Finch

Mugen (style) Honda Ferrio spoiler also known as the Civic EG Saloon / Sedan Mugen Spoiler

The torque pattern for the D14Z4 is the same as that for the D16Y8 - 15, 36, 49, 49 according the staff at my local Honda dealership. I assumed as been the case in the past with "proud" bolts that as you start to continue the 3rd and 4th steps it closes the gap down. I've had this on B series and Nissan SR's in the past especially with OE style hex-topped bolts. And as I stated before, I've worked parts and services for car companies and motorfactors before 1 part can cover 1000 cars and have a variation on design because they have made it fit more than one range. This set had two seperate threads on the body, a Honda one at the bottom which I matched and a different pitch thread at the top unlike the ones that came out, I've seen this design in certain applications where they use the top thread to bite into the head to ensure 100% mechanical lock. When I went back to my old place of work we cross referenced the part number it was coming up for Honda CRX / Del Sol and Civic (88 - 95) as well as Honda Preludes, Rovers, MGs, Pontiacs, Toyotas, Citroens and a tonne more other cars. The point is they sent out 88-95 bolts for a 95+ style engine (which has a different deck height to accommodate VTEC designs) unlike its 88-95 predecessors which were still using SPFI or Carbs in some cases! The same supplier sent out the wrong clutch for the new engine I put in and spark plugs and filter (different car). At this point the company I get parts from is now questioning their supplier who has sent out several wrong parts not only for me but other customers they've sold to, The supplier is also investigating whats going on in their picking dept since this isn't the first set of complaints they've had.

I cracked the block due to wrong head bolts being sent to me about 2 weeks ago, swapped to a new engine, I used K-seal was pretty p**s poor tbh.

Ordered a few bits today for both cars and booked Betty into DKU to get a full turbo-back system built once the manifold is here. Called around to a couple of remapping places who have a rep for working on Honda's, TDI north just straight out refused to work on it because they'd never done a D-series before, They stated that they only work on K and F series engines even though I had them map my B16 before and "Hondata" is specifically listed on their website Called Dynodaze and got an astounding "Yes let me know when you're ready" straight away, no F**king around. Perfect. In other news a CX Racing Ramhorn and a Precision 5858 Roller bearing (.82) turbo is on its way to me from the States, I also ordered a Tial 38mm Waste gate, Greddy Type S BOV and a Skunk2 intake manifold. The 5858 is overkill for 150-200hp aim on low boost from all calculations, but eventually I will be swapping it over to a smaller 4831B turbo and putting the 5858 on the D16. What I ultimately want to do is build two near identical cars making similar power except one being a Deck' the other being a fastback. I will be aiming to pickup another D16W4, Z6 or Y8 and build the block completely but for now a little bit of boost on a Honda will be fine Think I'll be eating Noodles for a month or two

Ball joint is definitely on the hub not the lower arm, its the same design as an EG or DC2 You can change them at home with a G-clamp but a press tool is better, some places like machine mart offer a rental service occasionally, Heres a quick guide I've used in the past Except used a long pry bar against the chassis and stepped on it http://www.civicforums.com/forums/119-suspension/340010-ball-joint-diy-v-2-no-air-hammer-necessary.html

Going to try! I had to pay for a new block, belts and service kit, did the putting-in myself but the block, belts etc has cost me another £250-300. If they try to squirm out of it saying I should have had a pro do it, I'll send them my Masters degree in Engineering and tell them to pay up lol

What issue are you having that makes you suspect its the main relay?

I'm 99% sure its the same as the EK mate, if you open the two front doors either side of the dash the panels can come off, most of the time its around there

You can remove the limiter with Crome...

I'm looking at gettting a set, keep sticking the bonnet stay in is getting tiresome when you mess under the bonnet as much as I do!! I've just noticed the Pignose RPS13 in your pictures, lucky lucky lucky man! Most are rotted out, crashed or theyve been facelifted!

In other news I've spent 3hours of this morning searching for Accords, Legacys etc and found a style I want to possibly take the Deck' in VIP ish Big Wang Gang.

Yeah I'll give it a clean tomorrow when I clean the rest of the car Might fiberglass the mirrors in place and paint them while I'm there!

