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Everything posted by Dave
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Super clean behind the skirts mate, you haven't got any worries with rust on that one. Great to see one in such great shape! I'm liking the new skirts, are they fitted to the original MB skirts? Does look good with them! Liking the other detail changes too, more subtle and looks all the better for it mate.
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Watch yerself, that kinda thinking can end up being expensive! lmao Good thing about the circuit boards is there isn't any components on them other than the switch and the two bulbs (so no transistors etc) so think the wiring should be easy enough to figure out. Worst that could happen is wire them up and it blows a fuse if it aint right. With the diagram, and looking at the tracks on the boards, should be simple enough to work out how to wire them (or work out if they can actually be wired.) I went a bit further in that i took the heated window image bit from button1 (it pops out, and then you can separate it from the coloured bit too) to see what it would be like stuck on button2. It looked kinda ok, the white bits from the shape of the car on button2 showing through and showing the outlines of the heated rear window. Bit parts of the heated window werent visible due to the white car shape on button2. So i sanded button2 back gently, and it goes clear. So you could sand it clear, mask out a rectangle same size as the heated window, spray button2 black on outside and white on inside and this would make the heated window image stand out perfectly. I know, I must have too much time on my hands lmao! Just wanted to see how things were made tis all
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Hi Mate @dr_broon. It's bad news I'm afraid I got a couple of the switches in and dismantled them to see if it's possible to fit the parts from the heated rear window/hazard switches into the buttons of the lower down A/C and Air Recycle buttons. I've took some pics of the exploded switches and how I tried to swap the bits over. The switches dismantled: We'll call the heated rear window switch "Button1" and the Air recycle one "Button2" Although the circuit boards are almost the same size, the actual switches on them are completely different. The Button1 is a bulkier one (see pic below), but with less pins. I thought I might still be able to fit it inside the casing of button1 inside button2 though so went ahead and tried it. There were bits of plastic that needed removed from inside the button2. Time to get the tools out! After cutting out the innards Unfortunately, when I tried to fit the board from button1, there was no way it was going to work. The rear of the button1 where the plug goes was too bulky compared to what had been there previously. The Switch inside was also too bulky, and the bulbs were in totally different places. Button2 has two casings, and one slides inside the other. The board from the button1 was fouling the casings so they couldn't move freely. I even tried cutting the rear underside half of the casing away, to see if this would allow movement but no luck. Examining the boards, I noticed that the button1 has a larger switch with less pins (only 5 on the plug socket on the rear of button). Button2 has a smaller switch with 6 pins, and has 6 pins on the plug socket on rear of button. Looking at the printed circuits, both are wired differently. I'm thinking though, if you can check the wiring diagrams for our cars, and work out what wires are what (3 or 4 of the wires on button2 are for the bulbs, but go through the actual switch where as on button1 they wires for the bulbs don't go through the switch.) you might be able to rewire button2 to use as heated rear window/hazard switches. Would be a case if identifying the wires, cutting off the plugs from the heated window switch and the new button2 and getting another plug from old tubs wiring for the air recycle switch and A/C and see if you can rewire the plugs to work? Think it might be doable, although I'm no expert! But as for swapping insides around, it's a no-go I'm afraid mate. If you need any buttons, I have tons of them from our old Civic5 parts dept that we used to have. Just gimme a shout. Dave
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I'll maybe nip out to the garage later mate and grab a couple of switches and see if there's a way to fit the hazard type ones into the air con type ones.
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lol, DD's heaters get so hot we cook! Have to turn them down, even in this very cold weather.
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That would be awesome if you can swap the insides of the buttons round mate! Would like to move my two down beside those buttons as I think it would look nicer with all the buttons together. Liking the idea of the tablet, should look sweet. Only thing you'll need to watch is its proximity to those to dash vents as they could cause an issue when blowing hot? Mind you, you can flick the wee button between the vents to blow cold all the time.
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The colour totally changes it eh! Looking good mate! You no thought about setting up your own wrapping place?
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Christ, how was that still running!! Just shows how good the Honda engines are!
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Sweet! Will let you know how DD's goes mate then will contact the company to see what the prices will be like for getting them done. Hopefully it will be a reasonable price so the prices each will be decent for folks to buy. If it's gonna work out that they're too expensive to reproduce that way, I'll just put up a really detailed how to guide on how to make your own. Would be nice though to finally be able to buy a part like this off the shelf for our Civics. I think there would possibly be a good demand for them from Rover 400/MGZS owners too, seeing as the MGZS has entered modern classic status now.
