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Finally getting around to a build thread for my third car It all started on a dull early may day. A Friend of mine messaged me, asking if I needed any parts from her MB4 before she scrapped it. It had been sitting on her drive since she her daughter had been born. I said to her, "let me know what the scrappy offers, and i'll chuck £50 on top and come grab it", knowing that the d16w4 powerplant in this could replace my lathargic D14 in my MB2 The next day me and a mate collected it, threw some trade plates on and ran up to my workshop. Even with the old 4 speed slush-box, and a years neglect, the MB4 walked away from my MB2 on a straight bit of road. Once we arrived, my friend parked the car up and then headed home. I then stood and had a smoke, looking at this car having a "Wangan midnight" esque moment, seeing the colour of the Sicilian Red paint for the first time. Plans had changed. (see attached image) Rust and engine work: First I got the car up on stands and made a list of everything wrong with it. The rear passenger sill and inner arch passed the good old screwdriver test, however the driver's side failed miserably, along with a few places around the front jacking point, and front inner arch. Out came the grinder, welder, and some conveniently shaped and cut sheet metal that I would be using to patch these big holes. This was a steep learning curve, as I have only ever done agricultural welding, and never thin bodywork. Once the rust was dealt with next came the auto box - I had never planned to keep this gearbox, so the hunt for an s20 close ratio box began. During this time, the auto box, torque converter and PRND lever were all disposed of in an appropriate fashion (Thrown into a skip as fast as humanly possible🤣), meanwhile, the engine was suspended by a ratchet strap around 2 on the gearbox bolts, and a random 2x4 i had laying about across the wings (See attached) Whilst the box was off, I decided to replace the rear main seal, sump gasket, and clean out the oil pickup tube. A few shiny parts were fitted during this time too, including an oil sandwich plate with senders for both oil pressure and temp, HKS oil filter, TTV flywheel and an exedy stage 1 clutch. Once I sourced a box, the new mounts were fitted up and after a copious amount of faffing around the engine and box were in. (I wish I had an engine crane!!) I altered the wiring on the PRND plug to disable the inhibitor switch, as well as the reverse lights. I finished under the bay by rebuilding the distributor, replacing the plugs and HT leads. I also added a bus bar to the firewall as my battery was going to be boot mounted. I am using a Janspeed 4-2-1 manifold, a smashed out OEM cat shell and a Skunk2 megapower exhaust system. I have a Whale pen15 air intake as well. Interior: This car had a creme interior, which I knew wouldn't survive me daily driving it. I quickly tore this out, installed a load of sound deadening and the various wires i'd be needing for my ICE setup, then fitted a black carpet and VTI "bus seat" interior. I mounted the battery and circuit breaker in the spare wheel well, as well as a power distribution block. this would be needed when I got around to building the boot and fitting my 3 amps. I finished the interior off with an oil pressure and temperature gauge set, a fire extinguisher, and an old school pioneer flipout headunit + DVD player. Exterior: The exterior is largely untouched, as it is the rare sicilian red pearl colour. This car was factory specced with a full VTIs kit and Jordan wheels. The jordan wheels went onto my other MB2, so that I could fit my 15" TSW imola wheels. I welded the rear wiper hole up, and the old spoiler holes. I then fitted an "auto spoiler", which had been preiovsly fitted to a friend's recently imported 200sx. This was an almost perfect colour match.
