Finch

There are going to be 3 things to factor in, pick 2 because you can't have all 3 - Cheap - Fast - Reliable

What engine do you have in the car? When was the car serviced last? Was the fuel filter done at that same time? I would do a full service including fuel filter, fill the tank to the maximum and then put a fuel cleaner/injector cleaner in the car something like Lucas and run the car hard. While you're there doing the service take the battery off for an hour and let the ecu reset too it will relearn the correct fuel ratio etc. other than that you can get a obd scanner and check for any errors

I assume you mean the nipple? The oldest most recommended trick is to get a deep socket 1mm smaller than the nut hammer it on and remove it with a breaker/ratchet and then get another nipple and replace it. The probability of removing the nut is going to be slim AF unless you can super-freeze the socket to silly low temps and pull nut out, so get a socket you're not too bothered about binning (cheaper than a new caliper!!) Other than that there is the possibility of drilling through the middle and using a tap-die, thread it to accept a different bleed nipple IIRC the Micra/March K11, Almera, Primera P11 ones are around 2-4mm thinner than the Honda ones so if you found their thread size might work to thread in? Or a motorbike one might work aswell. Another method would be to chop it off with grinder flat to surface face, drill out remaining bit, tap it wider than you need, fit a helicoil and replace with an OEM sized nipple - though not sure how well heli-coil's would work with fluid? or a combo of this and above might work tbh Or very worst-case scenario, look for a machine shop near you that does various engineering tasks, has a lathe etc and give them the caliper ask them to remove the nut and maybe re-thread if they need to (I.e if they drill it out) - I'd get a new nipple in-case they do and ask them to thread to that size. DemonTweeks in the UK have various brands including Goodridge ones in stock in various sizes but might be cheaper to get something closer to home. Before you refit the caliper, if you're drilling or tapping i'd get some fluid and flush the caliper out to clear any metal particles inside, basically filling up with fluid until it starts leaking then let drain over night, dry and flush with compressed air too this stops the chance of a fragment working through to the rubber boot or jamming the piston up

Yeah, It took around an hour for me to get upset, I called the my buddy at the shop I got the parts (where I used to work) it turns out their supplier used my VIN and Engine code and sent out the parts using that info so at this point theres a bit of a chain of blame however I completely blame the supplier who sent them to my old work place as they had the correct details to cross check! No not good at all, I've spoke to a friend who works at a local breakers, He's got a few Dirty D's in and is going to have a look for the lowest mileage one in, regardless of size (1.4 > 1.6) I'll be in need of one ASAP (I travel 40miles minimum a day). If the engine is a D16 I'll have to run it on standard (1.4) ECU with everything plumbed up and plugged in as if the car was the standard 1.4 engine except running the 1.6 injectors. Not ideal but until I can afford to buy a few bits next month, including either a chipped P28+S300 or AEM Standalone I'll need to deal with dodgy fuel economy but at least I'll have a running car! I did some digging over the last 24 hours and found that there is 2 type of bolts on the market an 88-95 D16 and the 95+ which are 20.25mm shorter than the 88-95 ones so they royally f**ked up, especially as they're supplied it as a kit (Timing, Head gasket and Bolts) Stay tuned; I'll be posting a couple of pictures on a build thread.

