Finch

Pretty much the same, check this out http://www.howtodiyintegra.com/how-todiy-replacing-honda-transmission-input-shaft-bearing-throwout-bearing/

As far as I know, the D15 ones, D16 (apart from ZC DOHC) are all the same. Have you tried local motor factors off a reg though, might be a cheaper option? Though that lists "D15" as all one category ?

H-Tune keep a full D-series gearbox rebuild kit (bearings, seals etc) made by Synchrotech iirc Your best bet is a DC2/EG civic bushing kit or the bushings for said cars to fit OEM style

I need something to keep me quiet in new year, living with my brother in-law and his girlfriend until may during this 6month deployment been here a week and it is sending me bonkers Keep looking at an older B20 CRV just as a fun off road project would need to figure out if overriding the dodgy half-arssed AWD is possible

Nice guessing supertech or Sk2 valves? if you put the z6 up for sale let me know is it a B18?

B series? didn't know you were going B-series! I was thinking about it for the Deck' recently I was looking to pick up a B20 block and B18 head for VTEC and building it but then I keep remembering I have a baby to pay for next year I spent today sorting the clutch fork out on the MB, now need to bleed to slave as its got nothing-nothing-nothing-BAM pressure! For all but about 3cm from the floor

If you can go with a higher spring rate to match similar such as the DC2 (10/8 or 12/8) would be better IMO though the rear is lighter than you'd think

Yeah that's what I have printed out but ARP says 60 lol

There seams to be a tonne of mixed info on the D-series. I did mine to 65 on the d16z6 I used to have, but there seems to be a load of different info can't be simple like all Bs or SRs and have a single set of data!!

It has been indeed - this was like a week after getting the deck so I was in a right PI5SY mood! now I have both cars running, I will be getting them both up to Manchester in the next few weeks so I can work on the MB at night/weekends and the deck for use daily when I need a car I'm going to start undersealing and rust treating the deck for now, then do a wing change and bonnet paint when I get a few hours. Chandler you said you'd gone ARP headstuds IIRC? Did you torque to 60ft-lb do you know?

The initial thoughts were to clean up the Deck' make it safe and sell it on.. I will now be keeping it instead. I am going to clean it up, do all the restorative works on it (scuffs, scratches, dents, paint peel etc fixed) and use it as a daily. I am however focusing now on Betty; The 1.4 Sport. I've started stockpiling parts for a winter build ready for the new year! Today I got a shipment from Nengun and Yesterday I had one from RHDJapan... I'm keeping the majority of them under wraps until I can get some serious time to do all the work needed. I sent the old block off to the scrapyard however I did save the Sump and the Rocker for some work later on down the line The one thing I will reveal is this...

