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  1. I have an 1999 honda civic sport (mb2) and want to install a cold air intake but i cant seem to find any. the ones i have found (from sk imports) dont appear to have anywhere to install the airflow censors as far as i can see and the description is very vague thanks in advance :)
  2. my d14z4 intake manifold broke so i would like to put another one that wasn't plastic. what other intake manifold are compatible?
  3. Hi all, been a while since I've been on the forums, not sure if people still use them but I'll try my luck anyway. So I have an mb6 vti in which the original b18c4 engine was removed due to bottom end knock. I stored the car away until I find a replacement engine. Fast forward 2 years, progress has been really slow due to covid, losing job etc other commitments in life so I've been driving eg civic which was d16z6 auto, I recently broke the car due to failing mot on rust. Still not able to get a replacement b18c4 engine due to too much going on in life, I came up with an idea what if I do d16z6 swap in mb6, I know it sounds silly but it's not a hard swap considering it is obd 1 vtec and I just wanted to get the car moving as I hated it been sat there doing nothing. So I actually went and fitted the d16z6 into the mb6. Was pretty much an easy swap, got the car started too. Only issue is the speed sensor plug does not fit because it is for auto and now I've got manual gearbox. I used the manual gearbox from mb2 and used clutch and flywheel. However I have an issue with the car not engaging into gear. I'm able to select gears but the car won't move, not even at bite point, doesn't even stall if I let off clutch pedal in gear. Would this be due to using a used clutch kit because I'm sure I was told I can use it. It was only meant to be a temp solution until I get the car moted and sort everything else out and then do a proper build such as turbo. I really hate having to take off the gearbox again and possibly again to fit uprated clutch kit depending car passes mot. What could be the issue?
  4. I tried to change the original PCV valve with a new aftermarket one (cheap). It was hard to remove the old one and it cracked in two pieces. I got it all out eventually while very frustrating. Putting the new one was surprisingly hard too. I did attach it to the hose surprisingly easily but it was hard to press the new valve back into the hole. There's no space so hard to apply any strengh. I'm not sure if it's all the way down. It looks pretty good but i think it could be a little off. The aftermarket valves rubber part was a bit longer than in the old OEM one. Maybe that makes it hard too. Anyway tried to start the car after all the work and i think the idling is a bit off. It could be running lean or rich if i installed it wrong... There is some smell and exhaust gas smells a bit rich too although i always had trouble with emissions/car running too rich. Also the car is using oil so that's also the reason for trying to change pcv valve. I haven't test driven yet but i'm afraid i could've made things worse. Might have to take the car to a car mechanic. Tried to save some money by doing it myself because the valve is in a bad spot in these engines as you may know. Is it harmful to the engine if i installed it badly? Is running rich or lean harmful to engine? When i pressed the gas pedal at idle it didnt sound healthy/strong. Choking sounds and hesitating sound but the pedal feel was normal. Should i try to drive the car or let someone take a look?
  5. I have Mb6 civic. What is the size of that small rubber hose from valve cover to the breather tube? its connected with small clamps from both ends like in the picture (not my car). I had aftermarket air intake from preavious owner and trying to replace it with Integra oem air intake. What size in mm. and is it same size from both ends?
  6. Just purchased a k20 aerodeck, when you start it from cold you have to prime the fuel pump twice as its still got the standard pump in. So when you key on, it doesn't prime the fuel enough so means it cranks over for longer, but if your key in and off twice, then it builds enough. Am I right in thinking king if I fit a walbro 255 pump then it'll be able to prime enough on the first key? As its a bigger, more power pump Thanks in advance
  7. Hi there, For many years I noticed that our Civic 5Dr MB2 ‘98 takes about 8 turns of the starter motor to start the engine when key is turned if you know what I mean. I always felt that’s too long and something must be up? I’ve recently replaced the distributor entirely but the slow starting is still there and I replaced the ignition leads probably 10 years ago and again that made no difference. the car has done 70k, could the slow starting be due to value clearances being out causing low compression? I don’t think it’s ever been adjusted. It’s still slow to start hot or cold though. thanks
  8. Hello just wanted to ask if anyone has been working with placing electric exhaust flap (or valve ?) on mb3 body with stock like exhaust.
