Dave

Looking forward to getting these mate! Need some renewed interest in the deck!

Damn thats really strange mate. I cant even check as the deck has a different mechanism, so cant have a look to try and figure whats going on for you.It does sound as thought the mechanism has failed altogether. The only thing I can think of is trying to get that plastic trim off so you can maybe find a way of unbolting the mechanism from the tailgate (as this would then mean the tailgate should be free) but the bolts will be on the underside facing the latch, so not sure if you would be able to undo them from inside the tailgate using mole grips or something? When you push the tailgate down, as its sitting proud, does it stay down? Try pushing it down as hard as you can and get a mate to try the key in the lock again to open it. if that doesnt work, try the same again, pushing down on the tailgate and get them to try the handle next to the drivers seat. Something has to give to let it open. It might be that the lock wont fuily open as the tailgate is sitting up from the latch?

As jake says mate, use a pry bar to check for play in the joints and drop links, as its the only way to tell if they are worn. Sight alone isnt enough. Another thing to check is for play in the front wheels (with the car on the ground as normal). Place your hands on the top of the tyre, and to the back. Give it a really good push pull.............any movement and the top wishbone has gone. Do this on both sides. Are the "D" bushes ok in the ARB? Again, you'll need to use a pry bar or similar to really see what movement there is, and the car will need to be off the ground at the front to check properly, so up on axle stands. Hope this helps

Hmmm, I had this happen on my MA8 years ago, but be damned if I can remember what caused it! I know that I cut an actual flap into the plastic panel on the tailgate that could be removed for access to all the gubbings in case it happened again. Can you get a flat blade screw driver onto the small part of the mechanism mate, the part that goes up? It could be that the larger lower part is worn and isnt pushing the smaller part far enough to fully unlock it. If you can get to it, get someone to operate the lock, and then try and push the smaller part the little bit further with the screwdriver. Hopefully that should be enough to unlock it.

Do the doors lock ok from inside the car, like if you sat in there with doors closed and used the wee button to lock them? If so, then take off the drivers door panel, and have a look at the actual lock from inside the door. Get someone to use the key to try and lock it whilst you watch whats going on with the lock. It could be something as simple as a small plastic clip, to being the actual barrel itself that needs replaced. From inside the door, you can give a good bit of WD40, and also from the outside, slide the key in just a little so you can get the tube on the WD40 can into the lock, and spray some from that side too. Give the lock a good working with the key, to work the fluid into all the parts. It might just be sticky

Yeah, that manifold looks totally different to your original one mate, so not sure if that would work with your engine. Metal ones are available for the D' series though, but are usually made by the likes of Skunk2 etc. That metal one looks a similar design to the plastic one that was on my D14A2 (1.4), whereas the pic of your original one looks more like the one thats on my D16 Deck, although it does look slightly different to mine. And as Tom says, Adam left Civic5 as he wasn't interested in the forum or club, only facebook. Which was a pitty.

Without actually hearing/seeing it mate, it's difficult to say. Almost deffo electrical breakdown somewhere, so all of the parts mentioned above could be the culprit. Do you get the engine management light coming on when it does it? If so, it will probably be the ignitor in the dizzy, a well know fault on these cars. But that will (I think) always show a management light. Happened on my MB6, was intermitent for a while, slowly getting worse bringing the engine to a stop, and was hard to restart, then it finally went altogether. To me, it sounds like a ignition lead breaking down. When was the last time these were changed? Think it may be a case of trial and error to source the fault, replacing the cheapest parts first. Regarding the leak, what did the fluid look like? Was it like clear water? If so, have you had the air con turned on when you've been driving the car? They do by default leave a wee puddle of water under the car when you park up after it's been used. That would explain why you can't see any signs of a leak, as there isnt one (if it is this!). Hope this helps

If it was me mate, I'd go for Honda parts every time, but I'm just fussy about things like that. Some pattern parts are often exactly the same as the genuine manufacturer ones, so can be just as good. But even cheap aftermarket ones should last a fairly long time, so just depends if you fancy a gamble. With track rods, the height of the car shouldn't factor in any extra wear on them, so lowered or standard they should last the same.

