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Good news! :cool:

Went out to have a look at the wiring connector on the ABS unit. Thought I'd have a butchers through the good ole Haynes Book of bollocks to see if there's an easy way to get it disconnected. Discovered they don't have any info on it as they suggest it's not a DIY serviceable part, but then saw the section on ABS codes. Pretty much the same as we have in our guides, although there is a note for 97 onwards and Aerodecks.........The ABS computer may still hold old codes after the fault has been repaired! I always thought we just needed to pull the ECU fuse for a short time to clear any codes but apparently not! Manual advises to clear all codes, turn the ignition on/off (don't start car) 20 times or more.

 

So thought well, anything's worth a bash! connected her battery up, did the above 20 times........abs light off! Didn't get too excited s it's gone off before for a few mins, so started the engine a few times and it went off every time. Decided to take her for a test drive up the back road, drove a good 6 miles and light stayed off. Pulled over to turn back and turned the engine off to see if it was a fluke, Started her and abs light straight off! Tested the brakes on way back and ABS kicking in like it should. 

So, ABS fault finally fixed, just got the inner rear arch on pass side to buff down/treat and underseal and she's ready for the MOT. Dave is a happy bunny!ecstatic.gif1

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The saga continues!😬 So, went out to the garage and connected the battery back up to move DD over a bit. ABS light back on! WTF!!!! Did the reset with the ignition again, light off and working as normal. Seems to be that after so many key turns, the light is back on again. When it does come on, switch it off, start it again and it goes off either straight away or after a 2nd turn of key as normal and stays off.  Then stays off for quite a few starts then back on again.Totally wrecking my brain trying to suss it. Thought maybe ignition switch to blame but doubt it? No rhyme or reason for it.

 

Anyone got any ideas or had this before?

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Just been back out to check it again. Initially when I started her, light on. After a few starts, light off. When I got the light back on, tried to pull the codes again. Light just stays on, doesn't flash the codescry.gif1

Disconnected the bridging wire, started her 6 or 7 times, all goes off as it should. Gonna leave her a few hours then start her again, see if it goes off or stays on. Thinking you might be right, unit itself might be fooked, although when the lights off abs works like it should.

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Managed to get her to actually throw a code, now saying nearside rear sensor. Have checked it with a multimeter against the new one on the other side and the results are similar so not entirely convinced it's duff but will order a new one anyways. Hoping it's not the wiring as that looks like a biatch to get at!

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Weirdly was just watching Ed China's latest youtube video (workshop diaries) where he sent a fiesta abs unit to be remanufactured. 

Hope you get to the bottom of it mate. 

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New rear sensor ordered just in case. Yeah, hoping i don't have to go down that route as the abs unit is one of the most costly things to replace on our civics. 

Found out last night from a member on our Civic5 FB Group there is actually another way to reset the ABS light, and this one is straight from the Honda dealerships service manual for them! Printed it off so going to have a go today.😀

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So, went out armed with the instructions......now the bloody light goes off as normal so can't even get her to do the ABS reset procedure! She's being a git lol Thought I would let her sit for a while, as that's usually when it rears its head again so thought I'd crack on with the rust treatment on the pass side rear arch.

 

Had to remove the plastic inner panel that is supposed to protect the inner arch/fuel pipes (was a bitch to get the screws/bolts out). I've never had that panel off as never been a reason too. And that's where my heart sankcry.gif1. Loads of surface rust, so got busy with the wire brush/scraper etc to see how bad it was. There's a bit where the metal is really thin, and there's a wee bit where the scraper went through. Gutted! Don't think it's bad enough to fail the mot, as don't think that's structural. It's right up near where the fuel pipes come from the fuel flap. So looks like next year DD is finally going to have to have welding done :(. I'll get a price to get it done in the new year as got loads of other stuff that needs money spent on but want them to cut out as much of it as possible so it can't return. Looks like they might have to remove the Fuel pipes which looks like a sod of a job, but I'll remove the interior panels to keep costs down. 

 

Really got me down when I first saw it, but then thought well, she's 24 yrs old, if that's her only bad bit she's done bloody well! And it's not the end of the world, rust cut out and new metal in she'll be good as new. have rust treated it all and the rest of the inner rear arch, which was in decent nick. Will get the fresh underseal on tomorrow hopefully and will see if that dreaded ABS light starts its nonsense again after she's been sitting all night.

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Think at the minimum the Fuel pipes from the filler to the tank will need to come out, far too risky to weld with them there I think. The tank would probably be a wise removal though just for safety. Another job I don't fancy tackling so will be up to the garage who do the welding to take care of that lol. 

 

Hoping the rust treatment keeps it at bay for now. Was out today getting all the treated areas coated in red oxide ready for the underseal going on. Now its been treated and red oxide on, doesn't look half as bad! 

 

On the ABS front, the light is back to going off as normal, but have a feeling it's still not sorted. Deffo thinking wiring, but at which end! lol Going to remove the connector on the ABS unit and give it a good clean, make sure terminals are ok. Then will have a look at the rear again, see if I can get the abs sensor loom unhooked so I can look at it properly. The service manual does say though that the car needs driven at 30mph after repair to complete the fault cycle. 

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