philgor

this is brilliant, it seem's to my that most of the time when a deck get's stripped, it to donate it heart and soul to an eg or something. but this is brilliant, it's the only track car i know of that could carry all of it spare's with it like wheel's in the car......

the mgf / tf and rover 100 share the same stud pattern, and are a really wierd stud pattern, very few option's for them.

i think the weather add's to it it was really foggy up here earlier, took a few pic's and it look brilliant, but they got croupted when i tried to transfer them from phone to cumputer...

and just to confirm the 150000 mile's here's the photo's... 150000 down, 850000 to go

IIRC, from the hayne's manual. the difference's between the box's are only electrical, to do with the operting the box, all of them are essentally the same 4sd with a lockup torque converter, but i think the 1.5 vtec-e has slighly longer ratio's. i think i had the s1la in my mb1 (1996 1.6, d16y3 nonvtec) and that took some abuse it snapped a drive shaft, some WOT launch's, it would see the red line just about every day, and it never missed a beat, never needed fluid top up or change, and the oil was still red and unburnt from the day i got it to the day it went.

the X-type also rot's quite well, usally found on one's fitted with towbar's, and yes, underneath the jag x-type is a mondeo, they suffer all of the same trait's, brake pipe's (most mondeo's have had the front to rear pipe's replaced at 5/6 yr's old), noisey diesel's, rear caliper's, clutch's and DMF's (looking at 1k to do a clutch/flywheel/starter). but they don't seem to suffer the same injector fault's that the mondeo seem's to get.....

# Quarter tank of fuel! have you seen how many mile's he's got to the tank so far

hit the big one this morning, 150000 mile's, if the fist 150k was anything to go by, the 2nd 150k to 300k should be fun...

New stretch is bliss! That's just one long episode of VTEC though! yeah the new stretch is bliss, but i the lincoln grimsby run, some epic 90degree bend 2nd gear vtec pull. 1.5 mile hill near caistor to climb up perfect combo is 3rd vtec or 4th with iab's. some lovley wide road's to over take on, and people don't dawdle along at 45 even the truck's are at 50/55 most of the time, and NO SPEED CAMERA'S ASWELL Epic mate, sounds like paradise! well next time you fancy a trip to skeggy, instead of going along the a52, go along the a46 to cleethorpe's instead.....

New stretch is bliss! That's just one long episode of VTEC though! yeah the new stretch is bliss, but i the lincoln grimsby run, some epic 90degree bend 2nd gear vtec pull. 1.5 mile hill near caistor to climb up perfect combo is 3rd vtec or 4th with iab's. some lovley wide road's to over take on, and people don't dawdle along at 45 even the truck's are at 50/55 most of the time, and NO SPEED CAMERA'S ASWELL

but you don't own a vtec anymore, or are you swaping the how many time's you vtec for, how many time's can i get the roof down in a day......

i alway use blueprint on mine. just seem to be spot on all of the time. and never seem to have any issue's with them.....

when in lincoln, it's a vtec free zone, but the a46 on the other hand, is a vtec paradise......

look'd on autodata, it does state that the d-series engine is interferance, but that's got to be on vtec due to the increased valve lift when on vtec.......

i'd think you would need, on top of the head, inlet (b18c4's are 2 stage vtec, rest arn't on the b-series engine...) inlet, ecu possabley... best asking on the civic life forum * other civic forum's avaible* as they are bigger, and there would be some one on there who can say yay or nay to more than just the head.... as for the hole in crank case, worst case is that the timing jumped when it let go and there hase been piston to valve contact....

from my point of view as a tester, i don't like them, but spoke with vosa at truckfest back in may. this is what they said. they (vosa) are trying to devalue the certificate so much that in the future we can say, everything is all on line etc, including the mot system. that do we really need to give you a bit of paper to say it's passed.... from the cost point of view, per mot slot, it's around 2 quid, i know not a lot, but a basic vosa approved mot bay, can be the best part of 10k a lot, and the average mot tester is on 9/10 quid hr, it soon add's up to what the garage pay's out to do a single mot at 50 quid a pop... the old mot paperwork was an expensive bit of deliverly. when the garage bought test slot's (100 miniume) vosa would send 100 pass certificate's, 200+ advisory's, and 120 fail's give or take a few sheet's. all by next day delivery from dhl. now that would cost a bomb to do, as there are around 20100 test station's in the country.... and the paper work had to be kept's safe as if it got in to the wrong hand's (think about the v5 document that were stolen a few year's back.....). and the anpr being alknowing is wrong, it only pick's up on insurance and tax, despite the anpr and mot computer system being run by sieman's, now atos. they can not get the sustem's to talk to each other...... had it before from the police, before your stopped, they know you insured and taxed, but they call again to check the mot status, along with confirming your insured to drive the vehicle... now how many time's do the police take the mot certificate on face value??? still i want the old one's back, infact, we still have shed load of blank old style document's about.....

the plain paper mot certificate, has been in for nearly a year now, they came in on the 16th october 2011, to replace the green amber and red certificate's. i'm just wondering what people's reaction's are to the "new" style mot certificate's? from the few people who i have dealt with at work over the past year have asked "where's the green one gone?" useally followed by "look's crap" i'm just wondering what people think about them, good, bad or ugly just for the record, i don't like them, look's rubbish printed on 80gsm paper, but not too bad if printed on 100gsm paper though....

so who are the other 4 then???

hard one to say, from other member's expereance's, b18c4 and a d16 non vtec. honda seem's to have built in a tolreance so that on vtec they are an interferance engine, and off vtec they are a not an interferance engine. don't take it as gospal though. get it done on time or mile's which ever come's first, and get a good cambelt kit as well. honda say that the water pump's don't need changing, that's up to you though.. as for kit's go for one of the following, genuine honda blue point (good quaility kit's for far east and jap car's) gate's power grip, (never had an issue...) as water pump's go, honda say's that the water pump's don't need changing....but it's personal choice (after seeing what can happen when valve's hit piston's....) genuine honda, (do i need do say anything else) blue point (as above) gate's power grip (as above)

hey, james, is your's on rear disk's ?, if it is have you been told about the handbrake on the rear caliper's? if you have, don't bother reading this, if you haven't, well read on..... mx5 rear caliper's are not like any handbrake caliper's i have ever come across before, down to the adjustment of the hand brake.... you do not adjust the handbrake at the 1, the handbrake lever, 2 handbrake lever on the caliper, 3 the cables'.... right i'm assuming the rear of the vehicle is jacked up with the wheels' off. at the back of the caliper, there is a 12/14mm headed bolt that doesn't look like it's doing much, it's sort off in a direct line with the piston in the caliper. remove that bolt and then use a 4mm allen key to adjust the allen key till it nip up. now slacken it so the disk turn's freely, put the bolt back in, check the foot brake and hand brake, drop the wheel's back on and off the jack's and job done...

wheel nut, 110nm hubnut, 181nm do not reuse old nut....

you can use landrover mtf as well, the honda manual also say's you can use 10-40 engine oil at a push

currantly can't afford to run 2 car's so it'll be a spair box getting the rebuild one day........

nice, could be a fun project and sideway's as well..... legal smoking rubber love it.

are you on disks' on the back as well if so check them as well, it's the shim's that sit on the carrerier and the part of the pad that sit's on it, not the anti squeal shim's that sit on the back of the pad and sit between the pad and caliper