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It almost seems old fashioned to create a build thread these days on the age of social media (one of the worst things that happened to the car community is the 2382834 facebook groups full of scammers and people asking the same questions over and over - but thats a rant for another day). I always find they are a great thing to do, if for nothing else for my own benefit to remember what I did previously 🙃 also found lots of great gems of info already on this forum - and more to discover im sure A bit of backstory - I've been bitten by the Honda bug after buying a 2010 Honda Accord with a K24Z engine - I'd originally intended to get something as a cheaper, ULEZ compliant run-around (I don't live anywhere near a ULEZ but sometimes have to drive into them for work) after getting bored with a non-ULEZ diesel Mercedes that i'd owned previously. I then discovered the scene for those cars, and good they look with the right modifications. I love it to bits but it's heavy, and the modifications you can do are somewhat limited by it having the less desirable R40 head on the engine and the rarity of 2.4 petrol, manual examples in the UK. Most buyers bought a diesel version (it was peak era of buyers being encouraged by the government to buy a diesel - how the tables have turned). I only know of a handful of others in existence and even fewer are modified. They are popular in the USA so some tuning parts are available over there but it often results in expensive shipping, import duties and long waits for things to arrive, and no chance to get anything second hand as most sellers aren't willing to ship internationally. Me and my father in law have been looking for a project to do together for a while as we've reached the end with most of our other projects (mostly just repairs and upgrades to our other cars) - initially I thought maybe a restoration project but we went to a car show recently and saw lots of cool JDM cars and thought that it might be an idea to do something along those lines. I have always been interested in a K-swap of sorts anyway and as I know quite a lot about Hondas and K-series engines from modifying my accord a plan was formed.. Initially I started looking at the usual suspects for a K-swap like an EG, EK, etc but we missed the boat on getting one for a good price and even rotten examples are changing hands for more than £2000 now, so I started digging into more unusual choices. After speaking to an acquaintance he mentioned to me that the MB civic might be a good place to look as it shares a lot of parts with Civic EG and Integra DC2, two now (to me at least) unaffordable cars but with great aftermarket support. I also looked at a few more leftfield choices like a really high mileage Honda CR-Z (came to the conclusion the subframe was rotten) and a Honda logo (too much fabrication). The MB/MC seems to be the last affordable 90s Honda, so it was now or never. I found a low mileage MB2 for sale. It was a 1.4i model, completely base spec, but that didn't matter for our purposes. In fact, I was quite interested because it didn't have a sunroof, and I've had nothing but grief with sunroofs in the past letting in water and making the car smell like an "old man's ball sack" (as my fiancée succinctly put it), and the low spec didn't really matter anyway for what we were going to do. Because of the low mileage (56,000) and original looking condition, including what I believe to be original dealer plates and stickers, I thought this could be a promising lead on a shell. It's very late for an MB2 - March 2001 on a Y plate - I've seen EP/EU civics rolling about on older W and X plates so they must've been sold at the same time - it would've looked and felt incredibly dated by comparison I imagine! The pictures weren't great as they were clearly from an auction (you know the ones I mean with the car photoshopped badly onto a showroom backdrop) I arranged with the seller dealer to go and see the car (near Bradford by the way - the stereotypes are alive and well) and when we arrived I was told the car wasn't available as there was "a problem with it" and it was parked at his house (undoubtedly this is why it was auction in the first place). Whilst being annoyed at him, I explained that we wanted to buy the car as a shell anyway and asked what was wrong - some kind of overheating issue - so we went around the corner to have a look at it on a driveway. The car looked fine although very dirty, and the sills/bodywork etc seemed to be solid other than normal age related surface rust and mileage genuine as the seats look almost new. The bodywork was unfortunately a bit tatty with various dubious repairs and perished rubbers but it's to be expected for the price/age. I took it for a quick test drive - which was a particular highlight as the prospective seller lit up a cigarette while I was driving around - without asking permission might I add - but other than the rising temperature everything seemed fine, so we agreed a price - so I drove it to the nearest petrol station, bought a bottle of radiator sealant (it seemed to be losing coolant) and poured that in, along with some water, and then drove it 1 hour home with the windows open and heater blowers on full to try to make sure I didn't break down on the M1. The car made it back fine although the temperature was climbing when stopped in traffic, it went down again when on the move. Here's the only picture I have of it at the moment: The current plan is basically to do a K-swap with a K24A with mild upgrades (K20 oil pump, 50 degree VTC), and an EP3 civic gearbox. We would love to build a boosted car eventually, but lets get the basics done first. As it's a heavier (by 90s standards) car and K24s are much cheaper these days, it seemed a better choice than a K20. In terms of styling i'm not really sure at the moment - probably try to keep it OEM+ for sleeper factor although not full sleeper - the wheels will definitely need to get changed as it's currently running 175 wide 14" tyres, budget brand that were getting on 10 years old (can confirm - they have no grip whatsoever). Watch this space 👀

Is anyone headed to JDM JAM at Donnington? https://www.donington-park.co.uk/2025/may/jdm-jam The Broons are booked up for it 😎 looks like it's going to be a good day

Hey people I had a few questions about the D15Z8 motor and using a D16Z6 head. First, the big connector on my D15Z8 distributor is a 7-pin, not an 8-pin like the OBD2 on a D16Y8. So, does this mean I can use the distributor on a D16Z6 head swap? Second I have taken off my oil pan and I have seen that on the bottom of the engine it says P2A does this mean this motor is a D16? And last if I use the Z6 head on my motor do I need to have an adjustable cam gear to make it work and how do I need to set it in degrease to make it work.

