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Finally getting around to a build thread for my third car It all started on a dull early may day. A Friend of mine messaged me, asking if I needed any parts from her MB4 before she scrapped it. It had been sitting on her drive since she her daughter had been born. I said to her, "let me know what the scrappy offers, and i'll chuck £50 on top and come grab it", knowing that the d16w4 powerplant in this could replace my lathargic D14 in my MB2 The next day me and a mate collected it, threw some trade plates on and ran up to my workshop. Even with the old 4 speed slush-box, and a years neglect, the MB4 walked away from my MB2 on a straight bit of road. Once we arrived, my friend parked the car up and then headed home. I then stood and had a smoke, looking at this car having a "Wangan midnight" esque moment, seeing the colour of the Sicilian Red paint for the first time. Plans had changed. (see attached image) Rust and engine work: First I got the car up on stands and made a list of everything wrong with it. The rear passenger sill and inner arch passed the good old screwdriver test, however the driver's side failed miserably, along with a few places around the front jacking point, and front inner arch. Out came the grinder, welder, and some conveniently shaped and cut sheet metal that I would be using to patch these big holes. This was a steep learning curve, as I have only ever done agricultural welding, and never thin bodywork. Once the rust was dealt with next came the auto box - I had never planned to keep this gearbox, so the hunt for an s20 close ratio box began. During this time, the auto box, torque converter and PRND lever were all disposed of in an appropriate fashion (Thrown into a skip as fast as humanly possible🤣), meanwhile, the engine was suspended by a ratchet strap around 2 on the gearbox bolts, and a random 2x4 i had laying about across the wings (See attached) Whilst the box was off, I decided to replace the rear main seal, sump gasket, and clean out the oil pickup tube. A few shiny parts were fitted during this time too, including an oil sandwich plate with senders for both oil pressure and temp, HKS oil filter, TTV flywheel and an exedy stage 1 clutch. Once I sourced a box, the new mounts were fitted up and after a copious amount of faffing around the engine and box were in. (I wish I had an engine crane!!) I altered the wiring on the PRND plug to disable the inhibitor switch, as well as the reverse lights. I finished under the bay by rebuilding the distributor, replacing the plugs and HT leads. I also added a bus bar to the firewall as my battery was going to be boot mounted. I am using a Janspeed 4-2-1 manifold, a smashed out OEM cat shell and a Skunk2 megapower exhaust system. I have a Whale pen15 air intake as well. Interior: This car had a creme interior, which I knew wouldn't survive me daily driving it. I quickly tore this out, installed a load of sound deadening and the various wires i'd be needing for my ICE setup, then fitted a black carpet and VTI "bus seat" interior. I mounted the battery and circuit breaker in the spare wheel well, as well as a power distribution block. this would be needed when I got around to building the boot and fitting my 3 amps. I finished the interior off with an oil pressure and temperature gauge set, a fire extinguisher, and an old school pioneer flipout headunit + DVD player. Exterior: The exterior is largely untouched, as it is the rare sicilian red pearl colour. This car was factory specced with a full VTIs kit and Jordan wheels. The jordan wheels went onto my other MB2, so that I could fit my 15" TSW imola wheels. I welded the rear wiper hole up, and the old spoiler holes. I then fitted an "auto spoiler", which had been preiovsly fitted to a friend's recently imported 200sx. This was an almost perfect colour match.

