Search the Community
Showing results for tags 'honda engine b18'.
-
Hi guys, This is my MC2 VTI... more to come when I get around to finishing some internal tweaks....
- 2,198 replies
-
- 3
-
-
- honda engine b18
- honda civic mc
- (and 4 more)
-
So how many lambda/02 sensors does the MB6 Civic originally have? My car had aftermarket exhaust system since i got it, so i have no idea what's the most ideal/original position of lambda/02 sensor. And also does it originally come with 1 or 2 sensors? If 2 then where does the other one go to? I've never had OEM cat so where does to 02 sensor go to? I know that there is supposed to be at least 1 sensore before the cat or at the cat... Does the OEM header/exhaust manifold have o2 connection or was it directly on the cat itself? I have aftermarket header with plugged o2 connection and the lambda is currently connected directly to aftermarket cat since it already had a connection to it. But is the best place for the sensor at the end of the header pipe before the cat starts? I'm asking all of this because i have constant issues with high emissions. I'm trying to rule out things. ECU could cause all sorts of readings depending on the set up... Right now i'm going to replace the rusted header if that helps. If the header leaks somewhere, it could lead to surprisingly big emission issues. ECU for instance could assume that the engine is running too lean, and compensate it with more fuel so that it runs rich... Has anyone changed thermostat, coolant/radiator cap, coolant temperature sensor? Many people here have issues with emissions on B18c4. So did any of those things fix the issue for someone? Or does the car need a OEM cat? ECU issue regarding non-OEM parts used? These cars doesn't seem to like some of the aftermarket parts if i'm not wrong...
-
-
does anyone knows if the inner tie rod for a eg would work on a mc2? If I look at the drawings of the mc2, you can't buy them apart. http://www.lingshondaparts.com/honda_car_parts_selection_pfk.php?block_01=17S1E01&block_02=B__3310&block_03=7801&block_05=hcr should these work? http://www.hardrace.co.uk/hard-race-honda-civic-eg-hard-tie-rod-oe-style-2pcs.html And should these work for the steering rack? You only need this or new collars also?
-
Hey lads, Have previously put a build thread on civiclife forum but thought I'd wack one up here too for different opinions etc. Currently I have re-sprayed the grill and re-badged boot... Ive cleaned up bay, powder coated rocker cover and fitted short ram induction kit (soon to be cold air induction kit)... Removed headlight washer jets... New head unit, fusion sub and fli door speakers... Next I plan to fill jet holes in front bumper and re-spray it, along with skirts and rear bumper as they have a few dings etc. Purchased the relevant stuff for this from halfords, had a question though... If i get paint colour using cars ext. paint code... Once lacquered will it have the desired effect or will it look out of place.... The silver has a metallic shine to it but not sure if my sprayed bumpers will come out the same as not done this before? Any tips welcome please!! Here's a couple pics anyway...
- 1,663 replies
-
- 2
-
-
- modified
- honda civic vti
- (and 6 more)
-
Feels like it is going to be itr cam time soon, and thinking about gaskets. I think I know the answer to this, but worth asking the question.... Stick with oem honda gaskets, or are after market ones any good? Honda head gasket kit from tegiwa is £215 https://www.tegiwaimports.com/genuine-honda-upper-head-gasket-kit-b-series-b18c4.html Full rebuild kit from Japserviceparts is £108, but not honda parts. https://japserviceparts.co.uk/product/honda-civic-vti-b18c4-full-engine-rebuild-gasket-kit/
-
Hi all, need some advice as I think I have made things worse. Was happy about getting the mb6 back out on the road after being stood for years. Long story short, car started up fine with jump start and I took it for a run for 10 miles and all seemed good, no funny noises from engine. I thought I'd give it an oil and filter change so started the car and let it run for 10 mins then gave it a gentle rev, heard a weird squealing noise from the timing belt area which found to be the timing belt rubbed against the plastic cover and shredded into millions of pieces. Checked the timing marks and all seemed good, belt did not jump which was a relief. Problem started when I fitted new belt as I forgot to put spring on tensioner, and I rotated the crank counter clockwise 3 times as stated in the manual not realising that the crank had jumped two teeth from tdc. I put everything back together then started the car, it did struggle to start and when it start, the engine was knocking, I must've let it started for about 10 seconds then turned it off as I knew something was not right. This is when I realised that the timing belt was put wrong by myself. So now I'm worried whether I have caused any damage, like bent valves or even damaged piston. I don't have a clue how to take the head off myself but I was told I can take the spark plugs out and rotate the crank manually to see if there is any knock/slap noise but I'm not certain is this is quite the way to tell for a bent/damaged valve or piston. I'm still learning these engines but now I'm s**tting myself, I made things worse :(
-
Helloo New to this,But I had this issue with all my MBs,The arabian tent ,Ive used glue before ,but now Im just close to giving up,Any Ideas .Maybe Rip off and staple some leather fabric or limo lights those little leds all over could look cool?
