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Dave
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Everything posted by Dave
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The hubs for non ABS equipped cars don't have the ABS ring on them, whereas the ABS ones do. You're doing away with the ABS so think you'd get away with the non abs ones? Hopefully someone can confirm this on here. The 1.4/1.5 and 1.6 all used the 4 x 100 hubs, just the 1.8 that was different. The rear bearings/hub come as one unit if I remember right, so you just change the complete hub rather than faff about trying to fit bearings to it. The front on the other hand will probably need a press to push them home, although there are ways to fit them without a press. Are you changing back to 4 x 113 hubs? If not, I would just keep the hubs you have unless damaged (obvs the rears will need changed due to the bearing/hub coming as one unit) And don't worry, any question is complicated if you don't know the answer! So ask away!
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The cam cover in DD is gone. It was a spare one I bought that was already painted that colour when it arrived mate. Tbh, the paint job on it wasn't the best, but it was only ever going to be a temp one while I got her own one done. Once I finished her own one and fitted it, she now looks like this!
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I always get these two which are the original formula: For all brush on: BRUSH ON CLICK HERE And the spray one (which still needs working in with a brush buts gets into wee nooks etc: SPRAY ON CLICK HERE
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Just you leave ma gunk alone you, or Gayle will be having words! lmao Deffo recommend it mate, it's awesome stuff. I've done every engine bay I've ever owned with it, brings em up lovely, then just a wee polish and job done. I usually go over the hoses/black plastics/airbox with Back to Black on a cloth
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I had the 1.4 MA8 pre-facelift Civic M and tbh, it was a nice revvy little engine and the car felt pretty nippy. Mine was also an auto so not sure iof it would be quicker/slower on take off than a manual 1.4. To be fair, I doubt the 3 secs difference would be that noticeable in the real time world as the 10.6 isn't quick by any standards lol. Be aware that the "vtec" in the 1.6 isn't performance orientated vtec found in the B series, it's more for fuel efficiency. Brakes are easy enough mate. Only thing to be careful of is the abs sensors, don't damage them. Never heard of the abs unit being damaged by pushing the piston in. As long as you have the resevoir cap off, you can push the piston back on easily. Gearbox wise, both the hatchback and Aerodeck use the same gearbox so you're ok there.
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That key you have is a Rover style key then going by the photos there of the the Rover one. As far as I'm aware (although its Rover and Honda we're talking about so who knows! ) this was the one area Honda and Rover differed when it came to the Rover 400.Honda Civic marriage. Honda went with the IR Valeo system, and Rover went for the one that uses radio waves (which was actually much better as you didn't need to be standing pointing the blooming fob against the glass to make it work lol). Both fobs looked similar though, being the one on the left you posted the pic of below: That single button one you have isn't one I've seen on either the 400 or Civic before. I'm wondering if the fob can't be fixed/can't get a key chipped using it, if the alternative might be to get a key set/matching fob/matching dome from Civic that's breaking? You could easily change the locks (a pain I know but might be the only alternative) and swap the dome etc over. You might also need the matching immobilizer box from the same car I think.
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- honda civic ma
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^^^^^What he said!
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Jeese, so many little things and Honda did with individual cars to make things complicated years done the line! Glad you got that sorted mate! Regarding getting a key chipped, I'm pretty sure they need the key that has the chip so they can clone the chip? Not sure if they might be able to do it from the fob, always worth a try. Thanks for writing this up though as all this info is useful right now and even more so in years to come for these cars.
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- honda civic ma
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Flicking through the original brochure for the car is awesome isn't it! Love the original books for these. Best thing for degreasing the bay, and I've been using this since the 80's (and my dad used it since the 70's!) is "GUNK". It's availabe in spray on (great for getting into tight areas) and once sprayed on, leave for about 3 mins then work with a brush. Finally rinse off then wash area with normal hot water/car shampoo and dry it all off. It gets rid of caked on oil and all sorts, really good stuff mate! Found some pics of Ruby and DD's bays after I'd "Gunked" em!
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Hmmm, I does it have full service history (or any at all). This can sometimes give you an indicator as to how difficult solving the emissions issues will be. Full history, shows engine has been cared for so emissions should be easy to fix. No history, engine hasn't had regular oil changes and emissions could be due to wear on the engine due to contaminated oil. Going by the state of the tyres, which are both illegal and dangerous, I'd wager that Civic has been very neglected so doubtful its had any servicing/maintenance done mate. Seller says gearbox is "noisy", so again, probably never had the gearbox oil changed, thrust bearing is on way out or gearbox is worn. Either way, that needs changed. Not expensive, but pia to have to do that. Sounds as though all brakes need replaced. The "front brake fluctuating" is due to the discs being thin/worn so they'll probably be warped. Easy and cheap to replace, if all the bolts come out ok. I think with that fail sheet, you have a lot of wiggle room to haggle the price down lower. Expecting £300 for it is a wee bit cheeky unless body wise it's mint. There are a few folk on FB do transporting so you could search and get quotes for getting the car trailered to you. Thing it, can't see that being any less that £200, so factor in that it makes it an expensive car with buggered running gear that can't be driven on the road until more money is spent on it. If it was me in your situation regarding the distance etc, I'd be walking away from it. You can get these with an mot and running fine for around £500. Yes, the 2001's don't come up as often, but they are out there mate. And with an mot, least you can drive it home.
