Dave

@UnicyclingTom lol he has indeed! Has a lot going on at the moment though He'll be back! lmao

Oh, one things is decided! When we do eventually sell Roxy, she will deffo be getting replaced with either an A3 Quattro S-Line or the TT Quattro S-Line. Decided I'm deffo not buying another Honda as I'm a bit disappointed with the newer ones tbh. Not a patch on our older Civics.

Still not done anything much to her lately, but have removed the HKS RSX induction kit and reverted back to OEM filter box. She was going in for a service at Honda so though if I'm paying for a new air filter, I want one bloody fitted! lol Decided not to refit the HKS, as I'm at a stage now where I prefer her to be OEM. The noise was amazing, and addictive which was part of the problem! Because it sounded so sweet, every time I drove it I would be holding the revs just to hear it, so constantly in VTEC! lol Had a really bad effect on fuel consumption, to the point I was struggling to finance the fuel tanker behind me! Lucky if I was getting 250 miles out of a tank, so decided that reverting back to standard would probably change my driving habits! Posted the HKS up on Civinfo, and had it sold literally 15 mins later! These things are mega popular! So HKS is now gone. In other news, it was pretty close to the wire for Roxy being traded in! I took a fancy to an Audi TT Quattro TD S-Line! Was a 60 plate, and looking at the specs was what had me interested. The 0-60 mph time is around 7.5 secs, so only roughly a second off the pace of the TypeR! But it returns (if not canning it!) 60mpg! Road tax £130 compared to TypeR's £295, and it was really comfortable to be in. No harsh suspension, although being the S-LIne it has slightly lowered and uprated suspension. Handled great too! But we eventually decided against it. Money wise, was going to be losing out big time on Roxy (managed to get the garage up from 5 and a half grand trade in up to 7 grand (I should have been in cars sales!!) but still had around 6 grand to find to get the TT. Wasn't gonna be worth it. So we decided today that Roxy will stay, and she's going to be getting a set of 17' after market wheels (not sure which yet) to make her a bit better for the daily drive. The 19's will get sold. Might be going ahead with the MeisterR's after all! We will see.

Cars looking sweet mate! Fairly coming on with that bridge eh! Not been over that way for a while, looks like it's gonna be finished soon. They reckon they'll finish it well ahead of schedule too!

Couldn't agree more Simon! C'mon Dave, get yer finger out and get some photos up of her!!

Wow! the wheels look like brand new! Going to look sweet with those fitted mate. Think the EK9 strut brace is the same as the oem MB6/MC1 strut brace?

Just saw this in the metal for the first time today, looks really clean!

Wow! nice list of parts! Best thing you'll ever buy is those MeisterR's mate! Can't wait to see those fitted! Wish i could see your face the first time you take her for a drive with those fitted cos it's like driving a totally different car! Did you buy them through the forum? She's going to be one sweet MB3 with all the new bits, looking forward to seeing this!

loving the look of this! Those wheels look spot on and nice one on the new rubber.Sits really sweet! Like the white writing on them, harks back to what I used to do years ago! Love it! Be interesting to hear how the Falkens are for grip in the dry/wet mate.

Can you send an email to administrator@civic5.com Chris with the email you registered with mate.