  9. Pavao

    MA9

    Hi folks, i have MA9 (d15z3 1.5 vtec-e 95') i am looking to sawp it with transmission to something with more power, what would be the easy swap with litle work
  10. Feels like it is going to be itr cam time soon, and thinking about gaskets. I think I know the answer to this, but worth asking the question.... Stick with oem honda gaskets, or are after market ones any good? Honda head gasket kit from tegiwa is £215 https://www.tegiwaimports.com/genuine-honda-upper-head-gasket-kit-b-series-b18c4.html Full rebuild kit from Japserviceparts is £108, but not honda parts. https://japserviceparts.co.uk/product/honda-civic-vti-b18c4-full-engine-rebuild-gasket-kit/
  11. Hi all, need some advice as I think I have made things worse. Was happy about getting the mb6 back out on the road after being stood for years. Long story short, car started up fine with jump start and I took it for a run for 10 miles and all seemed good, no funny noises from engine. I thought I'd give it an oil and filter change so started the car and let it run for 10 mins then gave it a gentle rev, heard a weird squealing noise from the timing belt area which found to be the timing belt rubbed against the plastic cover and shredded into millions of pieces. Checked the timing marks and all seemed good, belt did not jump which was a relief. Problem started when I fitted new belt as I forgot to put spring on tensioner, and I rotated the crank counter clockwise 3 times as stated in the manual not realising that the crank had jumped two teeth from tdc. I put everything back together then started the car, it did struggle to start and when it start, the engine was knocking, I must've let it started for about 10 seconds then turned it off as I knew something was not right. This is when I realised that the timing belt was put wrong by myself. So now I'm worried whether I have caused any damage, like bent valves or even damaged piston. I don't have a clue how to take the head off myself but I was told I can take the spark plugs out and rotate the crank manually to see if there is any knock/slap noise but I'm not certain is this is quite the way to tell for a bent/damaged valve or piston. I'm still learning these engines but now I'm s**tting myself, I made things worse :(
  12. As the title suggests. Anyone changed the standard VTi airbox with a DC2 Type R and is it worth it? Cheers.
  13. Am I right that the D Series SOHC engines fitted to the MB Civics are designed in the following way? As far as I can tell, the valve cover needs to be removed in order to remove the top timing belt cover? I have changed a timing belt in the past on a SOHC D Series engine. I had changed the valve cover gasket before. I noticed at the time that the valve cover had to be removed in order to remove the plastic timing belt cover. While the valve cover was off, I removed the plastic cover and ground off the lip that fits into the slot on the valve cover. That way, when the belt was due, I was able to remove the plastic cover without needing to break the valve cover seal. It also allows the timing belt to be easily checked for condition without needing to remove the valve cover. I have seen aftermarket clear plastic timing belt covers pictured on the internet before. While that seemed like a good idea, I would think that it would soon get dirty on the inside. I also wonder how long they would last before the clear plastic turned cloudy. As an aside, what is the secret to getting a lasting seal on the valve cover gasket? I used a new gasket with sealant only at the corner points of the camshaft bearing cap at both ends. This was recommended by a Haynes manual. The seal lasted a couple of years but eventually started leaking oil from the corners of the end cam caps. Thanks for any information.
