Finch

I ran into a bunch of issues with my latest swap, changed to the exact same engine code as the previous engine, when I came to do a clutch change I found I'd been sent a clutch that was much different than the one on the engine, I did some searching and found there was 2-3 variations just dizzy models then there was the coilpack variants on top to deal with!!

Thanks guys, I'll be doing a side-side build on these if funds allow. Realistically I can't do any major builds on it right now I need a car for work and with the issues I've had I just needed something. Ive had 2 days off work trying to fault find and stick stuff back together! This isn't my first or even 10th engine building/swapping rodeo but this car is kicking my a*s. If I can sort out Betty in the next few weeks I'll be good to take Blue off the road to do a build; darton MID sleeved block, the lot.. Then I will crank up the boost

Well I'd started ordering turbo bits for the MB, maybe a fast deck' is a better idea

Quick question you might know the answer to... does the VTI/S kit fit the deck? I've promised myself I'll not modify it too much.. but I know deep down I will. so I'm going for OEM+ for now...

@UnicyclingTom Can I join your club yet?

So after 2 days of f**kery, I was messing around trying to figure out why I had no spark. First stage I found out I had the knock sensor unplugged and the then I monitored the rotor arm and noticed it wasn't spinning. I pulled it off to find the two cam prongs were snapped off. SO I headed out for my local breakers which my neighbor works on and found an EG3 civic, pulled off the dizzy and headed home. I bolted it all up, went it perfect and then I came to plug it in... turns out I picked up a 5 pin 2 plug dizzy.. mine had a 7 pin 2 plug connector I headed to a few other places, found a guy on Gumtree with a car a few miles down the road, and went to see the car. I found out he had an Aerodeck for sale too. £300 later and I agreed to take her home tomorrow - A 1.6 VTEC Deck' with elec windows and a sun roof! I'll be giving her a clean up; she needs a good clean, her paint on the bonnet has a lacquer peel but say hello to Blue, Black Betty's bigger younger sister. Making this a 2 car build thread

well it depends on what it is! if its IACV etc on throttle body/intake its not good for the internals, nor power! You're sucking in water into your combustion chamber! and with a half decent set of sockets and a tube of RTV from a motor factors can be fixed. One way to test is get the car running (idle) and spray water on the throttle body area with something that will do a fairly fine mist (like those hand pump garden sprayers), if the car bogs down (hear the engine audibly change it means there is a vacuum leak and its pulling water (and air) in through the crack in a gasket around the iacv etc about half hour, a razor blade and a tube of rtv and you're good. I'd allow the car to sit over night when curing sealant though! Ensures nothing is sucked in you don't want! Is there any murky/oil in the water or creamy looking oil cap? This could be head gasket If it is a headgasket or water pump you're going to need either a mechanic, now this can be £50-500 depending where you go! (Might be better to ask local say on Facebook?) or a decent tool kit, a torque wrench, the kit, a good amount on research and about 2-3 days. People say 'only takes a couple hours' forgetting its your first time or the amount of sh*t Honda bolted on to our engines!!

So everything bar exhaust and shafts are in. I expected to be clever and just drop the engine leaving the box in place, after about 2 hours d**king around I finally conceded and dropped the box and pulled shafts out. Slid the box out on its side, lined up clutch, bolted it all up, got my neighbour and dad to give me a hand getting it to the front of the car (it was in the boot ) I slid it under on its side on a plastic wheely bin lid liberated from the house 2 doors down (put it back after) and rotated it onto it's side. This is where the fun started. I had to lower the car on it's axle stands from highest it would go to it's default setting, now.. Not easy with a sh*te halfrauds jack and stands! I had to lock the car up with a scissor jack to get the halfrauds under to get the axle stands out. Now I had to do this with a busy road and limited space lying in the road! 5 mins and multiple expletives later it was down, I rolled the jack to under the engine and got the two old farts to lift enough so that I could slide the jack under the sump to lift up, we dropped the bolts in with some persuasion from a copper hide and a blunt grind chizel to straighten the mounting rubbers out as they were all over the shop. Bolted the gearbox and engine up, dropped the gear linkages back on and started to wiz through everything, as that happened my helpers disappeared to the pub leaving me to fend for myself. B******s! I'll be sticking up some photos and dropping everything back on that's left off tomorrow. My Dad says I'll never want to work on the car again, but what he doesn't know is that I have new mounts and a bunch of other parts coming this month... The story continues!

Demon tweeks have Goodyear and other brands in stock but you might be able to GOTO motor factors closer to get them. Think they're either M8x1.25 or M10 I can't remember.. Been years! Easiest way to crack them off would be get a cheap socket or two smaller and hammer it over, need to use freeze spray and a wire brush to clean up the area. The science the issue is the nipples are steel and the calipers may be Aluminium or Iron and the radial ions in the calipers chemical makeup pass electrons to the steel and cause a chemical bond between the two so basically if you use freeze spray the steel will shrink a few microns allowing the bonds to break and you can crack the but with either an old socket you don't need or maybe a spanner!

The other 4 that are out are sold out everywhere, only these I've seen. The full sets (all 6 GT ones released) are selling for £30 already! I have a fair few of the Fast & Furious ones still boxed!

