kalvtec

Does anyone know if the headlight adj and side mirror adj supposed to illuminate when lights are on?

Hi dave Good info you got there but its sorted now last monday thank god. Sorry i was meant to update here but ive been work past 3 days so got chance now. Cant believe after all that messing around and money spent, i took it to my uncle (auto electrician) once again as he wanted another look at it. It turned out to be just a fuse in the relay behind the drivers side coin pocket. This sorted out both the issues of heater blower not working and overheating at idle, this was due to fan not kicking in at idle, everythings working now. To answer your question, yes i spent ages on more than one instance trying to bleed the system and must have wasted over 2 litres of genuine honda coolant in the process lol ouch! But thanks for all the help here i really appreciate it...

Just to update I havent done much about this due to work but driving the car daily to work everything seems normal and no symptoms of overheating and im not losing any coolant but i havent checked again what it will do if i let it idle for long enough not that i want to anyway i hate seeing that... As for the heater, i fitted the new ceramic mg rover resistor today and it seems my uncle was right......still no heaters damn it!

Hi As above my uncle checked the motor and said its fine.. Ive done some reading and wish i did come across the bleeding info beforehand, will try this front end up soon. I have a question im wondering about, like i said in my first post that i serviced the car earlier this year with fresh coolant and all was good i had the fan kick in in half hour twice and must have expelled the air otherwise i would have had this issue back then aswell What I want to know is about this air lock thing, does this only happen when bleeding the car after coolant change or can air lock in the system happen anyway out of no where?

Thought id give an update here. Not as simple as i was hoping with these issues, really frustrating as i have work now for next 3 days so cant do much with taking it to the garage. Just hoping carry on driving doesnt do more damage. With the heater issue, i ordered the new resistor and should have it by weds. However, my uncle who is auto electrician has checked few things like the fuse and heater motor and even says my resistor is still good also which im baffled by. He said he needs to investigate further into the relay as the problem lies somewhere along the line. With the over heating again no luck yet. Ive changed the thermostat and found the new one to have the rubber seal a bit too small to fit into the housing so i used the old one as it still looked good to me. It all went well for me first time doing this job but i had a nightmare with bleeding the cooling system after refilling the coolant i had drained before removing the thermostat. It seems to me that not only is it having trouble expelling air if any, the fan aint kicking in either. Made a bit of a mess around the radiator with the coolant being wasted and used quite a bit of the spare honda coolant i had saved hoping not to run out of it as i didnt fancy buying more. Duh... Its still overheats if left on idle for a certain time, took to a mechanic who was busy but had a quick look and couldnt tell me much but pointed a number of culprits like could be water pump, fan switch, the radiator or air pockets blah blah. The cambelt is overdue tho i think and although its been done twice before, i doubt the waterpump has been touched yet its now on 125k.... I hate how i feel with a passion, my old mg zs did this but worse after 2 years of headgasket change and one of the reasons why i gave up on it...but this is a honda i aint giving up no matter what, if it goes pop, let it grrrr! Good excuse for a engine swap...

Kink you are a star Quick responses in times like this

Hi Thank you so much kink.... Oil and water has always been fine and still is, i check them regularly. I will double check today if fan still comes on, i gave it a major service earlier this year inc new coolant and everything was fine although i didnt change the thermostat. The fuse in the engine looks fine visually but i didnt have tester to check it. I have pulled out the heater resister and the coils on one side was absolutely toasted so for now i blame that and have ordered a new ceramic one like i did previously (mg rover one). Will update how it goes... Edit* Any idea if i can get the right thermostat from honda or will autoparts one be ok?

I dont know if these 2 are related but today went out and heater didnt even come on at any speeds so i thought yeh heater resister it must be....ive replaced one in previous civic and its easy i know, although that was cos it didnt work on speeds 1 & 2 more commonly but this time its gone completely. Whats more worrying to me now is and im hoping its nothing major, is that later that day i went in the car wash and noticed the temp needle very slowly creeps up past the normal half way mark.... at first i really thought my eyes are playing with me but later i tried again by letting it idle and it did the same thing again. I checked the lower and upper hoses and they were both hot so not sure wat this is but please tell me this is just a bad thermostat?? Or is the failed heater causing this... Any help appreciated want to sort this soon my cars very well looked aftered all its life so bit worried. Thanks

