AJCivic

Looks great Dave, looks like you might have been only a few minutes away from me

Just an update on this. Touch wood - Problem seems to be over for now. Cleaned up the dizzy cap & rotor arm contacts, have replacement ones on order and also cleaned up the ignition switch. Had problems with that a year ago being gunked up and recently it was needing the key turning slightly more than 2nd position to get the lights/dash to come on, and had no issues since then. I will try and replace that if possible, the contacts inside look worn. But a part of me still thinks it could have been the fuel seeing as it started almost as soon as I used E10, and now it's just diluted/run through? Maybe I'll never know, but won't be using E10 again anytime soon. I also don't think a problem with the ignition switch would be affected by giving it gas when trying to start?

Yep both have been done earlier this year I believe it was, usually always get fuel filter done with oil, filters and plugs etc. Spoke to my mechanic yesterday to arrange a time to look at it, first thing he said? Asking which fuel I'd put in it! No secret that people are struggling with E10. Somebody at work also suggested distributor cap, so I took a look at that, was quite corroded inside possibly not helped by one of the 3 bolts snapping at some point so was presumably leaving a slight gap. Unplugged battery and gave it a clean, car fired straight up the first two times after that, tried again later on and back to not starting again, so still none the wiser until I can get everything else looked at.

Unfortunately still getting the same issue and even worse now, despite starting fine this morning. Car drives fine once started but starting just isn't happening! Not sure what it could be now, had the immobiliser light flash a couple times too when taking key out and back in again which was an issue I had a few months ago, doubt it is connected but can't rule it out. Looks like it'll have to go in to be looked at, maybe it wasn't the fuel after all but a big coincidence this only started after putting the E10 in!

Yeah that's the absolute last time I'll be using it in mine, just had a right job getting it started once again, 4 or 5 attempts and had to dip right down on the throttle, not just tickle it, which obviously isn't good long term either. On my way to brim it with E5 and hope that sorts it out with no lasting damage!

Posting here as it's the most recent E10 fuel discussion, but has anybody else been using it through this really hot weather? Last week I put in just under half a tank of E10, I usually run it on E5 or a mixture of them both, and currently since the really hot days we've had, I'm counted 6 times I've started the car and it has instantly cut out! Yesterday it took 3 times to start after work and only then because I held down the accelerator. Definitely proves to me 100% that this fuel can cause problems or evaporate from where it should be faster than E5. Was getting tired of discussing it with people and them saying 'Oh well time for a newer car if you can't even fuel it'

Few months ago I noticed a difference straight away after getting E10 a couple of times. When trying to start the car it would really struggle and take longer to fire up. Sometimes this happens slightly when I'm on less than 1/4 tank of fuel (probably just old fuel pump but you get used to it) and this went on for a week or two, but it was also around the start of winter with weather getting cold, so I couldn't be sure. Also felt sluggish. Ever since then I've been using E5, firstly V Power but lately Texaco super unleaded (garage round the corner from me sells it and also the only place around with a premium diesel too!) And no problems, car fires up straight away even during the colder weather. I did top up with some E10 the other day after already having 1/2 tank of premium in, and no problems. That might be an option considering the ridiculous fuel prices!

Long time no post, everything the same over here really! Exciting couple of days with the car though, finally got the spoiler that's been sat in my shed then garage for 3 years put on, no electrics wired up yet, pushed that back to sometime in the future. Also passed MOT today with only 4 advisories, 2 of which are for old/discoloured indicator bulbs on the rear, one for a track rod end and one for the blowing exhaust I've been putting off fixing for over a year I'd say I've had my money's worth! Also forgot to mention back in summer I had all belts changed, 3x fan belts and timing belt/water pump too, followed by a full service and brake fluid change, so it was great to get all that done.

I bought a full kit for the hatchback from a member here a couple years ago and the front lip ended up being a fibreglass replica, wasn't too bothered because I prefer the VTI lip and paid an alright price, but somebody must have made them one time, they just break easier!

