Dexter
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Everything posted by Dexter
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Hi, Despite thorough research i can't seem to find a definitive answer to this: which OBD is B18C4, and do i need a conversion harness to install a obd1 P28 ecu? I've only found very mixed answers. Some say that it's obd2a, some say it's obd2b. And that it's got a obd1 loom. So i'm a bit confused here. Anyone? Or can i check this somehow in the car, i've never fiddled with ecus before.
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Ok good to know. Interesting stuff, i haven't researched aftermarket ecus that much but always had the impression Hondata was the way to go. And guess still is a pretty valid choice, unless runnings itbs or digidashes for example like in your cases? Though heard that tuning itbs can be a pain to set up right even with the proper software!
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Amazing job. Can't wait to hear how it performs on track. Any particular reason you opted for AEM v2 instead of Hondata, for example? I've been considering both for my deck.
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Problem solved... i guess sometimes it's worth googling with the name of the part instead of the oem part number . Turns out both the lower side mounts are very intercompatible, i ended up buying a pair intended for a b20 Stepwagon.
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Awesome pic. I kinda like the new mirrors, haven't seen those on a m before.
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I need to change mine but despite serious googling and cross-referencing, can't seem to find a lower right mount. Lower left ones are plenty available and seem to be compatible between pretty much any d- and b-engine honda, but for some reason it's not the case with the lower right ones. Does anyone know where to find one, or if other mounts are compatible? Oem code for the part in question 50841-ST3-E51.
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Turned out that the dizzy axle bearing had indeed come to it's end. Thanks to @10000rpm i got a refurbed distributor in no time, and after fitting it and reseting the ecu i passed emissions with flying colours. Time for a track day me thinks!
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Can someone post the diagram for the engine bay fuse box? Half on mine has worn out.
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I ordered a refurbed one from 10000rpm just to be on the safe side.
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Okay i found this from a 2010 post : "as with everything else the MB6 is a freak Its OBD2, (nearly all cars after 1996 are) but the engine harness is OBD1 including the ECU plugs; hence you can just plug an OBD1 ecu in if you trim the "A plug". I think its because the egine is a slightlty detuned Acura GSR they just used the same harness." So does this mean i need a mb6/mc2 specific dizzy to be able to install it without modifying? Or will any b-series obd2 ecu do?
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Which one is it? I'm pretty sure OBD2 but can't find confirmation.
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Pure awesomeness
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- honda civic aerodeck
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I haven't replaced the dizzy yet during my ownership of 8 or something years. With last years problems i mean same type of high emissions again, and a slightly worn rotor and residual cap. Last year they were toasted though. The only head work i've done was replacing a leaking cam seal a year ago, but made sure to torque everything down to spec.
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Definitely nice & shiny
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So i opened the cap, found some residue on the terminals and cleaned them. There was a small burn mark on the rotor so replaced that. Lazy as i was, i cranked the engine by turning the key to get to the rotor screw and ended up breaking the coil, so replaced that as well. When putting things back together, i noticed there was a tiny bit of play in the rotor. Could that be a sign of a distributor bearing etc. giving way? Might explain why last year's problems have resurfaced.
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It was an aftermarket one, but manufactured and fitted by Martelius which has been Finland's leading perfomance exhaust company for 30 years. But true, oem is always oem. I still have the original left, so might try fitting that if nothing else works.
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That's exactly what i'm interested in, to find out how performance is affected by changing the way fuel/air mix burns. I've been running NGK iridiums and regulars so don't think i require an upgrade from that. Once source i found claimed that constant high-rev performance eg. track would improve by closing the gap 10% from stock, but i'm skeptical. Yes i've heard that turbos require smaller gaps. That's the only consistent info i found. I do have high emissions at the moment that are possibly caused by something wrong with the ignition, obviously i want to fix that as well but still interested in looking at all of the cards first.
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Anyone adjust their spark plug gap from the standard 1.1mm? If so, why? Been looking into this online but seem to find conflicting answers. I'm interested for 2 reasons: lower emissions to pass mot and/or better full throttle performance on the track.
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Hmm feels weird, since it's only 3 years since i replaced the cat. But have to take that into consideration. I'll take a look at the cap & rotor first, just waiting for the weather to get a bit better... it's been snowing again on and off the last two days!
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Last year i failed the emissions test part of MOT. Co% was high, sorted that out by changing the oxygen sensor. Also HC was way too high but after replacing a burnt distributor rotor and cap it was back to normal. Last friday for this years MOT i failed the emissions test again, with the exactly same results. I haven't checked anything yet but i'm assuming the same parts are in need of replacing again. Any idea what might be destroying them?
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Thanks for the input. Been looking at the velocity stacks but haven't really made up my mind what i think about them... but you got me interested, time to do some more research i think! How do you tell the difference between an old style Skunk2 IM and a new one, is it a different model? I've been looking at the Pro series.
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Really? I thought all b-series manis would fit. But good to know.
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I'm aiming for 200bhp. I've got the exhaust side sorted out, now it's time to focus on the intake. I'd like opinions on 3 things: 1. Intake kit. The most popular choices here seem to be an ITR box with K&N filter, whale or cold air intake. Any thoughts? What about heat shields, anyone built one? I'm currently running a brandless aftermarket short ram without any shielding, probably not the best option. 2. Throttle body. Going for a bigger manifold obviously needs a bigger tb. Been thinking about ITR or Skunk2. 3. Intake manifold. Once again ITR and Skunk2 are the ones i've been considering Also heard good stuff about Edelbrock Performer X. So what do you think? After these upgrades the next logical steps will be a fuel pressure regulator and Hondata. I know i won't make the most out of these, let alone get 200bhp, without changing cams but that will be a bit later.
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1.8 Aerodeck from Finland (10 years of ownership)
Dexter replied to Dexter's topic in Honda Civic MA/MB/MC
Naw i'm afraid that might be too loud to my liking! And i'm thinking about something that looks a bit more out of the oridinary. -
1.8 Aerodeck from Finland (10 years of ownership)
Dexter replied to Dexter's topic in Honda Civic MA/MB/MC
On monday the deck has an appointment with Martelius Exhaust Systems, where the custom pipe is getting modified to make room for a MG ZS rear arb. Also i'm getting rid of the Magnaflow backbox. It was fun while it lasted, but i'm pretty tired of the loud low drone i get cruising on the highways! So Martelius will make a new custom backbox to suit my needs, and since i get to choose the tip/tips, might as well go different than last time. I used to have the double barrels, opinions what to go for this time? And the new options are: At the moment i'm leaning towards the elliptic ones in the middle, or possibly to even the flats (the last ones)!