Hi Would appreciate any help as this question is a bit specific i couldnt find anything in search so apologies... To anyone who has bought (or can shed any light into this) foglights for their NON foglight mb, did u get the wiring from the seller to connect them up or can a auto electrician sort this out without the original wiring? Im asking since im after some fogs but one seller doesnt want to bother with pulling the wiring out so im wondering what to do about it. I actually want the fogs for the brackets only so i can search for some better condition accord ctdi ones as mb ones are usually smashed. Any help appreciated so i can decide on getting these off the guy he wants 40 posted and they look smashed but he is local so prob can get cheaper collected

Glad to help

Hi I did this stuff to my mb2 a year ago. Front and rear brakes overhaul with new disc shields front and rear. All parts were mg zs fitment. I used rimmerbros for disc shields all around. Rear part numbers. SMD000080 SMD000090 just checked still showing in stock around 25 each. Hope this helps

Yeh i guess

I popped in today for a small chat and they booked me in for tuesday to look at the handbrake issue ive got plus i requested an inspection on any potential rust underneath. They took a deposit off me, first time ive come across that lol not saying its wrong i just didnt expect that. I guess its to deter people from booking in then not turning up is that right? Anyway the chat about the D16 swap confused me even more, rich certainly knows what he's talking about....but where LF honda guy quoted me 1500 for a D16 turbo conversion, dynodaze reckon the same price for a standard D16 in and out swap... Think i need more time to decide on this... Oh and yeh i did tell them they were recomended to me on this forum...

Brilliant thanks for that

Can anyone tell me where i can go for a simple d16 swap as an upgrade to my gutless 1.4 and how much this simple swap would cost? I know the d16 as standard isnt anything magical either but im not looking for mega bhp at the moment just want to improve the overall drive and bit more grunt... but do have a plan to d16 turbo when ever possible with circumtances. Ive already contacted LF honda and although he replied a few times regarding d16 turbo and my budget, i didnt get the simple answer i want as above first sentence...either he is busy or not interested.. Im in west midlands dont mind travelling a bit and would like a drive in drive out service for a tidy swap with a healthy engine.. Sorry if this is boring but i appreciate any input...

Hi Its the MG ZS 2001-2005 same shape/design as our civics

How did this go mate any update?

Hi mate Get some mg zs 16" hairpin wheels they look awesome on civics... Not expensive either can be had for 100 or less.. Ive got them on my mb2 had them powdercoated gunmetal... Heres a pic for inspiration.

Anyone with a vti s hatch can show a pic or explain the proper fitting of the rear lip please... Ive fitted mine but just used the 4 screws that go on each end and im going to use black cable ties to go underneath holes cos i dont have the bolts or the plastic clips.... 2 things im not sure about is there some metal brackets that go in between the bumper and the lip where it meets the arches that the screws go through. Are these brackets supposed to be clipped in over the screw holes on the lip or the bumper it self? Also i noticed the top of the lip where it touches the bumper has slight gap so not a tight fit...is there supposed to be some 3m double sided strip to applied across the lip on the inside? I do have some 3m but ive read its supposed to be applied in warm weather or it wont bond... Sorry for long post but rather than put another thread up i might aswell ask here if anyone has any ideas if mg zs sideskirts can be fitted without those plastic clips that are fitted on the inside? Sadly i had mine painted then realized that all plastic clips and holders are non present as when i broke my zs earlier this year i unkowingly pulled the skirts incorrectly causing them to rip off.. Any help appreciated

I watched a DC2 vid on youtube and thought i check up the reg plate on dvla MOT/TAX checker to see if its still on the road......to find this amusing advisory lol. Couldnt believe it at first and wondered if that was even allowed to come up there made me chuckle a bit too haha...

Thanks for mentioning dynodaze kink i feel i can make use of a decent garage like this... Ive just had my old mg zs spoiler and side skirts sprayed to go on my mb2 i fitted my spoiler looks fantastic but ive hestitated to fit on the side skirts after pulling off drivers side standard skirt and finding dirt and crap on sills and then what i feel could be potential rust hidden behind the new skirts..... Ive decided to get the sills inspected/repaired before i go forward with fitting zs skirts and dynodaze sounds like the place to go to... Thanks

195 55 15s.... although if u go for 195 50 15s their quite a bit cheaper but u will see tiny bit more arch gap but since u are lowered it shouldnt matter.. I assume u stay away from budget tyres...there are some very good mid range tyres without breaking the bank that have very good wet grip but still good in dry... My choices would be: Uniroyal rainsport 3 (excellent wet tyres u will be amazed...talking from experience) Avon zv7 Nexen n blue hd plus (have these on my mb2 on 16s was surprsingly cheap for such a good tyre in 16s size) There is obviously more choices but its upto u... Hth

No dirty diesel for me sadly My d14 mb cost me £55 to go norwich for my leathers Better off if he posts item thats if he has one