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This is my project car. My weekend car. My money pit and my track weapon. And it's awful, and beautiful, and I love it. Current mods: Suspension: Driftworks HSD Coilovers OZ F1 wheels 7J Nankang NS-2R 205/50/r15 EBC slotted brake discs (255/251) EBC Greenstuff Pads Chassis and Seat experience TR Lane Rollbar Takata 3" 4-point Harnasses with buckle LTEC FIA bucket seats (Cobra Monaco rebranded) Trunk popper wire Momo corse secondhand steering wheel Aliexpress Short Shifter NRG Short hub NRG Quick release Delrin Door bushings IL Motorsport Cupholder Center Console Driveline 1.8 Torsen diff 3.9 Engine Japspeed Alu Rad Skidnation Coolant reroute Suzuki Cappuccino bottle Silicone Hoses Ebay Turbo Kraken Manifold and Downpipe Stainless hoses for turbo cooling and oil feeds Epman Freddy BOV Ebay Intercooler Ebay Intercooler piping NGK BKR7E plugs Electronics Flip-up android radio Pioneer Speakers Pioneer underseat sub (behind seat) Innovate MTX-L Plus Wideband Innovate MTX-D Water Temp Gauge Innovate MTX-D Boost Gauge Central locking with remote MX5-tech Headlight controller LED Headlights ExtraEFI MS2 standalone ECU no-name serial port hub to USB Mods lined up for installation (Need Time and motivation): Skidnation Chassis Rails Ultra Racing Frog arms MAC Electronic boost control EPMAN FPR Oil Catch Can(s) IL Motorsport Sport Engine Mounts Toyota COPs Photo history (summarized) It all started as a stock MX-5 in a new and mostly empty garage. First mod, Coils. Quite a drop. Polished the car proper. Next up, wheels. Got these cheap cause they were bent (apperently). Got them straightened out recently, but got some different ones in the meantime. Those are migrating to a civic. Love this Rollbar time? Rollbar time! Makes it practical AF. That's a Server Rack. Add Seats, add bracing (rarely have this on, as I'm working on it too much). Also, those fresh new wheels I told you about. Happy LED Lights! Fixed the seat mounts. Highly recommend it. Skidnation mounts dó have slots, all the others don't. As you can see, it's 2mm off center. Sticker mods. Dropped and swapped the diff for a discounted Fuji unit. Big mistake. Get the torsen. Save up for it. 100% recommend this subwoofer placement. Depending on your passengers, get a second one. The rumblies are amazing. And invisible. Car broke down. Hat to take the valve cover off. Painted it. NOW WE'RE TALKING And then it was like this for a while. Most of 2019 really.When doing a turbo, order éverything before you break up the car. Do a mockup outside the car. PLEASE. I had to wait for fittings 2 weeks every time I discovered missing one. Ordered éverything double, so the next turbo build in the club would be way more managable. And it was. Kinda like this Making boost These are too big. They don't fit. I had to trim the rings so they could slot into each other. Feelsbadman. But then it all comes together. With a coolant reroute added in for good measure. Oh f**k yes. Oh f**k no. Coolant hose popped. Learned a LOT about stainless fittings. Towing your MX-5 Project with your Prelude Daily. This happened more than I'd like to admit. Love that Honda's butt tho. Fixed it. Boosted and zoomed at 0,5 bar for a while. Little bro's 1998 in the background. s**t. The fuji turned to crisps. Torsen Time! Bought one with a broken holder. Swapped my fuji out of mine, and this one in. Oh, so the brakes áren't supposed to make that kind of a racket all of the time? New calipers all around, new (cheap) pads in the rear. Are we leaking oil yet? We're leaking oil. (Current problem, hope it's not the pump/pan. Did the front main, but not the cam seals.) Wheels are straight now, with fresh rubber And welcome to today. Sneak peek of the daily deck.
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Hi, I'm Patrick and this is my '96 Fastback which bought in late 2019 as my first car. Or at least how it looked a few years ago. Lots of stuff has been done to it since then and I will try my best to dig up some pictures of the process as we catch up to the present. :) The previous owner, who bought it brand-new, was an old man and pretty much all the dents are his work, by the way. Just wanted to clarify. ;) It is (was) a bone stock, base-spec, MA8 with the optional 'Comfort' package installed from factory. Meaning it's got a 1.4l engine that makes 90hp, electrical windows in the front, power steering, A/C and no ABS, with drum brakes in the rear. Oh, and that atrocious fake wood that fools absolutely nobody and looks cheap as hell. What were they thinking? Oldest pictures I could find, was already on some lowering springs by then. Also removed some fugly flower-stickers from the doors and got rid of the 'Comfort' badges. Like every responsible young man before me, I of course immediately went ahead and installed some lowering springs and got myself a nice, quality exhaust. The springs are from Eibach and, if memory serves me right, the exhaust is made by a Polish company called 'Ulter'. We did some proper maintenance, though. You need a good foundation to build a house, right? That, and my old man never would have let me get away without doing some maintenance anyways. :P Beauty shot of the freshly unboxed exhaust. The exhaust arrived on a weekday at around 7PM and me and my old man got giddy like a bunch of kids on christmas eve as we put or grubby hands on it. We immediately went out into the freezing cold to get it installed ASAP. :D Roughly an hour later we were done and it felt like it was the coolest car on the planet for that moment. If I only knew what was to follow... ;) Might be able to find a video, but no promises. In the next episode...! Broke 18 year old me finally saves up enough money to get a set of wheels. And...! Something big on the horizon.