So today, I, completely and utterly f**ked up. Did a full service, gasket change, checked for warpages etc (had blown head gasket for like 2 months but not time to do it), valve lash adjustment, brakes etc. Basically a pre-winter overhaul before I start building a D16 to drop in. I got round to torquing the bolts and noticed they were about (exactly, on measurement) 20mm longer. The bolts were longer but no-issue, I've worked in parts before and know that 1 part can cross reference 100 vehicles all with various odd differences so just ran with it. Chased threads with an old bolt and then dropped the head on dropped all the bolts in and started in sequence going up to hand tight then started torquing with the wrench. First steps 14ft-lb (according to local Honda parts dept) then 39ft-lb and final 2 stages both at 49ft-lb to ensure complete seal. I did steps 1 and 2, no issues, threads were perfect but noticed the bolts were sat at around 16-18mm above the face of the head. At this point I was looking and couldnt figure out what was going on. I got my dad outside to look and give an opinion (chartered aerospace engineer) who was a bit confused but said "is that the last step of torque?" I said no there are 2 others, he then pointed out that they might close down in the 3rd step because you know they used 4 steps for a reason. I agreed. I did the 1st bolt in the sequence and there was a ping, I froze, looked down as water started pouring out the front of the block. I did not swear, cry, shout or anything I just stood in disbelief. I removed a bolt and did a size comparison and found exactly 20mm was different and I'd hit the bottom of the block. as I continued to torque the bolt couldn't go anywhere but outwards. Damn.

Do you want the long or short? Long; Do the basics, IECR - Intake, Exhaust, Cams Remap; Depending on Year and ECU you might need to get a different ECU from H-Tune, Get a chipped P28/P06 and Crome if thats the case. If not you can get your ECU chipped (depending on ECU). Remapping can be done at quite a few places, I think PJ Motorsports can still do D's (I had a D16z6 Turbo mapped there about 4-5 years back) but you're looking around £150-200 total, can make all kinds of power depending on the age, spec, upgrades etc Cam wise, the D14Z4 is abit limited, you can get someone like Kent or Piper to regrind your cam to say a 243 profile, get an adjustable cam gear and run 1-2* of advance. If you're going to pull cam out you might as well set the lash on the valves to around 0.001-0.002" to get the clearances back to near factory. Other than that a D15ZC cam is quite agressive compared to the other non-vtec D-series, but nothing that is going to give you issues. ZC cam can make upto 10hp with right map, regrinds can make around 15-20 depending on timing, profile and map. Intake ditch the f**king aweful polymer intake manifold and look for a D15ZC, D16z6 or Y8 factory/OE one they're much much better. You can also port-polish the runners with a dremmel to increase a bit of flow though these IM's make around 3-4hp more. Accompanied by port-polish on the head if you're stripping it off will make a few more hp across the range.. Head over the Bilston, goto BMS opposite subway ask for Raj and order either an S2000 standard filter from an AP1, or a Pipecross panel; They do a huge range of silicone hoses in stock too. Tell him Jack said to speak to him and he'll keep you sweet!. Exhaust wise; Toyosports are your best bet, they have stainless manifolds, they're cheap, decent quality and ship fast (only come from Brum so not exactly far!) Ditch the cat and run a test-pipe or goto K'ford and get them to weld you a cat-delete pipe in or if you have about 200-250 to spend a full cat-back setup including cat delete to match to your toyosports 4-1/4-2-1 manifold. You will need O2 sensor holes fitted for the lambda sensor(s) Flywheel is your next point of call freeing up power across the band as the engine can rev faster and more freely, accompanied with the IECR you'll have more power accessed faster. On top of all these depending on how much you're willing to spend there are two options; Head work including skim by someone like Willenhall engine center and gas-flowwed port-polish by someone like Andy @ cylinder head developments or turbo, the D14z4 isn't exactly receptive to a turbo, as far as I know they can't handle more than a few psi before ringlands start failing (especially on an engine with high milage) but each one of these will require remap unless you want sh***y fuel economy Short; Do an engine swap; H22, K20/K24 (about 2.5k - 4k depending on budget and spec of build. I was doing one until I needed to save some cash), D16z6 and ECU, B16, B18 will all work but will require work. The B or D (You have a D14z4) will be the easiest, D/B use same mounts, so only difference you would require if you were to fit a B would be shafts, gearbox, engine, loom, ecu but these could be picked up out of a B18C4 out of a VTI/VTI-S Tom, I'm going to send you a PM!