Thats a really strange one mate, as the system is designed so that if there's a fault, abs light comes on and abs is automatically disabled. The fact it isnt showing a code could mean its something as simple as one of the sensors is dirty, so try getting everything cleaned (wheels off job) and then try disconnecting the battery for 5 mins then reconnect. See if that solves it. If not, it could be one of the wires to the sensors is breaking down, which without the code will be harder to track down. That can be traced with the help of a mate sitting in the car with it running, and you wiggling each wire to see if the light blinks or goes off. Or it could be one of the rings thats on its way out. Lastly, a fault with the main abs unit (cross fingers it isn't as these are mega expensive new, so if it is, probably best to source a second hand unit), but try the cheap fixes first to see if that cures it.

what a beast!!

I know the genuine Honda brake pads come with these mate, but doubt after market ones will. Think its a brake pad retainer spring/clip, you can call Honda and ask if thyey sell these separate, but I imagine they'll come as a complete kit.

Happy days!

mega impressive mate!

Looking good! Money spent in the right place with the brakes mate. Them sensors are a pain in the MB owners ass, the price for them new is ridiculous! Sounds like you got a bargain! Would have loved to see the owners of the other cars that failed the mot when yours just sailed through!!! lmao

Wow! that just doesnt sound right does it? Feck!!!

lmao!

lol Your MB6 looked amazing at the meet mate, and was great to meet you. Regarding the keep/sell dialema I'd probably keep her if it was me. She's in really great condition, and if you feel the suspensions a tad to hard for everyday running, you can always opt to soften the damping a wee bit. If you think the mb6 is too hard for cruising, you'll be seriously pissed off with the FN2 mate! Although it handles superb, the set up is really overly stiff, and sometimes it's more of a chore to drive it than enjoyable. All depends on what the roads are like where you are. I love the FN2, and even though I've contemplated selling it a few times, there's nothing out there I'd want to replace it with. They are really nice cars, look fresh even though the oldest ones are getting on for 8 years old now, the interior is like nothing else ever, and they're fast enough even in standard trim. But when I jump in the deck, which is lowered on MeisterR's, it just feels nice not to tense up every time you see a bump in the road! I have the suspension set so its a lot stiffer than standard, but its still soft enough to be enjoyable just cruising around. With the FN, unless you change the suspension, you'll be stuck with the hard ride. Difficult one to decide mate! PS: Oh, and if you get a puncture........................................................lmao you've seen the results at the meet! at least with the MB6 you'll be on your way quickly with no hassles!! The FN2 especially if its on big bloody wheels like mine, is a pain! I've had to buy an EP3 wheel as a spare since the meet, but it doenst fit in the spare wheel well. so takes up boot space.

lmao theres no doubting that!

See! We're the wood and chrome promoters!

Damn, you're always the first to know! lmao

Makes sense! I'll have a look tomorrow at some point, as it'll bug me now not knowing for sure! (and the ocd kicks in!)

wholly feck! you'll need to use a trolley jack to get over fag butts! lmao Yeah you're right on the wheels mate, think I saw pics of the EP on them, so deffo a first on the Civic M's. Always good to be the first, a scene setter!

lol Jammy sod!!

hmmm, might be that way round then! Will need to consult the good old Haynes book of bollocks to see what the actual pattern for bleeding the brakes is!

Loving it mate, looking really sweet. Seeing the wheels in black, and with the car being PB, the white lettering reminds me of one that used to be on here years ago. B18 Beans (Ben) had the same theme going on, all black apart from the white tyre lettering, and I just thought it looked the nuts! I'm gonna do this on the deck, as its something I used to do to all my cars years ago. Seems to be making a comeback! You planning new wheels again??? You only just got them lol You're going into chandlers league now with wheel changes! lmao