Dropping the gearbox and changing the input bearing is fairly straight forward, the best option is to use a slide hammer to put it in as sometime its an awkward angle or cant get leverage with a clamp or wood.. Infact when I did an enigne swap recently (due to cracked cylinder / block) I dropped the gearbox out anyway aswell as about 50 times on other Hondas in the past! it is about 14-16 bolts total that hold it all in place mount wise and 5 bolts to hold it on the engine! You're going to need - Sort of flat area to work on which allows you to jack the car up SAFELY A good socket set 8, 10, 12, 14, 17 18 19 32mm (I think thats everything) - 2nd 17 or a 17mm spanner also handy! Jack and stands small piece of wood about A4 size Breaker bar 1-1.5ft ish pry bar WD40 Mallet Optional: Ball joint seperator fork If you're confident in doing it yourself its very doable! my steps to remove it would be (however I take no responsibility if you follow my directions and injure yourself, property or anyone else for that matter): leave car on wheels on ground, pop off the cap to show the driveshaft nut (32mm) - break this loose with a breaker bar, leave about 10% of it threaded on and hit with a mallet so you see it physically move back a bit, take the rest of the nut off and leave the splines in- leaving the nut on stops any threads getting damaged and spreads load over the larger 32mm area rather than the 24(?)mm threaded spline unbolt the castle nut on your steering arm and separate that can be tricky, use plenty of WD40, wire brush and a breaker bar or pry bar. Move this off to left close to the inner arch to stop it getting damaged or moved out of line jack car up, take off the 17mm nut off the suspension leg and bash the location bolt through, turn the hub towards driver inner arch. pull the leg out the way towards you over the lower arm towards the front so you can push the remaining bit of the cv joint out of the hub and pull the driveshaft towards front end and down so you can get the drive shaft through the lower fork part. - Put the fork back over the lower arm out of the way! you now need to get under the car and get a chizel or breaker bar behind the gearbox side of the shaft - it will need you to hammer a chizel between the box and the gearbox joint and wiggle - its very doable with 1 person but a second person to pull that shaft out is recommended (I didnt have anyone helping and smacked my self in the face with a driveshaft) once this is done your drivers driveshaft is out the way for you to start cracking bolts. id take off the rad hoses to give yourself a bit more room to work with and if you want it the whole rad - when I was doing it I fitted a triple core racing radiator so it wasnt in anyway!! take off the starter motor and put it somewhere dry! Tuck the wires out the way so you can get to the various bits you need you have 2x 8 or 10mm bolts holding a bracket on at the rear of the box below where the starter was which holds in the fluid pipe for the clutch master cyl - unbolt these two 12 or 14 bolts up front of the gearbox hold in the master cylinder - unbolt these and move the whole lot out the way - careful not to bend the lines or else you need to get new ones!! start doing all the bolts round the box leaving in 1 top and 1 bottom at a diagonal - I believe these are 14 or 17mm from memory you have 4 on the left holding the gearbox to the chassis which is again either 14 or 17mm - There are another couple bolts up on the bulkhead left side which holds a horizontal bolt and captive nut in a mount LEAVE THIS IN FOR NOW 3 at the back which I think was a 19mm on the rear mount - These are only really accessable from underside take your jack with your bit of wood and put it under the gearbox to take the load off the mount and bolts - remove the last 2 bolts on the box - There might be a couple more bolts on the gearbox crud-plate I have forgotten.. I just get under and do it and never pay much attention lol At this point you're going to either have to remove the spring pin in the gear linkage or just take the bolts out the gear linkage plate under the shifter and pull out the lot which is 4x 12mm - leaving the linkage on is faster but also more work when you need to put it all back in!! You will need to repeat the driveshaft removal on the passenger side except you can leave the driveshaft in the actual hub and just remove it from the box - it WILL MOST LIKELY LEAK OIL Take out the main mount bolt on the bulkhead left side mount - I'd leave the 2-3 that go direct into the gearbox on and just remove the bolt that holds it onto the chassis once this has been done check there are no earths left bolts on the gearbox or bolts left holding the engine and box together and you can let off the jack slightly to a point where you can wiggle it and free it out - This is possibly where a prybar comes in handy Then you just need to take the gearbox apart I'd pitch in about how to do a bearing swap but this thread covers it on D-series.org http://www.d-series.org/forums/transmission-alley/14079-diy-tranny-removal-input-shaft-bearing-change.html 2nd hand gearbox's are always iffy and you might be hard pressed to find a D15 one, a D16 is longer ratio and (i think?) has a different size clutch / flywheel

If the dizzy has been swapped you might have the arm flipped 180 or ignition timing out a few degs stopping spark

I'll be running AEM infinity 5 anyway as I already have one, I just wanted to know of there was a Immo on ECU or not I'll be using it with my D14 turbo, RHB5 turbo and a few other bits

I'm wondering if the people with P28s had any issues with their ECUs/cars with immo systems? I am swapping ECUs to either chipped, Hondata or standalone and know the MB has an Immo system and know some people swap in a "immo bypass chip" on certain ECUs. Has anyone had to have a bypass chip? Or any other issues? I'm raring to get started doing the build but want to get everything ready all at once!

Roll them would possibly be your best bet to fold the lip in, then underseal

They're mostly obd1 with OBD2 ECUs with the plugs slightly cut. You can fit an OBD1 by trimming A plug though Turbo route can be done for £4-500~ but you're going to need a remap etc anyway so better start off with remap and then go turbo later What you really need to check is the kickpanel to see what the extension (diagnostic) plug is aswell. If its there its got an obd else its Hondascan stuff.. H-tune sell pre-socketed ecus, if its VTEC you can use a p28 else you need a P08. Hope that helps.

Yeah I have a 3 point belt on the Sport thats a 2000 reg car!

I didn't know that!

aren't VTI Alloys 4x113.4? not 4x100?

Aerodeck backseats are slightly different to the MB Civic ones I'm pretty sure buddy @UnicyclingTom @Dave @Grant @Chandler might be able to help

Top is a stock spring-over-shock setup from an EK, the lower is an EG coilover. As you see the EK is around 10-12mm so you need a couple washers to pack out the fork on the arm MeisterR and BC both make MB specific coilovers, usually the BC's are listed as DC2/MB6 but the difference is negligable, are normally around £600-800. Anything DC2, Civic EG and MB6 will be a direct fit.

EK ones work You need a few washers to stop the coilover moving in the LCA (Lower control arm) as the EG/DC2/MB/MC has a thinner LCA (and thus coilover) to the EK type, Honestly though I'd save your money and buy something better instead of those coilovers, prosports are very cheap and bouncy and the valving/seals aren't great which is the real thing you want in coilovers especially if you're going to slam it right down, last thing you want is in 3 months time to have to replace them again!

Ah! OK I wasn't sure if you were VTEC'n from the get go like some people do I was trying to listen to that video, Apart from the cooling fan kicking in I can't really hear much else, describe it and then I'll try relistening

if its an ADL Blueprint one You're all set mate, ADL Blueprint (Bilstien) are made by Bilstien group for Nissan, Honda, Toyota, Subaru etc from factory