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Haha, same here, and mine is kinda covid related! We went and got our vaccine on Tuesday night. They said some folk are fine with only mild symptoms (basically same covid symptoms) and some get floored by it. Yup, I'm the lucky git who has been floored! My temp has been through the roof, and I've went from feeling freezing cold (to the point it actually hurts) to being so hot I get really angry and pee'd off as I can't cool down. Felt sick, got constant sore head and eyes, sore knees sore feet. And for some reason, a really excruciating pain in the bottom of my back. Can't lie on my side as it hurts so much. Oh, and can't sleep. Either too hot to sleep or too cold, and when I do try to sleep, it's like my mind wont switch off and has forgot how to actually sleep! Said to Gayle, if the 2nd vaccine causes the same symptoms, I won't be getting it. Not putting myself through this again.
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Yeah, there are so many seams hidden behind trim on these cars. I'm hoping that's where this latest leak is from lol
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Yes, that's what was thinking. Could be the key that's causing the immobilizer issue and not the alarm itself. Always difficult to sort faults out with immobilizers/after market alarms.
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Must be driving you nuts the delay in getting Tubs2 back!!
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Good shout mate, as things like this will be coming a common thing on our Civics now with the age of them. I did notice that a bit of seam sealer near the scuttle panel/front wing on DD had broke down a bit when I was fixing the scuttle leak. Now that I've fixed that, she's done the legendary Civic M fault of top corner of roof lining now slightly wet near windscreen! Didn't know there was seam sealer under the roof rails so will get them off and check it all out and reseal where needed.
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Hi Peter. Really strange problem your MA Civic has got. I had an MA Civic years ago, and the fob is like the standard one all MA/MB/MC Civics have (Valeo type) with two buttons so that deffo points to yours being an aftermarket one. As Simon said, if you have a look under the bonnet and see if you can see the siren as this will have the make/model on it somewhere. Good idea to disconnect the battery, which might if you're lucky reset the problem you're having with the central locking. If a replacement fob can't be had, the only alternative is to have the alarm removed. These Civics have a built in immobilizer from the factory anyways (that's the green flashing key light on your instrument panel). I'd probably take the drivers side door panel o0ff and look for any wires that have been added to the central locking solenoid. It might be one of them has come loose/corroded? On a side note, your key looks different to the standard Civic MA key too? Maybe had relacement locks/key set at some point in it's life? The standard key has a black rubber like top to it with the H logo on it, not a plastic one. Did you get any other key's with the car?
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Suppose it's a big heavy car with all the safety equipment it has on board. Diesels probably the best option, plenty torque.
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Haha, triple garage would be awesome!! I'd only end up filling it with more cars though! Was browsing a certain auction site last night looking at MK3 Ford Cortinas of all things...........got a real hankering for owning one again! Never gonna happen unless we win the lottery, but bloke can dream ay! Deffo be worth it mate just to keep her away from the worst of the weather when you're not using her.
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- honda civic mc1
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Sad but true mate. Only way forward for car lovers is to say to hell with the cities and move out to the countryside! Drive what you want out in the sticks!! lol
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Yaaaas! Exciting times mate! Hope she passes!
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Just noticed the 40/35 split front to rear. Does the car have different profiles front to rear as standard?? Know the BMW's sometimes have wider rears but never seen the profiles being different?
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I would stick with the 40's Jake as the 35's will be like rubber bands. Problem with them on 18's/19's is they give little to no give, so end us with a really harsh ride. Also because the sidewall is so small, we found it was even more prone to being easily damaged (as Gayle found out on the Civic5 run with Roxy my TypeR lol) 40 is still a very low profile, so will give you decent handling with very little sidewall movement, but should still have enough give to maintain a decent enough ride. Strange the website is recommending a lower profile though? Wonder if there's maybe an issue with scrubbing?
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What an awesome first Aerodeck to have bagged yourself. Very well known club car mate, you got good one there! Will be following this to see where you go with it mods wise, whats the plans? @KiNK43 is indeed one of the most helpful and enthusiastic Civic M owners you'll ever meet! Jake's been a member here for a very long time and is also part of the Civic5 team too. I hear he's such a n ice chap he's decided to just give me his VTiS to keep! Hahaha, I wish! To be honest though mate, all our Civic5 members are the most helpful bunch ever. I'm so looking forward to the day where we can have another Civic5 stand at some of the jap shows. Really miss the banter!
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Infact.... Ali's old Accord
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The Accord generally is a bigger Civic. I like them, in all generations. TypeR is lovely, but heavy on go-go juice. I'd be surprised if the TypeR is ULEZ compliant though? All the Accords of that Gen can be found pretty cheaply now I think. We've had a few different Accords in Civic5, from the very early pop up light version that Krzys had (think he might still have it) to the generation mentioned above, through to the later ones such as Simons Mrs and Ali (burbleboy) had. If you can stretch to the later versions, I'd deffo have on e of those! Have a look at Mrs Broons Accord Tourer or Ali's modded 4 door to see how good they can look modified. I still see Ali's one going about near where I work, looks awesome!
