beastgtir

Looking good

When it was flooded, it has caused some electronic problems. What electrical parts could have gotten wet?

Looks an eBay turbo kit.

Better off getting a kit suited to it, chopping and changing bits will be more hassle in long run.

Looks about right drop. Having it too low just ends up ruining the car and parts start failing. Not worth the sacrifice.

Looks about right drop. Having it too low just ends up ruining the car and parts start failing. Not worth the sacrifice.

Sold my old mb6 vtis (prior to this one) through the Facebook page today. Someone put a wanted advert for a black vti. In a moment of madness I offered my car and he came down and ripped my arm off! I let go at a reasonable price and it was sat doing nothing for the past month or so.

Hello buddy, have done a couple of boosted Hondas including a mb6 vtis. The turbo kit we got from America by a company called Boost Flow. Our set up including some parts which were used, Stainless steel ramhorn manifold t3/t4 57 trim ar oil lines screamer pipe (all v band fitting) (all the above were £1400 ish from America) tial 50mm waste gate tial 50mm dump valve (the pair for £150 used in red) 3" straight through exhaust (already on car) competition (clutch CC) flywheel with F1 racing 6 puck sprung clutch - Stage 4 (flywheel was on the car, clutch was £100 ish from America) Edelbrock intake manifold (£150 used) 2.5" intercooler and pipes (£120 used) Guages (we had defi ones already) Rc injectors 550cc I think (already fitted) Neptune chipped ECU (already had) That was pretty much all the bits needed. Plus the service bits, cambelt, oil etc Managed it on about £2k, the biggest expense was the turbo kit brand new @ £1400 Prices are roughly what we paid We fitted the bits ourselves with basic tools, was road tuned at around 10 Psi somehow by an outfit who I care not to name but they were shoddy. The cars fuelling was all over the show, had it adjusted but never made it to the dyno. Was very quick though and a lot of fun. Your remap is potentially the biggest spend after the turbo kit. A good tuner will charge around £400

It's not major issues. More niggles then problems, some of the issues are just due to the fact it was stood for a while. Just annoying mainly as I don't do a lot of mechanicals myself and trying to find a decent mechanic is impossible around here. My friend who is into cars helps me out with bits. I've got arch shields now so probably fix them tomorrow and the screws for the steering cowling. Clutch seems to be holding up as I have given it some stick. Think the hot days cause it to slip. On the cold nights it's been fine. Wanted to lower it a bit more but the door is barely above the pavement and exhaust scrapes on ramps. Probably get the centre box looked and see if the exhaust guy can fit a slim profile one. Nothing to feel bad about sue. The car was a great purchase at the price. This is the thing with cars, the roads around here are not very good and luckily it's been small expenses. A lot of comments on it and attracts a lot of looks, especially the younger children. Had some guys asking me how comes it's so shiny. Unfortunately due to the weather and my neighbour doing some building work. It's a bit grubby at the minute. My friend who is into cars lent me his polisher and gave me some clay to get it cleaned up but I think il give it a while before I start any more polishing work as the car is seeing a lot of use at the minute. Probably do a few bits before the end of the year,

Looking good. Blades definitely look better turn stock rims.

Find out why it is getting rebuilt firstly, is he competent at building a decent engine? Round here there are a few guys who rebuild engines, most of them are knocking engines (bottom end/bearings/shells). The get the crank polished/grinded and just throw in another set of ACL bearings and your good to go... For a month or few til it starts knocking again as the tolerances are incorrect etc. A proper rebuild is expensive and time consuming, checking you have the right colour colour bearings etc etc. Most Honda cranks are 'nitrate' coated (unsure if its nitrate or what the proper name is!), and polising or grinding them removes this..

I had similar issue, a little persuasion helped!

wouldn't bother with the added expense over 12 bhp tbh. Depends on what your paying too.

They have decent reviews the toyosports as a few people run them but most say they need a little fettling when fitting.

Just get a second hand one for £20-£30 tbh.

With all this product shrinking going on and prices remaining the same or rising. Every day stuff like food, the packaging disguising the true size etc etc. I've noticed that the oil companies have been doing this also for a couple of years ago by making the oil bottles 4 litres from 5. Buy a litre bottle costs and absoulete fortune as most cars take around 4.2 - 4.5 litres. Rip off Britain continues ...

Looks good, hand polish or machine polished it?

Everyone has their ups and downs but typically all the people I know end up splashing a lot of money for big power builds! What are you replacing the EG with?

You pay for a full base map initially. Then any tweaks are charged accordingly, as you don't need a full map it's typically per hour tuning/dyno time. @kink. He hasn't got a good reputation. He has blown up too many cars. A lad bought a k24 engine off my mate. Babybhp blew it up. So my mate swapped it for another one as the guy was saying the engine was faulty. This time he was advised to run it for a couple of days (k20 head Frankenstein) and it was running fine. As soon it went for tuning Yasir blew it up again. Also Yasir ruined a guys b20z fully spec'd out ef which has never ran right. Somehow he tuned a running 400 Bhp (rdt)ek9 rotrex to 300 odd and couldn't get it back to where it was originally. He had a drag ek from Birmingham (American import 1000 Bhp). He tyres his hand at tuning it and couldn't get it over 5/600 Bhp. In the end it had that many issues the guy broke it. Same with the k20 rotrex. He ended up pulling the Charger off n selling it as ask swap ek9. The cars that are running right are probably ones where he got a map off thee internet for ones running similar spec. He has been on the scene for years. I first came across him in around 2008-9 when he was about 18-19. He very much fancies himself as a playboy tuner but has limited experience. He has flown to USA a couple of times n seems to think he is now s**t hot at tuning.

We'll known for blowing up engines. He isn't highly rated in the midlands at all (Yasir) babybhp.

another 3 week wait for them to arrive! Parcelforce, to be expected. They smashed up a set of headlights I bought for another car last week too. Looks like the box had a good kicking or something.

After waiting for my climair wind deflectors, they arrived. I ordered 2 piece for the front, they arrived in 4 pieces (smashed into bits!). Super wound up as I waited ages for these items. My local Honda man came up trumps though, as they know me and usually give me a discount they also post small parts through my door so I got my steering wheel cover delivered. Saves me a 4 miles round trip.

Could do with a set of vtis fan blades imo..

Finally got my friend to give me a hand fitting the steering as I didn't have those star keys to remove the screws. Excuse the wheel it is slightly grubby as we done a couple of other things on the car too. Had that awful squeal from the rear brakes, every time I would touch the brakes there would be an almighty high pitched squeal. After looking at the rear pads, I could see they didn't have the anti squeal/vibration shims. Typically most pads usually come with these built in or some sort of coating. After removing the rear pads from the caliper, it was evident that they plastic coating had all deteriorated away. For a quick job, just whacked on some copper grease which sorted the squeal out for the time being. Plenty of meat on the pads so seemed a waste to put on new pads onto an old disc. These will probably get changed in the future as a set (pads and discs). Wheel goes well against the Skunk 2 black rep gearknob. Will give the wheel a good clean and refurb the stitching soon, probably change the gear gaitor too for a red stitch leather itr style one. Much more enjoyable to drive with this set up of gearknob and steering wheel.

I remember reading the thread for the build up of this car, the guy was that anal about losing weight he even stripped unused/un-needed wires from the loom!