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marko

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Everything posted by marko

  1. marko
    Duct tape the holes then heat wrap the pipe would be different.
  2. marko
    i like that
  3. marko
    lol seal the underside of the archs and sills waxoil the insides, if you seal the insides then the condensation would hae nowhere to run off and would hold in places causing problems :/
  4. marko
    And the running gear and box front suspension (if you don't already have adjustable) loom ecu And 200whp is around 250hp at the crank give or take.
  5. marko
    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/EG-DC2-RED-FR ... 4ac48ff82e that should fit you also get triple the product for twice the price
  6. marko
    get on the toyota starlet forums surley there will be guys selling there little turbos after upgrading to a bigger one
  7. marko
    d14 turbo !! probs cost around the same price as a engine swap no need to forge it or ewt unless you plan to take it past like 250hp at the crank
  8. marko
    x2 indoors is best and a hair dryer will help with awkward parts
  9. marko
    looking good mate
  10. marko
    same CL seem a little hostile as i read through some past posts here is whee its at
  11. marko
    lol reminds me of the jordan only not yellow and a million times better
  12. marko
    looking good pal
  13. marko
    I've already got a skunk 2 inlet manifold for the c4 so that's why I've went for another c4 so I don't have to buy another inlet manifold. And the cheapest b18c head I could find was £300, where I got this c4 head that's been sonic cleaned and eveything for £150, BARGAIN! I could be wrong but I read somewhere here that the skunk intake(for the C4) and the C4's ports were miss matched which would give bad airflow into the head and that is a bargain at that price, add some throttle bodies for sure they sound amazing!!
  14. marko
    I've just left it for now it hasn't seemed to be too bad now like its easing up can still feel it dragging the back of the car slightly but it isn't getting mega hot really just as hot as the other side tbh need to do it but going to Florida in sept means I need to save 600 a month from now till I go, which leaves me with 250 ish for petrol drugs and food in that order Lol noticed the otherday that 10000rpm is the guy I bought my rear trailing arm off he drove his car past us several times in a show of force maybe he was p**sed we never asked him about his car? It was a nice car though
  15. marko
    Yeah wax oil inside all the panels but don't got too mad with it as you'll find you car leaking wax oil everywhere next time we get a bit of sun, I'd recommend Shultz for the underside and inside your arches (whatever you do don't used WD40 may say rust prevention on it but it isn't very good long term lol.
  16. marko
    Lol big hammer wins every time
  17. marko
    But he plans to remove those good qualities by taking the snail (intake provides yhe best of both short and long runners with the use of iab's) out and all of the c4's guts, the iab's have already been disabled so there's no real need to use the c4 head the ports just don't match up with other intakes very well even those made to fit the c4 head.
  18. marko
    If I were you I wouldn't have bought the b18c4 head would have gone any b18 head but the c4/c1 due to them having a few unique qualitys that prevent a lot of what are universal between b series head incompatible :/
  19. marko
    Bought the second one mate! but that hub & drive shaft still doing to be a b*****d to seperate Use a large crowbar, or as Clarkson would say use a big hammer, should have gone to halfrauds and bought a large claw type could have fitted it onto the hub aswell if it was big enough, think the 19mm ones are like 20 though so any bigger and there getting expensive
  20. marko
    I think you should sod the garage and buy a ball joint splitter instead
  21. marko

    fuel rail

    marko replied to gary1mc's topic in Engine & Chassis

    H tune are a pretty small company catering for a large amount of Honda owners there's bound to be HIV ups here and there and all the bad reviews I've read tend yo have a happy ending and at the prices they charge you can't really complain I've seen people charge more for a bog standard ecu
  22. marko
    Will book it into a garage monday So much for saving money Gutted for you pal hate it when things don't go as they should :/
  23. marko

    fuel rail

    marko replied to gary1mc's topic in Engine & Chassis

    not without a re-map pal
  24. marko
    good news pal should be smooth sailing from here on out
  25. marko
    is it a rear hub? if it is i would opt for fitting just the hub over the whole arm whole arm is a joke to do handbrake is a pain aswell. hub nut is real easy to split use a small flat screwdriver and hammer it into the cut out until the nut is round enough to spin then use a strong arm an 32mm socket to crack it, if its on the front it would be best to crack it while its still on the ground Its the front mate! big breaker wont even crack it with me jumping on the bar lol! i've changed rears 4 time lol there easy now did a front on a peugeot 306 in the scrapper still have then bent screwdriver i used to jam the hub as the car was already in the air, i remeber using a 2ft breaker bar with a 3ft pice of inch bar on the end thought the bar was gunna give before the nut :/ so yeah go to a scrapper or metal shop and get an off cut of inch bar or even a scaffold bar slid right up to the socket instead
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