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Dexter

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Everything posted by Dexter

  1. Dexter
    Found a set with the same oe referencenumber with measurements of 25mm/83mm, i think i'll go with these.
  2. Dexter
    Okay got lucky and managed to get a bit of time on the lift at a friends workplace today and found out that the axle is about 26mm, inner joint 84-86mm. So the boot mentioined earlier (22/76mm) seems way too small. 4-10mm sounds like quite a bit of stretch, even for a rubber boot.
  3. Dexter
    Need to replace my inner cv boots, does anyone know for sure the measurements for these? I looked up the OEM part number from Lings (44017SR3900) and after some googling most (but not all) results pointed my in the direction of inner diameter 22mm / 76mm. Can someone verify this please? Thanks.
  4. Dexter
    Thanks Finch, i'll start with the smaller socket and some freezing spray... and very crossed fingers!
  5. Dexter
    I skipped this one. After a while of googling i couldn't find a website of any sort about them, only 2 tuning shops in the Netherlands that sell them. They do look like pretty much the rest of the cheap aftermarket rear camber kits, but this was just suspiciously cheap. Maybe i'd buy them for a low n' slow stancer, but the idea of testing them on the track became a bit too daunting.
  6. Dexter
    So i managed to destroy the bleed screw on my rear caliper. I was super careful, used a correct size brake spanner but it was just utterly seized, and now it's pretty round. Any top tips on how to remove it? I wouldn't want to replace the whole caliper.
  7. Dexter
    Any experiences with Us Racing suspension parts? I've got an opportunity to buy a set of rear camber arms for dirt cheap but need to act quick. The prices with the brand in question are pretty low to start with, so i'm a bit worried about quality since i occasionally track my deck.
  8. Dexter
    i've had all of the same fails on my deck as well... apart from the missing wheel nut!
  9. Dexter
    Nice burble . How is it on highway speeds, tolerable?
  10. Dexter
    Not a bad idea!
  11. Dexter
    Really? I had the same ones last year and got absolutely zero fade doing sessions of 5 to 8 hard laps in a row all day long! But after two track days like that the front pads were next to finished.
  12. Dexter
    Luvliness . And to be honest i didn't notice literally until now that you've deleted the roof rails! Always thought decks look a bit naked without them but you've proved me wrong! Had mine off for a while last year while machine polishing, toyed with the idea of ditching them but decided otherwise. I like the contrast they make with silver, but with a blue car it's not so distinctive. What did you use to fill the gaps?
  13. Dexter
    Nice pics, and good selection of upgrades in the bay!
  14. Dexter
    One thing i've been curious about but haven't yet experimented with is how usable or in other words safe "track use only"-pads are on public roads. But it seems like according to your experiences that atleast some of them are daily driveable as well? I've read lots of praising reviews about CL Brakes and am temped to buy their track pads...
  15. Dexter
    Let's bring this back up. I ended up buying slotted discs from Brake Depot, Ferodo DS2500 pads, Hel hoses, RBF600 fluid and a Tegiwa stopper. Needless to say there was quite a difference to stock and the feel was great on both street and track. But in the end the pads were second to bare metal after 2 long and hard track days. Was kind of hoping they'd last better but maybe the next step would be proper race pads? Well decided anyway to try out the EBC route since it seems like such a big & proper company, but their Yellowstuff pads were down to less than 50% after a relatively light track day. They probably won't last another one so i'm once again checking out new options. Race pads would be nice but i'm a bit intimidated using them in the city. I'm considering Stoptech Streets since they sell for a decent price, but other suggestions are welcome!
  16. Dexter
    Looking great as ever. Bet the trip was awesome. Hope to make it there one day myself!
  17. Dexter
    Upgraded my wax from Autoglym to Collinite, not bad! Fellow Honda Clubbers. A Helsinki summer evening. Opened up the rocker cover, this time to fix the infamous cam seal oil leak. Replaced OEM with Blox, so another addition to the modlist... Also changed the fuel filter. The hand brake needed some adjustment too but had to drill off the heads of those little b****rs, since no driver, regular or impact had any effect on them. Managed to tighten the handbrake but pressure is pretty uneven. Left side barely holds, while right side bites pretty quick. Any way to adjust them individually?
  18. Dexter
    That's quite impressive. Best i've got out of my MC2 is 6.69L / 100km, or 42 mpg. But taking into consideration that in the city i usually get only around 30 mpg i think 42 quite okay! And nice deflectors btw .
  19. Dexter
    Now that's some proper documenting. Good job, nice looking B18 MB2 .
  20. Dexter
    One more question, there seems to be different opinions about this: should i use hondabond or oil on the new seal? I've got a metallic aftermarket one with multiple o-rings.
  21. Dexter
    Same here. With the exception that i assumed and bought 2 BEFORE looking into it. Oh well, wasn't too expensive and i can always sell it. But thanks for the help Kink43 and Chandler, i'll get this done today.
  22. Dexter
    I would think so. I've bought Aeros for my lhd Aero from an Uk web store and they fitted just fine. If you're keeping the rest of the chrome on your hatch then the chrome wipers could work. Never seen anyone add chrome to a m, usually it's the other way, so interested to see the results if you decide to go down this route.
  23. Dexter
    So there's only a cam seal on the exhaust side, and on the intake side it's just a o ring?
  24. Dexter
    Need to replace leaking cam seal(s). Never done this before, so anything i should know in advance? I've got Hondabond and an accurate torque wrench. The rocker cover seal was replaced only half a year ago so i'm using the old one. I watched this video, looks pretty straightforward: In this one he only changes the exhaust side cam seal, and i've noticed some other people only change 1 cam seal as well when fixing a cam seal leak. My logic would say to replace both seals on the same go, but is this a) necessary and b ) possible without removing the distributor? I'm not even 100% sure if i've got leaks on both seals or only the exhaust side, it's hard to tell with all the bits in the way and oil spreading around engine.
  25. Dexter
    Oh yeah i also fitted new front pads: My old Ferodo DS2500's after 1,5 years and 2 hard track days: I was looking for long lasting daily driveable track pads but i guess those don't exist? So decided to try Yellowstuff, against some warnings, since i got them for a decent price. And sure enough they barely lasted one track day! Seriously they're down to a few millimetres at the moment. So for next time i'm thinking about buying proper race pads and fitting them at the track and replacing them at the end of the day back to stock. Extra hassle for sure, but might be worth it! When i go to the track i like to spend the whole day there anyway, and i've become pretty quick at changing pads. Not to mention the decrease in lap times proper race pads would make... i see myself being slowly dragged towards a season of Timeattack in 2017 .
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