See attached, will be posting some more in the near future about rebuilding my engine haha

Hi, I'm Patrick and this is my '96 Fastback which bought in late 2019 as my first car. Or at least how it looked a few years ago. Lots of stuff has been done to it since then and I will try my best to dig up some pictures of the process as we catch up to the present. :) The previous owner, who bought it brand-new, was an old man and pretty much all the dents are his work, by the way. Just wanted to clarify. ;) It is (was) a bone stock, base-spec, MA8 with the optional 'Comfort' package installed from factory. Meaning it's got a 1.4l engine that makes 90hp, electrical windows in the front, power steering, A/C and no ABS, with drum brakes in the rear. Oh, and that atrocious fake wood that fools absolutely nobody and looks cheap as hell. What were they thinking? Oldest pictures I could find, was already on some lowering springs by then. Also removed some fugly flower-stickers from the doors and got rid of the 'Comfort' badges. Like every responsible young man before me, I of course immediately went ahead and installed some lowering springs and got myself a nice, quality exhaust. The springs are from Eibach and, if memory serves me right, the exhaust is made by a Polish company called 'Ulter'. We did some proper maintenance, though. You need a good foundation to build a house, right? That, and my old man never would have let me get away without doing some maintenance anyways. :P Beauty shot of the freshly unboxed exhaust. The exhaust arrived on a weekday at around 7PM and me and my old man got giddy like a bunch of kids on christmas eve as we put or grubby hands on it. We immediately went out into the freezing cold to get it installed ASAP. :D Roughly an hour later we were done and it felt like it was the coolest car on the planet for that moment. If I only knew what was to follow... ;) Might be able to find a video, but no promises. In the next episode...! Broke 18 year old me finally saves up enough money to get a set of wheels. And...! Something big on the horizon.

Hi everyone, Thought I'd write up a post to help a few people out. Spent 2 hours researching this today. It is possible to fit after market seats in an MB model civic without a tailored/specially fitted subframe. So for all of those that would like a sportier seat, or some racing seats, this is how you do it and what you need List of parts: Seat (of your choice) Universal side mount rails Base mount conversion rails (you will only need these if you are buying seats with base mount/bottom fitting only) How to install seat seat: Remover factory seats and rails from car Remove factory rails from factory seat install universal side mounts to factory rails ( some bolts may need to be removed or cut off) put factory rails back into car with universal mounts attached Install base mount conversion brackets to side mounts install seat to base mount bracket If you have a seat that is side mounts only you will not need the base mount conversion bracket. you can skip step 4 and install the seat directly to the universal side mounts. The great thing about the universal side mounts is that you have a lot of choice in how you can position your seat. meaning you can have more lean in the seat. be higher up or lower down. this is all depend ending on the side mounts you buy and the amount of holes available. List of parts and seats I used to make this possible: Seat - Sparco R100 - https://www.demon-tweeks.com/uk/sparco-r100-seat-7000253/ Side Mounts - Sparco Steel Side Mounts - https://www.demon-tweeks.com/uk/sparco-steel-side-mounts-s-s004902/ Base mount conversion - OMP Base Mount Conversion Brackets - https://www.demon-tweeks.com/uk/omp-base-mount-conversion-brackets-omphc0-0660/ Hope this helps anyone still trying to figure out how to do this.

I picked up my mb4 a few months ago. I thought i would start a little thread where i post a few pics now and then.... The first few pics are from after coilovers and wheels. Unfortunatly my old phone died with the before pictures.. Currently i have installed coilovers, new set of wheels, custom "type r" grill and a few small things... Plans for next month is custom headlights (angel eyes & demon eyes) with app control if possible. Updates are gonna come when things are getting done slowly. If any questions, feel free to ask.

Hi folks. Had a 2010 Civic TypeS GT in red (aka Sexy Lexy) about 9 years ago, followed by a 2008 Civic TypeR in silver (aka Roxy). Traded the TypeR in for something more sensible for a daily driver, and have had a load of various cars since then. Always missed my TypeS tho! Was supposed to be looking for a classic 1980s Vw Golf convertible or an old Scirocco, but got fed up looking at sheds. Decided plan B was needed which was to sell my 1st Gen MINI Cooper s convertible and get a sensible daily driver again! Initially looked at 10th gen civics, but wasn't too keen on the style, so the hunt was on for a TypeS GT again (pref in red). Had to be the GT, had to be the 1.8 and no older than a 2010. Found one down in Yorkshire for £4.5k, years mot, service history, 64k on the clock,in red....and even the first 2 letters of the reg were the same as my old one (OE). She drives like a brand new car, so happy to be back in an 8th gen! Only got a few pics of her so far but will get more. Hope you like! Some subtle mods on the way, pretty much the same as I did withLexy senior lol Oh, and also means DD is relieved of the daily driving duties, so tucked up in the garage. Means I can spend time getting her back to show standard now!