  14. Hello folks. I'm having a bit of trouble trying to fit my oil cooler. I have the cooler mounted and everything I need to do the job and also plumb in all my gauges aswell. I'm using a thermostatic mocal sandwich plate to feed the cooler but there doesn't seem to be any room to mount it. Iv seen plenty of install guides and videos of doing it and no one seem to have trouble fitting the plat. But on the b18c4 there just seems to be no room around it. You can get the plate on but there is no room for fittings and the hoses to go. There seem to be more hoses and random lines on the back of a b18c4 block than any other engine from pics iv seen. Has anyone else managed to fit one and how did they do it? Thanks
  15. Hello guys, I'm new user from Italy (sorry for bad English). I need help to understand what is happening on my mother's car, 138.000 km engine model D14A2 Some issues started after a routine maintenance on the engine; engine head, cam belt and water pump have been changed. If I am not wrong these components are all exchanged during this checks. After many km (don't know exactly how many) the engine were not able to keep reach and maintain the normal temperature because of an issue with the thermostat (in fact petrol consumption was anomalous). The mechanic changed the thermostat and a new issue has appeared immediately. The temp gauge begun to failed to measure the correct engine temperature. The gauge was moving up to 1/4 of the gauge scale instead of moving just before half scale. I took the car back to the mechanic but he wasn't able to fix the issue. He checked the engine and said that it was ok. He told me to do not worry about a false reading. At that moment I understood that he was not able to fix it (or maybe he didn't want to spent time on an old car and moving on other cars more profitable) and I thought to fix by myself the issue and also save money from that mechanic (which caused more issue then fixes). I made many searches on internet to fix the issue by myself. First I replaced the ECT sensor (the one with the o-ring) but unfortunately the issue was still there. Then I checked the ECT gauge sending unit (by following the instruction from the Honda service manual); I put to ground the yellow green wire that connects the sensor to the gauge and turned on the car switch to position III. The gauge started to move to the H mark very fast. I turned off the switch before it were going to reach the H mark (as the manual warned). That allowed me to check if the issue was on the gauge itself or on the sensor. So I decided to buy another ECT gauge sending unit. I bought the replacement part directly from Honda (80 euros); then I mounted it on the car. The original component has been broken during the disassembly. Unfortunately the issue is still there but (and this is what is also makes me even more crazy) now the gauge reads an higher engine temperature; in fact it goes up around 3/4 the scale. Anyway the engine temperature is ok; in fact the pipeline from the radiator to the engine can be touched with the hands when the engine is on and the radiator fan does not turn on in normal condition. I haven't checked yet if it start turn on under workloads but I think it works. Coolant level seems ok to me. So... any suggestions on how to fix the issue??? Please help me!!!
  16. Hi got a crack in manifold on my D16W4 1.6 SOHC VTEC, are there any replacement manifolds on other civics, old or later, that will fit, like D14Z4 for example? Thinking of looking for 2nd hand or scrappers. or do I have to go down the SS route from eBay?? thanks.
  17. Hello I was wondering about this and wanted to ask if anyone tried it ?
  18. I'm looking at swapping out my 1.4 for potentially a F20B6 motor, I'm new to this and was wondering how possible this is and where I could get engine mounts from and would my trans bolt to it or would I need to swap a different one into it? Really need help as I have a motor planned and money ready I just need to make sure this isn't a mistake Thanks
  19. I dont know if these 2 are related but today went out and heater didnt even come on at any speeds so i thought yeh heater resister it must be....ive replaced one in previous civic and its easy i know, although that was cos it didnt work on speeds 1 & 2 more commonly but this time its gone completely. Whats more worrying to me now is and im hoping its nothing major, is that later that day i went in the car wash and noticed the temp needle very slowly creeps up past the normal half way mark.... at first i really thought my eyes are playing with me but later i tried again by letting it idle and it did the same thing again. I checked the lower and upper hoses and they were both hot so not sure wat this is but please tell me this is just a bad thermostat?? Or is the failed heater causing this... Any help appreciated want to sort this soon my cars very well looked aftered all its life so bit worried. Thanks
