Dave

Can you send an email to administrator@civic5.com Chris with the email you registered with mate.

Here's the codes mate. Found them in an old topic in the Electrical section. You can jump the 2 wires on your diagnostic plug. Then read the number of flashes you get from the light. A long flash reads as a count of 10. short is a count of 1. so 3 long and 2 short would be 32. Then you can look up what code it is. That will tell you what part needs replacing. This is the list of error codes I have for the entire Honda range. Long flashes = tens, and short flashes = single units. 1 Oxygen Sensor "A" (Primary) defective circuit or unplugged / defective sensor 2 Oxygen Sensor "B" defective circuit or unplugged / defective sensor 3 Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP Sensor) defective circuit or unplugged /defective sensor 4 Crankshaft Angle Sensor (CAS) defective circuit or unplugged/defective sensor 5 Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP Sensor) mechanical problem / disconnected piping 6 ECT Sensor (Engine Coolant Temperature) defective circuit or unplugged / defective sensor 7 Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) defective circuit or unplugged/defective sensor 8 TDC Position (Top Dead Centre Sensor) defective circuit or unplugged / defective sensor 9 CID Sensor (Number 1 Cylinder position) defective circuit or unplugged / defective sensor 10 IAT Sensor (Intake Air Temperature) defective circuit or unplugged / defective sensor 11 CO pot 12 EGR Lift Sensor (Exhaust Gas Recirculation) defective circuit or unplugged / defective sensor 13 APS Sensor (Atmospheric Pressure Sensor) defective circuit or unplugged / defective sensor 14 IAC/ISCV Valve (Idle Air Control/Idle Speed Control Valve) defective circuit or unplugged / defective sensor 15 Ignition Output Signal missing or defective ignition output signal 16 Fuel Injector System defective circuit or unplugged / defective fuel injector 17 VSS (Vehicle Speed Sensor) defective circuit or unplugged / defective sensor 18 Ignition Timing 19 Automatic Transmission Lock Up Control Solenoid Valve defective circuit or unplugged / defective solenoid valve 20 Electrical Load Detector (ELD) 21 VTEC Solenoid Valve defective circuit or unplugged / defective solenoid valve 22 VTEC Oil Pressure Switch defective circuit or unplugged / defective oil pressure switch 23 Knock Sensor (KS) defective circuit or unplugged / defective sensor 30 Automatic Transmission Signal: "A" / SEAF / SEFA / TMA or TMB 31 Automatic Transmission Signal "B" 41 Primary Oxygen Sensor – Heater circuit malfunction on D16Z6, D16Z7, D16A2 engines 41 Linear Air Flow (LAF Sensor) heater malfunction on D15Z1 engine 43 Fuel Supply System defective or malfunctioning fuel supply system 45 System Too Lean or Too Rich malfunction in the fuel monitoring systems 48 Linear Air Flow (LAF Sensor) defective circuit or unplugged / defective sensor 54 CKF Sensor (Crankshaft Speed Fluctuation) defective circuit or unplugged / defective sensor 58 TDC Sensor 2 (Top Dead Centre) defective circuit or unplugged/ defective sensor 61 Oxygen Sensor, Heated - Sensor 1 (Primary) high voltage, low voltage, or slow response 63 Oxygen Sensor, Heated - Sensor 2 (Secondary) high voltage, low voltage, or slow response 65 Oxygen Sensor Heater (Secondary) malfunctioning or defective oxygen sensor heater 67 Catalyst system Efficiency Below Threshold malfunctioning or defective catalyst system 70 Automatic Transmission malfunction with the automatic transmission controls 71 Cylinder 1 Misfire or a Random Misfire a condition is present that is creating a cylinder misfire 72 Cylinder 2 Misfire or a Random Misfire a condition is present that is creating a cylinder misfire 73 Cylinder 3 Misfire or a Random Misfire a condition is present that is creating a cylinder misfire 74 Cylinder 4 Misfire or a Random Misfire a condition is present that is creating a cylinder misfire 75 Cylinder 5 Misfire or a Random Misfire a condition is present that is creating a cylinder misfire 76 Cylinder 6 Misfire or a Random Misfire a condition is present that is creating a cylinder misfire 80 Exhaust Gas Recirculation insufficient flow detected 86 ECT Sensor (Engine Coolant Temperature) circuit range / performance problem 90 Evaporative Emission Control System leak detected in the fuel tank area 91 Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor low input. 92 Evaporative Emission Control System insufficient purge flow Post is here >>> https://civic5.com/forum/topic/8966-reading-fault-codes/

Should be able to get the code with that how to no probs mate. I'll update that broken link too with the fault codes when I get a chance too, thanks for letting us know.

