dr_broon
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Everything posted by dr_broon
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To right... The way up is on the a1 dual carriage way, then a fast flowing A road - about an hours drive - and had the wife and kids in the car. Bit scary really. 4 rainsport 5's are on there way.
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It's worn all the way round, but worse there. I think that it might have been low pressure for a while without me noticing (on the rear), and maybe made worse by needing the camber /alignment sorting out. Dunno.. Just pleased it didn't seem to blow when I was driving!
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- honda engine b18
- honda civic mc
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So this happened today.. Somehow between driving for an hour up to muy mam's, and driving back again....
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It's mainly the socket that looks dodgy - I don't think that it stood up well to the chip going in and out when I was trying to get the map to work years ago. I've got a zif socket in there now, but think that it needs a bit of a going over.
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I suspect it's the soldering of the components for the chipping - it's not the prettiest job... Better than I could have done, but that's not saying much..
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Light still on so probably ecu needs attention before going for mapping.
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Going to try hooking it up again today - if there's no eml, then it's probably okay for mapping.. If not, then the ecu must need some more electronic loving.
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Would love to get a full spray done so that the looks reflect all of the work that's gone in to the chassis, but it'll have to wait. Will look at getting some smart repairs done to pick up the odd chips and scratches.
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Yeah, claying will be fine just worried about getting it machine polished.
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I should add that this was just to check the ecu is ready to be mapped properly - was always going to put the P9 straight back in.
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So, now I've got a working car, I had a chance to try the p28 ecu after getting the soldering of the socket checked. Plugged it in, and what do you know... No engine warning light... Hurrah! So I think to myself, not only has the issue where the ecu just had a solid light and wouldn't start been fixed, the last time I burned the P72 base map to the chip I must have got to the end of disabling various sensors that don't exist.. Mint. Took it for a drive, carefully at first, and all seemed fine. Gave it a short burst of beans up to maybe about 6 or so, and still okay. Turned around to come home, took it up to about 7 - 7.5k, and it red lines... Must just be the map. A minute or so down the road I stop at some traffic lights, then the Idle drops right down. Start driving again and notice that it's on limp mode with the eml on. This is probably about 5 mins or so if driving. Get home and try and pull the code, and no flashes - just a solid light. Lob the P9 back in and all's well. Anyone got any clue?
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The sun shining on it is making me take photos... I'd love to get it mopped, but I know it's been done a few times in the past, so not sure how many it can take. Even just itching to clay and wax it.
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- honda engine b18
- honda civic mc
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Quick perv pic
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- honda engine b18
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If you get your fingers under the front (where the cubby hole is) you can prise it up and pop a couple of clips either side. It should then just lift up from the front and out.
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I can't speak from my own experience as I went from no bar to an mgzs one, but I remember folk installing the mb6 bar onto their aerodeck or hatch without a bar, and reporting improvements. People upgrade from the mb6 one to the MGZS one, so if the increase of a few mm is worth it, then going from none to some surely will be.
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- honda civic mb3
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The door cards do look clean without the fabric.
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Good to see your civic Ricky - looks smart.
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MG wheel looks decent - like the honda badge swap. Loving the use of forza to try out mods quality plan
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I never found any in my search. Just had a look on their UK website and it doesn't look like they've got them in stock. There's a few places do custom shocks that are adjustable for classic cars etc, and the prices don't seem too bad. Just wish I'd found them before buying the current ones. I think that I've still got the original top mounts in, so thinking of replacing them and see if that makes any difference. Anyone know if they're the same as DC2?
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Finished the job this morning. Put the little rubber feet on the console instead of the rest. Lined the catch up with blue tac Marked the position, then used some really short screws. Then glued the felt in.
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Nice one. The armrest is from the 03-07 accord. Out of interest, here's some pics of the accord one in an accord. The accord console is a much chunkier piece of kit.
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- honda engine b18
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Cheers Ali
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Cool that's the type of thing that I was thinking about - I'm thinking of getting something like this made up from aluminium by an engineering company - about 10mm is probably what I would need.
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Feel like I'm getting there slowly but surely. Seat swap today, and feels like a big step. Love the difference these seats make - hold you in so much better, and even seems to make the ride less harsh / bouncy.
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I'm having a similar puzzle at the minute @mihaiantony. I've also got Eibach pro springs, but with Sachs standard shocks. I've had eibach springs for years, and used to run them with koni adjustable shocks. They were always too low for my set up with 17" wheels because of the width and had a lot of issues with rubbing the arch liner (do you have 17" wheels on?) Years ago, I bought some spacers off an old member on here which lifted the spring cup on the koni shocks up a bit to solve the problem, but this could only be done because the height of the koni shocks could be adjusted. The spring cup on a standard shock is in a fixed location. My koni shocks died (as did my original eibachs) but koni no longer make the shocks for the m civic, which is why I've now got oem spec shocks. I miss my konis though. The MGZS stuff seems to be a good solution, but I know there's been members on here in the past have had odd results. You're right to be looking at the 120 springs for matching the weight, but I'm not sure about mixing the 180 shocks. I'm sure @noodels would be able to help out here. One thing I'm wondering about is whether I can get my shocks modified to lift the spring cup up by a small amount, or whether a different top mount could have the same effect - I don't think I need much more clearance maybe 10-15 mm. If anyone else has any thoughts it'd be useful to hear.