Finally getting around to a build thread for my third car It all started on a dull early may day. A Friend of mine messaged me, asking if I needed any parts from her MB4 before she scrapped it. It had been sitting on her drive since she her daughter had been born. I said to her, "let me know what the scrappy offers, and i'll chuck £50 on top and come grab it", knowing that the d16w4 powerplant in this could replace my lathargic D14 in my MB2 The next day me and a mate collected it, threw some trade plates on and ran up to my workshop. Even with the old 4 speed slush-box, and a years neglect, the MB4 walked away from my MB2 on a straight bit of road. Once we arrived, my friend parked the car up and then headed home. I then stood and had a smoke, looking at this car having a "Wangan midnight" esque moment, seeing the colour of the Sicilian Red paint for the first time. Plans had changed. (see attached image) Rust and engine work: First I got the car up on stands and made a list of everything wrong with it. The rear passenger sill and inner arch passed the good old screwdriver test, however the driver's side failed miserably, along with a few places around the front jacking point, and front inner arch. Out came the grinder, welder, and some conveniently shaped and cut sheet metal that I would be using to patch these big holes. This was a steep learning curve, as I have only ever done agricultural welding, and never thin bodywork. Once the rust was dealt with next came the auto box - I had never planned to keep this gearbox, so the hunt for an s20 close ratio box began. During this time, the auto box, torque converter and PRND lever were all disposed of in an appropriate fashion (Thrown into a skip as fast as humanly possible🤣), meanwhile, the engine was suspended by a ratchet strap around 2 on the gearbox bolts, and a random 2x4 i had laying about across the wings (See attached) Whilst the box was off, I decided to replace the rear main seal, sump gasket, and clean out the oil pickup tube. A few shiny parts were fitted during this time too, including an oil sandwich plate with senders for both oil pressure and temp, HKS oil filter, TTV flywheel and an exedy stage 1 clutch. Once I sourced a box, the new mounts were fitted up and after a copious amount of faffing around the engine and box were in. (I wish I had an engine crane!!) I altered the wiring on the PRND plug to disable the inhibitor switch, as well as the reverse lights. I finished under the bay by rebuilding the distributor, replacing the plugs and HT leads. I also added a bus bar to the firewall as my battery was going to be boot mounted. I am using a Janspeed 4-2-1 manifold, a smashed out OEM cat shell and a Skunk2 megapower exhaust system. I have a Whale pen15 air intake as well. Interior: This car had a creme interior, which I knew wouldn't survive me daily driving it. I quickly tore this out, installed a load of sound deadening and the various wires i'd be needing for my ICE setup, then fitted a black carpet and VTI "bus seat" interior. I mounted the battery and circuit breaker in the spare wheel well, as well as a power distribution block. this would be needed when I got around to building the boot and fitting my 3 amps. I finished the interior off with an oil pressure and temperature gauge set, a fire extinguisher, and an old school pioneer flipout headunit + DVD player. Exterior: The exterior is largely untouched, as it is the rare sicilian red pearl colour. This car was factory specced with a full VTIs kit and Jordan wheels. The jordan wheels went onto my other MB2, so that I could fit my 15" TSW imola wheels. I welded the rear wiper hole up, and the old spoiler holes. I then fitted an "auto spoiler", which had been preiovsly fitted to a friend's recently imported 200sx. This was an almost perfect colour match.

Hi im new to the forum proud owner of a red MB3 vtec-e from Sweden slmost rust free execpt key hole for the trunk. i was a owner of the same car for a few years back and i remember that there is an econo light that is green for better gas consumption. in my civic now the green light never appeara during drive. Only when i start up the car when all the dash lights light up and goes away. im suspecting my vtec isnt working properly ( no CEL ) i tried to rev the car out and i feel an ” light omph ” with vtec. But whats bothering me is my gas mileage sucks cuz the green light isnt working properly. i tried ohm testing the vtec. I unplugged the cable used the cable from the solenoid and ground it to body of vtec same as car metal but no readings there. I might do it wrong but i need help to test it properly and what the testing acutally means.

