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Hello i have a big issue with ruff running and not responding to throttle input correctly. So here we go. It started with not sometimes responding to throttle input and lagging when highway driving. Over the past year ive been having a lot issues of jerky driving in low gear, driving on the highway and the car like stalling if i dont press the throttle to get it running right again (very annoing to drive more than 100kms). Then i notised that there was oil in the sparkplug holes. previously i changed the valvecover gasket and the sparkplug hole gaskets. so the sparkplug hole gaskets were leaking for a long time after the change. one of the holes was full of oil. then i started to look at the ignition system for the fault. I took off the distributor cover and notised that the covers ignition points were very dirty it looked like some kind of powder and also the rotor was in a bad condition. i cleaned them and after that the car was running like normal for like ten minutes when driving and started to have the same issues again. Few weeks ago i changed the coil, distributor cap, rotor and cleaned the sparkplug holes of oil and the sparkplugs. All that didnt resolve the issues and now im kind of lost. Im thinking of ordering new gaskets and spark plug wires. If anyone has any suggestions or advice im open to them. Also im not a native english speaker so sorry if the text is hard to read

Hello there, I have an issue with my MB6 B18C4. The engine sometimes hesitates sometimes not and the car has very bad idling. It fluctuates a lot. New distributor, new TPS, new MAP, new IACV, new throttle body, new spark plugs and spark plug wires and the car has enough coolant in it. Any ideas?

i have a question for my d15z8 i want to do a mini me but i saw someone say here that the z8 head is the same as the y8 d16 but only with a vtec e camshaft he said that the best option was to buy a d16y8 or z6 camshaft with barings can someone confirm this if this wil fit ?

Has any of you replaced the distributor on MB6/MC2 Civics? In North-American forums some people say bad things about aftermarket ones, but OEM ones are quite expensive if i'm not wrong... Would this be any good? https://www.a4h-tech.com/en/ashuki-blue-print-distributor-td-87u-civic-integra-95-01 Or this? https://www.a4h-tech.com/en/dragon-fire-performance-distributor-td-86u-honda-civic-integra (Havent heard about the brand) Which of these would be the best bet? Ashuki product claims to be "OEM Replacement with a perfect quality." Dragon Fire Performance claims to be for high perfomance, suitable for high rpm etc. Has anyone used Ashuki products on their Hondas around here? Good/bad experiences? Also has anyone replaced thermostat with a aftermarket part? Any risks? Good brands? Meyle, Mahle, Gates?

Are there any model specific exhaust manifolds for MB6 B18c4 anymore? Toyosports made some a few years ago. I can only find some cheap from ebay or more expensive from skunk2 or Tegiwa. I need a new one because the old one is rusted. DCsports 4-1 manifold. Is anyone using this by any chance? https://turboworks.pl/product-eng-5852-Exhaust-manifold-HONDA-CIVIC-B18-4-1.html Any idea if that would fit or could there be ground clearence issues etc. ? I can only find some manifolds meant for B18 in general. Does all aftermarket B18 exhaust manifolds fit MB6? Any bad experiences?

Hi all, Recently discovered that my D14 is a lot healthier than I originally thought. The only concern I have is that there is an excessive amount of white smoke from the exhaust on the overrun from 6K down to 3.5k rpm. To add to this I'm having to bleed my coolant once every couple of weeks due to the idle beginning to fluctuate like air is getting into the IACV. Brand new IACV a few months ago. Was looking at swapping the head over anyway, What's a direct bolt-up fit? And what's the best gasket to use? Engine is not boosted, and won't be but is running 108 crank hp, up from 90.

Hi everyone, long time visitor first time poster , I have a 1997 MB2 base model with a d14a8 in. Over the past few month i have been preparing the car as a track car. I have done a reasonable amount of work onto the d14 (Cambelt, aux belts, valve lash, oil change, z6 intake mani, cold air intake, new fuel filter etc) however, recently it has felt very down on power and the car is vibrating a lot. There is no audible knock or rattle from the engine however when doing a routine check i discovered metal filings on the dipstick. Rather than plowing more money into a d14, which other D series would be a straight swap? I know its not as simple as that but I'm looking to do this swap over a weekend with a few a mates. I know the mechanical aspect of doing a swap very well however I am completely clueless with what to do with the wiring. Can anyone give me some ideas?

Hi, I have a d16w4 engine and was told by someone I can add a d15b cylinder head (JDM one) onto mine. Just wondering has anyone done this if so have what else would you need to do (like timing belts etc). Still new to all this Honda stuff lol thanks

I have an 1999 honda civic sport (mb2) and want to install a cold air intake but i cant seem to find any. the ones i have found (from sk imports) dont appear to have anywhere to install the airflow censors as far as i can see and the description is very vague thanks in advance :)

my d14z4 intake manifold broke so i would like to put another one that wasn't plastic. what other intake manifold are compatible?

