Finch

Selling mine, I want to keep it but also want a K20 Turbo MB...

What engine did that have then?!

if its not a cast bracket you can probably bend it by hand, saves potentially smashing anything with 'omma

Being as the thread is now an inspiration thread rather than just based on the Domani chassis.. We should talk exhausts! alot of civic's in Japan run Bosozoku / Kyusha style exhausts which are a bit OTT IMHO, the US / Aus / NZ has been championing a "western" bosozoku style exhaust commonly known as blast pipes or shotgun pipes, They tuck up close to the bumper and exit at a slight angle, usually flush with the "furthest" point on the bumper (at its radius of the curve) which generally look better than the OTT type of pipes the Japanese run (Again IMO). The Civic Coupe here is sporting a Magnaflow exhaust rather than angled pipes generally seen which is tucked up cleanly. I'm planning on doing blast pipes on the MB2 project I'm about to start however I'm looking to have a vband connector right where the backbox would be and have two swapable tail pipes - blast pipes and a Jap-can type thing to be less ASBO.

If it can get me to and from work for a couple weeks, that's all I need!

Which "OBD2 Plug" are you looking for? If you mean the diagnostic port its in the cabin on passenger side next to center console If you're talking about the ECU plug, Its a bit of a farse. its a OBD2 with an OBD1 plug as far as I remember

Well I'm going to 4 or 6pots soon I will need to put spacers on but I'm going to do a fair bit of arch work soon. Rotas were my first choice as I can drive up to Driftworks and pick them up easily. Alleycats/OSR's were top choice on the Micra club after super/minilites! I do like the BM8's though...

I've looked at JR before, I've never been confident in them as a racing wheel more a "show" wheel if you get me? I do however know that James Deane (Drift Allstars; Toyo Tyres) uses them on track for sessions but if one fails they probably have spares handy.. I'll have a look at them again and see.

Yep, Tom's the one to blame, Chandlers' Deck's too nice

Thought the 1.4 Sports were MB8 and the MB2 were just the 1.4? Doesn't really bother me either way, it'll be its own car soon or later EDIT: You're correct sir! I thought all aerodecks were MC's.. Fekin Honda!

So I'm Finch! I've been here before by many names with many cars over the years but this ones the one to stay, I've never really progressed very far with a build blog as I tend to forget to take pictures! Not this time! The car has been posted once before under another name but I thought I'd start again and in a few days time when works less hectic get the DSLR out and take some decent pictures. The car is a (fairly) stock 1.4 Sport MB8 in Knighthawk Black. It has AC, PS, Alloys and Electric windows as standard and the same interior as the VTI-S/MB6 for all intents and purposes. I picked the car up in February I think it was and paid £400 with 160k on the clocks which rapidly climbed to 182k by this morning (I do ALOT of driving). I took the car for MOT on Sat and it passed with flying colours, only two advisories; Small oil leak (coming from the filter seal on inspection) and bushing on steering rack is worn. Both will be remedied in following days! In the last few days I suspected a headgasket issue due to steam coming from around the head and burbling and bubbling in the overflow/expansion tank, I did a tstat change and fluid renewell about a month ago (do it every 3 or so months). Did a compression test this morning (dry, cold start) before work and got 220 215 225 217 so I was both very pleased and very confused to say the least! I expected a really really low value somewhere though I have no loss of power or anything. So I bled the system and tada the engine has stayed cool today and the heaters were warm! though I'm keeping water with me incase! I gave my MOT tester a call and he said he'd looked at the fluids to make sure levels were good due to the small oil leak so I'm now wondering if there was an air-lock caused by him checking the water level. In the first 3 days of owning the car I had already ordered a bunch of stuff and dug-out a few bits I already owned. Bought: VTI strutbrace - £5! - Facebook / 20min drive VTI-S Lipkit - £??? - @Dogg1210 Domo-kun (45cm tall) - ¥1600 / £12~ - from my buddy who lives in Japan still DC2 Wheel boss - £6 - Fleabay "Mugen" Formula XG4 shiftknob - £5 - Fleabay (I think??) Skunk2 bonnet risers - £4 - Old stock from old work place Password JDM Engine and Bay dressup bolts - £??? - Old stock from work Goodyear EfficientGrip Performance - £200 - Kwikfit (I'll never use them again, I was just in a bind, they're thieving robbing b***ards - dropped alloys off to them as car was on axle stands. They claimed to have fitted them to the car and tried to charge me £160 ON TOP for fitting) Rover 45 Deflectors - £25 - Fleabay Owned: Defi Advance ZD Clubsport gauge set - ¥60000 / £600~ - Bought it in Japan for my S14 @ Super Autobacs VertexJAPAN 7-Star deep-dish leather steering wheel (330mm) - ¥39850 / £300 - Bought it in Japan for my S14 @ Super Autobacs Made: Few stickers - I owned a vinyl cutter until 3 weeks ago when I sold it Resistor / Fuse pack for my airbag light I got sick of the sagging headlining and door card material hanging more than the back lips of a 40year old babestation model so pulled it all out, leaving back door cards with material and the fronts without.. for now! I'm fitting the rest of the kit on Sunday will then clean her again and will dig the camera out and take some proper shots! In the next few days I'm ordering BC Racing ER's (External Reservoir), Will get those fitted along side: Hardrace front LCA's Skunk2 Upper Control arms (front) Function 7 rear LCA's Hardrace Rear Camber Arm Hardrace Rear toe arm Function 7 Rear sub-brace Benen Billet Tie bar Blue the Aerodeck 1.6 VTEC Aerodeck.. Electric everything, sunroof etc for £350