Happy Christmas everyone! Hope that you're all having a great festive break! 🎄🎄🎄🎄

You are technically right about not needing the whole trailing arms, but good luck with both finding the spindles by themselves in usable condition and taking the old ones off. Finding parts like that is getting progressively hard as our cars start to turn into oldtimers, and most of these super specific upgrade parts have already been grabbed about a decade ago. We're kinda late to the party in that regard. The spindles are also secured to the trailing arms with extremely strong threadlocker, which oftentimes are pretty old and corroded on top, which makes removing them near impossible without drilling them out. Stripped a bolt attempting to remove the disc brake ones, even with applying heat and using rust remover beforehand. No chance. So, yes - you technically don't need them, but realistically you will. Except if you're fine with drilling all of the bolts out and dealing with that headache. And the part about bleeding the brakes is also generally correct. Most cars have their brake systems set up like that so you can still come to a stop if a brake line fails. Otherwise if you combine FR with RR / FL with RL you will only have working brakes on one side of your car, which I don't have to explain why that would be very bad.

Hey all, already done a load of restoration as getting it back to full N/A Glory before I consider ITBs. Just wanted to make a meal of this that arrived the other day, so happy! 🥰

ok, its been some time... but i want to share few photos from a civic photoshoot i made recently. This is how it currently looks like.

Amazing reply from SirPaperbag! Just to add ive done this swap on my (non abs) mb2, but also upgraded a few things. My setup is as follows and works sweet: Disc trailing arms off a mc1 aerodeck MB6 brake booster MB6 1" master cylinder Mgzs 180 282mm front calipers (interesting the caliper is the same as from a 97-03 accord, not sure on the carrier) Mgzs 180 262mm rear calipers 46210-S5A-912 40-40 prop valve Regarding the rear arb - the rear brace that SirPaperbag mentions won't fit without modification. DeLaSoul mentions it in his build thread - if I remember correctly the mounting points where the LCAs mount to the chassis are about 8mm narrower on our MBs to EKs

Small update on the whole brake prop valve situation: Apparently, EG6 prop valves could also work, as they don't have ABS and 262/242mm rotors in the front and rear, just like our M-chassis Civics. So, if that's true, you could get a brand new valve for less than $200 from Japan. Part number for these bad boys is 46210-SR3-013 And you should be fine sticking with your original brake master cylinder + booster! But if you've got 242mm discs all around instead you'd need a "1725" valve (46210-1725-XXX) off a Del Sol, not off an EE/ED/EF Civic! (Different f/r rotor sizes)

Got some from Climair installed rn, and they fit very well. They're still available brand new. Only thing I had to do is grind off a bit of the holding tab in the front (was a bit too long) but that's completely normal with these things. And you can even choose between clear, tinted, and dark, which I find quite nice.

Good shout mate, I'll se about getting this added to FAQ. And thank you, cracking info there!

A reply this detailed deserves to be in the FAQ section of this site! It really seems a more difficult job than a cam swap and a tune haha If I ever manage to stumble upon the main parts for a cheap enough price (Hondas in general were very expensive relative to other cars here in Italy so not many sales...) to justify all the work I'll definitely try. Thanks for all the info!