Hi all, been a while since I've been on the forums, not sure if people still use them but I'll try my luck anyway. So I have an mb6 vti in which the original b18c4 engine was removed due to bottom end knock. I stored the car away until I find a replacement engine. Fast forward 2 years, progress has been really slow due to covid, losing job etc other commitments in life so I've been driving eg civic which was d16z6 auto, I recently broke the car due to failing mot on rust. Still not able to get a replacement b18c4 engine due to too much going on in life, I came up with an idea what if I do d16z6 swap in mb6, I know it sounds silly but it's not a hard swap considering it is obd 1 vtec and I just wanted to get the car moving as I hated it been sat there doing nothing. So I actually went and fitted the d16z6 into the mb6. Was pretty much an easy swap, got the car started too. Only issue is the speed sensor plug does not fit because it is for auto and now I've got manual gearbox. I used the manual gearbox from mb2 and used clutch and flywheel. However I have an issue with the car not engaging into gear. I'm able to select gears but the car won't move, not even at bite point, doesn't even stall if I let off clutch pedal in gear. Would this be due to using a used clutch kit because I'm sure I was told I can use it. It was only meant to be a temp solution until I get the car moted and sort everything else out and then do a proper build such as turbo. I really hate having to take off the gearbox again and possibly again to fit uprated clutch kit depending car passes mot. What could be the issue?

I tried to change the original PCV valve with a new aftermarket one (cheap). It was hard to remove the old one and it cracked in two pieces. I got it all out eventually while very frustrating. Putting the new one was surprisingly hard too. I did attach it to the hose surprisingly easily but it was hard to press the new valve back into the hole. There's no space so hard to apply any strengh. I'm not sure if it's all the way down. It looks pretty good but i think it could be a little off. The aftermarket valves rubber part was a bit longer than in the old OEM one. Maybe that makes it hard too. Anyway tried to start the car after all the work and i think the idling is a bit off. It could be running lean or rich if i installed it wrong... There is some smell and exhaust gas smells a bit rich too although i always had trouble with emissions/car running too rich. Also the car is using oil so that's also the reason for trying to change pcv valve. I haven't test driven yet but i'm afraid i could've made things worse. Might have to take the car to a car mechanic. Tried to save some money by doing it myself because the valve is in a bad spot in these engines as you may know. Is it harmful to the engine if i installed it badly? Is running rich or lean harmful to engine? When i pressed the gas pedal at idle it didnt sound healthy/strong. Choking sounds and hesitating sound but the pedal feel was normal. Should i try to drive the car or let someone take a look?

I have Mb6 civic. What is the size of that small rubber hose from valve cover to the breather tube? its connected with small clamps from both ends like in the picture (not my car). I had aftermarket air intake from preavious owner and trying to replace it with Integra oem air intake. What size in mm. and is it same size from both ends?

Just purchased a k20 aerodeck, when you start it from cold you have to prime the fuel pump twice as its still got the standard pump in. So when you key on, it doesn't prime the fuel enough so means it cranks over for longer, but if your key in and off twice, then it builds enough. Am I right in thinking king if I fit a walbro 255 pump then it'll be able to prime enough on the first key? As its a bigger, more power pump Thanks in advance

Hi there, For many years I noticed that our Civic 5Dr MB2 ‘98 takes about 8 turns of the starter motor to start the engine when key is turned if you know what I mean. I always felt that’s too long and something must be up? I’ve recently replaced the distributor entirely but the slow starting is still there and I replaced the ignition leads probably 10 years ago and again that made no difference. the car has done 70k, could the slow starting be due to value clearances being out causing low compression? I don’t think it’s ever been adjusted. It’s still slow to start hot or cold though. thanks

Hello just wanted to ask if anyone has been working with placing electric exhaust flap (or valve ?) on mb3 body with stock like exhaust.

Hi folks, i have MA9 (d15z3 1.5 vtec-e 95') i am looking to sawp it with transmission to something with more power, what would be the easy swap with litle work

Feels like it is going to be itr cam time soon, and thinking about gaskets. I think I know the answer to this, but worth asking the question.... Stick with oem honda gaskets, or are after market ones any good? Honda head gasket kit from tegiwa is £215 https://www.tegiwaimports.com/genuine-honda-upper-head-gasket-kit-b-series-b18c4.html Full rebuild kit from Japserviceparts is £108, but not honda parts. https://japserviceparts.co.uk/product/honda-civic-vti-b18c4-full-engine-rebuild-gasket-kit/

