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Thanks for the replies I got the problem sorted it was suspected rack. Grabbed a mgzs180 for £12 with paint still on the track rod ends. Pig to do but ohwell. Its alot nicer and quicker, also lighter recommend this swap highly!

Alos partial typo fail Great pics mate .. That system look epic !!

well here's a small upgrade that i got from Krys on here more updates to come when the car is actually clean and a little more presentable!!

Will be sorry to see this go jake. Hope that it goes for a good price and to a good home

Thanks for the offer @UnicyclingTom I got home tonight though and discovered a rubber seal, some nuts and bolts and a metal cage thing hiding under a bit of cardboard at the bottom of the box. Thank frig for Dave, as I'd have went to Honda and paid for a new one.

Would a flexi joint fill the gap?

Smashed two sumps when on 15's, so bought 18's to make it sit higher (didn't adjust coilies, kept it 'stanced yo'), mudflaps scraped on the floor on any cambered road or most straights, smashed my new front splitter to bits a day after getting it.. knocked a wishbone pin out on a speedbump.. but it looked good! Priorities because 18 year old with ego.

Reading fail

Slowly or teetering/beached I would say?

haha yeah i got that when i read it back as i didnt have £ signs New pictures.

Mate sorry .. I skimmed read and thought you meant power !

I can picture 16" Rota's with blue spokes on your MB2. Oh my..... *dribble*

what you mean grant? i was just saying the money i could get back to put towards the build =] full engine and box's tend to go for £550+ s9b's tend to sell for £150+ so i would stick my engine and ancillaries and wiring up for £350 - £400 depending on the market at the time

Do you people not have speed bumps or country lanes?! I almost tore my splash guard off driving around @Shafzzz's area at stock height!

Could work out quite cheap if it all goes well and you get decent money for the engine and box! Will you be doing the work yourself for the conversion and engine swap?

I've updated the first post with the new picture Maz, sells it better!

Awkward 4uckers that's why

He has to stick around! Top man is Jake!

That looks awesome dude! carbon H for the win

Looking ace maz.

LoL as you no you always find something to change upgrade with projects its never ending :-D Pictures to follow soon. I think its time for more Power :twisted:

Love the itr wheel mate. Looks top. Re brakes, unfortunate, honda really fecked up with the rear brakes on ours. They are all poor.

Excellent, that came quick! I would underseal the sh*t out of the fuel tank so it doesn't start rusting

Man I love this car. Just love how clean it is just by looking at the photos!

@feck_on_a_stick Post above lol lol lol bloody ipad lol lol lol

Right ok I take it there is not one in a bag in the tank ? When I got my tank it came with a new rubber taped in a bag on the tank . Right the one that fits the bolt in sender is a diff size than the twist fit coz the hole are dif sizes ,so if the uk mc,MB was all fitted with bolt in senders then the rubber will not fit ( I still never found out if honda used diff tanks in the uk .when I was looking for a sender they said there was loads of different ones and could not help arrrrrrrr dam honda just put on the car what ever they pull out the parts bin ) . Have you got the twist fit sender ? If not the may be one on that if so it should prob do the job . Or you could get in touch where you got the tank and ask if they can send you one .

Finally got my friend to give me a hand fitting the steering as I didn't have those star keys to remove the screws. Excuse the wheel it is slightly grubby as we done a couple of other things on the car too. Had that awful squeal from the rear brakes, every time I would touch the brakes there would be an almighty high pitched squeal. After looking at the rear pads, I could see they didn't have the anti squeal/vibration shims. Typically most pads usually come with these built in or some sort of coating. After removing the rear pads from the caliper, it was evident that they plastic coating had all deteriorated away. For a quick job, just whacked on some copper grease which sorted the squeal out for the time being. Plenty of meat on the pads so seemed a waste to put on new pads onto an old disc. These will probably get changed in the future as a set (pads and discs). Wheel goes well against the Skunk 2 black rep gearknob. Will give the wheel a good clean and refurb the stitching soon, probably change the gear gaitor too for a red stitch leather itr style one. Much more enjoyable to drive with this set up of gearknob and steering wheel.

All depends on what your satisfied with at the end of the day. If you want a h22 then h it is. The only thing is when you start putting different engines in it causes issues and the way the box mates up to the Engine I've read it makes the shafts sit at funny angles n kills them off n what not. You either do it cheap or you do it right. If I was looking to do the h2b build, I'd be looking at having 5k tucked away for it as youl end up wanting to Change bits along the way and spending £££ For example the clutch, brakes, exhaust manifold, inlet+ possibly manifold, then the engine will need a full service with possibly the cam Cover seals n few small bits doing. It ends up costing a fair whack. H2b kit Clutch Engine service parts S300 or ecu Remap and tuning Added expenses (drive shafts, etc) Upgrades (wire tuck, after market add ons)

So after months of waiting, I finally got my hands on a full VTiS kit in Sicilian Red. The skirt has a few scuffs, but nothing some touch up paint shouldn't fix. Already looking better. Other side done! The moment I tried on the VTiS front splitter, I just fell in love with how aggressive the front end of the MB6 looked. The front lip had the usual scuffs and chips, but it also had this cut out of it. The previous car it was on ran a cold air feed so the lip was cut around the funnel. I'm going to cover it with black tape and then just actually fix it later down the line. Really needs lows now. Ooooft. I do have a rear lip to go on, but one of my mudflaps is being a b****r and wont come off. I've soaked the offending screws in WD40, so hopefully that works.