Great post there mate

The part about needing new trailing arms is 100% correct, as the drum brake ones lack the proper mounting points for a disc brake system. But you've got to be careful with which arms you choose, as the wrong ones could end up increasing your rear trackwidth and that's gonna end badly for your handling. As our M-chassis have borrowed a lot of suspension components from 5th gen Civics (EG), I'd recommend searching for EG5/EG6/etc. trailing arms, as they should keep everything in spec. I for one got a pair of EG5 arms to go with my non-ABS system. But that's only part of the problem. If you've somehow managed to get yourself the right trailing arms then you still have to find a matching brake proportioning valve (or prop valve) that splits the pressure correctly between front and rear. Otherwise your rear brakes might either not bite enough, or bite too much and cause the rear to kick out while braking (very dangerous). This is especially important if you've got something like an MOT or TÜV here in Germany, where your car gets an inspection every X years and they check your brake performance. M-chassis Civics also use an old style of prop valve, which makes it EVEN HARDER to find the correct ones. What you generally want to get is called a "4040" valve, which is just the model number, nothing more (some dumbasses online claimed those valves split 40/40, but where the hell would the remaining 20% go?) I also found a nifty table somewhere on an obscure forum, and I don't know where exactly I got it from, so I sadly can't attribute the original poster, but here it is: And depending on the caliper sizing, you might even have to upgrade your master cylinder, but that's getting really technical. So, in short, get the correct trailing arms, a somewhat correct prop valve and maybe upgrade your master cylinder. If you want to do it properly, it's a whole lot more work than just doing enough for it to work. Pro Tip: You can also fine-tune your front/rear balance by using more or less aggressive pads. And regarding rear ARBs, you've got a choice between either buying some used EG6 brackets, using aftermarket ones, and reinforcement braces with mounts included. I went with a used EG6 ARB, plus mounting hardware, because I wanted to try out how much difference just that dingy little thing would make (a lot). Here are a few pics of it both installed, and some pics of the used mounting hardware. You also need fitting lower control arms with mounting holes for the endlinks. And I'd recommend buying new endlinks while you're at it. And maybe a few harder rubber bushings on top. I also had to fabricate some small metal standoffs for the mounting bracket to properly fit to the rear frame (top right picture, the screw just above the yellow marking). This would be the alternative, a rear brace with mounts included: But some places also carry aftermarket versions of the OG hardware that I mentioned and shower earlier, so that's an option, as well. All in all, it's a s**t job with tons of little hang-ups, researching, browsing marketplaces and painful installation, but the handling difference is night and day.

Heya bud imho, dual rads are a terrible idea. They are both looking to dissipate heat, but when connected, if you feel the desire to move rapidly or it's a very hot day, the heat in the rad will affect the condensers ability to be effective, thus you would lose cooling ability. I guess it's like putting you home fridge in front of the radiator, if the fridge can;t shift the heat, the gasses can't re condense and the fridge loses it's ability to be effective. I think it would more be a limit to the age of the technology of the aircon, pressures used today are greater and condensers are far more efficient. I say delete the aircon, get a bigger rad and just drive faster with all the windows down! haha! I say when my MB6 VTIs still has it's full aircon :P

Thank you guys. I'll try to make a topic of the work in the car I've made so far and all the work I want to do. @SirPaperbag The fog lights are not factory ones but some cheep chinese. I found the originals , bought them but I think the front bumber is an aftermarket bumber so I have to cut the whole thing in there to fit the original factory fog lights. Lots of work has to be made generally and have no time. Nevermind whenever I find some free time I will do it. The grille is handmade, I tried to fit the H emblem from my previous EK civic, but it's too big :( Only the small H emblem of the pre-facelift fits. By the way the car was imported from Germany, as the user manual of the car is in German :D

On the night shift downtime and was having a read through this thread, thought the car looked awful familiar. Saw it at cadwell a while back, with presumably its new owner. Looked and sounded amazing, went like f**k too! ahaha

Whoops, hope these work haha. Got round to fitting most the parts - also fitted a k-tuned rep short shifter with a stainless weighted knob which makes the car feel so nice to drive - will get a photo soon. Me and my wife have also had a baby so time and money to work on the car are in short supply!! Next steps are to get the interior sorted - really want to fix the headliner, and seeing Kaleverada's thread has me inspired for the pillars! Also really want to strip out the back, tint the windows & fit bucket seats...

