SirPaperbag

Small update on the whole brake prop valve situation: Apparently, EG6 prop valves could also work, as they don't have ABS and 262/242mm rotors in the front and rear, just like our M-chassis Civics. So, if that's true, you could get a brand new valve for less than $200 from Japan. Part number for these bad boys is 46210-SR3-013 And you should be fine sticking with your original brake master cylinder + booster! But if you've got 242mm discs all around instead you'd need a "1725" valve (46210-1725-XXX) off a Del Sol, not off an EE/ED/EF Civic! (Different f/r rotor sizes)

Might have to get a bit more specific with those questions. But generally speaking, EG and Integra suspension parts are usually compatbile. But there is a great compatibility list on this page which should help you out for now. Sadly I can't help you out with your steering wheel lock, never had anything happen like that to me.

Got some from Climair installed rn, and they fit very well. They're still available brand new. Only thing I had to do is grind off a bit of the holding tab in the front (was a bit too long) but that's completely normal with these things. And you can even choose between clear, tinted, and dark, which I find quite nice.

The part about needing new trailing arms is 100% correct, as the drum brake ones lack the proper mounting points for a disc brake system. But you've got to be careful with which arms you choose, as the wrong ones could end up increasing your rear trackwidth and that's gonna end badly for your handling. As our M-chassis have borrowed a lot of suspension components from 5th gen Civics (EG), I'd recommend searching for EG5/EG6/etc. trailing arms, as they should keep everything in spec. I for one got a pair of EG5 arms to go with my non-ABS system. But that's only part of the problem. If you've somehow managed to get yourself the right trailing arms then you still have to find a matching brake proportioning valve (or prop valve) that splits the pressure correctly between front and rear. Otherwise your rear brakes might either not bite enough, or bite too much and cause the rear to kick out while braking (very dangerous). This is especially important if you've got something like an MOT or TÜV here in Germany, where your car gets an inspection every X years and they check your brake performance. M-chassis Civics also use an old style of prop valve, which makes it EVEN HARDER to find the correct ones. What you generally want to get is called a "4040" valve, which is just the model number, nothing more (some dumbasses online claimed those valves split 40/40, but where the hell would the remaining 20% go?) I also found a nifty table somewhere on an obscure forum, and I don't know where exactly I got it from, so I sadly can't attribute the original poster, but here it is: And depending on the caliper sizing, you might even have to upgrade your master cylinder, but that's getting really technical. So, in short, get the correct trailing arms, a somewhat correct prop valve and maybe upgrade your master cylinder. If you want to do it properly, it's a whole lot more work than just doing enough for it to work. Pro Tip: You can also fine-tune your front/rear balance by using more or less aggressive pads. And regarding rear ARBs, you've got a choice between either buying some used EG6 brackets, using aftermarket ones, and reinforcement braces with mounts included. I went with a used EG6 ARB, plus mounting hardware, because I wanted to try out how much difference just that dingy little thing would make (a lot). Here are a few pics of it both installed, and some pics of the used mounting hardware. You also need fitting lower control arms with mounting holes for the endlinks. And I'd recommend buying new endlinks while you're at it. And maybe a few harder rubber bushings on top. I also had to fabricate some small metal standoffs for the mounting bracket to properly fit to the rear frame (top right picture, the screw just above the yellow marking). This would be the alternative, a rear brace with mounts included: But some places also carry aftermarket versions of the OG hardware that I mentioned and shower earlier, so that's an option, as well. All in all, it's a s**t job with tons of little hang-ups, researching, browsing marketplaces and painful installation, but the handling difference is night and day.