  20. Hi, I have recently bought a 1996 N reg MA9 which I really like, has been lightly modded but I'd like it as stock as possible seeing as it is the eco model (already very impressed with the MPG for something so old, has done over 200 miles on 20quid of fuel) It has some kind of cheap aftermarket induction kit installed. Does anyone know where I can source a stock airbox for cheap? Or if anyone knows any other models that use the same airbox, can't find on internet (seems pointless having an induction kit on the economy vtec-e d15z3 engine and the MOT is soon and don't want it to fail on emissions)
  21. I want to introduce my lovely Pirat Black MB2. I bought it from the scrap yard for 300€. No working brakes,no working suspention,nothing...except the engine...the engine was like a new one.1,4 90hp 90k km. I startet with the brakes and the bushings. All new ones. So...The brakes was the first thing. New discs with new pads and two new calipers. The suspention was on second place. New bushings kit from Energy Suspention for the whole suspention. Koni shocks. I drived 70 000 km for two years. After that i take a desision that i have to change something with the engine. I read a lot of things about the minime set up(D14 block with Vtec head) But one sunny day a friend of mine send me a photo from a Del Sol(show off car) with only 70k on the clock. The engine-D16z6,the price 800€.Only the engine,the doors and the plastics of the car were not rotten.I boight the whole car for 800€ So i deside to put the engine in my car. Someone told me that is plug and play. Aaaaaaand it was not. I rewire the whole cables from the engine to the ECU. That was such a fun. But at the end it all went good. After that i thought that i could make some changes in the interior of the car. I put beige seats from Rover,black roof from alcantara(self made with my wife),arm rest from VTI I want to apollogise for my bad english. Be save and kick the vtec till the end
  22. HONDA CIVIC 'M' SERIES COMPATIBILITY DATABASE Civic5 accepts no responsibility for any inaccuracies or omissions from this database and all that STEERING AND SUSPENSION COMPONENTS *Wheel and tyre info....Stock ET is 45 for all M's (widest recommended rim with this et is 6.5" at r15? ). DC2 alloys need spacers to fit over 282 calipers *Springs and shock absorbers....Same as dc2/eg/ek/ej/400/45/zs. DC2 coilovers will need the Integra LCA. Matched springs and shocks are specific to the weight of the model so Aerodeck are different as are other civics or Integras. *Front upper wishbone....Same as dc2/eg/400/45/zs. EK is different the bushes are pressed into the arm. *Front lower wishbone....Same as dc2/eg/ek/ej/400/45/zs *Front hub carrier and balljoints....Same as dc2/eg/ek/ej/400/45/zs *Hubs....All M's use 4 x100 pcd hubs from contemporary civics except the MB6 which uses 4 x 114.3 (4.5") pcd hubs from the Integra and Prelude. *Front ARB....Same as dc2/eg/ek/ej/400/45/zs. To upgrade arb size you will need to change the body mounting bushes *Rear ARB....Same as dc2/eg/ek/ej/400/45/zs. To upgrade arb size you will need to change the body mounting bushes. *Front suspension bushings....Same as dc2/eg/ek/ej/400/45/zs *Track rod ends....Same as 45/400/zs *Steering rack...Same as 45/400 *PAS pump...Non Honda engined Rovers use flexible hosing (mounted on right of engine) *Rear trailing arm....Same as dc2/eg/ek/ej/400/45/zs. Drum versions can not be converted to disc. *Rear upper control arm....Same as dc2/eg/ek/ej/400/45/zs *Rear lower control arm....Same as dc2/eg/ej/400/45/zs. Some LCA's do not have a mounting for an ARB. *Rear toe adjuster....Same as dc2/eg/ek/ej/400/45/zs *Trailing arm (compliance) bush....Same as dc2/eg/ek/ej/400/45/zs *Rear suspension bushes....Same as dc2/eg/ek/ej/400/45/zs BODY PANELS AND LIGHTS *Front bumper....All different, to change MA to MB you also need to change bonnet (and front crossmember?) MB6 front lips will not fit the MA without modification. *Rear bumper....MB will fit MA *Sideskirts........MA/MB/45/400/ZS all fit the same mounting points. Vti-s and ZS180 having variations in style. *Front wings....All different *Bonnet....All different. *Bonnet catch and struts....MA/MB/45/400/ZS all same. Catch lever varies on MA. *Scuttle cover....MA/MB/45/400/ZS all same *Windscreen....MA/MB/45/400/ZS all same *Door glass.... MA/MB/45/400/ZS all same *Tailgate....MA/MB same apart from number plate surround. *Tailgate catch and struts....MA/MB/45/400/ZS all same, all standard struts will take the weight of the standard vti spoiler. *Doors.... MA/MB/45/400/ZS all same *Headlights.... MA/MB slightly different outer shape. There are no aftermarket headlights. *Taillights....MB fit MA, MB have clear indicators, MA amber. *Side repeaters.... MA/MB/45/400/ZS