Hi Guys! I have a problem.I had the AC compressor changed fully charged and it still stalls when warm. IACV cleaned(but no cooling line connected) Engine:D14A8 block D16Z6 cylinder head D16Z6 intake manifold with throttle body Lightened flywheel. Thanks for the support!😄✌️

I'm probably imagining things but after hearing it in every possible intake configuration I have, the questions start rolling. Any time I'm flat on the accelerator and cross the 4500/4600 rpm threshold, the sound very clearly changes tone, not in any way same as a real VTEC, but still in the same kind of sound. It also sounds funny and conspiracy-y because 4600rpm is where peak torque is produced on the D14a8 haha. Still, this is no way a serious post, more like a gimmick for fellow D14 owners to try and find it in their cars and confirm it, have fun lol

is it possible to change a 1.6 sohc (shows up to 9k rpm) dashboard with a 8k dashboard (no eco light)?

Hey, people I have looked around on the internet about my question but I can't find someone talking about it. I was wondering about fitting a Honda Civic EK sedan 6 or coupe sport exhaust on a Honda MB3 from 2000. Does anyone know if it will fit? I have also looked into an MB3 exhaust system but only the rear muffler costs 280 and up. Any information about this is welcome. Thank you!

Hi! Does anyone knows what this round black thing is?

Hi all, So I can confirm aftermarket seats, without cutting frames or welding mounts to car, are completely possible. If you have read my before method with the universal frames this way is a lot easier and more cost effective. After 3 months of research I found a company called Planted Technology, they produced made to order seat sub frames for many cars. I emailed them to ensure my car was not an EK or an EG. I measured up the cars holes and got back the details of the closest fit frames they make. The Honda Accord 4th & 5th gen have the same interior as the MB3/MB6. I took a risk bought the frames and they do in fact directly fit. I admit it was a bit of a fiddle as they had to come from America so may have been slightly warped or bent on delivery, never the less I got them in as seen in the image below Here is a link to the main page, it would better off ordering them from GSM performance Planted Technology https://www.plantedtechnology.com/products/planted-seat-bracket-honda-accord-4th-5th-generation-1989-1997-passenger-right GSM performance https://www.sportseats4u.co.uk/product/planted-honda-accord-bracket/ Things to consider, these frames do not come with threads. M12 Nuts will be needed to fit seatbelts, M8 Nuts and bolts to fit seats to rails or frames, washers highly recommended

Hey there, I downloaded the Civic manual as I was looking for the bolt sizes and torque requirements for fitting. the LCA bolts are 14x1.5mm but it doesn't say what length they are? I need bolts for the compliance bushing that bolts into the chassis. picture below does anyone know the length of these bolts ? Kind regards

Hi everyone, Thought I'd write up a post to help a few people out. Spent 2 hours researching this today. It is possible to fit after market seats in an MB model civic without a tailored/specially fitted subframe. So for all of those that would like a sportier seat, or some racing seats, this is how you do it and what you need List of parts: Seat (of your choice) Universal side mount rails Base mount conversion rails (you will only need these if you are buying seats with base mount/bottom fitting only) How to install seat seat: Remover factory seats and rails from car Remove factory rails from factory seat install universal side mounts to factory rails ( some bolts may need to be removed or cut off) put factory rails back into car with universal mounts attached Install base mount conversion brackets to side mounts install seat to base mount bracket If you have a seat that is side mounts only you will not need the base mount conversion bracket. you can skip step 4 and install the seat directly to the universal side mounts. The great thing about the universal side mounts is that you have a lot of choice in how you can position your seat. meaning you can have more lean in the seat. be higher up or lower down. this is all depend ending on the side mounts you buy and the amount of holes available. List of parts and seats I used to make this possible: Seat - Sparco R100 - https://www.demon-tweeks.com/uk/sparco-r100-seat-7000253/ Side Mounts - Sparco Steel Side Mounts - https://www.demon-tweeks.com/uk/sparco-steel-side-mounts-s-s004902/ Base mount conversion - OMP Base Mount Conversion Brackets - https://www.demon-tweeks.com/uk/omp-base-mount-conversion-brackets-omphc0-0660/ Hope this helps anyone still trying to figure out how to do this.

Hello everyone, I’d like to share with you all, a purchase I’ve done via Facebook marketplace, of some OEM Honda MB/MC headlight covers. Bought them from Anthony Vickers, super nice dude who isn’t a scam like you see very often these days. Covers were packed very good so no damage at transport from the UK to the Netherlands thank god! Really stoked about these as you never see them! I like rare stuff so these will look nice in the collection for the car! Cheers!

Hello everyone :) I have a Honda MB6 and I would like to know what I have to do in order to fit the ITR DC2 96 (114.3x4) wheels in the MB6. Would be extremely grateful if someone could help me out Thank you

Hello :) So I've already read some topics in here about the recommended suspension and the most popular opinion is the mg zs 180 shocks. I'm from Portugal so how can I find that suspension and where are there legit deals? If there are also any more options feel free to give them, thank you!

Hey everyone I had my Honda civic MB3 for over a year now but I wanted but put a Bee R rev limiter in de car for some pops and bangs but I have a stock ecu with a 26Pin 16Pin and 22Pin connector of a D15Z8 engine. So my question is it possible to put a Bee R in this car and witch wires do I need to use to make it work. I have looked online for information put I cant find any with this connector type. All of the video's online that I have seen are different wire ring and different connectors.