So, did a good bit of work to the car again. This time I installed a proper mounting bracket for the cold air intake as the old hacked-off and jury-rigged intake mani bracket looked pretty bad, to be honest. Also installed a pair of much more serious sounding horns than that little beeper that the car came with. They sound a lot better than the OEM one did, and are quite a bit louder on top! After that I installed a set of new bumper screws - the original ones were completely rusted and cruddy, and one almost stripped completely when I took that bumper off! Then I got to work on my seat-project. As I said in my last post - the original seats make me sit a bit too high for my own tastes and I have been looking for either some high-quality (road legal) seat rails for aftermarket seats from either Recaro or some other brand, or a completely different way to sit lower than the original seats would allow me to. As it turns out ... you can fit CRX seats on the original M-chassis rails if you drill out the rivets and fabricate an adaptor plate out of steel (10mm thick in my case). I got lucky a few years ago and managed to take a pair of these seats off a guy for jsut 250 bucks total. :) Here's how the first prototype looks like: This was only to take a look and see if my idea could even work to begin with, and if it would make me sit lower than the OEM seats would, but as luck would have it ... this combo works flawlessly and I sit about 5 to 8 centimetres lower than I do in the stock seats! :D They are also quite a bit more comfortable, if a bit worn-out. Real plushy. :) But as things stand right now I'll just make a few more refinements to my adaptor brackets, give those seats a thorough cleaning session and maybe add some more side bolstering to give them a bit more of a sporty feel and I've got myself a nice pair of OEM Honda seats that do exactly what I want from them! :D

So, a few boxes full of fun-parts arrived yesterday... :D I'm still trying to find a good machining shop to get a port and polish, a valve-job and to get the rotating assembly properly balanced, but things are slowly progressing on the new engine build. It's going to be unconventional for sure, but I'm going to be fully building an N/A D16Z6 that I've bought for this project. Forged conrods, high compression pistons, stage 2 camshaft, lightened flywheel, the whole nine yards. I've also done some test-fitting already and it seems that the 'LITE'-series of conrods from Skunk2 doesn't require any notching of the block to fit, which is a huge win in my book! Though I had to cobble together a pseudo-piston from a few pieces of plastic and foam for the test-fit, as the pistons I bought are .5mm oversize and I haven't had the block bored out yet. Worked super well, though! But I'm super stoked to see what kind of power gain this is going to get me, and especially how high I'll be able to rev it. Components-wise it should be fine up to 9.000 or even 10.000 RPM, but we all know that it probably won't make much or even any power up that high in the rev-range. Based on my research into other all-motor D16 builds and B20 builds I'm confident that it should definitely hold up to 9.000 relatively comfortably, as many people in the states rev their stock-rod B20s that high without much issue, running only ARP rod-bolts and nothing else. (B20 engines have the same stroke as D16s, btw) It's going to be a while until things get moving properly, but the first step has been taken and all that's holding me back right now is finding that machining shop! :D Some folks are probably going to ask why I would take a D16 that far instead of just going B-Series, and I'm going to answer that by telling you that a B-Series swap costs around four to five thousand Euros where I live. If you can even find one... That's a lot of money for just a stock engine and trans. And it's also why I'm going to spend about the same amount of money to build a D-Series that is going to make roughly the same power, as well. I simply want a built engine. Simple as that. I've always wanted to build a proper all-motor engine and I finally got the chance, both time- and money-wise to do so, and I'm going to do it! :D I've also been doing some research into getting a road-legal bucket seat, or any kind of seat to be honest, because the stock seats are just too high for my tastes and I constantly have to lean forward when I'm stopped at a red light. Someone else on this forum already made an extremely helpful post about the seat rails from Planted Technology, which helped me immensely, but I've also found a local engineering company here in Germany which is able to fabricate everything in-house and even get it entered into the car's paperwork the legitimate way. That comes with its price though... Well, anyways. That's the current state of my project. See ya 'round!