With ECU stuff OBD1 really is the way to go, because whether or not you decide to chip it or put an S300 in it, it's basically the best choice to use an old OBD1 ECU. I've actually got a S300 installed in my Civic right now and since it's a pre-facelift it already was OBD1 from the factory. But OBD1 conversions are relatively easy and well documented online. Depending on your personal tastes you could also go with a standalone ECU like a Link or Haltech unit. They cost roughly the same as a S300, but offer a very different featureset and more modern management options. (But they are not plug-and-play) And while I don't have any experience turboing cars, I'd say a relatively safe power figure for a D16 would be 160 to 180-ish hp. (Those conrods are thin) Already took apart a spare D16Z6 that I bought this summer, as I plan to completely rebuild it for a high comp NA build, and when I held those tiny little spaghetti-conrods in my hands I almost couldn't believe that those suckers manage to survive regularly hitting 7500RPM!

Basically any D-Series manifold will fit all kinds of engines out of that particular family. Except D17s, those are "special" (aka the worst engines Honda ever made). Got a 4-2-1 header myself that I bought when my car still had the stock D14 in it and it directly fit my D16Z9 without any modifications. And I can attest to the rust concerns - my rear arches were pretty bad (but still manageable) when I got mine, the front corners where the fenders meet the sideskirts were rotten through and the rear corners are also slowly starting to bloom, as well. Definitely make sure to check those spots when you've got the time! Oh, and your distributor is probably going to die at some point. All of them do, it's kind of inevitable. Do yourself a favor and don't get one of those repro units when it finally goes out - Blueprint and Yingzhen and whatnot units are all Chinesium garbage. The only high-quality replacement I could find was one of those rather tacky sounding "Dragon Fire" units, but quality-wise they are pretty much OEM+, made in the US (not China), and even provide a stronger spark than the stock dizzys do. Other than that, welcome to the club! :)

A faulty vaccum line or a bad IACV could very well be the reason for all of your problems. Bad vacuum line / IACV -> more air gets into the engine -> lean mixture That explains the slow rev-downs because the extra air works like a stuck throttle and also explains the timing being pulled in higher RPMs due to a lean mixture. Your engine is definitely being fed too much air, and it has to get in there somehow. Now the fun begins - searching for a leak. I'd recommend checking your intake system with (low pressure) pressured air and soapy water that nicely foams up where the air leaks out of your system. I don't envy you, searching for mechanical gremlins is always a s**tty job. Especially on modified cars. Start in the obvious areas, the easiest explanation is often the correct one. And check your gaskets, too! Good luck brother

I have actually used both Rainsport 5 and the AD08RS tires, so I think I'll just throw my two cents in here. The Rainsports are literally a 10/10 in the rain - I once drove on the Autobahn during a heavy rainstorm with around 130kph and I didn't get even the slightest bit of aquaplaning at all! But their dry grip is not the best to be honest. They tend to understeer and 'smeer' during cornering, so maybe a 7.5/10 in that category. The AD08RS are also very good in 'bad' (rainy) conditions - I'd give them an 8/10 in that regard, they grip quite well in the wet for semi-slicks. When I went over to my mates' to put the new tires on my wheels it was still early February and quite the rainy evening, but the brand new tires didn't feel slippery or dodgy in those cold and wet conditions at all! (Around 5-7°C and quite a lot of rain) Their dry grip is in a completely different league as well - the car feels like driving on rails compared to the old Rainsports. On my usual B-roads there were a few corners that always felt a bit dodgy/understeery when I took them with 100kph, but the Advans give me nothing but confidence! So, my recommendation for you would be the AD08RS. Their dry grip is almost perfect in my opinion and they are good enough in the rain, especially if it's mainly a dry-weather car. (And I use them for my daily, so...) Plus a few pictures comparing the fitment (same tire sizes for both of them):

Well, if you install a lighter flywheel you reduce the engine's inertia, aka its ability to keep going even if you lift off the throttle pedal. It makes the engine snappier and more responsive, but at a cost. If you have a light enough flywheel (let's say below 4kg) and an additional load like an AC compressor or the generator suddenly requires more power from the engine because the AC kicked on or a high electrical load was switched on it can actually upset/lower the engines RPM enough to stall it. That used to be pretty common knowledge, but all-motor tuning has gotten less and less popular so it makes sense for this kind of knowledge to get lost. No biggie. My recommendation would be to either re-install a heavier flywheel (cheapest option), or to get a programmable ECU (expensive) where you can increase the IACV's duty cycle to compensate for the engine's lower inertia (Hondata lets you do that as an example). Keep in mind that is only the culprit for your problems if your AC system is not faulty, but considering the fact that you compressor was recently changed and the system consequently recharged, leaks are most likely out of the question. (If the work was done by a competent mechanic) That's because the system (should) be pressure-checked for a few minutes before they put the new gas/liquid in, so it should be leak-free.

