SirPaperbag

Here in Germany you can still get tons of aftermarket headlights, regardless of you having a facelift or pre-facelift model. My primary source for parts like this is good ol' eBay. Could be that the German version has a completely different catalogue of offerings, but in the age of machine learning and LLMs you can easily navigate the German version (ebay.de) by copy/pasting the text, or even using translation tools built into your browser. My only concern would be shipping in a post-Brexit world, but I recently ordered something from Rimmerbros for my Civic, so that shouldn't be a huge issue.

Oh, funny you should say that. Right now someone on this forum is also doing a K-Swap, maybe you could shoot them a PM if you've got some specific questions about that. What I know about K-swaps (thought about doing it a few years ago) is that the engine swap kit is actually the cheapest part of the procedure. xD What adds up insanely fast are all the extra bits you have to get to make it all fit - shifters, cables, mounting kits, brackets, all that jazz. You could spend the same amount of money you paid for the whole swap kit - just for a nice exhaust header. So if you're serious about swapping your engine, maybe reconsider going for an (albeit overpriced) D16 instead of a K20/K24. If 50% more power than stock isn't enough you could still go for forced induction to easily reach 200hp. I personally am more than happy with my 'stock' D16Z9 (full bolt-ons though), but I'm also not that interested in sheer power and acceleration. Got my Kawasaki for that.

Oh yeah, I can definitely relate to that. Sadly, even D16 swaps have gotten pricier and pricier as time went on. At least where I'm located, ymmv. When I got my Civic a complete B18 swap kit was around 2000€. Now you can count yourself lucky if you even find one to begin with. And then it's never below 4k. Got a spare Z6 a few years ago to pull apart and build with forged internals. In those few years it literally appreciated by 100%. Just crazy. Hondas used to be those cheap, easy to get into modding platforms, but I guess no car is safe from ... 'collectors'. But welcome to the team! :)

Welcome to the club and good luck with your project! Also used to (briefly) think about a K-swap a few years ago, but I quickly changed my mind after I found out that all the extra bits and pieces you need to make it all fit and work can easily cost twice as much as the K-series engine itself. And as far as I remember you're going to need EG parts for the engine bay, suspension bits and headers. While the M-chassis does share parts with the EJ/EK platform, Integra and EG parts are much more numerous.

New OEM-grade replacements should be a safe bet. Even if they are not as stiff as 'upgrade' parts (which are only an upgrade if you want to track your car), they are still a lot better than any old, chewed out bushings.

No probs, if the experts say it's fine then it's fine. Power steering ain't my forté to begin with, so better trust those who know what they're doing.

As far as I know, regular PSF ist more viscous than PSF-2 or PSF-S (2 is less modern than S) and has different additives, so it's a bit like differently weighted oils. That means that topping up a PSF-2/-S system with regular PSF should be okay for a bit, but there are also many other factors like corrosion prevention, temperature resistance and all kinds of things at work in those different fluid standards. Not as drastic as with DOT3/DOT4 brake fluids, but still big differences nonetheless. Better to get the proper fluid or you're possibly going to damage something in your power steering system over time. Nothing's as expensive as cheaping out. Edit: You can also check the reservoir for any foaming that'd indicate problems with running that fluid (-mixture).

To be honest, I've rarely even heard about these switches acting up, so my best guess would be either to just go to a wrecker or buying a used one from someone parting their M-chassis out. There are still enough of those around for that to be an option. And this is just speculation on my part, but I also noticed that pretty much all 90s Hondas share visually the same stalks, be it an EG or an NSX. So maybe that's another thing to look into. Regarding the brightness issue - I myself fitted some ultra bright H4s from Philips that are actually meant for motorcycles, and they are considerably brighter than the normal ones before. But that's still only an alright level of brightness, not neccessarily great. So I always also use my fog lights when driving at night, which really helps light up the periphery. And retrofitting HIDs and LED bulbs is... kinda sketchy and also possibly illegal, depending on where you live. But there are pretty nice LED ones on the market. So you only really got a choice between adding extra lights, getting the brightest H4s, or going down the sketchy route of retrofitting more modern tech into your M. Those 'Ultra Bright LED Laser Matrix Plus whatever' lights modern cars use are just so extremely overpoweringly bright that no matter what you get- as long as it doesn't outshine the literal f-ing sun, you're gonna get the short end of the stick. It's ridiculous.

Regarding your audio upgrades I'd recommend getting a head unit that's not too deep, as I've had some issues with longer/deeper units before I got my Blaupunkt one. So, Ideally one without a CD drive, as those add a lot of length and therefore might interfere with the wiring loom in the back. You'll probably need some spacers for aftermarket in-door speakers, and the dimensions you're looking for are a 165mm diameter and around 18mm in thickness. For example I myself got a set of Hifonics Vulcan VX-6.2C speakers, which are a two-way set with an external crossover unit that I just taped to the inside of the doorcard, and the Hifonics tweeters perfectly fit into the OEM triangle tweeter units, at least if you carefully adjust the metal prongs that hold them in place. They sound quite good by themselves, but definitely lack bass. But I guess folks that want to upgrade their audio system are also going to get a standalone subwoofer, so... yeah.

I just bought handbrake cables for the MB6/MC2 models. They have rear discs and in the case of the MB6 are the exact same chassis as mine. Haven't attempted the actual swap yet, but I've got all the neccessary parts lying around already and am pretty sure that the MB6 cables are gonna work. And don't forget that you'll need different brake lines, as well! (Just the flexible part, though)

You are technically right about not needing the whole trailing arms, but good luck with both finding the spindles by themselves in usable condition and taking the old ones off. Finding parts like that is getting progressively hard as our cars start to turn into oldtimers, and most of these super specific upgrade parts have already been grabbed about a decade ago. We're kinda late to the party in that regard. The spindles are also secured to the trailing arms with extremely strong threadlocker, which oftentimes are pretty old and corroded on top, which makes removing them near impossible without drilling them out. Stripped a bolt attempting to remove the disc brake ones, even with applying heat and using rust remover beforehand. No chance. So, yes - you technically don't need them, but realistically you will. Except if you're fine with drilling all of the bolts out and dealing with that headache. And the part about bleeding the brakes is also generally correct. Most cars have their brake systems set up like that so you can still come to a stop if a brake line fails. Otherwise if you combine FR with RR / FL with RL you will only have working brakes on one side of your car, which I don't have to explain why that would be very bad.