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weetec

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Everything posted by weetec

  1. yep, pull it off and give it a blast of some carb cleaner...the red pcv valve that is... the idea is it vents the gasses/pressure of the pistons moving up and down and the inlet sucks then gases out.
  2. just got back from ploughing the car, on private roads of course still the same, confidence levels and grip due to LSD are great accelerating in to and through a bend,.... but once i have to de-celerate or change up a gear my foot has to stay on the pedal or front end kicks out quick. very noticable and scary.
  3. you will notice that smaller ratios dont necessarily get you round bends easier.... longer gears and a heavy foot power round the bend using the LSD.. where-as smaller gears need to be changed more frequently.. normal gearbox>>>>usually 2nd gear would get me round a bend on to the straight and then in to 3rd short ratio's>>>>> 2nd gear and partially 3rd gear to get round a bend... problem is stop accelerating half way round a bend to change up because of end of rev's.. this disengage's the LSD.. car meets pavement... next mod a LSD which works on deceleration
  4. you get race oil and standard oil, dip your finger in each and watch how fast it drips off the race oil. its actually bad as it drips off metal faster leaving unlubricated components metal to metal contact. thick oil leaves a thicker film of oil protecting the components when they meet. so dont worry about.. granny shift for a week on the 10/40...... core blimey i know how to bull5hi7 you know what i mean.
  5. castrol engine oil 10/40 wont kill anything for a couple of weeks..or even months depending what your driving is like. its consistency is thicker than gear oil so wont leave inner transmission gubbins un-lubricated.
  6. cheers, yep its a genuine DC2 98 spec .. not a yonaka special .
  7. the exhaust is a quiet as oem now well chuft. i had to modify my cat to suit the manifold as 2.5" is miles bigger. you just cant beat honda researched parts that are developed for power. look at the power of this manifold compared to others.. http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=3005484 then ask yourself why not. i have had a ebay 4-1 manifold with 2.5" collector, was not this good.. and the the cams and springs only at this point. leaving the valves alone. stock rev limit.
  8. is there any way to configurethe wiring or something to the rear-arm so it operates and stops at the bottom? i wouldnt like to remove it completely as it does come in use.
  9. hmmm... mine was the one with 2 plugs.. but hang fire.. there are 2 types of dizzys made with 2 plugs. one for the b16 and one for the b18. identical inside but alloy housings are different. speak to ignitioncarparts on 08448223575. dont go any way other than what you have. i had to mate the 2.5" manifold collector to the 2.25" B pipe.. all custom stuff. Ray, your a star. done me a huge favour i wont forget. im really impressed with the manifold. thanks
  10. had some similar posts before, might be collapsed baffles in the exhaust.
  11. there are many threads on the net posted about comparison of the oem 98 spec 4-1 versus toda, dc, tri-y. im really surprised at the torque from low revs . recommend definetly. my set up is as follows. 4-1 manifold 2.5" collector 2.25" B pipe. integra 96 spec stainless steel JDM backbox. this "hodge poj" exhaust mix is brilliantly quiet aswell as performing. soon to install itr cams and a re-map. then itll be more fun.
  12. OEM or aftermarket? Looks good! I'm glad you've said it's quieter! I remember my ears bleeding after DynoDaze its oem,
  13. when i bought my 1st MB6 i was told the clutch was new... approx 10k miles later started geting similar symptoms. removed gearbox and it was trashed. johnbanks are a very very cheap trader in our forum. knocking out clutches for approx £145 delivered.
  14. cheerzz manifold now on.. ITS AWESOME!!!!!
  15. Hi peeps, just some goodies to uodate, got my hands on a 4-1 Manifold and de-cat. had the teg backbox fitted. some pics. the box it self is huge but sooo quite.. NO MORE BBBBAAAAAAAAAA BAAAAAAAAAAA... anti-social at my age still needs tweaking and a rear pipe welding on. sits low but hey,, beats noise
  16. here is what i did.. the rubber seal around the boot where the boot shuts is compressed which should provide an airseal aswell as a water seal.. but as the rubber will eventually perish this causes water to run/trickle directly back in to the car. noticable where the boot catch is. usual wear n tear.... the fix is buy a new boot rubber or,to cut a slit around the bottom towards the outside about 5"long. this then allows the water directly out as opposed to trickle back in to the car when the boot is shut when raining..... get a compressor and inflate this rubber seal. youll the see where there rips and tears are. water makes its way down within the rubber tube and leaks inside.... a build up of dust is a dead giveaway sign of where the water runs within the panels.
  17. there are 2 types of seat mounting brackets. i cant remember but one set is bigger than the other. must of been a newer design thing. also you may need the middle seat buckle aswell. nowt wrong with the seats. i had the same issue. had to go back and get the seat brackets too.
  18. that is a kind of catch tank, basically as throttle is applied the throttle acts like a sucking hoover. all the pressure build up from the pistons in the bottom block is sucked through the that black box via a one way valve. just clean the pipe and PCV valve (positive crank ventilation) and the pipe. youll be right then. water doent run up hill however suck it up and it will. oil vapour build up over time
  19. and finally... drumroll.. tadaa!!! got 1
  20. iv had this horrible rasp/tingle/zing for some time from the centre section exhaust. today on the ramp cut open a window on this part and to my surprise found barely any packing in it then found this dent aswell as a crack in the internal perforated pipe. what a joke. so put a teg back box on it now. really quietened thing s down.. more pics to follow.
  21. makes me laugh when people say iv re-built an engine etc etc. unless its had serious internal components upgraded such as high comp pistons and cams the cost to value ratio is out ofthe window.... the gearbox is a very good mod to gain acceleration with what your doing to it versus remap airfilter, exhaust. etc. however you do have to persevere with the car off road and all that. but its worth it. not everyone can just go and splash out on these high priced components. its what i call dedication. trust me youll be impressed. iv taken on a civic from this forum, revs to 9.5krpm, cams etc..... bull3hit! left that car for dead. another lad from halifax boasted pistons and cams, all the pollava, blasted away.... bhp figures sound great but its down to acceleration.
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