Wanted to give a small update on that particular issue. If albeit a late one. Just in case someone else reads through this thread at some point and encounters the same issue with any other kind of short shifter. As it turned out, the vibrations came from the uniball joint of the shifter itself, just as I suspected. By design, uniball joints always have a little bit of play in them and that created the rattle noise. But the harder bushings definitely were a major factor here, as well. I dribbled a bit of chain/machine oil into the base and after two or three applications the rattling completely stopped! :D You know, the kind that's very thin and oily at the start but quickly gets more sticky and viscous as it reacts with the air? That stuff also makes great chain lube for motorcycles, btw. ;)

You've basically got yourself a unicorn right there. Pre-facelift MA Metallic grey color Factory fog lights Factory spoiler without a third brake light in the rear window And that badgeless grille looks pretty sweet! Had a pretty similar idea a while ago, just didn't get around actually doing it yet... Welcome to the club! :D

Took the time to do some more work on the ole Fastback today and installed a nice upgrade for the interior. The object in question being a very nice short shifter from Hybrid Racing and a set of stiffer shift-linkage bushings from Hardrace. The installation was pretty straightforward - take off the interior trim that surrounds the shifter, undo a few bolts and take out the b*tch pin, take off the old shifter and replace all the original parts with the shiny new ones. Even the rubber gasket went on there relatively easily, with a bit of lubrication of course ;) And the finished product looks like this: Had to take out the small plastic ring out from the top of the shifter boot to be able to install the 'swan neck' part of the shifter on top of it, but I really like the way it looks (and feels)! The biggest hold-up was the size of the hole where the shifter bolts onto the shift linkage. Had to take off some material or otherwise I'd have to choose between either only having gears 1 through 4 or gear 3 through reverse. Nothing bad though. File down, reinstall, take off again and file down a bit more and boom - bob's your uncle. There are still some vibrations to chase down, but nothing a bit of lubricant/machine oil can't fix. All in all, I'd say it was a huge upgrade for the driving experience - it's super notchy and rowing through the gears almost feels like racking a gun at times. I'd give the shifter itself a solid 9/10, feels well built, installation is straightforward and well documented by Hybrid Racing, they give you all the hardware you need and you don't have to damage or reuse old components (except filing down that linkage hole, but that's a M-chassis issue only).

It seems you might be missing some kind of plastic cowling / housing that would go around the fogs inside of the bumper hole. And I can only speak for pre-facelift models here, but the OEM fogs would be attached from the backside of the bumper where there are a bunch of sturdy mounting points for the screws to bite into. That's the part I'm talking about, btw - that plastic trim around the projector.

I don't think he's got a Hondata, cause they provide you with a bunch of basemaps. My best bet would be either on the Hondata forums, or over at the folks who use Daemon and the likes. Strongly doubt that someone on this site would have a map for a D15 readily available.

If you want to prevent the crank from turning, for example to undo the crank bolt, then you can either get a special tool (see picture), or undo the dust protection plate for the clutch and either jam a sturdy screwdriver or something else against the teeth on the flywheel to keep it in place. But that bolt is often super tight (>200NM torque), so beware when you go for the flywheel route!

