marko

this is awful! Rip nick top guy

Nice price, can't wait to see you turbo this document it well with lots of photos

I know it an old post I replying to but in regards to your pistons sleeves I have no idea how much sleeves are but if you plan to turbo it I would look into vitara pistons and eagle rods I've heard it's the cheapest way to forge a d series ready for a turbo, dseries.org will have all the info you could ever want on fitting a chu chu to your car

if you want satin wheels and you want to lacquer them then you will need a satin lacquer http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/390815173226?limghlpsr=true&hlpv=2&ops=true&viphx=1&hlpht=true&lpid=108&device=c&adtype=pla&crdt=0&ff3=1&ff11=ICEP3.0.0&ff12=67&ff13=80&ff14=108&ff19=0 probs find it cheaper somewhere that way merely for reference

hi im looking to get one of these trip computers for my mb6 did you have any difficulties fitting it? was there anything you would have done differently now having the knowledge of fitting one?

new abs sensors are upwards of £120 each to but could buy 3 second hand and only get a good one on the fourth and youve still not spent what you would have on a new one and on somthing like abs tbh i would rather do without abs this is the first car i have owned with abs and tbh i can do a better job of stopping the car in poor conditions myself

did you check the abs ring for dirt? cracks?

i dont think it would fit in your van anyway tbh, my mate wanted a caddy with a vr6 or a 1.8 turbo in it but on research one of them was a bitch to fit i think it was the vr6 not sure though :S

ive noticed the needle on the dash to be an estimate as if you put your footdown everywhere it drops fast but if you tickle the throttle everywhere after a good thrashing you magically have more fuel after 10 mins sensible driving lol

I like cherries and beef stew... Winner!!

Hmmm RON rating is simply how much compression the liquid can take before it combusts the higher the rating the less likely pre Combustion will take place ie. misfire, knocking Your power curves will be smother and more stable as the fuel is combusting with the spark when it should as opposed to slightly before or worse after. As for super market fuels your typically getting the same stuff you be getting from the 95ron pumps with added ethanol to bring the Ron up to 99 I'm sure this is mixed in the fly as you pump your fuel which is why when tesco morrisons run out of fuel they have no fuel Someone correct me if I'm wrong here

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-MK3-Golf-2-8-VR6-OBD1-AAA-Engine-/281331647662?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item4180ac44ae £170 buy it now yes yes yes yes!!

nice man, glad you got to scratch that itch, car looks nice and clean can only imagine it will look much different in a month with the speed you was getting stuff done on your MB6

probs peel the lacquer off when you remove it, only takes a stone chip to get it started but you might get lucky 50/50

pops a little mine pops like mad all the time just letting of the gas getts you a few nice pops as it winds down hahaha

Also always match your revs always always always! Like even when you go to the shops, This will give you a much better feel for how much you need to hit the gas

Best way to practise this is coming up to lights junctions then man removes the steering lets you just concentrate on getting your foot work right

sorry wasn't implying you didn't know how, my mate does it totally different from me you'll find your method soon enough maybe need to watch some one doing it in person for timing lol took me a while to get used to not applying too much pressure to the brake when revving

Example 1 Example 2 haha with engine noise

i feel some vids coming on haha

scary stuff dropping into first heel toe style lol i drive heel toe everywhere even potering at 30-40, droped into second doing 60 the other day man the grip you get on corners from the front end at high revs is awesome, didnt notice how long this thread was lol, just to add i am a size 7 and a half and as most of you im very proud of the half, and i have no problem with heel toe, i dont even use my heel its more like the side of my foot i jst sorta roll it to the gas pedal if that makes sense been doing it that long now that its like second nature to me barley use my brakes unless i have to stop or if the police are behind me been pulled before for having no brake lights hahah copper couldnt understand how i slowed from 40 to 15 in a short distance without the brake but sure enough they lit up when i preesed the pedal haha face was a picture

outward rolled lip for the win

so i take it its code 11? new sensor i guess? lol

http://civic5.com/forum/index.php?/topic/21-diagnosing-abs-probs/ there it is for reference the pics didnt work the first time i loaded it up but second time 3 of the 4 pics worked so just assuming it was some error loading the page. also are these the right codes? i cant find them on here for the life of me lol 98+ CODES 11 - wheel senor (open/short to body ground/short to power) FR 13 - wheel senor (open/short to body ground/short to power) FL 15 - wheel senor (open/short to body ground/short to power) RR 17 - wheel senor (open/short to body ground/short to power) RL 12 - wheel senor (electrical noise/intermittent interuption) FR 14 - wheel senor (electrical noise/intermittent interuption) FL 16 - wheel senor (electrical noise/intermittent interuption) RR 18 - wheel senor (electrical noise/intermittent interuption) RL 21 - pulser FR 22 - pulser FL 23 - pulser RR 24 - pulser RL 31 - solenoid (short to body ground/short to wire) FR-IN 32 - solenoid (short to body ground/short to wire) FR-OUT 33 - solenoid (short to body ground/short to wire) FL-IN 34 - solenoid (short to body ground/short to wire) FL-OUT 35 - solenoid (short to body ground/short to wire) RR-IN 36 - solenoid (short to body ground/short to wire) RR-OUT 37 - solenoid (short to body ground/short to wire) RL-IN 38 - solenoid (short to body ground/short to wire) RL-OUT 41 - wheel lock FR 42 - wheel lock FL 43 - wheel lock RR 44 - wheel lock RL 51 - motor lock 52 - motor stuck OFF 53 - motor stuck ON 54 - fail-safe relay 61 - ignition voltage 62 - ignition voltage 71 - different diameter tire 81 - central processing unti (CPU)

hmm not as simple as i was hoping then i thought i would be able to replace the sensors with resitors and reroute the power for the light to the srs light that way itll come on and go off with the ignition and still pass mot ;D