dr_broon
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Everything posted by dr_broon
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@noodelsam I remembering that UK 99 spec is the same as jdm as well?
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Purple power!
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- honda engine b18
- honda civic mc
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Just thinking actually, it might work out cheaper for a repair by a local auto radiator company if you can find one.. These are some before and after pics of my heater bypass pipe (new one wasn't available).
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I'd be surprised if it was different to the rover 400 / mgzs one.. But it's not guaranteed to be the same. Would be less of a risk if it were cheaper https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-GRID003155 https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-JEF000080P Might make finding a second hand one easier though. One thing I notice is that this one is only for the rover 400 / 45 / Mg ZS and not the 200 /ZR. This makes me think that the ek one will be different from the mb, but again, that's just a hunch. Would anyone else know for sure?
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Shiny. ...
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- honda engine b18
- honda civic mc
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No worries mate. The knob is a razo one. I had one for years but the leather went all tacky from the car being damp, so I got a new one recently. The trim is the standard vti trim I think, although there may have a carbon effect one as well.
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I've just taken a few photos that might help understand where things are.. Clips on each side towards the front. If you put for fingers in at the front, but at each side, you should be close enough to release them without stressing the trim. These locating tabs at the back mean you need to lift from the front These are the slots the locating tabs go into
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To right... The way up is on the a1 dual carriage way, then a fast flowing A road - about an hours drive - and had the wife and kids in the car. Bit scary really. 4 rainsport 5's are on there way.
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It's worn all the way round, but worse there. I think that it might have been low pressure for a while without me noticing (on the rear), and maybe made worse by needing the camber /alignment sorting out. Dunno.. Just pleased it didn't seem to blow when I was driving!
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- honda engine b18
- honda civic mc
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So this happened today.. Somehow between driving for an hour up to muy mam's, and driving back again....
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It's mainly the socket that looks dodgy - I don't think that it stood up well to the chip going in and out when I was trying to get the map to work years ago. I've got a zif socket in there now, but think that it needs a bit of a going over.
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I suspect it's the soldering of the components for the chipping - it's not the prettiest job... Better than I could have done, but that's not saying much..
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Light still on so probably ecu needs attention before going for mapping.
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Going to try hooking it up again today - if there's no eml, then it's probably okay for mapping.. If not, then the ecu must need some more electronic loving.
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Would love to get a full spray done so that the looks reflect all of the work that's gone in to the chassis, but it'll have to wait. Will look at getting some smart repairs done to pick up the odd chips and scratches.
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Yeah, claying will be fine just worried about getting it machine polished.
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I should add that this was just to check the ecu is ready to be mapped properly - was always going to put the P9 straight back in.
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So, now I've got a working car, I had a chance to try the p28 ecu after getting the soldering of the socket checked. Plugged it in, and what do you know... No engine warning light... Hurrah! So I think to myself, not only has the issue where the ecu just had a solid light and wouldn't start been fixed, the last time I burned the P72 base map to the chip I must have got to the end of disabling various sensors that don't exist.. Mint. Took it for a drive, carefully at first, and all seemed fine. Gave it a short burst of beans up to maybe about 6 or so, and still okay. Turned around to come home, took it up to about 7 - 7.5k, and it red lines... Must just be the map. A minute or so down the road I stop at some traffic lights, then the Idle drops right down. Start driving again and notice that it's on limp mode with the eml on. This is probably about 5 mins or so if driving. Get home and try and pull the code, and no flashes - just a solid light. Lob the P9 back in and all's well. Anyone got any clue?
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The sun shining on it is making me take photos... I'd love to get it mopped, but I know it's been done a few times in the past, so not sure how many it can take. Even just itching to clay and wax it.
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- honda engine b18
- honda civic mc
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Quick perv pic
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- honda engine b18
- honda civic mc
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If you get your fingers under the front (where the cubby hole is) you can prise it up and pop a couple of clips either side. It should then just lift up from the front and out.
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I can't speak from my own experience as I went from no bar to an mgzs one, but I remember folk installing the mb6 bar onto their aerodeck or hatch without a bar, and reporting improvements. People upgrade from the mb6 one to the MGZS one, so if the increase of a few mm is worth it, then going from none to some surely will be.
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- honda civic mb3
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The door cards do look clean without the fabric.
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Good to see your civic Ricky - looks smart.
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MG wheel looks decent - like the honda badge swap. Loving the use of forza to try out mods quality plan