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I'm going to be finally doing my double din dash conversion on DD. Just waiting on the cage coming so I can then set about starting things off. Got two spare centre consoles to work with so will try and photograph the progress. Know it can deffo be done as its been done to another MB in the past so hoping this turns out really sweet. Will be fitting a double din android head unit (no cd player as I don't use them anymore, only usb stick and phone. Also, DD has Alexa Auto so can have any tune/radio station playing that I desire so deffo no need for CD's lol What I'm wondering is, if all goes to plan, what would the interest be in buying ready made centre console conversion kits? If mine turns out good enough, was going to look at seeing how much it would cost to have it reproduced with 3D printing. Then figure out a price from there? Let me know your thoughts guys.
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I've got a stock of all spare MB/MC switches mate if you're needing any. Why you moving the heated window/hazard switch down there? You fitting guages or going to try a double din conversion? I did think about going up the way instead of down for the double din I'm planning (ordered the cage so i can get the sizes right) but not enough room going up.
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Nah mate, no wiring or connectors there. Would have been a small separate loom for the seats themselves. Could probably get one from a rover 400 but needs to be before the BMW takeover as the wiring/connectors changed to BMW ones after that.
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They are indeed for the heated seats mate (which ours never got! Looks like it may have just been the rover 400 that had the option of heated seats as I can't see it listed in the options for our civics anywhere, hence we wee left with the blanking covers.) The pic above shows DD's dash. I fitted the switches as we were gonna get the seats heated, but then decided against it as she wasn't going to be a daily. Now that she is a daily driver, we're thinking about getting the heated seat elements fitted as the leather is uber cold on the bum on a winters morning!
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Yeah, PB were an absolute joke in the end! Why would anyone want to pay to use their own photos, its nuts! Think my PB account is still active but never been near them since they decided to charge. Best place to store your own docs/files/photos is on your own pc and backed up on your own external hard drive. That way, you never loose them
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- honda engine b18
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What he said!! ^^^^^^^ Get yourself signed up mate, would love to see your mb6 in the forum. Plus you'll have access to our downloads (Official service manual, Original Brochure and our popular How to guides in Word document format) and other areas of the forum that you won't be seeing as a guest.
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This is sooooo good seeing Tubs coming back to life in Tubs2! Won't be long now mate!!!
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Not seen the ones with male heads on them mate, image they are similar in design to some car locking wheel nuts (only much much smaller). Think those will be a bugger to get off by the sounds of it.
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Know the star shaped bolts your on about mate. I've got the screwdrivers to fit them here, but ithey are small so it's like you say, if they are siezed then only option might be to grind them off with a grinder or if space is limited, some kind of metal file? The seatbelt bolts are always a total pig to get off!
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I would do as Jake said mate, best way to get it running and then get the timing spot on.
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Could itr be the ignitor in the dizzy has been disturbed during all the fitting/trouble shooting? Normally these throw an eml but could be. Know Ruby would start ok, run fine but then suddenly lost power and cut out. Had to wait ages to get her to start again then same thing would happen.
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Wish i could see this but I take it the images are on your Google drive? Keeps asking me to sign into Google, but even when I use my sign in it won't show the photos mate. Sounds like you've been mega busy with her!! Looking forward to seeing what you've done. I've not done anything at all to Mindy lately, too wet/cold outside and her MOT is now expired so will be waiting till better weather arrives before getting her booked in for it. Don't think I'll need to do anything to her (fingers crossed as she was driving perfect up until the mot expired at start of December.) so hoping by mot time my new garage will be built!
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Poor old Tubs, really loved this car and has been to so many Civic5 meets I've lost count! At least she's getting to live on in the new shell
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Do remember the 1.4 D Series in my pre-facelift MA8 Civic was really rev happy! Bit more so than the 1.6 D series I'd say. Not sure how it compares to the D15 VTEC-E as they were more biased towards economy, although have been in a D15 and it was a quick wee car. Not sure if my 1.4 revved more with it being an auto, but always felt like a quick wee car back in the day. Think the other thing missing from the sport interior is the carbon effect dash inserts, think it was VTi/VTiS only that got that, but other than that and the arm rest like you say the Sport interior is pretty much the same as the VTi.
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So looking forward to seeing this back on the road mate! Once the lockdowns/covid is under control will need to pop down to see you in DD. You still wanting to swap the rear boot side trim panels from DD and Tubs (mine have the holes in for adjusting the suspension)? Mind let me know a price for them other trims we talked about too. Will get some cracking photos of Tubs 2 and DD together
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I would replace the battery due to age and the fact it's been totally flat before as they always seem to end up going after that. Once the new battery is on, test with engine off to see what the voltage is. Next, test it again with the engine running (get an assistant to press the accelerator gently for you or use the throttle on the intake manifold) and see what voltage the meter shows when engine is reving at approx 2000 - 2500RPM. Should be at least 12.7 V but ideally a lot more than that. Would test DD's but and let you know what it should be as I just fitted a new battery to her but my multimeter blew up (don't ask! lol)