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Everything posted by Finch
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I have one of those super power packs, decent bit of kit Love the shooting brake accords, just needs more lows But weren't you jumping it "wrong" I guess? I was always lead to believe you do positive (donor) > positive (dead) and Negative (donor) > any metal point on the car NOT the battery to stop it discharging the dead battery further?? - Might be wrong but its how I have always done it and think its what AA/RAC recommend WHOOPS!
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I had a duff headgasket on my 180k block in the MB2, I tried everything from steel seal, stop leak, barrs etc nothing really did the job and it eventually got worse and worse and blew hoses clean open not just off - Did drive it 50miles a day though... Its a pain in the wallet but if you get it done now you'll save yourself ALOT of money in the long run, especially if it cracks a cylinder wall or keeps blowing hoses up etc.
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Last minute bit of test fitting of a Starlet GT (EP82) rear spoiler. Needs a bit of fettling and chopping but Should make a nice mold for carbon / fiberglass piece(s) later in the year - Might even have a couple for sale
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I'm not sure, I know some fit some dont. I've always had B16B / B20 with B16B head and D-series, never had a B18C4
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- honda civic mb
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Progress will be at a lul once again, being shipped off to the capital for 4-6 months for work after the attack the other week. All hands on... "Deck" ...but not that deck' Got plenty more bits on the way so when I get chance I'll hopefully have a massive update for you all Couple AEM and AN6 bits here for then though.
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As far as I know, Yes. I ran SK2 previous and lost power without porting it due to odd cast marks, now I port, polish and portmatch everything intake side and I've never had an issue
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@mokus if you're going to port match the TB you should port match and polish the intake manifold aswell, smoother power delivery
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Yeah that's what I'm thinking. I swear it would t-cut out
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Basically (Fork rear shock) DC2/EG bits are interchangeable between MB and EG/DC2 bits bud Some EK bits fit but the rear shocks are slightly different and front upper control arms bolt in different. Brake wise (trailing arms etc) mostly fit the same Is this for your coupé? I got Skunk2 Black Series upper strut bars for sale front and back for £140 - were over £300 new recently just can't fit back ones on an MB, they fit EG/EJ/EK and DC though!
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Yeah, I got evidence (texts and emails!) His mate is doing the quotes so I guess he just told his mate to bump the price up
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More bits arrived today Left/Right track rod ends and ball joints to replace the old parts on the Deck' since I've got a new plan for it Mind the messy AF workshop counter..!
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NICE! My Parents had an RB26DETT (Single turbo converted however) RSFour with the Masa Motorsports front end until last year, It was registered as a "Maxima" by the SVA/Importers back around 2001-2002
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As far as I know the EK9 / DC2 B series are 60mm TB; Get one, a thermal gasket for both TB and intake manifold from say thermatec - Port match the mani and the TB to gasket size and you'll make power in a much smoother band too Throw on a Whale c0ck, a S2000 cone filter (OEM / Aftermarket OEM style) in a box of some kind and you'll make a few hp.. might need to map it in though to make most of the power
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- honda civic aerodeck
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No if you take the bolts out to slack it off its about 10-15* out on each side, it would need drilling out at an angle. If it doesn't sell on one of the many faceballs pages I'll drill it out or get a piece made to adapt it but I'd rather just sell it and pick up an MGZS one to save the hassle
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I'm nearly done part collecting for the Turbo build however since the crash I've decided I have a very-very special Idea for the Deck once I move house The crash originally was going to be just between us however the third parties dad (chap was young.. maybe 19-20?) got involved and suddenly "quotes" coming from what seems thin air. He quoted me £703+VAT to get it sprayed. At this point I told him to go insurance and he was very very hesitant called me 3-4 times during a meeting so I basically realised at this point he is trying to pull a fast one! Money is definitely a thing I think about its just I like quality bits and most of the time I take a bit of time gathering stuff together before I fit them so I can do a full job on all the bits and pieces at once- And I have a very understanding Missus!
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So heres a couple of sneak-peek pictures I'll show you for now Definitely not going any where, 1.75" pipe with a 4mm wall and a 17mm plate The mount pipes have and inner/outer pipe with a 1/2" gap and a stainless bolt down wards so in the unfortunate event of an impact it brakes the bolt and simply takes the impact giving me 10mm gap for inertia to drop off Threw on the Skunk2 Upper strut bar.. Sold my Password:JDM/Tegiwa 3Pt type in favour of this as its easier to take off if I want to work on it. Also photographed... Fake Mugen oil cap and the D16Z6 Port matched intake manifold. I've also got an AEM fuel rail, AN6 Lines, Vacuum junction and a SARD Fuel Pressure Reg to go on ASAP - Then the bloody thing can move Did however discover the Skunk2 Rear strutbar does not fit... And can't be bent
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I'd have gone for a black mesh, but looks good either way
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Me too, looks to be a broken headlight bracket but I'll sort that later
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Turns out only light and the bash bar... But I'm getting a uber JDM Drift spec bumper support made up tomorrow
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So today.. This happened. I have a huge update coming on the MB2 but now my daily is sort of dead Had a young lad in a polo in front, he braked hard after getting cut up and I slid in the rain into his rear end! Bashbar, lights, bonnet and bumper are now bent any which way.
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Ever wondered how many of a model of car are still on the road?
Finch replied to Muddyf's topic in Useful Links
I have one of the 1.6 SE Decks' -
Fitted a new set of hoses, the layout in the PIC wasn't its final layout as I quickly figured out the one I had plummed to the overflow was actually for the throttle body But found the inside of Betty had gone mouldy due to a hole in the roof where the old washer jet on the roof had dropped off. So water had been coming in, that's getting welded up next month
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Worked at a tuners/speed/autofactor shop many moons ago, aswell as had a business wrapping and signage. Got to drive a few rollers, lambos and Bentley's etc.. Wrapped a roller in purple velour wrap once..
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Jenolite is the best rust treater there is IMO, We use it at work and they supply the MOD for ships, cars, tanks etc. You can use under seal aswell it usually is rust inhibiting something like the Waxoyl underseal stuff is pretty good Waxoyl / Hammerite underseal Jenolite 500ml
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It wouldn't be too difficult to weld a new panel in there if you get it cut out, id use a wire wheel and take it back, put some jenolite on it and let it cure off to stop the spread for now, then get some quotes. using flat panel might be better however I used to use Finishing Touch (but can't remember their details..) they actually made up custom beveled panel for an S14 repair I had done