Hi Joe - I recognise you and the car from the Facebook pages. I'm also driving an MB that previously belonged to 2 of my Grandads, both of whom have passed now, so I know sometimes it isn't just as simple as 'scrap it' without even trying to put effort in! Not to mention you've got a nice clean MB6 there (with the bumpers on ) which is getting to be a seriously, seriously rare car. Not sure if you remember me but mine needed a LOT of welding doing to pass the MOT last November, I ended up having both lower sills completely chopped out and replaced as well as patches in the rear wheel arches, an area behind the ECU in the passenger footwell, and a couple little areas on the outer sill (where I can see you've got big holes) right at the back, and the opposite side to that I had welded 18 months before because the jacking point collapsed. All in it took round about 4 days for the guy to do it all and cost me £600. I think maybe the undersealing/protection following the last bit of work accelerated the rot in the 18 months between MOT'S, but now I've got all new metal down there I'm quite hopeful that it won't return anytime soon. When we get any sustained good weather I'm going to get the sill covers off and neutralise any surface rust that's started on the outer. So basically I think yours can be saved, it just won't be too cheap! There's a few more tricky areas to sort. And wherever possible with the lower sills, you should get them cut out and swapped for new metal, or the remaining areas might go eventually. You can buy replacement outer/side sill pieces to weld in, I discovered these a few days too late to utilise them on mine, but mine was mainly the lower sills anyway. It's good that you've stripped the car out, so any more problem areas you'll be able to find and won't get a nasty surprise. And it's good that you're not in a rush to get the work done, and have somewhere you can keep it off the road. It means you don't have to try and get it rushed to pass an MOT or something. Oh and another option for smaller areas is to ask anybody scrapping clean shells to cut bits out for you, but I wouldn't hold much hope for that. Just my experience anyway pal, good luck with the restoration!

And not to mention any ARB would be an upgrade over not having one so any of the Rover 45/ZS 120 stuff would work as well, and a lot easier to find?

Weird one today, recently my Great Grandad passed away (funeral today, yeah I'm having a rough few months...) and he was the one who bought my MB2 from new. Must have happened when a relative was sorting some things but I visited his place today and sat on top of a dresser was the original red immobiliser master key! Never thought I'd come across this ever! And how strange that it's been sat in a drawer for the last 22 years almost. Still in the packet with the key tag straight from dealer. Now reunited with the car & myself. Am I right in thinking this is only for help rewriting the code on the immobiliser or could it be used if I wanted a new central locking fob making? I've seen various discussions on old threads.

Rust, rust and more rust. Lower sills which are usually completely covered by the sill protectors, and the outer/side which the covers clip into. Usually possible to get fingers underneath and round the covers. Also the wheel arches up from the sills of course!

Should be able to get hubs from a 1.4iS (basically base model with rear discs) or a sport or even 1.5 (MB3) as those are same size and have rear discs? Provided you can find them of course.

So soon after the new year I called around and managed to find a garage with a fella who knew what he was doing when it comes to Trailing arm bushes, sounded like he'd done dozens of them on Rovers etc, and a decent price. Other garages were a bit like 'waah the bolts will be rusty if they've never been off, we'll get back to you' (they didn't) and another garage initially quoted £140 per side Unfortunately the next day my Dad passed away really unexpectedly at only 54 years old and as you can expect put a massive hold on everything I had going on. And that's the situation I'm in at the moment. But I'm happy to say I've finally had new TA bushes fitted today! Something I should have done 2/3 years ago truth be told and maybe if I found this garage earlier I would have done. It's a small thing but feels like a big win because it's a job that has always needed doing in the background. Oh, and the brake pipe on one side burst when they dropped the arm, but it was the opposite side to the one that burst during the MOT last November, so that's another MOT advisory dealt with today. Forgot to say, was held up initially because I tried to get Rover/MG OEM bushes, only to buy one, and then get let down not once but twice while trying to buy a second! So I ended up with 2 from the motor factors, can't fit OEM bushes if they're simply not available.