Hi Chris. That looks like your air con belt is missing mate. Has the air con been removed from the car, as I know a lot of owners have done this in the past in the quest for weight saving. You should have your normal radiator on the left (when standing in front of the car looking into the engine bay) and the air con one is a smaller one to the left. If you PM me your email address I'll look into the activation email problem and get that sorted for you. Make sure it's the same email address you registered with

I take it you just hard wired the existing wires from the fuel inertia switch? Could be a fault with the wiring, although If it was me I'd fit a new inertia switch mate for safety.

Best bet would be to refurb the calipers mate. You can dismantle them, remove the piston and clean it up and refit it with new seals. Then either clean up the sliding pins and regrease them and fit new rubber boots if needed. This will free them up a bit. The pads will always be against the discs normally, although shouldn't be binding.

Yeah, it's a tricky place to route an airfeed from due to the fogs/radiator/aircon rad being there mate. Not sure if there's some way of routing it down from there then once past the fogs route it back up to where it comes into the bay normally? Maybe use a large diameter pipe in behind the bumper in that bit you've circled (to catch max air), then scale it down a bit to pass under the fogs and then scale it back up to normal size after that?

wow! Now that's how to get the interior clean!

No probs Fred, glad to help.

@hondasport There ya go Ringo

Hi Frederik. The fitting of the head unit is really tricky. Even putting the standard one back into the slot can be hard. With your new head unit having the extra wiring adapter, there isn't enough room for the head unit to go fully back. So what you need to do is try and tuck the wiring down one of the gaps at the rear. Not changed a head unit for a long time in these but from what I remember there should be a gap at the right side rear of the slot? You need to feed the original wiring and connector down into that space, then you should be able to get the head unit to slip back into place. It will still be tight, but it will deff go in. Another thing that can stop it is some head units have a heat sink on the rear of the unit. Depending where it is it can sometimes be inline with the rear radio support bracket right at the back of the slot in the dash. Bes bet here is to get a hack saw blade or similar and cut that bracket out. It's fiddly but worth getting rid of as it's serving no purpose and will give you more room at the rear of the head unit. The clock is indeed meant to be lit, and is a common fault where the small bulb has blown. You need to take the head unit out to get access to this, so best to replace the bulb before you refit the stereo. The flickering lights whilst dimming will be dirty contacts on the dimmer switch. These are pretty much sealed units so a replacement switch is the only way to fix it. I should have some of these in stock if you need one Hope this helps mate, and welcome to the club. Dave

Eh? I haven't seen a nomination from you mate?? When did you post it so I can check the logs and see what's happened? Who did you nominate and I'll add it to the poll bud.

Can you not modify the current air feed and route it so you can use that? I'm the same, don't like holes cut in bumper for air feed or losing fogs.

Any more entries for this month?

dogg1210 is selling a vtis kit mate

Liking this one! Sounds like a fair deal too.

Wow! Nice wee bit of kit that for the usb mate! Wonder if that would fit the standard head unit in the FN2, as it doesn't have an output for usb That's why I fitted the double din pioneer. Is that kit model specific? Good work on the armchair so far mate! And that tables gonna be handy at meets/shows!

wow! Those new rims are sexy as! Looks totally amazing mate, good choice!

Unlucky Phil, but at least the Audi driver fessed up (although no matter what he did, he would have got the blame anyways as he ran into the back of you). How bad was the damage? Doesn't look too bad in the photo. Sturdy old bus the CRV! Mind claim your excess back too mate!

Lol like that, poor man's teg! Essentially what you'll be making is the Integra SR (I think?) As it used almost the same engine as our vti/vtis's but with a more aggressive ECU .

Lol, have done it for you both! Lol Was a test for me to see how much I admin stuff I can do via my phone........and this new forum rocks!

That's the project thread you've included mate so all good. If you can both edit your posts to include a photo of the car you're nominating that would be cool

Sounds like you've been busy! I'd check with Honda to see the correct part number for the filter mate then either show the nu.ber to your parts place so they get you the right one, or get it from Honda. Good you got the fresh oil in, sou ds like she was needing it. That exhaust was well shot eh! To stop the new one catching, find out what bit is catching. Then loosen off the clamps and turn the exhaust about a bit to see if you can get it sitting further up into the car. Usually takes a bit of fiddling to get the sitting bang on. Great tip with the caliper seal!

Wow! You got a car with a nice bit of history there mate! Is the shell still in good nick? Always loved the DC2.

That's a tidy MB3 mate. I like the 1.5 as they're still nippy to drive but are also amazing on fuel! Best of both worlds!