-
hi all, i done a b18c4 swap on eg and i was wondering if it is possible to de-immobilise the stock p9k ecu to get the car started or is it too much hassle? Also can i use a friends p30 ecu which is mapped but on a b16a2 turbo. i just want to get the car started by my friend is worried his ecu may change settings or something and not work properly when i give it back i've been told a stock p72 ecu will also work but could anyone clarify this is true? thanks
-
Sooo... it's a third year in a row failing mot due to high emissions. This time it's running quite rich, lambda shows 0.6. Co% and HC about 10 tenfold past the limits. And can't seem to find the source. Here's my investigation so far: - no vacuum leaks - compression test ok - no visible leaks in exhaust system - plugs in need of change but nothing critical about their condition - plug wires ok - timing ok - ecu reseted - worn cap + rotor, a little bit of play in dizzy axle + dizzy a bit noisy = gonna replace distributor. But not in such a bad condition that would explain the richness. - coolant reservoir was empty, only a bit of dark brown muck on the bottom. At first thought it was oil, but when i rinsed it turned out was (atleast mostly) dirt etc. Discovered a small crack on the reservoir lid, might be a cause. Besides the reservoir no other clues pointing to a possibly leaking head gasket. Any ideas what to look for? One suggestion was that a faulty heat sensor etc. could be feeding the ecu wrong info and messing up the mix? Valve stem leak also one possible cause. In addition to the dizzy i'm planning on replacing the ecu with a p28 with Hondata to get better data about what's happening. And ofcourse once it's fixed, then it's tuning time .
-
So I think that I know the answer to this question, but I'm going to ask anyway. I've got some itr cams to go in my deck, which hasn't driven for 10 months. It's going to be having some work done, including timing belt, which seems like an ideal opportunity to get the cams in, but getting it mapped isn't going to be possible for a little while, and it's going to need to be mot'd before it drives anywhere. Question is, do I get the cams in now, or forget about it until I can get it mapped? What should I expect if I ran the cams on the p9 ecu?
-
Well, here's the build up of my first MB6. Only had her 5 days and already i'm in love with her!!! lol Oh, and she's been officially named Ruby! Goes with her Ruby red paint (ok, I know it's sicillian red!! ) I'm no stranger to M's have had my MA8 civic (blue Betty!) for around 5 years! Right, heres the info on her when I got her. 1998 S-reg sicillian read pearl 39,000 miles Full service history, 2 owners from new (Honda being the first, up to 6,000 miles, then the owner I bought her from at 38,500 miles) standard appart from A/M remote alarm imobiliser with ultrasonics (NOW REPLACED WITH NEW UPGRADED CAT 1 SYSTEM), detachable towbar (proper one from Honda , which will be coming off!) My Plan is to make her a VTiS replica, but in met red, instead of pirates black. So here she is This was on the way home at some motorway services (I spy Dawns aerodeck in the background! ) First mod was to ditch the orange side indicators for nice clear ones Next, it was onto the interior. She's spotless inside, but still gona give her a good clean, so heres how she looks now....I'll post up another once she's been fully valeted The one part of the interior that I wanted to change asap was the stereo! Was a pioneer good bit of kit in it's day, but i like me Cd's and MP3's so out it came and in its place, my Pioneer mp3 head unit (keeping it kinda oem, as it's still a pioneer ) And thats all the mods so far...........but there will be more to come. She's getting a full VTI-S body kit, VTI-S alloys (early style ones) poss tints, and a few other bits and bobs. Heres some pics of how she looks now after a wash! MODS SO FAR: Smoked side indicators Pioneer MP3 head unit (iPod compatible) (UPDATE: Now Alpine CDE9850Ri CD/MP3 with full iPod control)(Update again, now got a new Pioneer DAB/CD/USB head unit!) Powerflow Stainless steel exhaust (cat back) VTiS lip kit (side skirts still to be fitted) VTiS floor mats VTiS gearknob VTiS Speedline chrono alloys fully refurbed and powder coated in white ) TypeR Gear gator with red stitching Full leather (from ES model) fitted, along with the black door cards Honda horn (peep peep) removed, replaced air horns Lowered on Full MeisterR Zeta S coilover suspension
-
© VTEC G
- 2 comments
-
- 1
-
-
- honda civic mb
- honda civic 5 door hatch
- (and 4 more)
-
© VTEC G
-
- 1
-
-
- honda civic mb
- honda civic 5 door hatch
- (and 4 more)
-
© VTEC G
-
- 1
-
-
- honda civic mb
- honda civic 5 door hatch
- (and 4 more)
-
Now Just need to get my springs on ,45mm be alright?- 3 comments
-
- 2
-
-
- honda civic mb6
- honda civic vti
- (and 2 more)
-
- 1 comment
-
- 1
-
-
- honda civic mb6
- honda civic mb
- (and 9 more)
-
