dr_broon

Glad you got it sorted mate 😎

@Dave - do you know the answer here? I've got a feeling I've heard of this being done but not sure

Actually, here's the sms chat about the whole thing... How that helps. Let me know if you need any of the links in that chat

If you did want to reach out to the guy who did mine, I got them refurbished in purple... Might help him remember

Hi. I'm sorry buddy, I don't have (or remember) any more info other than what's on this thread. Does the crz (assuming that's what they're for) share the same (or similar) calipers as the mb6 /MC2? These are the part numbers I can confirm that they're still going strong though. The only other bit of info I can share is the guy who did the work for me: https://www.caggersparts.com/index.html It's been a while since @shebabby was on the site, but tagged here just in case

Probably best to try and use a honda parts website to get the oem parts numbers to double check fitment. I've had standard brembo disks and pads on a couple of different cars and they've been fine 👍

Could into ones for mg/rover - I bet the connector is different, but motor might be right.

It's the passenger footwell on the stepwagon.. Think that's the windscreen as the gutter behind the scuttle panel wasn't just dry and clear, it was dusty 😂

@Jimbob738

Yes mate, was a bargain and it's needing some cosmetic tidying up but I love it.. It's the opposite to my go kart estate but great

I can't get away from honda... Since meeting the wife when she had a 106,we've been an all honda household for nearly 20 year 😁

Nice one Jimbob. Glad you've still got old girl 😎

Nice pair on the drive there 😎

There was a guy from the US based in Germany who had one, but that's the only other deck I remember

Welcome along mate. Start a member's car thread so we can see your car. 😎 I'm quite partial to an old volvo.. Do you have one at the minute?

Hi, There's not many after market options to be honest, and the ones that you can get are a bit extreme (if they're even available anymore). Oem is probably the best option (second hand). Some mg zs parts can be used - side skirts definitely (I've got them on my aerodeck) and boot spoiler as well. Not sure about front and rear lip though. I know that a few people have experimented with other bits and bobs, like @Craigblight86

A custom aluminium bonnet is on my fantasy list of mods

There hasn't been any soak posts since approving the first batch.. Might be worth monitoring and maybe removing the manual approval?

Sounds good mate, interested to see the DRL setup. I must admit I nearly always drove around with at least side lights on... Must be off having volvos as a kid 😁 Was getting ready to say where are the pics until you said you'd upload them at the end 😂

I was curious, so this is what AI has to say about it: 1. Finding the "Plastic Drag / 1-Time Grind" Noise Since the noise happens when turning the wheel both while stopped and moving, it is directly related to components that pivot when the steering knuckle rotates. Here are the most likely culprits based on what you replaced: The CV Boot Rubbing (Very Common) Since you just changed the CV boots, this is the prime suspect for a "plastic drag" sound. The Issue: New aftermarket CV boots (especially thermoplastic ones, which feel like hard plastic rather than soft rubber) can be slightly stiffer or larger than OEM. When you turn the wheel, the folds of the boot can rub against each other, or the boot can rub against the front shock fork (clevis) or the lower control arm. How to check: Peek behind the wheel while someone turns the steering wheel. Look closely at the outer and inner boots to see if they are binding or touching the suspension geometry. Dry Ball Joints or Bushings You replaced the upper arms, ball joints, and bushings. The Issue: If any of the new ball joints came without pre-packed grease (or very little grease), they will protest immediately under the weight of the car. Also, if you tightened the bushing bolts while the car was up on jack stands, the rubber is now under massive, incorrect torsional stress when the car sits on its wheels. How to check: Suspension bushings must always be torqued down only when the car is at its normal ride height (wheels on the ground or ramps). If you torqued them in the air, loosen them up, let the car sit on its weight, shake it a bit, and torque them to specification. Brake Dust Shield Bent The Issue: While changing the CV boots, ball joints, and shocks, you have to muscle the steering knuckle around. It is incredibly easy to accidentally bend the thin metal brake dust shield just enough that it lightly contacts the brake rotor or the steering knuckle when the wheel pivots. How to check: Look behind the brake rotor to see if the metal shield is dangerously close to any moving parts. Push it back by hand if it is. 2. Is the CV Axle In/Out Play Normal? Short Answer: Yes, absolutely normal. Do not worry about the horizontal play you are feeling while the car is on jack stands. Why it happens: As your suspension moves up and down (and when the car is lifted on stands), the distance between the transmission and the wheel hub changes. To accommodate this, the inner CV joint (the plunge joint) is designed to slide in and out like a telescope inside its housing. What matters: As long as the inner axle is clicked securely into the transmission casing (won't pull out entirely) and the outer axle nut is torqued down tightly to the wheel hub, a little bit of lateral "in and out" play is exactly how the system is engineered to work. Your Next Steps to Locate the Noise Because maths and logic are on your side here, you can isolate this systematic error easily: The Helper Test: With the car safely on the ground, have someone turn the steering wheel left and right while you safely place your hand on the new upper arm, the spring, and near the CV axle (keep clear of moving parts). You will literally feel the vibration of the grind/drag in the component that is causing it. Check the Inner Steering Play: You mentioned a small amount of play in the inner steering rack. While "not even 1 inch" might feel small at the steering wheel, any physical play inside the steering rack or inner tie rods can alter the alignment geometry under load, causing a binding sound elsewhere. Keep an eye on it, but focus on the rubber/plastic friction areas first. Obviously, treat that with caution as it's from ai, but could be done useful things to check (it's helped me out with a few things now, as well as causing me problems like deleting all my passwords in my Google account 😂)

Sorry, noisy ball joints is the limit of my experience of weird noises (but it's happened so many times to me). Hopefully someone else will have done options to check