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Dexter

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Everything posted by Dexter

  1. Dexter
    Exhaust leak fixed, cost me only 40€ (£30). Now waiting for the brake light switch to arrive.
  2. Dexter
    500km they said. But can't even do that, because i failed the MOT . Because: 1. Emissions were too high, which i kind of was prepared for since the exhaust note has been a bit louder than usual. Luckily i live 50m from one of Finland's best value for money-exhaust repair garages so that'll be easy to fix. 2. Brake lights are on all the time. I'll start with changing the switch, hope it helps. 3. This one really got me confused: 2 shocks are supposedly broken. Whaaat? They gave these kind of measurements, i wonder if it's the same way in England: Front left/right 75/9, rear left/right 0/75 which means that my front right and rear left shocks are broken. Now i'm not ready to swallow this one because the car feels the same as when i installed the H&R coil kit 20,000km before. I reckon i would notice 2 broken shocks???? Don't want to take it to the garage either since i just got the new clutch installed so i'll have to investigate. But on the good side, my Exedy stage 1 kit felt really good driving home. Not too hard at all, and i like the precise feel. Just did a short spin on my mom's 1.4 deck, and what a sponge that has! I tried not to but still was revving the engine almost every time shifting gears!
  3. Dexter
    I failed my MOT a few days ago for a couple of reasons, one of which was that my brake lights are on all the time. Hadn't noticed it before, strange. Any ideas? My guess is a faulty brake light switch so maybe i'll start with replacing that but other suggestions are welcome. The switch is somewhere above the brake pedal, right? Right before the MOT i drove around the block for almost 15 minutes doing pretty hard braking to remove the rust that had covered my rear discs because the car had sat practically immobile for 2 months, so maybe that triggered the problem?
  4. Dexter
    No yet, need to wear in the new clutch first. And do some more work to pass the MOT.
  5. Dexter
    No yet, need to wear in the new clutch first. And do some more work to pass the MOT.
  6. Dexter
    Nice . Pretty rare to see someone upgrade their intake mani on a m-civic, really interested to hear the results. Especially when the cams go in. This is something i've also considered doing in the future.
  7. Dexter
    ...and picked up the car today from the garage and weighed the old MC2/MB6 flywheel at 7,7kg.
  8. Dexter
    Thumbs up for Knight as well, that one was close. You had my imaginary second vote .
  9. Dexter
    Easy choice: Kai_G. Used to drool over the stunning photos long before i ever joined Civic5 or got my own deck.
  10. Dexter
    Put my DC2 flywheel on the scale this morning: 6,99kg.
  11. Dexter
    Bought the flywheel and placed an order for an Exedy Stage 1 kit. Should have my deck ready in the beginning of next week. It's been almost 2 months since i drove it the last time, can't wait to take it for a proper spin!
  12. Dexter
    I'm getting the clutch replaced as well so what better time to consider changing the flywheel .
  13. Dexter
    Hi, I have a Tegiwa 4-2-1 mani which is going in as soon as i can gather the rest of the exhaust parts. Also at the moment i'm replacing my clutch and found a ITR flywheel for cheap and i'm thinking about putting that in. But is there any point in it? Because i started thinking: ITR flywheel = more high end horsepower 4-2-1 mani = more low-midrange horsepower Will i just be negating each mod's good effects, or maybe could i get a bit of the best of both worlds with these? I tend to get emotional when planning upgrades and sometimes just want it all! And lose track about what's sensible or not...
  14. Dexter
    Probably some random geezer on his way home from a bar... there are 5 within 200 meters and almost all close at the same time each night so there usually quite a lot of action. Haven't seen cars vandalised before, though. Found me a ITR flywheel for 50€ but haven't bought it yet. Also still undecided about the clutch... either Honda OEM or Exedy Stage 1. Stage 1 a lot more expensive, but still i'm thinking about the extra abuse it can handle so i'm starting to lean towards that direction. Would be nice for quick launches i reckon!
  15. Dexter
    You were right, Rich. Got the car towed to a mechanic last week and after investigating they told me i need a new clutch kit. Now i'm just wishing that i'd live in England since the cost estimate he gave me was waaaay higher than what you'd charge! I'm tempted to get a upgrade since now it's getting replaced anyway. Looking for something just a bit uprated, any suggestions? Have browsed through many topics here but haven't made up my mind yet. Also thinking about throwing in a itr flywheel as well.