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Admit it, the fogs look Hella good. ;)
SirPaperbag posted a gallery image in Showcase Members Car Gallery
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Hi all, So I can confirm aftermarket seats, without cutting frames or welding mounts to car, are completely possible. If you have read my before method with the universal frames this way is a lot easier and more cost effective. After 3 months of research I found a company called Planted Technology, they produced made to order seat sub frames for many cars. I emailed them to ensure my car was not an EK or an EG. I measured up the cars holes and got back the details of the closest fit frames they make. The Honda Accord 4th & 5th gen have the same interior as the MB3/MB6. I took a risk bought the frames and they do in fact directly fit. I admit it was a bit of a fiddle as they had to come from America so may have been slightly warped or bent on delivery, never the less I got them in as seen in the image below Here is a link to the main page, it would better off ordering them from GSM performance Planted Technology https://www.plantedtechnology.com/products/planted-seat-bracket-honda-accord-4th-5th-generation-1989-1997-passenger-right GSM performance https://www.sportseats4u.co.uk/product/planted-honda-accord-bracket/ Things to consider, these frames do not come with threads. M12 Nuts will be needed to fit seatbelts, M8 Nuts and bolts to fit seats to rails or frames, washers highly recommended
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Hi everyone, Thought I'd write up a post to help a few people out. Spent 2 hours researching this today. It is possible to fit after market seats in an MB model civic without a tailored/specially fitted subframe. So for all of those that would like a sportier seat, or some racing seats, this is how you do it and what you need List of parts: Seat (of your choice) Universal side mount rails Base mount conversion rails (you will only need these if you are buying seats with base mount/bottom fitting only) How to install seat seat: Remover factory seats and rails from car Remove factory rails from factory seat install universal side mounts to factory rails ( some bolts may need to be removed or cut off) put factory rails back into car with universal mounts attached Install base mount conversion brackets to side mounts install seat to base mount bracket If you have a seat that is side mounts only you will not need the base mount conversion bracket. you can skip step 4 and install the seat directly to the universal side mounts. The great thing about the universal side mounts is that you have a lot of choice in how you can position your seat. meaning you can have more lean in the seat. be higher up or lower down. this is all depend ending on the side mounts you buy and the amount of holes available. List of parts and seats I used to make this possible: Seat - Sparco R100 - https://www.demon-tweeks.com/uk/sparco-r100-seat-7000253/ Side Mounts - Sparco Steel Side Mounts - https://www.demon-tweeks.com/uk/sparco-steel-side-mounts-s-s004902/ Base mount conversion - OMP Base Mount Conversion Brackets - https://www.demon-tweeks.com/uk/omp-base-mount-conversion-brackets-omphc0-0660/ Hope this helps anyone still trying to figure out how to do this.
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modified Civic Aerodeck Heart Exhaust
Paricyte posted a gallery image in Showcase Members Car Gallery
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modified Civic Aerodeck at Flashcars UK meet
Paricyte posted a gallery image in Showcase Members Car Gallery
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Hey everyone I had my Honda civic MB3 for over a year now but I wanted but put a Bee R rev limiter in de car for some pops and bangs but I have a stock ecu with a 26Pin 16Pin and 22Pin connector of a D15Z8 engine. So my question is it possible to put a Bee R in this car and witch wires do I need to use to make it work. I have looked online for information put I cant find any with this connector type. All of the video's online that I have seen are different wire ring and different connectors.
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Civic Aerodeck and Hatch at Caffeine and Machine
Paricyte posted a gallery image in Showcase Members Car Gallery
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Paricyte posted a gallery image in Showcase Members Car Gallery
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Paricyte posted a gallery image in Showcase Members Car Gallery
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