Got around to stripping it down today, car couldn't be rolled anywhere and I needed to get it done. It started p*ssing down as soon as I started at 10am this morning. Jacked the car up and stuck it on stands dropped mounts, unbolted everything and dropped it down leaving gearbox where it was on mounts (with a screw driver where bolt was..) After 3-4 hours I separated the engine/gearbox, the fork was well and truly forking stuck. I spent about 40-55minutes to get it to catch and release the clutch. Had to call my grandad to bring a pry bar/crow bar to the house, only had a screw driver! But after I did the seperation of the box it was plane sailing, dropped the engine and slid it out on its side Sumo squatted the short block (bar the head) to the back of the car to pull the parts I wanted off my block for the new one. Stripped rocker off new engine and its clean as a whistle inside looks brand new, the belt is an OE one and is brand new and non-pourous so even though I have a new kit I won't be using it right now The engine is actually a manual so it had a clutch already but I wasn't sure how much wear and tear it had had so pulled it off and compared it with the new one Clutch that I got was an ADL blueprint, but its about 20mm bigger one so thats strike 2 for the parts supplier sending the incorrect parts off VIN now however the original Honda (Nissin OE) one and is barely broken in so with a wirebrushing on the housing I'll be good, so tomorrow I'll be putting it back on Put new ADL oil filter and NGK plugs in ready so tomorrow I can just get it all be dropped in and done. The block looks a bit dirty but It has been sat a long time. I'll clean it all up after I've got it in but that's at the very back of my mind, I just want a running engine now!! While I'm under there tomorrow I'll also be changing the shifter for a K-Tuned Circuit Sport short shifter that's arrived this morning I've got some other bits on order including new kn*b I'm going to replace all the aux belts tomorrow while I'm building the block back up in the car, I'm removing the AC system (I already vented it.. Responsibly ) I took the condenser, pump and one hose out now just need to remove the other one now! Now I'm going to bed, I'm utterly knackered and going to do it all again tomorrow!

Went in Smyth's toy shop.. Saw these, had to didn't I? R32 GTR and a GT40

Got back to find post man had been and left a parcel, arm rest arrived! I'll get that fitted tomorrow after dropping engine in It needs a clean and a fabreeze, smells like cigarettes . Will be recovering arm rest bit with the faux suede I have for door cards and add a bit of padding, its abit solid as it is Next week I'm getting back arch welded up and coilovers fitted

So that's the Rad fitted. About 3X the thickness of old one, got knows what the triple core's thickness would have been now to get some new bolts to bolt fan to. Fitting went smooth AF. Only thing needed adjustment was the slam panel which sat a steel ruler thickness too low, pair of mole grips and 15 seconds bending and it was in. Now to get another set of PWDJdm low profile bolts Dropping the block in tomorrow, ordered some AN fittings and Braided hose so I can vent the can cover in prep for the Turbo. Next stage is to order a alloy overflow tank to clean up the bay!

I'm waiting on a set of hardrace front arms to turn up so I can do them all at once and the go get it aligned properly! I've had about 12 cars and about 8 were turbo'd! I own an R32 GTR I imported recently, and sold an S14 a few months back. Used to have a turbo Micra 1.4 which was like dung off a shovel! Had a lightened 1.3 SR flywheel and 1.0 gearbox. With a paddle clutch, it had MSA logbook as it was a road legal rally car so shoot me a question and ill be more than happy to answer (if I can) Well im getting a 26k mile engine out of a rear ended MB2 auto, I'll be swapping to ARP as soon as I can. Need a running engine first!

Got a brakelight out Deck looks gooood though! I want another deck

The turbo is an old Garrett T28 .63 A/R Journal bearing turbo I had on a D16z6 Coupe years back but on inspection it looks like it would be cheaper to buy a new one than get it rebuilt as it'll need the back-end sand blasted, shot peened and the inner cartridge needs total revamp. By that time I could pick up 2 ebay turbos and run them both until failure! To be honest the eBay's aren't too bad if they're correctly setup and oil restrictions are fitted where necessary. I'll be eventually building the block, but want to get everything else done first..! including fitting my coilovers I've been sat on for 2-3 months!

A common thing a lot of customers did (when I worked parts 4-5 years back) to save themselves about £42 a pair was to buy a set of universal bonnet windscreen washers and use some 3-5mm vac hose which came to no-more than about £6, saving about £42 in total. They usually come with a threaded nozzle at the back with a nut like this: sure they're not as fancy as the parts they replace but if you're on a budget then this might be an option!

You have an IACV (Idle Air Control Valve) and FITV (Fast Idle Thermo Valve), there is a gasket that fits in between several of these components, the water from block reaches it and warms the air as far as I remember from Uni! The gasket might have broken down and letting water through, then you're sucking water into the engine. If you pull it off you should be able to find the leak! double check there is no water in oil and vice-versa, that would/could be a head gasket or water pump issue

Just a sneak peak...

I had a sh**y weekend, I cracked the block. They were torqued to specs, order and steps as told to me by Honda parts, I just had 88-95 bolts for a 95-01 style of engine (88 are 20mm longer). The parts were supplies as a kit so I'm looking to get compensation for the damage caused by the supplier, they used my reg and vin to find parts!! I should have known she was trouble the second I stripped a plug trying to remove it. Previous person to work on it had cross threaded it After stripping the head off everything went smooth and fast, I've had 6 Hondas in the past, DirtyDs are what I learned on and so I know them like the back of my hand. Though the bolt length was new to me.. I dropped oil, coolant etc changed filter, changed gasket, chased plug threads, set valve lash to .006" intake/.007" exhaust, dropped head on and dropped bolts in. Did them in order, 14ft-lb then 29 then 3rd/4th stage was 49ft, first bolt at 49 I heard a ping and my shoes were wet. F***. After sitting in disbelief for a while I locked up car and went inside, searched for a while and found an engine near by for £140; 66k Before I commited, I spoke to a neighbour who works at a local breakers, they have a d14z4 for £50 with 26k miles. I collected today. I am changing it on Friday/sat and will be doing a timelapse video of my f**kery In other news I have some.more shineys...

Check out my inspiration thread on the general chat section, there's a few MA's on there (Domani's)