all same *Fog lights....MA and MB have slightly different surrounds? *Wing mirrors.... MA/MB/45/400/ZS all fit same, some electric, some manual *Sunroof.... MA/MB/45/400/ZS same. *Handles and other trim pieces.... MA/MB/45/400/ZS same apart from number plate surrounds/ rear light trims. INTERIOR *Front seats and rails....MA/MB/400/45/ZS same fitting. Other Honda seats will need modification to the rails. *Rear seats and rails....MA/MB same ZS will not fit. *Centre console....MA/MB/400/45/ZS same fitting. Some models have a centre arm rest that fits all M's *Dashboard....MA/MB/400/45/ZS same fitting. The MB6 vti-s has carbon dash inserts. *Steering wheel....MA/MB same MB6 has leather finish. Rover will fit but are trispoke so you will not be able to get rid of the Rover airbag and logo. (DC2 will fit with modification?) *Steering column....MA/MB/400/45/ZS same *Switches etc....MA/MB/400/45/ZS same *Instrument cluster....MA/MB/400/45 same. (ZS 180 and MB6 have different tacho's?) *Door cards....MA/MB/400/45/ZS same *Pillar trims....MA/MB/400/45/ZS same *Headlining....MA/MB/400/45/ZS same *Rear mirror....MA/MB/400/45/ZS same *Parcel shelf....MA/MB *Audio components....MA/MB/400/45/ZS same. The MB6 and some Rovers have better speakers and door tweeters that fit all M's. BRAKING COMPONENTS *Front discs....262 except MB6 which uses the 282 system. Some companies make 282 rotors to fit 4x 100 hubs (generally as an upgrade to EG civics) *Rear discs/drums *Front calipers....Single pot lucas 262 system. Same as 400/45/ZS/EG/EK. 282 for MB6. *Rear calipers....Same as 400/45/ZS/EG/EK/EJ. *Master cylinder....Same as 400/45/ZS/EG/EK/EJ.(?) Does the 'teg use this too? *Brake fluid.... *Brake hoses....Same as 400/45/ZS/EG/EK. Drum and disc versions are different. *Rear Disc backing plates part numbers. SMD000080  SMD000090 From RimmerBros (order for MGZS) Just checked still showing in stock around 25 each (as of 21/3/2020)  ECU AND ELECTRICAL OBD Loom/ aftermarket wiring Lamda IACV FIT VTEC controlers Fuses and resistors Battery Alternator D SERIES ENGINES- D14A2, D14A4, D14A3 (EDM), D14A8, D15Z1, D15Z8, D16B2, D16Y5. Engine mounts Sparkplugs Engine oil Oil filter Fuel filter Distributer HT leads Valves and valvetrain parts Cam Cambelt Cam gears Crank Pistons Con rods Intake Throttle body Intake manifold Radiator Fan Thermostat Coolant FI info B SERIES ENGINES- B18C4 Same sort of stuff TRANSMISSION COMPONENTS Shifter UJ Shift rod Extension rod Shift bushings Clutch Master cylinder Reservoir Release cylinder Gearbox Gearbox oil Driveshafts EXHAUST COMPONENTS Manifold....B and D series engines use a slightly different manifold Cat section....UKDM cat (different length from the JDM cat) Mid section....MA/MB all same (?) do rover fit? Backbox....MA/MB all same except Aerodeck which has a longer tail (?) There's probably a lot I've missed off, might be best to improve it as we fill out the list? We probably ought to have glossary for terms (stuff like DC2, EG, ITR, IM, PCD) to make it accessible for noobs and non Honda geeks
  23. Sooo... it's a third year in a row failing mot due to high emissions. This time it's running quite rich, lambda shows 0.6. Co% and HC about 10 tenfold past the limits. And can't seem to find the source. Here's my investigation so far: - no vacuum leaks - compression test ok - no visible leaks in exhaust system - plugs in need of change but nothing critical about their condition - plug wires ok - timing ok - ecu reseted - worn cap + rotor, a little bit of play in dizzy axle + dizzy a bit noisy = gonna replace distributor. But not in such a bad condition that would explain the richness. - coolant reservoir was empty, only a bit of dark brown muck on the bottom. At first thought it was oil, but when i rinsed it turned out was (atleast mostly) dirt etc. Discovered a small crack on the reservoir lid, might be a cause. Besides the reservoir no other clues pointing to a possibly leaking head gasket. Any ideas what to look for? One suggestion was that a faulty heat sensor etc. could be feeding the ecu wrong info and messing up the mix? Valve stem leak also one possible cause. In addition to the dizzy i'm planning on replacing the ecu with a p28 with Hondata to get better data about what's happening. And ofcourse once it's fixed, then it's tuning time .
  24. I've got a b18c4 tall engine and a s9b box sat around doing nothing. I was planning on keeping it to build but I cant see that ever happening. Engine smoked a little and used abit of oil the gearbox had a wine. Any ideas on what this would be worth?
  25. have a mb6 Everytime i switch car off there is a buzzing noise coming from under the brake servo. And this drains my battery. Its like a noise the fuel pump makes when u put ignition on. Can anybody advise what this could be
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