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Vtisgilman

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Everything posted by Vtisgilman

  1. Yeah I have done that and got back some usefull information. Iv now got 5 places giving me quotes. Cheapest is 1800 and most are about 2000 plus VAT. Which is more what I was thinking. That's for a 6 point weld in cage that meets MSA regulations for racing. Apparently it cost about 7k to get a rollcage design FIA approved which is why there so expensive, gotta get back some of there costs I guess.
  2. My car doesn't have locks any more as it's a track only car and lives in the garage. I'm sure the lock pin could be put through a hole drilled in the top with ease. I have cut out all the metal inside skins so there is nothing to mount the handle on. So iv got a bit of wire going from the latch, out a hole in the foamex and screwed in place. Just give it a tug and door opens. Iv got no handle on the back door cos iv got no back seats but for the front doors iv got a fabric handle screwed to what's left of the metal frame and pulled through the foamex.
  3. Personally I prefer the mb without a spoiler. Iv had 2 mb's and removed it off both of them. There just for show anyway, they don't produce downforce. And I like the clearer view out the back. One thing I can tell you is the mg zs 180 spoiler doesn't fit, not even close. Head light wise I don't know how you'd measure it without taking them apart. You might aswell strip it down if you want to measure it and while your there paint the chrome bit black. Looks loads better.
  4. They are made of 3mm thick foamex. Got it off eBay, was really cheap. Think a 8x4 sheet was about £35 and that's pleanty enough to do all four doors. They are fitted same as Windows, drill straight through it into the door and use self tapping screws and small washers. Bit that takes the longest is making a template out of cardboard. Foamex is good though, you can heat it up and bend it into shapes then when it cools it stays there. I cut the inside skin out of the door aswell for more weigh saving.
  5. Can anyone recommend somewhere to have a roll Cage installed. I know a few people on here building track cars have had cages installed so where did you get it done and how much did it cost? I want it to be MSA and FIA approved so it can be used for racing. I have contacted Safety Devices for a quote and their FIA approved cage is coming in at 3k for supply and fitting which seems a bit steep to me. Any advice on places and how much it cost them would be much appreciated, especially from anyone in the motorsport community.
  6. I drilled through the polycarbonate and straight through the metal frame of the door. Once you remove the rubbers that hold the glass youl see a nice little flat lip that you stick the rubber tape to and drill into. I actually used self tapping stainless screws, not bolts but small bolts would work just as well. When I get a min I'll take a close up photo so you can see what I mean
  7. And here from the inside and the front with a slider.
  8. I got mine for my vtis from ACW Motorsport plastics. They are better quality than plastic4performance but half the price. You need to look up mg zs though. I wanted to remove the rear quarter glass in mine so he sent me a sheet of polycarbonate to make my own and bolted them in. Saves a lot of weight removing it and all the rubbers and framework that holds the glass. Here is a pic of how it looks. Ricky Evans Motorsport also do a heated front window screen for the mg zs that fits straight in if you really want to go mad.
  9. Yeah I am pretty annoyed. It might be I'm just unlucky and you'll be fine. My car has lived outside all that time aswell, only recently got a big enough garage to keep it in. Although if you do find one leaking I'll buy the others off you
  10. Yeah I set up the group buy for them and I think that's when you got yours so they will be exactly same age. They have probably done less than 8000 miles in that time, think that maybe the problem. With the car sat not being used for long periods of time I think the seals have probably dried out or something.
  11. No they said they don't. These ones are out of production so I'd have to buy two new rear ones to make a matching axel. If i have to do that I'd rather buy all new but don't wanna spend the money at the moment. Only just bought coilovers for my gt86.
  12. Hi all. Don't know if anyone here might be able to help me out. Iv got a set of the older meisterR zeta s coilovers on my vtis. They have been on about 5 years now and recently the drivers side rear has started leaking oil, about a drip a week. I contacted meisterR and they don't rebuild the older ones and said I just need to buy new set. I'd like to avoid this for as long as I can so was wondering if anyone has an old set laying around that I could get hold of. Hopefully someone will be like me and have an odd set cos ones damaged or even a whole set going cheap. Thanks
  13. Yeah I was going to loop the lines with a t piece going to a little reservoir as a breather. I would much rather take it apart properly though so that's annoying it doesn't come apart. In what way is the dc2 one adjustable?
  14. Hi people I am removing my power steering on my vtis that I use for track days. The car never gets used on the road so I don't have to worry about parking it with heavy steering. I removed the belt to see how it felt and I don't find it to bad so next is to remove it completely. I was going to remove the rack to open it up and do the depower mod but though while it's off I might aswell put a different one on that is quicker lock to lock, as the turn in isn't that great so a shorter ratio rack that's been depowered would hopefully be a big improvement. There is lots of info out there but no one seems to know for sure and some info contradicts what others have said. So as this is the home of mb6 experts I'm hoping someone here can shed some light on what would be a good replacement rack that is a straight swap.
  15. Hello folks. I'm having a bit of trouble trying to fit my oil cooler. I have the cooler mounted and everything I need to do the job and also plumb in all my gauges aswell. I'm using a thermostatic mocal sandwich plate to feed the cooler but there doesn't seem to be any room to mount it. Iv seen plenty of install guides and videos of doing it and no one seem to have trouble fitting the plat. But on the b18c4 there just seems to be no room around it. You can get the plate on but there is no room for fittings and the hoses to go. There seem to be more hoses and random lines on the back of a b18c4 block than any other engine from pics iv seen. Has anyone else managed to fit one and how did they do it? Thanks
  16. Did you ever do this? Was wondering myself why no one has done a h22 swap yet. If you do it like a h2b swap and get the adapter plate to mount the h22 to our MB gearbox surly that would make it easier. Just be a case of getting a new cambelt side engine mount and the wiring. Or am I missing out some overly complicated?
  17. Genuine honda would be ideal but expensive. Best thing is get on Htune or Tegiwa and get a Denso one, there supposed to be the best and cost about £70.
  18. Not seen that one before, looks pretty good. Bit expensive though. Cost me less that £20 to weld in a bit of bar so easier to do that instead. Also a rear brace doesn't really do much in our cars, a guy I know who builds space frame chassis had a look and said the rear end is really well built and pretty solid from factory. The problem with our cars is the length so the whole car twists in hard cornering or if you park one wheel on a curb. Only way to sort is full roll cage.
  19. They don't, I had a EG one a few years ago and had to send it back. Think one set of bolt holes line up but the others are way out. Iv just got a pice of tube welded in and painted with Hammerite
  20. Ha you will be cracking on. I'll have to book in advance next time.
  21. Haha fair enough, I'll leave the contents of my sex dungeon to another site then.
  22. what's the rules for selling stuff now? Got lots of stuff I need to get rid of
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