Gamrin

Without a shred of a doubt, my absolute favourite mod is the pair of custom-build hand-made cup holders. Cut on the dotted line Glue it up nice and straight. Use the plastic you cut out to make a nice flat bottom. Assemble Fits like a glove!

Those metal clips are quite the bother. I broke most of them off, and just glued the strip back in afterwards.

It's this little doodad. Goes over the latch (Which I had on the wrong way, btw. The boot closes properly again now.) So far, my Jass crankshaft locker doesn't fit. My Jass engine damper melted from the heat from the turbo. And my Jass Radio Cage with holes for three gauges (as seen in previous pictures) does in fact not fit three gauges, because the holes are too close together. I eventually went with the IL Motorsport one, which needed only minor trimming of the gauge bezels. So far, my experience with IL Motorsport parts has been absolutely flawless. I have the cupholder center console, several maintenance parts including gaskets and seals and the armrest. As well as several OEM parts from them. I'm even considering replacing my skidnation coolant reroute with one of theirs.

I've actually been able to do a couple of trips with the braces on, and you feel it so-ridiculously-much. The car used to flex like a mad man, but now It's so stiff that I almost tripod when I'm rolling off my driveway. I can recommend it to everyone with an MX-5. I still have to put the connecting piece for the Butterfly-Brace on, as I wasn't sure if that was supposed to stick out that much (spoiler alert, it does. Skidnation has it on the website with a bit of poke.). Hoping to get some more mods done this week, and I hope the rest of the parts come in soon. And now to keep myself accountable and motivated... Planned mods in semi-short term, and their current troubles: That last dang brake caliper (1hr) Fuel pressure regulator and hoses (1hr) waiting on hose ~2 weeks Intake Tube & smaller K&N pod filter (30 minutes) Not sure if I'm going to reroute the Intercooler Piping later on. I like the double overhead piping look, but having the turbo outlet go straight down clears up some space in the bay. PCV system and catch-can (30 minutes) waiting on fittings ~2 weeks Mate might have these waiting on hose ~2 weeks Might have some lying about needs to drill into intake, which doesn't have much space right now. Might be able to use/find a different piece of piping. Also, this is just in. I just put in the Jass performance boot-light. First Jass performance part that isn't pure dogs**t. (So far)

The images come from Google Photos indeed. I'm reuploading them now. In the meantime, I've discovered that my oil leak is probably a PCV system failure. So I'm reworking that in a hope to remedy it. Missing parts in the brake caliper package made it that I only just now have everything to do the job. Luckily the weather is improving, so working in the garage isn't as frigid anymore. Lots of oil on the Crankcase Ventilation. I'll have to do the Fuel Pressure Regulator soon too, as it seems that whole system is weeping fuel fumes. No Bueno. Waiting for some hoses and parts for that. And now the pictures: The frame rails The Frog Arms The Rust

The turbo has been an absolute blast! I'm currently in the process of adding to the fuel system with an FPR (and redoing some of the venting bits that make the cabin smell like fuel), adding Frame Rails, adding Frog arms and remapping the ECU. I got in my new brake caliper today, so that's going in this weekend. After that, I'll start rebuilding the front end. I also trimmed and re-mounted the plastic shroud in the bumper. Happy days! Before that, I was zooming at 1.1bar / 16psi. She's a beaut, and if I'm to believe the Virtual Dyno, I should be hitting just under 200whp. Keep in mind, this is on the 90hp cams, so there's more area under the graph. I think 240~300hp is about as much as you would ever want in this chassis. It's very capable in the turns, and now the engine kind of keeps up with that. I'm low-key afraid for my transmission, and the clutch is slipping all day, but I'm laughing all the way home and on tour. Great Turbo noises! I'm also leaking oil again, so I guess I'll have to do the oil pump sometime next year. As well as fix a rusty sill. I'm also chasing some electrical gremlins, so I've tied the gauges into Sensor Ground instead of chassis ground. I'm curious if that will solve my issues with the AFR gauge swinging fairly wildly. If not, it's probably an exhaust leak somewhere before the lambda. Still plenty of money to be lost on this car, but it's worth every penny and every drop of sweat and blood.

Big Correction, by the way. Turns out my Torsen Diff is a 4.1 final ratio.

About the air-jack. Be careful, they are structurally weaker than the hydraulic and might jiggle away from under the car if not used carefully. In general, please make sure to NEVER WORK ON A CAR ONLY SUPPORTED BY A JACK. Always have jack stands under either the jacking point, frame rails or the suspension arms. Jacks wíll fail, and they wíll crush your arm/leg. You won't be able to pull away in time. You won't be careful enough about keeping your legs/arms from under the car. You won't be keeping that arm/leg if 1,5 tons of civic dumps on top of it. €30 / 25 pound cheap jack stands are worth it if you wrench often. I have 6 for 2 cars. Preferably lockable ones. If you can't get those, use a (spare) wheel under the car to break the fall. Don't use a tyre unless it's a 305 or more.. If you can get Ramps, those are generally more stable than jacks and jack stands. Less useful for wheel work, but great for exhaust/engine work.