Here's the codes mate. Found them in an old topic in the Electrical section. You can jump the 2 wires on your diagnostic plug. Then read the number of flashes you get from the light. A long flash reads as a count of 10. short is a count of 1. so 3 long and 2 short would be 32. Then you can look up what code it is. That will tell you what part needs replacing. This is the list of error codes I have for the entire Honda range. Long flashes = tens, and short flashes = single units. 1 Oxygen Sensor "A" (Primary) defective circuit or unplugged / defective sensor 2 Oxygen Sensor "B" defective circuit or unplugged / defective sensor 3 Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP Sensor) defective circuit or unplugged /defective sensor 4 Crankshaft Angle Sensor (CAS) defective circuit or unplugged/defective sensor 5 Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP Sensor) mechanical problem / disconnected piping 6 ECT Sensor (Engine Coolant Temperature) defective circuit or unplugged / defective sensor 7 Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) defective circuit or unplugged/defective sensor 8 TDC Position (Top Dead Centre Sensor) defective circuit or unplugged / defective sensor 9 CID Sensor (Number 1 Cylinder position) defective circuit or unplugged / defective sensor 10 IAT Sensor (Intake Air Temperature) defective circuit or unplugged / defective sensor 11 CO pot 12 EGR Lift Sensor (Exhaust Gas Recirculation) defective circuit or unplugged / defective sensor 13 APS Sensor (Atmospheric Pressure Sensor) defective circuit or unplugged / defective sensor 14 IAC/ISCV Valve (Idle Air Control/Idle Speed Control Valve) defective circuit or unplugged / defective sensor 15 Ignition Output Signal missing or defective ignition output signal 16 Fuel Injector System defective circuit or unplugged / defective fuel injector 17 VSS (Vehicle Speed Sensor) defective circuit or unplugged / defective sensor 18 Ignition Timing 19 Automatic Transmission Lock Up Control Solenoid Valve defective circuit or unplugged / defective solenoid valve 20 Electrical Load Detector (ELD) 21 VTEC Solenoid Valve defective circuit or unplugged / defective solenoid valve 22 VTEC Oil Pressure Switch defective circuit or unplugged / defective oil pressure switch 23 Knock Sensor (KS) defective circuit or unplugged / defective sensor 30 Automatic Transmission Signal: "A" / SEAF / SEFA / TMA or TMB 31 Automatic Transmission Signal "B" 41 Primary Oxygen Sensor – Heater circuit malfunction on D16Z6, D16Z7, D16A2 engines 41 Linear Air Flow (LAF Sensor) heater malfunction on D15Z1 engine 43 Fuel Supply System defective or malfunctioning fuel supply system 45 System Too Lean or Too Rich malfunction in the fuel monitoring systems 48 Linear Air Flow (LAF Sensor) defective circuit or unplugged / defective sensor 54 CKF Sensor (Crankshaft Speed Fluctuation) defective circuit or unplugged / defective sensor 58 TDC Sensor 2 (Top Dead Centre) defective circuit or unplugged/ defective sensor 61 Oxygen Sensor, Heated - Sensor 1 (Primary) high voltage, low voltage, or slow response 63 Oxygen Sensor, Heated - Sensor 2 (Secondary) high voltage, low voltage, or slow response 65 Oxygen Sensor Heater (Secondary) malfunctioning or defective oxygen sensor heater 67 Catalyst system Efficiency Below Threshold malfunctioning or defective catalyst system 70 Automatic Transmission malfunction with the automatic transmission controls 71 Cylinder 1 Misfire or a Random Misfire a condition is present that is creating a cylinder misfire 72 Cylinder 2 Misfire or a Random Misfire a condition is present that is creating a cylinder misfire 73 Cylinder 3 Misfire or a Random Misfire a condition is present that is creating a cylinder misfire 74 Cylinder 4 Misfire or a Random Misfire a condition is present that is creating a cylinder misfire 75 Cylinder 5 Misfire or a Random Misfire a condition is present that is creating a cylinder misfire 76 Cylinder 6 Misfire or a Random Misfire a condition is present that is creating a cylinder misfire 80 Exhaust Gas Recirculation insufficient flow detected 86 ECT Sensor (Engine Coolant Temperature) circuit range / performance problem 90 Evaporative Emission Control System leak detected in the fuel tank area 91 Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor low input. 92 Evaporative Emission Control System insufficient purge flow Post is here >>> https://civic5.com/forum/topic/8966-reading-fault-codes/

Should be able to get the code with that how to no probs mate. I'll update that broken link too with the fault codes when I get a chance too, thanks for letting us know.

Hi Chris. That looks like your air con belt is missing mate. Has the air con been removed from the car, as I know a lot of owners have done this in the past in the quest for weight saving. You should have your normal radiator on the left (when standing in front of the car looking into the engine bay) and the air con one is a smaller one to the left. If you PM me your email address I'll look into the activation email problem and get that sorted for you. Make sure it's the same email address you registered with

I take it you just hard wired the existing wires from the fuel inertia switch? Could be a fault with the wiring, although If it was me I'd fit a new inertia switch mate for safety.

Best bet would be to refurb the calipers mate. You can dismantle them, remove the piston and clean it up and refit it with new seals. Then either clean up the sliding pins and regrease them and fit new rubber boots if needed. This will free them up a bit. The pads will always be against the discs normally, although shouldn't be binding.

Yeah, it's a tricky place to route an airfeed from due to the fogs/radiator/aircon rad being there mate. Not sure if there's some way of routing it down from there then once past the fogs route it back up to where it comes into the bay normally? Maybe use a large diameter pipe in behind the bumper in that bit you've circled (to catch max air), then scale it down a bit to pass under the fogs and then scale it back up to normal size after that?

wow! Now that's how to get the interior clean!

No probs Fred, glad to help.

@hondasport There ya go Ringo

Hi Frederik. The fitting of the head unit is really tricky. Even putting the standard one back into the slot can be hard. With your new head unit having the extra wiring adapter, there isn't enough room for the head unit to go fully back. So what you need to do is try and tuck the wiring down one of the gaps at the rear. Not changed a head unit for a long time in these but from what I remember there should be a gap at the right side rear of the slot? You need to feed the original wiring and connector down into that space, then you should be able to get the head unit to slip back into place. It will still be tight, but it will deff go in. Another thing that can stop it is some head units have a heat sink on the rear of the unit. Depending where it is it can sometimes be inline with the rear radio support bracket right at the back of the slot in the dash. Bes bet here is to get a hack saw blade or similar and cut that bracket out. It's fiddly but worth getting rid of as it's serving no purpose and will give you more room at the rear of the head unit. The clock is indeed meant to be lit, and is a common fault where the small bulb has blown. You need to take the head unit out to get access to this, so best to replace the bulb before you refit the stereo. The flickering lights whilst dimming will be dirty contacts on the dimmer switch. These are pretty much sealed units so a replacement switch is the only way to fix it. I should have some of these in stock if you need one Hope this helps mate, and welcome to the club. Dave

Eh? I haven't seen a nomination from you mate?? When did you post it so I can check the logs and see what's happened? Who did you nominate and I'll add it to the poll bud.

Can you not modify the current air feed and route it so you can use that? I'm the same, don't like holes cut in bumper for air feed or losing fogs.