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1.8 Aerodeck from Finland (10 years of ownership)


Dexter
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looks like this is a common problem we need to find the solution to this!

What you're describing is axle tramp!  

 

What is axle tramp exactly? Axle tramp is when a wheel moves up and down very very violently, with such force that it actually leaves the ground – like a car hopping. A problem with putting power down to the wheels, worse than torque steer. It is caused by the axle rotating slightly with the wheels then springing back repeatedly.

 

Unfortunately I'm not aware of much in the way of a cure! Every VTEC Honda I've owned has done it though! So I'm not sure it's related to any particular suspension set up!

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I think that problem is related to civic front suspension somehow. Because really every civic I have owned have suffered the same thing. It's somehow the combination of front suspension movements, engine moving and all that combined with wheels hopping. 

 

Changing some variable, like engine mount stiffness might stop the bouncing when frequency with parts bouncing is different. With EF it calmed down with new front shocks and springs. And in MB I only suffered the problem with sticky tires (Toyo T1R). With my deck the problem was worst with winter wheels and wet road, but with stickier tires and the effect is much less noticeable.

 

Also front shock rebound adjustment seems to have quite significant effect. Bouncing is much less noticeable if rebound adjustment is turned a bit stiffer. For stickier tires harder bushes in lower wishbone makes the the front end more calm also.  

 

 

NIKH25: LSD doesn't really have any effect for the thing, with even grip civic is usually anyway spinning both wheels so LSD has no work then. LSD doesn't actually know are the wheels spinning or not. It just reacts to speed/torque difference between right and left wheel.   

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NIKH25: LSD doesn't really have any effect for the thing, with even grip civic is usually anyway spinning both wheels so LSD has no work then. LSD doesn't actually know are the wheels spinning or not. It just reacts to speed/torque difference between right and left wheel.   

 

Yes, that's what I heard. :smile:

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Well glad to hear i'm not the only one with the same problem but sad to know that so many has the same! Let's hope we can work this out.

 

I've had that in a lot of cars tbh, the front end bouncing when trying to take off with high revs. It really feels like it slams the car down on each bounce, due the them being very short, with very little gap in between them.

 

Yeah it's exactly like that on mine too.

 

 


Unfortunately I'm not aware of much in the way of a cure! Every VTEC Honda I've owned has done it though! So I'm not sure it's related to any particular suspension set up!

 

Well mine didn't do this until this spring as far as i can remember... atleast not so violently. We had a long and snowy winter so it wasn't driven hard for almost 6 months.

 

Since my shocks are non-adjustable i think i'll start with the engine mounts like Noodels and Karjis suggested. Energy bits sound like they could do the trick: "Energy Suspension Motor Mount Inserts are best known for their ability to reduce wheel hop and allow high performance vehicles to put more power into propelling the car forward." Here's more info: http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/About-Energy-Suspension-Motor-Mount-Inserts.asp

 

Tegiwa has them on sale in ebay for 50 quid incl. shipping... not bad. I think i'll give them a shot, have no idea though if i can install them myself. :???:

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  • 2 weeks later...

Visited Ahvenisto race track a few days ago, was so much fun! During the day drove almost 150km around the track so in the end it started to go pretty well, here's a video of the day's best lap: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tPjdGGR9sCE

 

Can't wait to go again, love my new R888's!  [smitten.gif]

 

But i'm definitely now loving my rad fan! :evil: I don't know if it's the same with everybody else's M's but mine doesn't even turn on until the needle is about 3/4 the way up the gauge. And at that point it isn't powerful enough to keep the vtec heat down so i could only do 2-3 laps of hard driving at the most without stopping for cooling. AND when cooling down, the fan goes off way before the engine has actually cooled down to anywhere near normal temperatures... :mad:. Frustrating.

 

But that'll be fixed! I don't know what's the best way to do it, but i'm planning on something like this for future track days: get a connector that goes into the rad fan motor, attach some wires, attach a switch, attach some more wires and connect them straight to the battery. Then i should have non-stop fannage at the flick of a switch... if all goes well. :roll: It seems simple to me but this kind of custom stuff isn't really my alley so if someone has any advice or better ideas, let's hear them!

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Awesome, good stuff! I can hear your pushing it to the limit, screeching tyres!  8-) What camera are you using if you don't mind me asking, looks very good picture quality. 

 

Oh and congratulations being the car of the month!  :grin:

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Awesome, good stuff! I can hear your pushing it to the limit, screeching tyres!  8-) What camera are you using if you don't mind me asking, looks very good picture quality. 

 

Oh and congratulations being the car of the month!  :grin:

 

Thanks! It's a Gopro 1. And i can tell you the quality is a lot better (HD) in reality than in youtube. And regarding the cotm i don't think it's official yet, even though it's looking pretty good for me at the moment... :roll:

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Visited Ahvenisto race track a few days ago, was so much fun! During the day drove almost 150km around the track so in the end it started to go pretty well, here's a video of the day's best lap: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tPjdGGR9sCE

 

Can't wait to go again, love my new R888's!  [smitten.gif]

 

But i'm definitely now loving my rad fan! :evil: I don't know if it's the same with everybody else's M's but mine doesn't even turn on until the needle is about 3/4 the way up the gauge. And at that point it isn't powerful enough to keep the vtec heat down so i could only do 2-3 laps of hard driving at the most without stopping for cooling. AND when cooling down, the fan goes off way before the engine has actually cooled down to anywhere near normal temperatures... :mad:. Frustrating.

 

But that'll be fixed! I don't know what's the best way to do it, but i'm planning on something like this for future track days: get a connector that goes into the rad fan motor, attach some wires, attach a switch, attach some more wires and connect them straight to the battery. Then i should have non-stop fannage at the flick of a switch... if all goes well. :roll: It seems simple to me but this kind of custom stuff isn't really my alley so if someone has any advice or better ideas, let's hear them!

I think you can get thermo switches so that it kicks in at lower temps, you can even get a low temp thermostat to help keep the coolant flowing!  

 

Congrats on COTM, yes as Tom said, it is official! 8-)

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