Yeah that's more likely for me Being raped by Barclays for an account I thought I closed 5 years ago

My biggest fear is that people will start thinking I've copied you with your Deck', But there's not a huge amount of variation you can do with our chassis' Though your deck is stunning so if I can get 1/2 way I'd be happy

So I've ordered a few bits for the deck, the promise I made to myself apparently has lasted 2 days. I have ordered a pair of mirrors, they've both seen better days so think I will revamp them both at the same time. I've also spoken to a breaker who has a VTI/S kit, rear passenger light and mid spoiler in so I'm going to be picking that up next week or so when I get paid. I've also ordered another hub and will need to purchase a wheel but want to get the exterior sorted first then I'll sort out the interior.. Apart from the dodgy door handle that's p**sing me off it just needs a clean inside.. and that faux wood removing. I'm going to make a set or skin mine in Carbon Fiber rather than wrapping it Will be painting the bonnet over the weekend (weather permitting) where it has lacquer peel, Luckily its non-metallic so it should be an easy process unlike Betty.

As some might know I bought another M' except this is an Aerodeck, Its mechanically sound, needs some TLC but the F**KING door open light comes on when driving, not major but annoying to see a red light flash and twitch on-off at the bottom of your vision, has anyone run into this? I noticed the drivers door handle inside is loose like it doesn't return to flat naturally like the other 3 do inside, If I push that handle flat and pull the door in a bit more it clicks and the light goes off.. I'm going to giving the car a service and clean this weekend if anyone has any ideas on how I can remedy this pain in the arse I'll be greatful. If someone says WD40, Hammer, Ductape or Cable ties I will hunt you down and beat you with all over the above.

With a chip it might, its only been socketed as it stands It wont offer 15hp extra unless you get a chip for it and in that picture it just looks socketed not chipped, but tbh if you're going to go through all that just get a chipped one and crome or something similar and you can get it chipped or mapped at loads of places. I used to have a chip burner and I had a load of maps from Spoon, Mugen, GarageRR, Zenith, Gojira works that were ripped from chips on ecu's. Everyone has started going hondata or standalone so no need for it any more

Yeah, I had a full gasket, belt and bolt kit. everything was perfect until I torqued the bolts down.. 20mm too long, cracked the block. I needed the 95-02 D-series (120mm) and they had supplied a 140mm 88-95 set of bolts. Gutted.

I had a leak and no fluid in one of my previous cars, coupled with a deep dish my arms were like arnie at the end of the month I like my PAS too much as it stands, I might do an Toyota MRS/MR2 Spyder electro-hydraulic conversion on Betty while shes off the road it depends on the engine I would guess? the D and B share the same location for the PAS pump / hoses, the MG has it on the opposite at the back left-ish side underneath the alternator I think? so Id guess the pipes are going to be in a different place and a different length. It cost me about £15 to get a local hydraulic hose place to make up some pipes so not bank breaking to go custom, I fitted pump and put hoses in and noticed it was about 15mm to short, I had them make them 45mm longer to give me a little bit of play.

I thought it did as it fits into the EG/DC2 and MB6 all had same mounts? Strange!

Whats up with it? Is is leaking? it is it coming from the hoses or the seals? is it p*ssing out or just occasional leak? some stuff like stop leak is available by companies like Wynns and Lucas, Wynns also so a sealant that can be used aswell but I've only ever used the Lucas PAS stop leak. Seals and hoses are replaceable and both are cheap enough to replace its mostly just o-rings on these, no silly circlips as far as I know! but if you are intending on getting a replacement id look for one where you can return your old one and just pay a surcharge, you can save yourself a few quid this way (only really good if the seller is local!)

I'm 99% sure the DC2 and VTI/S MB6 share an identical rack? the DC2 PAS is a 3.2 LTL (lock-to-lock) and Non-PAS is 3.0 ratio's, MB6 uses a 3.2 LTL rack and the EG6 SiR uses a 3.58, now the lower you go the harder it becomes to park!! I had a 2.68 Quaife quick rack in my EK9, it was an absolute horror to park up in anywhere but an empty car park lol

ADL are normally spot on, they produce for OE companies like Nissan Honda Toyota etc but the MB being an odd beast being half rover seems to throw them off

I ordered an ADL clutch and then the one that arrived was about 15mm wider all round on the disc which is no biggy but the pressure plate was about 5mm wider and even if that wasn't the case it would sit too far forward as it was a few mm deeper than the one I took off (both engines I had on the ground!) ended up with reusing the one off the new engine as it was near perfect anyway (engine only has 25k on it)

Red; Its what I started doing with Betty, Had a few red trick bits under the bonnet like Password JDM bolts, Battery stay etc, Red "Mugen" gear knob off ebay. Though I'm not sure about the red grille?