So, did a good bit of work to the car again. This time I installed a proper mounting bracket for the cold air intake as the old hacked-off and jury-rigged intake mani bracket looked pretty bad, to be honest. Also installed a pair of much more serious sounding horns than that little beeper that the car came with. They sound a lot better than the OEM one did, and are quite a bit louder on top! After that I installed a set of new bumper screws - the original ones were completely rusted and cruddy, and one almost stripped completely when I took that bumper off! Then I got to work on my seat-project. As I said in my last post - the original seats make me sit a bit too high for my own tastes and I have been looking for either some high-quality (road legal) seat rails for aftermarket seats from either Recaro or some other brand, or a completely different way to sit lower than the original seats would allow me to. As it turns out ... you can fit CRX seats on the original M-chassis rails if you drill out the rivets and fabricate an adaptor plate out of steel (10mm thick in my case). I got lucky a few years ago and managed to take a pair of these seats off a guy for jsut 250 bucks total. :) Here's how the first prototype looks like: This was only to take a look and see if my idea could even work to begin with, and if it would make me sit lower than the OEM seats would, but as luck would have it ... this combo works flawlessly and I sit about 5 to 8 centimetres lower than I do in the stock seats! :D They are also quite a bit more comfortable, if a bit worn-out. Real plushy. :) But as things stand right now I'll just make a few more refinements to my adaptor brackets, give those seats a thorough cleaning session and maybe add some more side bolstering to give them a bit more of a sporty feel and I've got myself a nice pair of OEM Honda seats that do exactly what I want from them! :D

I fitted an EG6 rear ARB last year, using the 'same' OEM mounting hardware as you probably do. (They were pretty rusty before I restored them) In my case, there were small pre-drilled (and tapped!) holes next to the lower control arm mounts (center of the car) that I just cleaned up before I installed the brackets. But if I remember correctly, I indeed had to drill a pair of holes for one of the brackets' mounting points. I also used some sturdy metal tubing as spacers between the frame and the mounts to reinforce everything. Also, you gotta have a pair of rear lower control arms that actually have the required holes to fit your ARB to! And a bit of friendly advice on top - don't go with an ARB thicker than 15 or 16mm, because everything above that is going to tear our and completely wreck your rear frame without any reinforcement done to it to take the brunt of the force. Hardrace, Beaks and loads of other companies sell those kinds of reinforcement braces, some of which even come with their own mounting points for your ARB! :) Here is how everything looks now: Hope I could be of help! :)

So, a few boxes full of fun-parts arrived yesterday... :D I'm still trying to find a good machining shop to get a port and polish, a valve-job and to get the rotating assembly properly balanced, but things are slowly progressing on the new engine build. It's going to be unconventional for sure, but I'm going to be fully building an N/A D16Z6 that I've bought for this project. Forged conrods, high compression pistons, stage 2 camshaft, lightened flywheel, the whole nine yards. I've also done some test-fitting already and it seems that the 'LITE'-series of conrods from Skunk2 doesn't require any notching of the block to fit, which is a huge win in my book! Though I had to cobble together a pseudo-piston from a few pieces of plastic and foam for the test-fit, as the pistons I bought are .5mm oversize and I haven't had the block bored out yet. Worked super well, though! But I'm super stoked to see what kind of power gain this is going to get me, and especially how high I'll be able to rev it. Components-wise it should be fine up to 9.000 or even 10.000 RPM, but we all know that it probably won't make much or even any power up that high in the rev-range. Based on my research into other all-motor D16 builds and B20 builds I'm confident that it should definitely hold up to 9.000 relatively comfortably, as many people in the states rev their stock-rod B20s that high without much issue, running only ARP rod-bolts and nothing else. (B20 engines have the same stroke as D16s, btw) It's going to be a while until things get moving properly, but the first step has been taken and all that's holding me back right now is finding that machining shop! :D Some folks are probably going to ask why I would take a D16 that far instead of just going B-Series, and I'm going to answer that by telling you that a B-Series swap costs around four to five thousand Euros where I live. If you can even find one... That's a lot of money for just a stock engine and trans. And it's also why I'm going to spend about the same amount of money to build a D-Series that is going to make roughly the same power, as well. I simply want a built engine. Simple as that. I've always wanted to build a proper all-motor engine and I finally got the chance, both time- and money-wise to do so, and I'm going to do it! :D I've also been doing some research into getting a road-legal bucket seat, or any kind of seat to be honest, because the stock seats are just too high for my tastes and I constantly have to lean forward when I'm stopped at a red light. Someone else on this forum already made an extremely helpful post about the seat rails from Planted Technology, which helped me immensely, but I've also found a local engineering company here in Germany which is able to fabricate everything in-house and even get it entered into the car's paperwork the legitimate way. That comes with its price though... Well, anyways. That's the current state of my project. See ya 'round!