Yeah completely from scratch, I've used a few opensource packages for things like text editors save me trying to write them all from scratch! I'm currently about 100 hours in, pretty sure my eyes are about to bleed with all the late nights and early morning doing work where I can on it. At the moment I'm still unsure if dash will remain its name I've been thinking of other things but its the one that sort of fits! I've had D-turbo's before and they're quick even when stock internally, but a built one will cost about 1/5th of what I was going to pay for everything done on the K24 and will make good powerrrr.. which on a 1.4 box will be even more fun Hahaha Say Tom with the broken civic What actually is up with yours?

The web project I've been working on is a social media platform not-unlike Facebook; but solely aimed at car people. I realised a long time ago I really dont talk to anyone except car people and family, having a platform where all my friends are together and can freely talk cars without someone popping up with a snarky comment, can introduce friends etc is my goal. I hate Facebook with a passion (both personally and professionally having worked with them in the past) so this is my way of fighting against their sh***y ways. Enter.. Dash...

So over the past few weeks I've been planning, buying parts and building a K24 / K20A2 Hybrid block. The plan was to swap it in a few months time when I moved to my new deployment and didn't need to use the car for regular motorway miles so could have it off the road for a few weeks. I started buying parts a few months back; ARP bolts and studs, OEM gasket (5 layer), Hasport EG/DC2 Mounts, Hybrid racing shifter, mount and cables, Insane 1000hp rated shafts, KTuned water pump, thermo and pulley kit, a K24 Accord TypeS 6 speed (came with K24), Had planned to start building the block in the near future with cams, valvestrain kit, rywire harness and bottom end stuff too but then Life got in the way. Friday night we found out we're having a baby, so on Saturday I made a gutwrenching decision that as we'll be needing more space than we had planned initially that the engine was not a massive priority and £4-5k worth parts could probably go a long way towards a few things. I stuck an advert up on one of the plethora of honda pages on FB and within minutes had people prodding and poking and trying to vulture parts out of the job lot until a guy less than 15miles away piped up that he'd collect in 2 hours.. I sat there waiting, a gangly 6ft something asian chap pulled up and emerged from a black EG Coupe on Rota grids turned up.. we had a quick chat showed him all the stuff, We loaded the stuff into the (already slammed) EG boot and stood talking on the driveway and came to the point of turbos after he saw the 6266 turbo lying on the workbench. A few minutes of jabbering went by and we got to the point of a D16 turbo build popped up, I explained I had owned an EK coupe with D16z6 turbo in the past and he showed me a tonne of pictures, videos and posts on a (hidden) Facebook group of guys who meet up on every second Wednesday at a garage on an industrial estate to have a natter, help each other out and just meet mates. Something that reminded me of being back at uni where our group of mates did the very same. Which is one reason I've been building a web-project which will be revealed later on.... We got talking and I pretty much started planning another D16 turbo build right then and there. Nothing crazy just a 1.6 non-vtec turbo running about 0.75bar with a few essentials; ACL Bearings, ARP Rods, OE Gaskets, Supertech valve kit and bisimoto cam.. maybe Eagle rods and vitara pistons while I'm there too.. 450cc DSM injectors, SARD FPR, AEM rail, ramhorn equal length manifold and a T3 Turbo. Aimed at around 250hp on a budget... My brain is screaming do it and the money is burning a hole.. Help!

Wouldn't happen to be the workshop in barford stree would it? Mo with the 1.4 Micra there bought a load of my Nissan March parts off me. He had the fastest micra (134hp / 126ft-lb) in mids at one point

Contact adhesive is what you actually need, scrape the old foam sh** off for a better grip and apply or just apply it and let it go tacky and stick it back down.

That's true! When I was in Japan there was a whole crew of March (Micra) drivers with UK parts on like the Sport (Facelift) bumpers which the March's didnt get.

This was on my EK9 Turbo, Would probably be better on an MB Yeah, that was my only disagreement with them, I'd definitely have them for the Road again though.

I'm sure I replied to this... b****r!

The F40 should be on everyones inspiration thread.