  16. Dexter
    Since my last post 3 months ago the deck started to have some minor clutch/gear problems which escalated to the point that she's been sitting in the sun immobile for 6 weeks now. More of that over here http://www.civic5.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=52&t=9561&p=110855#p110855 in a different topic. Well actually i got her towed to a shop last week and after investigating they found out that i need a complete new clutch kit. Since it's getting replaced i might as well go for a upgrade... any ideas? Not looking to make big bhp anytime in the future (laws over here, u know... ), just some small mods and some sporty road / occasional track day use. And hey i guess a itr flywheel would add a nice touch as well! I better go check ebay now... unless someone has one for sale?
  17. Dexter
    Very nice, proper job on the deck! And i'm gonna be late to work because of reading through the whole thread !
  18. Dexter
    Thanks, done. Gave it a few extra pumps each time with the screw open to speed up the process. Used a full 0,5 litre bottle so should be proper clean now! After that, careful bleeding but still no help . When i turn on the engine with a gear in, the car tries to go forward as if started without the clutch depressed. When started at neutral, no gear engagement no matter what . Without engine on stick moves ok through all gears. Time for a new clutch pack..? Car's seen 114,000 miles.
  19. Dexter
    Thanks, done. Gave it a few extra pumps each time with the screw open to speed up the process. Used a full 0,5 litre bottle so should be proper clean now! After that, careful bleeding but still no help . When i turn on the engine with a gear in, the car tries to go forward as if started without the clutch depressed. When started at neutral, no gear engagement no matter what . Without engine on stick moves ok through all gears. Time for a new clutch pack..? Car's seen 114,000 miles.
  20. Dexter
    Ok bought some DOT 4 to be on the safe side. Still need tips on what's the easiest way to flush the clutch?
  21. Dexter
    Thanks. Any idea how much fluid i need? I've got DOT 5.1 brake fluid, can i use the same for clutch? And what's the best way to flush it, any tips or do i just use the basic bleeding technique?
  22. Dexter
    Replaced the gearbox oil, didn't help the shifting problem with high revs. Bled the clutch, car worked fine for about 30km and then the same problems started again. Decided it was drivable anyway, and took a 800km roundtrip up north to go snowboarding for easter. Most of the trip went fine, but sometimes when changing gears, at totally random intervals, was almost impossible to get 3rd and 5th gear to go in. Eventually got them in, though. Last week started the car and no gears would go in. Killed engine, checked clutch fluid (was ok), and started again, and then gearbox worked normal (with previous problems though) and was drivable. A couple of days ago started the car again, but gears wouldn't engage no matter what. Without engine on all the gears move smoothly through the gearbox. Sounds like a clutch problem to me? So i'm going to give it another bleed but perhaps need a new clutch kit, what do you reckon? One more thing about bleeding the clutch: when i did it, the fluid that came out was very dirty, like mud water. Since my Haynes manual doesn't tell me that i ever have to replace the fluid i thought it's okay, but later when thinking about it, mixing dirty brown muddish brake fluid with brand new clear fluid doesn't sound pretty smart. Perhaps a complete flush is in order?
  23. Dexter
    Okay thanks, guys. I'll go get some oil and a bleeding kit and get started.
  24. Dexter
    Okay i've checked out over 10 different topics and couldn't find anyone with the same problem so before investing in a new clutch... First of all since last summer, it's been hard engaging gears on high revs. No problem on low revs, only when ripping it. Lately it's been getting a bit harder, and disturbingly hard after i fitted a short shifter last week. This happened yesterday: i started the car, gear was in 1st and clutch and brake was completely depressed. The car took a small jolt forward, exactly in the same way as if you start the car without pressing the clutch. This happened again later once. Also, when trying to shift to reverse while parked, shifted to neutral but couldn't engage any gears. The shifter wouldn't go in far enough. Only after a while of gas and clutch and wiggling the stick around could get it to engage. This happened again later, and also at a stop light when trying to shift from 2nd to 1st after slowing down. Also...! A couple of times, when slowing down, right before speed drops to zero, i get this slight judder, very similar to what i described when starting the car without the clutch pressed. No problems getting gears in once at speed. So what's up with my clutch? What about the hard gear engagement at high revs? Anyone had similar issues??? Edit: Car in question is MC2.
  25. Dexter
    Short shifter and camber kit installed. The new stick is only a few cm shorter than the original but makes a huge difference alongside the new bushes. Travel is a lot shorter and the gears click in very precisely. Only problem is it didn't solve a problem i've had since last summer: the higher the revs, the more difficult it is to engage gears. Was told new bushes would solve it but nope... well otherwise the box works fine so i'm not worried at the moment. The camber kit went in without problems. Wheels are almost straight now, get a bit of rub sometimes hitting small bumps but nothing serious. And atleast i finally have the option of adjustment... . Next up is MOT, let's see what they say.
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