Nice Little meet with Dream owners club today ,sadly no mb's about .Good catch up© V77EC G
- 2 comments
-
- 2
-
-
- honda civic 5 door hatch
- honda civic mb
- (and 7 more)
-
- 5 comments
-
- 2
-
-
- honda civic mb
- vtec
- (and 4 more)
-
-
- 2
-
-
- honda civic mb
- honda civic vtis
- (and 2 more)
-
1998 Honda Civic Aerodeck B18C4 - Koni Sportkit -35mm and adjustable stiffness - Sportline lipkit - 16†Zero ZE04-rims with 205/45 Falken-tyres - for the winter 15†League 273’s with 195/55 Continentals - Tinted windows - Custom headlights - Custom grille - Red brake calipers up front - De-badged - Removed the headlight washers - Indiglo dials from Moman - Mugen pedals - Tenzo-R shift knob - Simoni Racing floor mats Greetings from the north, this is my second aerodeck. My first car was a MB8 that i bought in July 2008 but in march 2009 i couldn't resist anymore, took a loan and got myself the car that i had wanted in the first place, the MC2. It wasn't in the best possible condition when i got it and still needs lots of work, but slowly and surely it's starting to turn into what i hope one day will be the lowest, fastest and baddest Aerodeck in Finland. I just got my winter rims from Alloywheels.com and got them installed, i'll post pictures of the new look soon. I have lots planned for my deck... i'll keep you updated on the progress.
-
Hey guys, long time I know but as soon I get rid of this financed Mercedes I’ll be back on the deck and back here as a regular! in the mean time I’m thinking about my options, I thought I’d post in here so any responses or information that’s given will be there for anyone else scrolling through the engine section. i want to get some gains going on in the bay... so I just wondered if someone could spend a few minutes to explain a bit about the options on all of the following.... cams, throttle bodies, manifolds, ecu’s and anything else sort of related which can acquire improved performance. willing to spend a bit of dough but not after a 2k build otherwise I may as well boost it lol... way out of my budget!! look forward to replies
-
So finally got myself a refurbed P28 ecu with Hondata S300 ready to plug and play from H-tune. Took it to a respectable tuner, and in absence of a B18C4 basemap he downloaded a close-enough map from the Hondata website and started with dealing with the engine fault codes that came on. Once sorted out, started the engine, and it would cut off at 2000rpm and not show any codes. After fiddling around the map with the laptop for a while, without any particular reason, the engine started working as normal and he proceeded to map the car on the dyno. Once it was done, i took it for a test drive, and the same thing as in the beginning happened again: limp mode at 2000rpm. Took it back, laptop back on, no fault codes, he looked through the whole map and each menu again without finding any problems, and after a bit suddenly it worked again. So i started driving home, car worked great, and after a while i stopped for coffee. When i started the engine again: limp mode. And no matter what, i couldn't get it working properly again. So had to swap back the original ecu to get back home. The tuner said there isn't really much he can do, since there was nothing to be found with the S300 manager program to point to the source of the limp mode. He said all he could think of was that there's some sort of compatibilty problem with the P28 and B18C4 that doesn't show on Hondata, and my best bet for now would be internet research. So here i am. I've searched the forum pretty thoroughly and read pretty much every thread with P28 on the title, but can't seem to figure this out. Has anyone had a similar problem?
-
So, going for full MTEC brake change and fitting some HEL braided lines at the same time. Just gone to take the first front brake hose off. All gone smoothly, drained hose, all disconnected, removed the sliding metal clip for the top fixing where the hose connects to the brake line. AAAnnnndddd.......... What the chuff is still holding this onto the bracket? Ive unscrewed the brake line nut, removed clip on top, can't anything else that should come off or move, is it just the power of 20 years worth of corrosion holding it on? should it pull down through the little bracket? or it it part of the bracket?
-
Hi new to the forum, picked up this mb6 totally standard apart from coilover a month ago and since then I've added an omp wheel and quick release, new carpets, added an aem induction kit, aluminium rad and red coolant hoses, decat, custom spark plug cover,bonnet raisers and few wee tidy up bits, I've owned a few hondas before this, had am ej6 civic coupe with a b18c4 conversion and also owned an accord type r, but its quite a clean mb6 so don't want to do to much to it or anything done it can be put back, but interested in probably one of the most asked questions of making the custom projector headlights? And looking a nice set of alloys, recommendations? Thanks