Had the same issue a while ago. Engine ran fine and then suddenly - dead. You could even see the tach have a seizure a few moments before the engine died. My only fix was to get a new complete dizzy, as they don't sell just the pickups/sensors inside of them. Even a whole new coil and ECM module didn't help and I even tested out a different ECU altogehter. The problem is that most aftermarket dizzys for our Hondas are ... hot garbage, to be honest. If you buy a cheap-ish one, you'll quickly find yourself ordering the next one sooner than later. The only quality brand I've seen is based in the US, by the name of "Dragon Fire". I know, sounds kinda iffy, but their stuff even meets the IATF standard, meaning it really is better than all of that Chinesium-garbage off eBay, and I've been running it for almost half a year now without complaint! Costs a pretty penny, though. :/

Finally got around to installing my Hondata and let's just say that I might have been a little nervous when I turned that ignition key for the first time, hah! But everything went well, and I now have a running, chipped D16Z9 engine, woohoo! It might be running richer than Jeff Bezos at a marathon for now, but a few good street-tuning sessions are going to take care of that. And I'm talking Lambda-0.8-at-idle-rich; Even a few seconds of cold-start are enough to make the whole courtyard reek of marzipan. Sadly I barely had any seat-time during the past few months, as the bane of every D-Series owner struck - ignition problems. It started as a random ignition stutter (rev-counter visibly took a dip) that quickly ended in a complete engine shut-off on my way home from work, and the car refused to turn back on again for at least five minutes after the initial shut-off. But it weirdly enough acted as if nothing happened when it did decide to work again. Spent a few weeks hunting down the issue, buying a new igniter, new coil, the whole nine yards, but the issue persisted. I suspected that the sensors inside of the dizzy might be the problem and looked up part numbers, but quickly found out that those are not sold separately. Dang it. That's when I went "F*k it, I'm gonna buy a whole damn new distributor." But, as it turns out, 99.9% of aftermarket dizzys for D-Series are hot garbage and people always have to buy new ones as they break down faster than you can say K-Swap. That's chinesium for ya... So I looked at those funny looking "Dragon Fire" -ones, which I admittedly didn't take seriously at first, and through their homepage I found out that they actually meet the IAT standard - Success! If something meets that standard, it's at least not as crappy as all of those cheapo replicas from China. The car has been running fine ever since and even gained a bit of torque down low! :D [A few weeks later...] Last weekend it was finally time for yet another small addition, as I finally grew tired of the original pedals and imported myself these beauties straight from the land of the rising sun. The instructions might be slightly difficult to read, but at least they included some pictures. And, well, installing pedals is kind of self-explanatory, y'know? Quick peek at them, straight out of the box. The installation process is actually super easy, as taking off the OEM accelerator-plastic is the most difficult step in my opinion. But with a small-ish flathead screwdriver and a little bit of convincing you can lift the plastic nose on the top and then just slide it off! After that, simply remove the plastic strips from the double-sided adhesive, set the covers in place and attach the small metal clamps that screw through the pedal covers to sandwich the pedal between the little clamps and the covers. This is what the finished product looks like. :) The clutch and brake pedal have that extremely grippy texture to them, which looks to be some kind of metal foam that has been injected into the frame. (Has even more grip than skateboard-tape!) Oh, and heel-and-toe has gotten a lot easier, as these pedals are a bit fatter than the OEM rubbers. All in all - way too expensive, but worth it. Mmm, take a look at that close-up.