Sensor for the ir remote I believe.

Finally got around to installing my Hondata and let's just say that I might have been a little nervous when I turned that ignition key for the first time, hah! But everything went well, and I now have a running, chipped D16Z9 engine, woohoo! It might be running richer than Jeff Bezos at a marathon for now, but a few good street-tuning sessions are going to take care of that. And I'm talking Lambda-0.8-at-idle-rich; Even a few seconds of cold-start are enough to make the whole courtyard reek of marzipan. Sadly I barely had any seat-time during the past few months, as the bane of every D-Series owner struck - ignition problems. It started as a random ignition stutter (rev-counter visibly took a dip) that quickly ended in a complete engine shut-off on my way home from work, and the car refused to turn back on again for at least five minutes after the initial shut-off. But it weirdly enough acted as if nothing happened when it did decide to work again. Spent a few weeks hunting down the issue, buying a new igniter, new coil, the whole nine yards, but the issue persisted. I suspected that the sensors inside of the dizzy might be the problem and looked up part numbers, but quickly found out that those are not sold separately. Dang it. That's when I went "F*k it, I'm gonna buy a whole damn new distributor." But, as it turns out, 99.9% of aftermarket dizzys for D-Series are hot garbage and people always have to buy new ones as they break down faster than you can say K-Swap. That's chinesium for ya... So I looked at those funny looking "Dragon Fire" -ones, which I admittedly didn't take seriously at first, and through their homepage I found out that they actually meet the IAT standard - Success! If something meets that standard, it's at least not as crappy as all of those cheapo replicas from China. The car has been running fine ever since and even gained a bit of torque down low! :D [A few weeks later...] Last weekend it was finally time for yet another small addition, as I finally grew tired of the original pedals and imported myself these beauties straight from the land of the rising sun. The instructions might be slightly difficult to read, but at least they included some pictures. And, well, installing pedals is kind of self-explanatory, y'know? Quick peek at them, straight out of the box. The installation process is actually super easy, as taking off the OEM accelerator-plastic is the most difficult step in my opinion. But with a small-ish flathead screwdriver and a little bit of convincing you can lift the plastic nose on the top and then just slide it off! After that, simply remove the plastic strips from the double-sided adhesive, set the covers in place and attach the small metal clamps that screw through the pedal covers to sandwich the pedal between the little clamps and the covers. This is what the finished product looks like. :) The clutch and brake pedal have that extremely grippy texture to them, which looks to be some kind of metal foam that has been injected into the frame. (Has even more grip than skateboard-tape!) Oh, and heel-and-toe has gotten a lot easier, as these pedals are a bit fatter than the OEM rubbers. All in all - way too expensive, but worth it. Mmm, take a look at that close-up.

First event today with the Aerodeck and my new retrofit headlights with the headlight covers on, imo they just finish the look of the car! Really stoked with the looks now

Hey all! New here, although I see alot of posts are quite old, its cool to see people still active on these kinds of forums. I thought it would be a great place for information on potential mods, parts and specs regarding civic aerodecks. I know they are far more popular in the UK. Mine is actually the first one I've ever seen in person here in Ireland.

You can put lowering springs in B6 too. Bilstein told me you can use OEM springs or lowering springs. These shocks can take both. I installed the Eibach springs, and they are much better than the OEM springs. You can feel that the suspension works much better with the Eibach springs; I even find it more comfortable than the OEM ones, but I think it lowered a little more than I wanted in the front. At the back, it is very good. I have a friend with an EG Coupe with B8 and Eibach, and I feel it is more arsh compared to mine. I'm of the opinion that you shouldn't put EG stuff on MB when there are MB parts available because something has to change in that particular part; otherwise, they are both the same references. Don't use EK springs because the weight ratings are totally different. The spring plate is indeed a little bit small, but I have been running it for two years without a single problem. On the subject of brake lines, I have had mine secured by zip ties for almost two years without a single issue. Now I need to buy a front camber kit because the camber is at -2 degrees. This camber is a tire killer. I leave a picture of my Aerodeck with Bilstein B6 + Eibach Springs.

