im going to do things lol!! The black light frames will look sweet!! Get rid of that chrome!!!
  10. Haha! Cheers for all the advice guys... I wasn't on about welding the fork in place... Just the little collar that sits above it with just a 1 second spot each side... As its not the collar which takes the weight, its just a positioner collar and the fork bolt holds the fork in place on the strut i believe? But obviously i dont want to be killing the strut as can lead to bad things!! But anyway im seeing my options of how to raise the fork a touch and see what i come up with! Thanks again for all the input and help!
  11. Cracking on well here mate! Just goes to show what can be done if you just crack on without putting things off!! Ive wanted to pull the front off to completely stone chip my front and remove AC for ages but keep thinking... Ah, another day! Haha Headlight surrounds underway... Anything special with these or going standard black?
  12. How everyone is concerned about this shock welding is worrying me! Lol... I might have a plan B to re-secure the collar without welding! I'll keep you guys posted!
  13. Cheers @noodels very helpful! With the welding i should get away with it as ill only spot it carefully, i wont steam a great fat slug all the way around as that'll deffo heat it up inside!! Lool Yeah @Chandler they do, so when i move the collar up i have to keep it in the same alignment to make sure the fork is the right way around! Its just a different way of doing it and if all goes well its another option for people!
  14. Thats good to know tom!... Im going to have a go at them tomorrow... Just undecided wether to drop 10mm or 15mm??? Hopefully he may be able to shed a little more light on this for me Krzys!
  15. The dials should look decent! Hopefully with the adjustments the parameters are all in the correct place
  16. It shouldn't do jay, when i do my actual shocks i'll only spot weld them bit by bit... Fingers crossed should be fine Ah tom these pics are really helping! ... I see how its been done that way now, but does the bottom of the shock have two notches for the pinch bolt? One in its original place and one higher up for the new fork position, as the fork has gone higher up? The shaft looks quite close to the bottom of the shock, does it knock if you hit a bit lump or pothole hard??
  17. Yeah but ive moved the shoulder / collar up so it goes further into the fork I ground the spot welds off and welded it higher up
  18. Hmm, i did think about doing it that way tom but i thought that with the pinch bolt in the same place, the fork will have to sit at the same point on the bottom of the shock (where the pinch bolt recess is)???? What im doing is the collar that the brake lines bolt to, im moving that up 15mm, then the fork will slide on further (making a new, higher, recess for the pinch bolt to sit in) in theiry making the shock 15mm shorter!! lol
  19. Right! Have decided to find out how to mod these front forks to get the front lower! With a little bit of experimentational fabrication i think i've sussed it! Not sure if its the same way as already used but it'll do fine! Lol
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