Dexter

Some new photos: The last one is sized 1366 x 768 as a laptop wallpaper. I tried to photoshop the licenseplate away but my skills didn't quite make it, so if anyone's up for taking a shot at it, be my guest. But in the meantime, feel free to use it. Hope you enjoyed the photos.

Good choice, one of the best looking accord models ever made. And cars run on petrol, diesel is for tractors!

Good job!

You're not sounding big headed, you're just... right. Can't say i'm feeling the cup holders but you're definitely going your own way, props to that.

I'm sorry but i don't, i looked it up from wiki but that's just too much theory instead of practice for me. From what i've noticed observing other cars at the track, almost all of them are very low (or just low, in my book ), especially the plateless honda's and beemers people build as cheap track cars. My logic says low = less roll, the only reason i raise my car for track is because my coils lack damping adjustment. But you seem to know what you're talking about, what kind of setup you use for trackdays?

I think it's still pretty high! But like i said i raise it a bit for the track, and the camber/toe is set for the current height so for now it'll do. But you're probably right!

Thanks, that might be worth a try. And about that Pagani ring lap, hmm now that's something to aim for .

Before and after, much better... . This is the third one i've replaced in four years, pretty sure the last one will crack open sooner or later. Also replaced the fan switch but to no effect. Maybe my radiator is just completely broken? To sum it up i've changed the thermo twice, the ect sensor, the fan switch and temp gauge sender unit and still my fan won't go on until high really high temp and when it does, it won't keep the engine temp down enough for full vtec driving. I tried to bleed the cooling system but couldn't. I start the engine with the rad cap open, the fluid starts to overflow a bit as the motor will warm up to normal temperature. At that point the fan should start and the thermo should open and the coolant level inside the radiator should drop, but none of these happens. After this i've lost some coolant, and also lost some coolant while changing the fan switch. So common sense says i should add coolant, but the level in the reservoir doesn't drop even after days of driving and the rad is full. So... ??: ??? Anyway all of this didn't stop me from going to the track again! I got an alignment done, more of that in a different topic http://civic5.com/forum/index.php?/topic/7281-camber-setup-for-track-days/ and with the new lot more aggressive setup manage to improve my laptime from 1,44:84 to 1,40:95! Top speed went from 150km/h to 160km/h. Have to say i'm very satisfied with the results. Some gopro footage: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NY7qKdVAFSY If you haven't tracked your M yet, go do it! Simply put it's one of the best things a man can do with pants on.

For track it's pretty low, almost as much as the H&R coils will go. Here's a pic with my street setup, for track i raise the front 10mm to get it stiffer since there's no damping adjustment.

Thanks, yes i reckon 4 secs is quite allright . I only drive about 1 tank of gas per month + the occasional track day so i think it's not too bad for the miles i accumulate.

x 2

Okay i got the alignment done a few days ago and this is what i got: Front camber -2,36 / -2,36 Front caster 1,30 / 1,48 Front Toe-in -0,06 / - 0,06 Rear camber -2,48 / -2,36 Rear toe-in 0.00 / -0,03 I would've gone for less rear camber but the car sits so low it wasn't adjustable any more, so i guess I'll need a rear camber kit in the future. Otherwise i'm very satisfied with the results. I visited the track afterwards and my lap time improved from 1:44,84 to 1:40,95! And that's all just by adjusting camber and toe. It goes like a train now. Thanks to Zuissi for his insight on this. The mechanic did warn me about excessive tire wear with such an aggressive camber setup, but i insisted, because race car .

You're not the only one... who can't wait that is!

Thanks, noodels. I think the whiteline sports is closest to the settings i'm looking for. Here's the standard specs for mb6/mc2 (taken from Haynes): Front: Camber angle: -0,007' to 1 Castor: 1,10' to 1 Toe-in: 0.0 to 2.0 mm Rear: Camber: -0,50' to 0,45' Toe-in: 2.3 to 2.0 mm

I'm taking my car in for an alignment. Any suggestions how much camber would be optimal for track days? It's a 1.8 deck, sitting pretty low on H&R coils and has a Blox camber kit in the front. A bit of negative is in order but how much?

x 2!

That's what i call stanced.

Clever move, now comparing the photos the old ones look a bit like cat's eyes in the dark. Lot better now.

Problem solved, found this under chassis/suspensions: http://civic5.com/fo...ult-codes/?p=66.

I replaced my clutch a year ago and installed also a DC2 flywheel which i got for cheap. It's only 10% lighter than the OEM MC2 (7kg/7,7kg), which is still an improvement ofcourse but in retrospect i wish i would've gone for a proper lightweight aftermarket one, Fidanza for example i've heard good stuff about. But if you can find a DC2 flywheel for cheap, like from harVTEC :wink: , get atleast that.

The ABS light on my MC2 is on so I need to obtain some trouble codes. My service manual says i need a "special ABS connector harness, available from Honda dealers, to plug into the 5-pin data link connector to retrieve the DTC's". Now my question is: do i really need to go to Honda for the bit, or is there a DIY solution to this?

I like it!

Cheers, Emil!

Thanks! We'll wait and see how it develops and be ready to install a new motor.

Concerning a 1.4 aerodeck: windshield wipers not working anymore on fastest setting. Otherwise work normally. Any ideas?