dr_broon
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Everything posted by dr_broon
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gonna wait a week or so to get some miles on it before giving it some beans.
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straight swap I think - he would have said if any had been needed cheers
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picked her up last night, had a few gentle miles last night and a calm drive to work this morning, and so far I'm pretty happy with the results - everything just seems a lot easier. some numbers - revs are: 2.2k in 4th @ 30 3k in 5th @60 i think that to a certain extent the teg flywheel has offset the negative effect of the longer 5th - it now seems easier to accelerate from low revs. bit of an issue with selecting 1st sometimes - the honda dude thinks it might just be the new 1st gear, but will keep an eye on it and is gonna give everything a check over tomorrow.
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sweeet really looking forward to gettin her back and having a spin.... will be a video to show the results
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yup - will have had more (negagtive) camber before when the front was lower, which will have made turn in sharper.
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yup
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Dunno - it's all still in bits at the minute Out of interest.. if anyone's interested - $660 for the kit with 4.785 differential ring gear, countershaft first gear, two first gear needle bearings, collar ring and 4.785 countershaft http://www.autodynamics-honda.com/jdmhop804fid.html
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Soz Jamie - I meant the understeer was less when it was lower at the front (and worse now...) so the handling's worse than it was when the front was low, but at least I can get over (most) speed bumps without the mud flap scraping on the ground, and the wheel doesn't rub on the arch as much
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on the understeer thing, when i had the spacers fitted to my eibachs to lift the front, i found it didn't turn in as well, and understeered more
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on the understeer thing, when i had the spacers fitted to my eibachs to lift the front, i found it didn't turn in as well, and understeered more
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not a bad shout - will see what me honda mate comes back with.
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Naz mate, you're a star really appreciate your help... the first gear is £155 on lings website, and $100 from the states!! shame the box is in bits and i need it asap
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So this is where I was reading about the 1st gear - seems a little different from the other quote (though M-factory replied at the bottom of the thread) http://www.ek9.org/forum/transmission/29835-s9b-final-drive.html - 2nd post: "When installing a 4,785 FD You will additionally need the 1st gear (with roller bearings, hub and friction damper) from this gearbox (s80 98+spec ITR gearbox)." what do you think he means by hub? I spoke to the lad doing it to let him know about the 1st gear, and he asked if the synchros will fit - is the hub something to do with the synchros? when I read it first I assumed that he meant the collar that the bearings sit on. man I wish I'd googled "S80 final drive swap s9B" a month ago
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Just been reading this too Naz - cheers for looking into it bud I'm assuming that because the 1st gear ratio's the same for the s80 and s9b (in fact all hydraulic b series) I'd only need one for the countershaft and not need to replace both. Also, just seen your PM - cheers fella, looks like this is the way forward hope that it doesn't take long to get the part coz my car's blocking up my mates garage
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this..
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okay.. problems with the frankenstien gearbox s80 final drive into S9 box. new 5th gears go in okay and Naz was right about needing the collar, but the problem is that 1st and maybe 2nd won't fit over it! anyone got any ideas? ta
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i used washers can't remember how I set mine up tbh... deffo used washers, but cant remember which side of the arm the washers went.
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well, the dice have been cast - dropped the car off this arvo, and the box should be out tonight, then into the workshop to get the bits done to the box
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so what kind of spacer is it that's needed to b slotted in naz? sort of like a thick washer?
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I've got my rear shocks set to the softest they will go, and fronts are roughly 60 percent (from memory) I have had it set higher at the rear but it made it understeer more. had the fronts harder and it made it turn in like a demon, but bangs over bumps / potholes. have had the fronts softer (when the missus was preggers) and it did bounce a little, but not bad really - no where near as bad as with standard shocks - that was dangerous now i'd say that it bumps rather than bounces, if that makes sense? I bought the spacers off a guy on here who'd had them made for his car when he had the same combo (S88 HON) - they're machined from aluminium and sit between the ring that sets the position for the spring cup and the cup itself.
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yup... that's the combo... rather low at the front, but tip-top handling with the eibachs i think that being able to adjust the koni shocks is great to stop the bounce, but when you get it set right, the progressive spring rate means that it's not too bad to live with... firm but fair this is how the front used to look (before I got some spacers to raise it up a bit):
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The 266bhp and 540nm torques jaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaag
dr_broon replied to johngreen537's topic in Other cars
wow John - that looks like it really shifts! must be awsome for munching miles -
Dawns Civic Aerodeck Updated 28/5/13
dr_broon replied to crazzzydawn's topic in Honda Civic MA/MB/MC
looking tasty as always looks ace with the headlight covers -
if you've got the optional honda alarm, it's probably the same one that's on mine. It's a cat1 alarm / immobiliser and it's made by a company called Hamilton and Palmer. the control unit for mine is under the driver seat - it's a black metal box bolted to the floor. it's a pretty good alarm - loud as fook... might be worthwhile giving H&P a call to see if you can just get a new fob. I had to get a new siren for mine and the tech guy I spoke to was really helpful. this is what the siren in the engine bay looks like: and this is the key fob: this is their website http://www.hamilton-palmer.co.uk/ and they're based in kent if you need to go see them
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sounds good buddy