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  1. Feels like it is going to be itr cam time soon, and thinking about gaskets. I think I know the answer to this, but worth asking the question.... Stick with oem honda gaskets, or are after market ones any good? Honda head gasket kit from tegiwa is £215 https://www.tegiwaimports.com/genuine-honda-upper-head-gasket-kit-b-series-b18c4.html Full rebuild kit from Japserviceparts is £108, but not honda parts. https://japserviceparts.co.uk/product/honda-civic-vti-b18c4-full-engine-rebuild-gasket-kit/
  2. Hi all, need some advice as I think I have made things worse. Was happy about getting the mb6 back out on the road after being stood for years. Long story short, car started up fine with jump start and I took it for a run for 10 miles and all seemed good, no funny noises from engine. I thought I'd give it an oil and filter change so started the car and let it run for 10 mins then gave it a gentle rev, heard a weird squealing noise from the timing belt area which found to be the timing belt rubbed against the plastic cover and shredded into millions of pieces. Checked the timing marks and all seemed good, belt did not jump which was a relief. Problem started when I fitted new belt as I forgot to put spring on tensioner, and I rotated the crank counter clockwise 3 times as stated in the manual not realising that the crank had jumped two teeth from tdc. I put everything back together then started the car, it did struggle to start and when it start, the engine was knocking, I must've let it started for about 10 seconds then turned it off as I knew something was not right. This is when I realised that the timing belt was put wrong by myself. So now I'm worried whether I have caused any damage, like bent valves or even damaged piston. I don't have a clue how to take the head off myself but I was told I can take the spark plugs out and rotate the crank manually to see if there is any knock/slap noise but I'm not certain is this is quite the way to tell for a bent/damaged valve or piston. I'm still learning these engines but now I'm s**tting myself, I made things worse :(
  3. hi all, i done a b18c4 swap on eg and i was wondering if it is possible to de-immobilise the stock p9k ecu to get the car started or is it too much hassle? Also can i use a friends p30 ecu which is mapped but on a b16a2 turbo. i just want to get the car started by my friend is worried his ecu may change settings or something and not work properly when i give it back i've been told a stock p72 ecu will also work but could anyone clarify this is true? thanks
  4. So I think that I know the answer to this question, but I'm going to ask anyway. I've got some itr cams to go in my deck, which hasn't driven for 10 months. It's going to be having some work done, including timing belt, which seems like an ideal opportunity to get the cams in, but getting it mapped isn't going to be possible for a little while, and it's going to need to be mot'd before it drives anywhere. Question is, do I get the cams in now, or forget about it until I can get it mapped? What should I expect if I ran the cams on the p9 ecu?
  5. Now Just need to get my springs on ,45mm be alright?
  6. Nice Little meet with Dream owners club today ,sadly no mb's about .Good catch up

    © V77EC G

  7. Helloo New to this,But I had this issue with all my MBs,The arabian tent ,Ive used glue before ,but now Im just close to giving up,Any Ideas .Maybe Rip off and staple some leather fabric or limo lights those little leds all over could look cool?
  8. Hey guys, long time I know but as soon I get rid of this financed Mercedes I’ll be back on the deck and back here as a regular! in the mean time I’m thinking about my options, I thought I’d post in here so any responses or information that’s given will be there for anyone else scrolling through the engine section. i want to get some gains going on in the bay... so I just wondered if someone could spend a few minutes to explain a bit about the options on all of the following.... cams, throttle bodies, manifolds, ecu’s and anything else sort of related which can acquire improved performance. willing to spend a bit of dough but not after a 2k build otherwise I may as well boost it lol... way out of my budget!! look forward to replies
  9. So, going for full MTEC brake change and fitting some HEL braided lines at the same time. Just gone to take the first front brake hose off. All gone smoothly, drained hose, all disconnected, removed the sliding metal clip for the top fixing where the hose connects to the brake line. AAAnnnndddd.......... What the chuff is still holding this onto the bracket? Ive unscrewed the brake line nut, removed clip on top, can't anything else that should come off or move, is it just the power of 20 years worth of corrosion holding it on? should it pull down through the little bracket? or it it part of the bracket?