Duck Tails and Over Fenders. A Simple yet excellent combo; The over fenders not only look mean AF but they allow a much wider stance and contact patch for the cars footprint. Allowing you to fit a much wider wheel when you're looking to maximize the grip available to you. Duck tails give both an Aerodynamic change to the rear end but they're pretty badass looking too. Diffusers are on my next agenda...

not sure if you've ever fixed this issue but a horn-shoe is what you need.

Alot of them are streetable but in some instances are loud, dirty or need to be hot to grip well, which unless you're a f**king moron driving around at limiter everywhere isn't great. I tried the Ferrodo FRP3062 that I bought with the spoon calipers for about 3 days they had no grip at low temps at all. Might as well not bothered putting them in, they were a proper full-race pad which needed warming up and to be very very honest scared me.. Unlike others which need bedding in they're supposedly fast bedding (1-2hours?!) and needed no warm up much like EBCs yellow stuff but they definitely needed warming to get them grippy else they're basically like glass, Ferrodos answer was that I needed their discs (DDF829) but they were nothing more than standard ones they offered which in my opinion is a bulls**t answer. I called my friends shop, got a set of DS2500's (FCP905H) which were much more responsive and crisp on the road though they kicked up a bit of dust, but on the track were cinders in no-time and gave massive brake fade

Wouldn't happen to know if that blue one is a Girl called Lindsey would you?

In my EK9 Turbo I ran ProjectMu HC+, Carbotec X10s and Ferrodo DS2500 in 3 years and 11 track days. I had Spoon Monoblock calipers, 5.1 fluid, Stopper and HEL Lines and ADL Blueprint discs. I came down from 135~ > 40~ with DS2500s and went to turn in brakes just failed, when I got back out gravel and back to pits the pads were charcoal. Great on roads, dire on a track where you're pushing them to limit. Went to Carbotecs and they were pretty great but SO SO LOUD and bite point on street was meh at best. HC+'s Were bought to try out, worked great at first! stopping bite was fantastic but after about 150 miles I was down to less than half the size of the original thickness... which is less than an average week commute for me which wasn't great especially when the pads £120+shipping from RHD Japan Ended up settling on Endless CC43 "Circuit" pads with the Endurance compound which lasted 12 months and 2 further track days, I rarely do town driving except shopping on a sunday with the girlfriend but they had no issues in traffic and got me out of a few sticky situations where I may have been going too fast on the way to work (lots of country lanes) and tractors and such have pulled out of gates, slammed anchors on and they (coupled with good tyres) helped me stop on a 10p. In 4 years the discs were only changed once when I fitted the Monoblocks otherwise they weren't changed as they never needed to be, Tyres and brakes are the two things I check most often

I'm a software engineer for a very large supplier of secure systems and networks, mainly for closed system networks but work with various authorities and companies. If your phone contract provider has an app, We probably built it and the server gateway that goes with it.

Rover streetwise / 25 Engine!? Gross! Alsoooo!! I meant to say- I got my renewal from Hastings, They wanted £2500 this year (from £1000~) I had no accidents, claims or convictions in the time so I was really confused what the hell had happened, called a couple of companies today; Sky Insurance (mentioned C5 etc) and Brentacre. Sky quoted me £1060 TPFT with mods declared which was cheapest I'd found even though I wanted fully comp UNTIL I called Brentacre; £960 Fully comp, all inclusive of mods currently done! No admin fees to add on suspension, wheels or cosmetic mods either!

just hope its not a Rover!

I stopped at Aldi on way to work today and noticed they had Angle grinders in, Somehow managed to knock one and some attachments into my basket. 3 Year no-quibbles waranty and £20? Accessories (sanding pads etc) came to £8 I think..! £31.04 later and I have a new toy . And stop looking at my girlfriends pussies! I meant what Engine code like B18 etc, The only Honda Diesel I know of is the N22A (2.2)

Fixed it; Now it's allowed