Hi all, need some advice as I think I have made things worse. Was happy about getting the mb6 back out on the road after being stood for years. Long story short, car started up fine with jump start and I took it for a run for 10 miles and all seemed good, no funny noises from engine. I thought I'd give it an oil and filter change so started the car and let it run for 10 mins then gave it a gentle rev, heard a weird squealing noise from the timing belt area which found to be the timing belt rubbed against the plastic cover and shredded into millions of pieces. Checked the timing marks and all seemed good, belt did not jump which was a relief. Problem started when I fitted new belt as I forgot to put spring on tensioner, and I rotated the crank counter clockwise 3 times as stated in the manual not realising that the crank had jumped two teeth from tdc. I put everything back together then started the car, it did struggle to start and when it start, the engine was knocking, I must've let it started for about 10 seconds then turned it off as I knew something was not right. This is when I realised that the timing belt was put wrong by myself. So now I'm worried whether I have caused any damage, like bent valves or even damaged piston. I don't have a clue how to take the head off myself but I was told I can take the spark plugs out and rotate the crank manually to see if there is any knock/slap noise but I'm not certain is this is quite the way to tell for a bent/damaged valve or piston. I'm still learning these engines but now I'm s**tting myself, I made things worse :(

As the title suggests. Anyone changed the standard VTi airbox with a DC2 Type R and is it worth it? Cheers.

Am I right that the D Series SOHC engines fitted to the MB Civics are designed in the following way? As far as I can tell, the valve cover needs to be removed in order to remove the top timing belt cover? I have changed a timing belt in the past on a SOHC D Series engine. I had changed the valve cover gasket before. I noticed at the time that the valve cover had to be removed in order to remove the plastic timing belt cover. While the valve cover was off, I removed the plastic cover and ground off the lip that fits into the slot on the valve cover. That way, when the belt was due, I was able to remove the plastic cover without needing to break the valve cover seal. It also allows the timing belt to be easily checked for condition without needing to remove the valve cover. I have seen aftermarket clear plastic timing belt covers pictured on the internet before. While that seemed like a good idea, I would think that it would soon get dirty on the inside. I also wonder how long they would last before the clear plastic turned cloudy. As an aside, what is the secret to getting a lasting seal on the valve cover gasket? I used a new gasket with sealant only at the corner points of the camshaft bearing cap at both ends. This was recommended by a Haynes manual. The seal lasted a couple of years but eventually started leaking oil from the corners of the end cam caps. Thanks for any information.

Hello folks. I'm having a bit of trouble trying to fit my oil cooler. I have the cooler mounted and everything I need to do the job and also plumb in all my gauges aswell. I'm using a thermostatic mocal sandwich plate to feed the cooler but there doesn't seem to be any room to mount it. Iv seen plenty of install guides and videos of doing it and no one seem to have trouble fitting the plat. But on the b18c4 there just seems to be no room around it. You can get the plate on but there is no room for fittings and the hoses to go. There seem to be more hoses and random lines on the back of a b18c4 block than any other engine from pics iv seen. Has anyone else managed to fit one and how did they do it? Thanks

Hello guys, I'm new user from Italy (sorry for bad English). I need help to understand what is happening on my mother's car, 138.000 km engine model D14A2 Some issues started after a routine maintenance on the engine; engine head, cam belt and water pump have been changed. If I am not wrong these components are all exchanged during this checks. After many km (don't know exactly how many) the engine were not able to keep reach and maintain the normal temperature because of an issue with the thermostat (in fact petrol consumption was anomalous). The mechanic changed the thermostat and a new issue has appeared immediately. The temp gauge begun to failed to measure the correct engine temperature. The gauge was moving up to 1/4 of the gauge scale instead of moving just before half scale. I took the car back to the mechanic but he wasn't able to fix the issue. He checked the engine and said that it was ok. He told me to do not worry about a false reading. At that moment I understood that he was not able to fix it (or maybe he didn't want to spent time on an old car and moving on other cars more profitable) and I thought to fix by myself the issue and also save money from that mechanic (which caused more issue then fixes). I made many searches on internet to fix the issue by myself. First I replaced the ECT sensor (the one with the o-ring) but unfortunately the issue was still there. Then I checked the ECT gauge sending unit (by following the instruction from the Honda service manual); I put to ground the yellow green wire that connects the sensor to the gauge and turned on the car switch to position III. The gauge started to move to the H mark very fast. I turned off the switch before it were going to reach the H mark (as the manual warned). That allowed me to check if the issue was on the gauge itself or on the sensor. So I decided to buy another ECT gauge sending unit. I bought the replacement part directly from Honda (80 euros); then I mounted it on the car. The original component has been broken during the disassembly. Unfortunately the issue is still there but (and this is what is also makes me even more crazy) now the gauge reads an higher engine temperature; in fact it goes up around 3/4 the scale. Anyway the engine temperature is ok; in fact the pipeline from the radiator to the engine can be touched with the hands when the engine is on and the radiator fan does not turn on in normal condition. I haven't checked yet if it start turn on under workloads but I think it works. Coolant level seems ok to me. So... any suggestions on how to fix the issue??? Please help me!!!

Hi got a crack in manifold on my D16W4 1.6 SOHC VTEC, are there any replacement manifolds on other civics, old or later, that will fit, like D14Z4 for example? Thinking of looking for 2nd hand or scrappers. or do I have to go down the SS route from eBay?? thanks.

Hello I was wondering about this and wanted to ask if anyone tried it ?