philgor

http://www.autoexpress.co.uk/honda/civic/61320/honda-civic-type-r-get-20-turbo-engine?utm_source=Outbrain&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=April honda are looking at putting a 2.0 turbo in over a 1.6 turbo, and they are derteminded to make it qucker than a renault 265 megane, also looking a having a LSD and rear wheel steering....

NO See you tomorrow, early finish tomorrow then of down the pub for a spam team build. and then to the chippy for samp fritter and chip's?

congrat's to you both, and enjoy your honeymoon

forgot to say that was at trade price's aswell..

what about a honda stream, drop a lump from civic type-r in it job done, or a vti deck...

I knew you had a thing for him but is there something you want to tell us mr hatman...

hint hint tom...

i think the towbar bolt's in to the rear chassis rail's, but wether the mounting hole's are the same in relation to the rear of the car both on the hatch and the deck, i can't confirm.

my mb1 had a front anti roll bar, but as it has been said the only model that came with a rear roll bar was the mb6 vti(s), there is mounting hole's for the bar both on the chassis and the lower control arm's.

wans't an issue when i had a shaft let go on my old civic, new one didn't have a balancer on it and i didn't miss it either, just out of intrest, what did you pay for a shaft from tegiwa? £100 each the tigiwa site states hmm was able to get a shaft for mine (d16) same day delivery for about £60/70 thats' with out having to send the old one back as well, that was from the local motor factors as well..

wans't an issue when i had a shaft let go on my old civic, new one didn't have a balancer on it and i didn't miss it either, just out of intrest, what did you pay for a shaft from tegiwa?

x2, good write up Phil, it is a simple job if you have all the right tools and everything goes to plan but if you're not too sure then probably as well to get a garage on it. fortunally i had access to a workshop and lift, air tool's the lot to make it easier but as people have said, it's often easier to just put it in the garage (i had my old civic's cambelt done by a good 3rd party garage as i didn't have the time to do it my self...)

that bolt is known for not wanting to play ball, usally an airgun does win, but i think a couple of are member's are honda tech's i think they use a 3/4" or 1" gun, that's more at home in a hgv garage, the bolt is a normal left to loosen, right to tighten, some people find using a freeze spray on the bolt to shock it...

Gay chat already saved in my phone was after your personal number not ur works have you googled it yet, you'll get more than a dogging invite....

and he's back, normal service has been resumed and please google the number before calling it.......

when i did mine, (the old civic 1.6 hatch), i did both when they started to weep, brief run through of what i did, crack off the hub nut, big bar and 30 or 32mm scoket required, remove nut and soak with wd40, if it move's it's ok, if it doesn't hit with a hammer and center punch (should be an indent in the cv joint.) till it move's it should only move a cm or two. remove wheel. remove the spilt pin's out of the track rod end and the bottom ball joint, clean up thread's and soak in wd40. remove caliper+carrier as one unit, hang out of the way. and disk as well to make life easier now put the steering in the lock so it pushes the track rod end out, take the key out to engage the steering lock. get a socket on the track rod end and a breaker bar and crack it off, (if it start's to spin put a jack under the track rod end ball joint and jack till it just starts to take the weight of the axle stand, but still touching it and it should play ball and come undone) now the bottom ball joint is the same crack it off, if it spin's, jack under the bottom arm, (as jacking any where else will take weight off the ball joint, as we want as much force as possable on it to stop it spinning) now give the the hub a couple of smack's at the side of where the ball joint's go through, to free the ball joint's out of the hub. the track rod end should be easy to come out and will show it. the bottom one is a bugger to do, i found that a couple of smack's to the bottom arm and then using a long bar try to lift the hub up using the top arm and spring as a fulcum point's. if not try again, it will come out eventually. once out pull the hub away from the joint and swing it out of the way, now cut the boot off and clean as much grease as you can off, (glove's as a must, cv grease is an ass to clean off) now IIRC the cv is held on using a spring clip so a couple of hit's with a hammer should pull it off, but watch out as you don't want to pull the shaft out of the box. now clean the shaft and c.v. joint of any exess grease, and slide the new boot on as far up the shaft as you can along with the small clip to secure it. put a bit of new grease in the center of the c.v. joint and line up the shaft and joint and then us a soft hammer (copper etc or a lump of wood to stop any damage to the joint) to hit the joint back on. now smear some new grease over the brearing in the joint, and work the joint to work the grease in, now slide the boot in to position with the joint and secure the small clip in place. now pack the rest of the grease in to the boot and pull it over the joint. secure that clip in to place, and as the haynes manual would say reverse to reassamble but use the jack under the ball joint's to ensure that the ball joint dosen't slip when tighting up, use a torque wrench where possable and remember to indent the cv joint nut to stop it moving. hope it help's in some way, i'm now off for a kfc....

i'm sure one of our prevous member's had s13/14 wheel's as winter wheel's, it was a french regestered RHD (EX uk) aerodeck in silver...

and it's also sold as well..

Just checked tom post count this week and its,,,,,,,,,,,,, 0 you what.... no post's all week!

dunno, i've still got the old mirror casing's should i change my mind, still i'll see what it look's like eventually....

doh, it's been a long day, and no i still have this one and no more of them...

just a little something, i was planning on posting this yesterday, but the laptop threw a hissy fit, ending in re-installing window's wa getting ready to use on it... well on the 08/04/12, i bought this very car, and it's been one hell of a journey to get here, it's been with me through thick and thin, from jobless to employed again, i've not given it much love over the past year, but plan's are afoot (VTIS kit) and but as well know money make's the world go round, and i ain't getting regular enough work, (24hrs last week) as for the vtis kit, it's gonna go PB as looking at mr brown's car at the week end with the vtis kit on it make's it look really good. and now i have PB mirror's from kink43, (from knight's car origionally) i think i can pull it off. but this year i'm gonna do my best to change that, but it gonna take time..

i must be lucky, i'm over quaified to work there....

what about upgrading from a mb3 to a mb6? or is the insurance a killer on it for you...

I can get it pushing 200bhp for a grand. Swap top end to b18 gsr, then swap bottom end to b18. Job done Edit: just noticed its your first post Get and ebay 12 volt electric supercharger, a motorworld cone filter, some ebay fuel magnets, you could be pushing 20 ga-zillion horses for under £100. Ps these horses are the ones normally found in lasagne from supermarkets. so how many fuel magnet's should i use to get to 250bhp in my b18c4....