I used to work in a motorfactors we carried all the major brands k-seal, barrs but luckily never needed one. This car has done just over 182k on the stock gaskets and stuff so I think its seen its fair share of time being thrashed (not me, honest ). I'm gonna go get one tomorrow and hope it'll hold for another couple weeks until I can get a weekend free to take out the engine!

So as a few of you may know, I'm swapping to a K Series (Honda K20A, Not a Rover!) engine in the next few months with parts being stockpiled as we speak. I noticed last night a bubbling coming from the overflow tank after a pretty good day weather wise here in the M̶i̶d̶l̶a̶ Outer Mongolia... but ignored it, checked levels of fluids etc not much lower than last time I checked but put this down to the bubbling caused by the car running hot (can't rely on the temp gauge, its never really worked right since day 1 of owning the car but I'm not that bothered with the planned engine swap). Fast-forward to today, set out for my journey to work (45mins) and no warm air at all, by the time I got about 10mins out of the yak herding village I work in I heard the bubbling again and then a hissing noise. Fans are all kicked in no issues there, ran heater on hot but it was icy cold. Once I got to work I popped bonnet and noticed I had burbling in the expansion/overflow and there was the dreaded steam coming from just below the head.. I honestly don't want to f**k around taking heads off, changing gaskets and such for at most 3 weeks so I pose this question to You, Have You ever used anything in the regions of Steel Seal, Engine Seal by MCP or anything that will allow me to use the car for a couple of weeks at very very most?. I tried Barrs stop leak after hitting a badger in Dorset once while driving the Micra, stopped a bit of a leak enough to get me home but nothing enough to seal a headgasket as far as I can remember. On the upside of things Steel Seal offers a "Money Back guarantee" which is always a bonus but its £40 a bottle!! Like I said I really don't want to be f**king around changing gaskets if the engines gonna be binned or stuck on fleabay in a months time being replaced by a K20!

Sometimes.. Just sometimes I worry about you.

ahahaha my bad, been a while as I said, same shape and size for MAP though lol

yeah it runs down between the two middle runners of the intake manifold to that point from the nipple I highlighted in green

P*ss off I saw em first

Do you have the hose running between the two middle runners highlighter in this picture if not you can just plug it so no moisture and dirt and sh*te can get in, otherwise if you have a PCV Which most B16+ have just run the hose to it, it goes just underneath the manifold between two bolts Its to help with positive crankcase ventilation by bringing air from the manifold into the crank case much like how the breather hose / filter does on the camcover Back one plugged on that upper picture is *possibly* for positive pressure on cars with cruise control, but don't take my word for it its been about 4 years since I've owned a B-series, had Nissans for the last few years

A diagram for you to check out

Most of it can be done by eye, just line up everything of the same position or size, no need for paid help The hole under your finger with the smaller hole either side is for MAP sensor, TPS would be on throttlebody, You need vacuum from servo > mani (middle L pipe IIRC), small one you're pointing at is FPR, I can't remember if the B18 has a vacuum off block or not :/

Looks like it would be FPR and the one in the middle is for the vacuum off the block, one off the back should be IACV as far as I can remember too.

@Archangel if you get it done make sure the people who do it cut out any affected areas, last thing you want is someone just welding a plate OVER the rust, it'll just spread around it and then you'll have paid out for nothing.

OK, well the DC2 subframe and steering rack fit as far as I remember so HardRace should be OK

I didn't think the airbag / horn plug would have been much different, probably could have kept Honda stalks and SRS wheel. One question though... Why? Now you have to look at an MG badge!

15" clear Brembo, Wilwood, Spoon and DC2 calipers with 282 disc, should be no issues The DC2 bushings etc do fit afaik, however energy suspension make bushings for our model Civic.. Theres a topic on it here > Hope this helps bud!