This is my project car. My weekend car. My money pit and my track weapon. And it's awful, and beautiful, and I love it. Current mods: Suspension: Driftworks HSD Coilovers OZ F1 wheels 7J Nankang NS-2R 205/50/r15 EBC slotted brake discs (255/251) EBC Greenstuff Pads Chassis and Seat experience TR Lane Rollbar Takata 3" 4-point Harnasses with buckle LTEC FIA bucket seats (Cobra Monaco rebranded) Trunk popper wire Momo corse secondhand steering wheel Aliexpress Short Shifter NRG Short hub NRG Quick release Delrin Door bushings IL Motorsport Cupholder Center Console Driveline 1.8 Torsen diff 3.9 Engine Japspeed Alu Rad Skidnation Coolant reroute Suzuki Cappuccino bottle Silicone Hoses Ebay Turbo Kraken Manifold and Downpipe Stainless hoses for turbo cooling and oil feeds Epman Freddy BOV Ebay Intercooler Ebay Intercooler piping NGK BKR7E plugs Electronics Flip-up android radio Pioneer Speakers Pioneer underseat sub (behind seat) Innovate MTX-L Plus Wideband Innovate MTX-D Water Temp Gauge Innovate MTX-D Boost Gauge Central locking with remote MX5-tech Headlight controller LED Headlights ExtraEFI MS2 standalone ECU no-name serial port hub to USB Mods lined up for installation (Need Time and motivation): Skidnation Chassis Rails Ultra Racing Frog arms MAC Electronic boost control EPMAN FPR Oil Catch Can(s) IL Motorsport Sport Engine Mounts Toyota COPs Photo history (summarized) It all started as a stock MX-5 in a new and mostly empty garage. First mod, Coils. Quite a drop. Polished the car proper. Next up, wheels. Got these cheap cause they were bent (apperently). Got them straightened out recently, but got some different ones in the meantime. Those are migrating to a civic. Love this Rollbar time? Rollbar time! Makes it practical AF. That's a Server Rack. Add Seats, add bracing (rarely have this on, as I'm working on it too much). Also, those fresh new wheels I told you about. Happy LED Lights! Fixed the seat mounts. Highly recommend it. Skidnation mounts dó have slots, all the others don't. As you can see, it's 2mm off center. Sticker mods. Dropped and swapped the diff for a discounted Fuji unit. Big mistake. Get the torsen. Save up for it. 100% recommend this subwoofer placement. Depending on your passengers, get a second one. The rumblies are amazing. And invisible. Car broke down. Hat to take the valve cover off. Painted it. NOW WE'RE TALKING And then it was like this for a while. Most of 2019 really.When doing a turbo, order éverything before you break up the car. Do a mockup outside the car. PLEASE. I had to wait for fittings 2 weeks every time I discovered missing one. Ordered éverything double, so the next turbo build in the club would be way more managable. And it was. Kinda like this Making boost These are too big. They don't fit. I had to trim the rings so they could slot into each other. Feelsbadman. But then it all comes together. With a coolant reroute added in for good measure. Oh f**k yes. Oh f**k no. Coolant hose popped. Learned a LOT about stainless fittings. Towing your MX-5 Project with your Prelude Daily. This happened more than I'd like to admit. Love that Honda's butt tho. Fixed it. Boosted and zoomed at 0,5 bar for a while. Little bro's 1998 in the background. s**t. The fuji turned to crisps. Torsen Time! Bought one with a broken holder. Swapped my fuji out of mine, and this one in. Oh, so the brakes áren't supposed to make that kind of a racket all of the time? New calipers all around, new (cheap) pads in the rear. Are we leaking oil yet? We're leaking oil. (Current problem, hope it's not the pump/pan. Did the front main, but not the cam seals.) Wheels are straight now, with fresh rubber And welcome to today. Sneak peek of the daily deck.

I'll see if I can remember to measure the PVC piping I used. I think it's a real nice compromise-size, although it just barely doesn't fit a 1,5L coke bottle. Since I have some more door-panels lying about, I might do a few more to get a nicer finish. It's kind of globby right now, as I wanted to make sure I had enough structural integrity. Might use a different glue next time, or just less. Not shown on the pictures but kind of important, I used the cut-out flap of plastic to make a bottom to the cup holder. I cut the two verticals with a figure saw, then scored the plastic across with a knife 3/4 times, and bent the plastic. Then scored the other side and it came off with a few wiggles. I used a marker to draw the half-round shape with the pipe as a guide, angle grindered the plastic, filed it smooth(er). Test-fit, drew a line where the door comes in, cut that side flat, file smooth. then glued it on the bottom unceremoniously.

So, I got myself a nice deck with some Rover interior parts. But I'm not so hot on the Wood trim and gray. So I went and stripped the doors, and painted them. And I wrapped the trim. Add a dash of cheap spraypaint I then discovered, there are no real options for cup holders in the MB civic. The ones in the center console are kinda s**t. So I made my own. Put it all together Fit it to the door, and do a testfit Et voila. Cup holder. Just the other side to go. (Still waiting for parts before I close up that door.)

https://photos.app.goo.gl/MsutwcJSXL3uitoUA Here's a video of the headliner lights in action.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/MsutwcJSXL3uitoUA Here's a video of the headliner in action.

Currently working on this. Got the roof in but haven't taken pictures of the result yet. It's worth it. This is a 430 strand kit (I broke about 10). This is with just the sun backlighting it. About the glue. GET SPRAY GLUE.The 3M automotive headliner stuff works great in my opinion. I tried contact glue before that, but that would just gum up on the surface and saturate the fabric.

Hey! I was in the same boat as you. Ended up wrapping the trim pieces Chameleon blue/purple, and painting the leather and plastic matte black (with BLACK graffiti paint). I used the wrong paint, so the plastic got sticky. Redid it with different paint (this time black gloss), and it' s great now. Still looking to do them over again with black matte. I also recovered the headliner with some aliexpress foam-backed black cloth. 30 for the material, 80 in glue. Awful experience, but a great result if you take your time. I didn't, and accidentally soaked the foam in glue in some places, while leaving other pieces unglued accidentally. I'll start posting more pictures when the car is further back together. It's currently in a project-state.