Got round to fitting the MG spoiler I got from Craig on here. Quick lick of plastidip and looks the part I reckon

Havent got a lot of photos but a few stickers here and there, New colored lights in the dashboard and a sexy photo in the end;)

Also make nice puuutuuuuuussssshhhh noises now! Haha

This 1978 Civic is on ebay at the moment for £3000 buy it now. At that age it will be tax, MOT and ULEZ exempt. The reg is RJY 893T shown in another photo. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/364126335003

Hi guys and gals I'm Joe and I am the proud owner of a 1995 Civic Ma8. I have been on the forum a few times looking for guidance to keep my old girl going well so thought I should get involved and introduce myself. I got my Civic from my friends Grandfather, who had kept the miles down low and the maintenance upto date. I've owned her for 3 years now, and she's my daily so her mileage is now sitting at a eye watering height of 66k lol. I really enjoy owning her but I do struggle to find the right parts when trying to source replacement bits!!! Online auto-factors "reg checks" are bloody useless, and the fleshy things behind the counters are not much better!! Although I'm convinced they made the early MA'S out of the 'left over parts' shelves in the Honda factories!!! I never know if I should be looking at bits listed for MB's or EJ's Anyhow I hope to learn more soon. Look forward to sharing more in the future. :D

Welcome to the club and good luck with your project! Also used to (briefly) think about a K-swap a few years ago, but I quickly changed my mind after I found out that all the extra bits and pieces you need to make it all fit and work can easily cost twice as much as the K-series engine itself. And as far as I remember you're going to need EG parts for the engine bay, suspension bits and headers. While the M-chassis does share parts with the EJ/EK platform, Integra and EG parts are much more numerous.

Hey all! 3 years SORN... 😢 Got some cash, grabbing some MeisterR, getting the speedlines refurbed and power coated in championship white and... AD08RS... is what I'm going for... right? My beloved VTIs only goes out in summer on dry days, gets jacked, alloys off, battery out, garaged for the rest of the year. So I want great tyres that get love in use and wrapped up out of use. Anyone got any insights? I feel Yoko Advan AD08RS are legit tops, heritage dispite the drop in performance from the AD08 days, but lacking Toyo R888, anyone know of better and why? Any suggestions or fanboy throwins welcome ❤️

Deleted... Been getting a few spams of late. Who in their right mind would click a link to order blue pills from Moscow 😂

Weird Honda didn't seal that bit as it's where most of the crap/spray from the wheels lands! Loving your fabrication skills mate, looks so much better with that pitted area cut out and replaced with fresh steel. one less area to worry about now! Deffo inspired me to learn welding, might look at getting a course in the new year. Is it a mig welder you've got and are you using gas or gasless? Got so many ideas/jobs (not just for the cars, some stuff for the garden and garage too!) where being able to weld would be amazing.

Had the same issue, fixed it by fabricating a set of roughly 15mm thick steel plates that go between the top of the shock assembly and the underside of the strut tower. Couldn't even drive into my garage anymore without scraping the front tow hooks. Now it sits at about the same height as before.

Try strongflex

Back on this project now. Constantly having issues with a flat battery cus car isn't daily driven. So figured fit an isolator so can easily kill the power when parked up. At same time wanted to move the battery to the boot. Been fighting against s**tty weather and not managing to get anything done. Finally a dry few hours. Chose a slightly different battery that will go under the boot floor. Riveted a little plate to battery tray to hold fuse and isolator. Mounted it all up made up some cables. New catch can in old batts place as need 4 breathers now. Hard decision to start on as it's been running so great. But time to disconnect everything and start swapping engine over. Eeeek