  10. So finally got myself a refurbed P28 ecu with Hondata S300 ready to plug and play from H-tune. Took it to a respectable tuner, and in absence of a B18C4 basemap he downloaded a close-enough map from the Hondata website and started with dealing with the engine fault codes that came on. Once sorted out, started the engine, and it would cut off at 2000rpm and not show any codes. After fiddling around the map with the laptop for a while, without any particular reason, the engine started working as normal and he proceeded to map the car on the dyno. Once it was done, i took it for a test drive, and the same thing as in the beginning happened again: limp mode at 2000rpm. Took it back, laptop back on, no fault codes, he looked through the whole map and each menu again without finding any problems, and after a bit suddenly it worked again. So i started driving home, car worked great, and after a while i stopped for coffee. When i started the engine again: limp mode. And no matter what, i couldn't get it working properly again. So had to swap back the original ecu to get back home. The tuner said there isn't really much he can do, since there was nothing to be found with the S300 manager program to point to the source of the limp mode. He said all he could think of was that there's some sort of compatibilty problem with the P28 and B18C4 that doesn't show on Hondata, and my best bet for now would be internet research. So here i am. I've searched the forum pretty thoroughly and read pretty much every thread with P28 on the title, but can't seem to figure this out. Has anyone had a similar problem?
  11. Hi new to the forum, picked up this mb6 totally standard apart from coilover a month ago and since then I've added an omp wheel and quick release, new carpets, added an aem induction kit, aluminium rad and red coolant hoses, decat, custom spark plug cover,bonnet raisers and few wee tidy up bits, I've owned a few hondas before this, had am ej6 civic coupe with a b18c4 conversion and also owned an accord type r, but its quite a clean mb6 so don't want to do to much to it or anything done it can be put back, but interested in probably one of the most asked questions of making the custom projector headlights? And looking a nice set of alloys, recommendations? Thanks
  12. Sooo... it's a third year in a row failing mot due to high emissions. This time it's running quite rich, lambda shows 0.6. Co% and HC about 10 tenfold past the limits. And can't seem to find the source. Here's my investigation so far: - no vacuum leaks - compression test ok - no visible leaks in exhaust system - plugs in need of change but nothing critical about their condition - plug wires ok - timing ok - ecu reseted - worn cap + rotor, a little bit of play in dizzy axle + dizzy a bit noisy = gonna replace distributor. But not in such a bad condition that would explain the richness. - coolant reservoir was empty, only a bit of dark brown muck on the bottom. At first thought it was oil, but when i rinsed it turned out was (atleast mostly) dirt etc. Discovered a small crack on the reservoir lid, might be a cause. Besides the reservoir no other clues pointing to a possibly leaking head gasket. Any ideas what to look for? One suggestion was that a faulty heat sensor etc. could be feeding the ecu wrong info and messing up the mix? Valve stem leak also one possible cause. In addition to the dizzy i'm planning on replacing the ecu with a p28 with Hondata to get better data about what's happening. And ofcourse once it's fixed, then it's tuning time .
  13. Hi, Despite thorough research i can't seem to find a definitive answer to this: which OBD is B18C4, and do i need a conversion harness to install a obd1 P28 ecu? I've only found very mixed answers. Some say that it's obd2a, some say it's obd2b. And that it's got a obd1 loom. So i'm a bit confused here. Anyone? Or can i check this somehow in the car, i've never fiddled with ecus before.
  14. Stock Civic Aerodeck. Manufactured in 1999 and has now completed 130,000 miles
  15. Well my aerodeck will be back on the road next month and I cant stop looking into boosting it. so I'm getting to grips with everything I'm going to need for the build. This is what I've got up to now. Any advice on how to do this and on parts will be greatly appreciated b18c4 turbo build parts list racetech turbo kit: Reconditioned Twin Scroll TD05 Turbocharger Race-Tech SS Equal Length Manifold Race-Tech SS 2.5" Downpipe Race-Tech SS Braided Oil & Water Lines Race-Tech Alloy Intercooler w/Pipework & Joiners OEM MLS Gaskets (Manifold>Turbo & Turbo>Downpipe) All Fitting Hardware fueling: Grams 550cc injetors WALBRO 255 FUEL PUMP ecu: socketed p28 other parts: induction/air-filter skunk2 pro series intake manifold cheers Dan
  16. Anyone adjust their spark plug gap from the standard 1.1mm? If so, why? Been looking into this online but seem to find conflicting answers. I'm interested for 2 reasons: lower emissions to pass mot and/or better full throttle performance on the track.
  17. Last year i failed the emissions test part of MOT. Co% was high, sorted that out by changing the oxygen sensor. Also HC was way too high but after replacing a burnt distributor rotor and cap it was back to normal. Last friday for this years MOT i failed the emissions test again, with the exactly same results. I haven't checked anything yet but i'm assuming the same parts are in need of replacing again. Any idea what might be destroying them?
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