Dexter

Perhaps the best looking deck in the world. Period.

Like there was no winter at all! That Gtechniq stuff is definitely worth it's reputation. True that. Now after 2 weeks they still feel like one of the best mods i've ever done, looks- and feelingwise. Just glancing at the passenger side while driving puts a smile on my face :).

Nice... i've got cams on my endless shopping list as well, have been thinking between oem B18C or Skunk2. Eager to hear how the engine feels like once you get them fitted.

This is what i'd do: Buy brake cleaner and (optional) brake lube and copper paste. Discs - clean the discs with brake cleaner. - gently sand the discs (hand or drill) to get most of the rust off, the rest will be removed by braking. Use fine sandpaper to avoid scracthing the discs too much. - if you have access to compressed air, use some to blow off the loose rust. Then clean them again thoroughly with brake cleaner. Caliper & pads - spray the caliper properly with brake cleaner and clean with a rag - remove the sliding pins, sand them very gently if they're rusty, and apply a thin coat of brake lube - remove the pads and retaining clips. Sand gently the retaining clips if they're rusty. - Put the clips back and make sure the brakes can move in the caliper. If the fit is too tight, first make sure the clips sit properly in the caliper. If the pads still feel tight, you can sand or file a bit off the top and bottom where they meet the clips. Once the fit is good, apply a bit of copper paste to the top and bottom where you just sanded. - Push the piston back, apply some copper paste to areas that will touch the pad and re-install the pad. I'm pretty sure this will cure your problem. Brake jobs are pretty easy once you've had a go at it. But i'd probably still start with just cleaning and sanding the discs, then go for a test drive and do some hard braking. If the grinding and squeaking continue (and/or you want to do this properly), then service the calipers and pads. Hope that helps!

I'm back! After a mot nightmare of 2 months, 5 checks and 10 different repair requirements the deck has been back on the road for a few weeks now, has seen track time and events and even obtained some long sought after upgrades... Too bad you can't see inside, because then you'd notice a pair or something with 6 letters, starting with a R and ending with a O in the cabin . Or then i can just post a picture: As soon as i passed mot, i once again, for the umpeenth time, searched for used Recaro Speeds for sale in Finland. And sure enough these had just popped up here in Helsinki! The first pair i've seen for sale in over a year so i didn't hesitate a bit. Picked up the phone, and managed even to shed a bit off the price and got them for a measly 350€ (£300). Fitment was a doddle thanks to m-civic specific rails i had bought already years ago. They're in pretty good condition taking into consideration they're over 20 years old, and i'm suprised how comfortable they are! Not to mention the lower sitting position and excellent thigh support. Track tested, heaps better than oem's. I had been dreaming about black Speeds (DC2 style) but those just aren't for sale over here, and i'm not ready to pay for international shipping. But now that i have these, i think the color combo is even better! One of the best upgrades i've ever done. Super happy . So i mentioned i had some mot issues? Well here's some of the things i had to fix: - dragging rear brake - rear brake pads - left rear abs sensor - dashboard lights - oil leak - handbrake - O2-sensor, dizzy cap and rotor - loose lower control arm bolts (happy he noticed those!) Last year passed with flying colours, needless to say i was a bit shocked this time! But at the end of the day, all of the things that needed attention weren't that big of a deal and i managed to fix everything by myself. I guess this is what it means owning a 18 year old car. But still every time i see it parked on the street i think "damn, if that wouldn't be mine, i'd be so jealous" .

Awesome looking deck, lovin' it.

Sorry my bad! The High CO% was cured by changing the O2-sensor. High HC was the rotor & cap.

After searching through my own build thread i realised that's it's been only a bit over 2 years since the rotor and cap were changed. So the only solution i can find for this is that the screw holding the rotor fell out. I replaced it today with a new one with a bit of loctite, let's hope it holds.

I failed MOT due to high CO and the path lead to a burnt distributor cap & rotor.

Since aftermarket leads tend be thicker than OEM, the plastic guide things for the leads end up being a pretty tight fit: I've had these Magnecor KV85's for 5 years now without problems, but since having some ignition related emissions problems (most probably due to burnt cap & rotor) i've been paying a lot more attention to this area lately. Do you think this could cause issues? Do other people still use them after fitting thicker leads?

If you find some for a decent price, let me know if you decide not to take them! I've been hunting a pair for a long time. And to answer your question i know a lot of people have fitted them and never heard anyone mentioning they'd be any bigger in size worth mentioning compared to oem, and in pictures seem to fit like they would've come out from the factory.

Well that's my bible and just flipped through it and can't find this! Only about spark plugs every 3 years. Maybe i'm getting old and blind :D?

Perhaps, and hope so!

Really? Never heard this being mentioned anywhere, i always thought they're things that are supposed to last on a Honda. But will be checking them more often definitely from now on.

Sorry meant 200 BHP ofcourse, 200whp would be pretty mad with those specs!

I also thought that hotter cams would be necessary. +30hp with intake + exhaust mods and remap sounds like a lot but the dyno paper speaks for itself... if you trust it. I reckon you're using a reliable tuner, @Viltor?

Looks really good. I'm yet to upgrade my im and have been looking at Skunk2, hoping to hit 200whp as well. What header are you using?

I failed MOT this year due to emissions. Got O2 under control by changing the lambda sensor, but HC was still high, so i started checking the ignition. And what did i find once i opened the distributor cap: The cap almost fell off since the screw wasn't holding it in place anymore. Needless to say i'll be replacing the cap and rotor, but what could possibly cause this? I'd like to prevent it happening again in the future. Some background info that might or might not help diagnosis: - the cap and rotor were replaced about 5 years ago (OEM) - leads were upgraded to Magnecor KV85 at the same go - i've been using NGK Iridium plugs. Checked them yesterday (looked fine) but still changed to regular Denso's. - about an year ago when i was replacing plugs i discovered oil in the plug wells. I cleaned the wells, replaced the seals along with the rocker cover gasket and thought problem solved but still found some oil in well nr. 1 yesterday when checking the plugs. Can't tell for sure if i just forget to clean it properly or if it's still leaking. - i found a tiny crack in the lead running to cylinder 1 (where the letter R is): - there might be slight cratering etc. in nr. 1 piston, the white spots i think is just light reflecting back. Unlike with the other pistons i just couldn't get a focused shot of it: What do you think? The car has been running totally smooth without any symptoms, only reason i checked was the failed HC during emissions check. But i'm glad i did.

Thanks Gel, i did find this already, but decided to choose a brand new Denso since i found a Finnish supplier who sold me one for 75€ (£59) including shipping.

Thanks doc! Lifesaver .

Hi, need this really quick! Can't find a B18C4 specific oxygen sensor. Denso DOX-1409 will fit a Civic VI B16 and a Integra Type-R B18 (among many others), so can i assume that it'll also fit my MC2? Tried googling quite a bit but can't find confirmation anywhere.

Front toe in/out is adjusted with the track rods so you'll always have that option regardless what suspension you have. If you want camber adjustment you'll need an adjustable front camber kit.

This was on the CL brakes UK web shop: "No anti rattle springs included - not suitable for general road use." @3gdean if you decide to go with CL's let me know how noisy they are on the road. After quite a lot of searching i'm leaning towards these for my next road/track day pad.

Hey i was just looking at CL brakes the other day! Which ones are you considering? Also interested in Axxis but can't find an european distributor.

@MBFinlayDid you manage to figure this out yet? If not, i'd like to link the best tool in the world for these kind of situations: willtheyfit.com .