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  1. Hi! I had new clutch in 2015 (aisin), before that, shifting gears was smooth, except the worn clutch. After the change, 2nd gear is harder to shift a bit and in 4th gear I feel the knob moving a tiny bit on pushing and releasing gas pedal. So I guess its nor syncro, since it was smooth shifting before that service. Using MTF-3. Since that, I've got a new clutch again, but it wasnt the problem, cuz its still doing that. My last idea is linkage bushing replace maybe. Looking for advices, ideas about the problem, also looking for info about lingage bushing. which, where etc. cheeers
  2. Hi all, for the past week I had a problem with my MB6. I took it home from a complete maintenance at a workshop, including cambelt, water pump,... Suddenly when I was driving around a few days later I've spotted that the temperature slightly rises up, nothing too exciting. But next day when the car was running idle the temperature rises again and the fan didn't even engage. Thought there is something wrong I parked it and the next morning I was looking under the bonnet just to see that there is no coolant fluid, completely dry. Bought new, filled it to full and did some test drives. Turns, city center, some full gases. Checked the water immediately after that, the car was still idling, temp ok, the fan went on and off, coolant full. After that I drove the car about 3kms home and the next morning 3kms back to garage. When I was about to drive home today I checked the water just to see its dry again.... Any ideas? Haven't spotted any leaks so far, exhaust smoke as normal. Engine in perfect condition. Thank you all. PS: Lately I had a problem with VTEC not engaging if that could be all one problem.
  3. Hello guys. Please dont be angry if i mistake subforum. 7 days ago my deck VTi suddenly died. Had working well for a long time. 7 days ago, i took of distributor and cables, and swap them for a test on MB6. MB hardly starded because of jammed injector, but even with my injector, had problems with starting. But its starded. After that, i just unmount everything and mount back to my engine, and problem. Pretty same symptoms like on MB6. Car or dont start at all, or start, but had chocking on 2k rpm when i press gas pedal. If i run over those revs, engine or choke again, or accept gas up to limiter. It idle perfectly. And then, no ignition at all. Yestertay i ordered new ignitor, and same symptoms, but this time it starts easier, but again hard. Sometimes it start up after 1-2 seconds, sometimes it cranks for a long time, and it sometimes start, sometimes engine got loud crank noise with loud suction noise in air filter, and no ignition or like ignition in reverse. Also tried to put on other used cap, and no benefits. Car runs on petrol and LPG, and before this it worked perfectly on both fuels. Now it acts the same on both fuels, so i doubt that the fueling is the problem. Ignition coil is replaced 5 months ago. Every cable drops spark on engine block with scredriver spark test. Spark plug is dry. Cap and rotor looks pretty goor. Distributer interior is dry, and rust free. Change of engine timing also doesnt make any difference. In the dark there is no visible spakring either on distributor or somewhere on the cables. Do anyone know what might be, i am desperate.
  4. Hi! Injectors are very noisy on my b18c4. Is it normal they have ticky sound? Any ideas for cleaning? Long time ago, I used some fuel system cleaner stuff added to normal 95, after that, I replaced fuel fllter. then I used 95 premium around 70% of my fuelings, to keep the system clean. other 30% is normal 95..
  5. What engine code will I have in my 1999 Civic 1.4 ils, manual? Looking for a cambelt kit and theirs two kits available with a different number of teeth on the belts
  6. So today, I, completely and utterly f**ked up. Did a full service, gasket change, checked for warpages etc (had blown head gasket for like 2 months but not time to do it), valve lash adjustment, brakes etc. Basically a pre-winter overhaul before I start building a D16 to drop in. I got round to torquing the bolts and noticed they were about (exactly, on measurement) 20mm longer. The bolts were longer but no-issue, I've worked in parts before and know that 1 part can cross reference 100 vehicles all with various odd differences so just ran with it. Chased threads with an old bolt and then dropped the head on dropped all the bolts in and started in sequence going up to hand tight then started torquing with the wrench. First steps 14ft-lb (according to local Honda parts dept) then 39ft-lb and final 2 stages both at 49ft-lb to ensure complete seal. I did steps 1 and 2, no issues, threads were perfect but noticed the bolts were sat at around 16-18mm above the face of the head. At this point I was looking and couldnt figure out what was going on. I got my dad outside to look and give an opinion (chartered aerospace engineer) who was a bit confused but said "is that the last step of torque?" I said no there are 2 others, he then pointed out that they might close down in the 3rd step because you know they used 4 steps for a reason. I agreed. I did the 1st bolt in the sequence and there was a ping, I froze, looked down as water started pouring out the front of the block. I did not swear, cry, shout or anything I just stood in disbelief. I removed a bolt and did a size comparison and found exactly 20mm was different and I'd hit the bottom of the block. as I continued to torque the bolt couldn't go anywhere but outwards. Damn.
  7. So as a few of you may know, I'm swapping to a K Series (Honda K20A, Not a Rover!) engine in the next few months with parts being stockpiled as we speak. I noticed last night a bubbling coming from the overflow tank after a pretty good day weather wise here in the M̶i̶d̶l̶a̶ Outer Mongolia... but ignored it, checked levels of fluids etc not much lower than last time I checked but put this down to the bubbling caused by the car running hot (can't rely on the temp gauge, its never really worked right since day 1 of owning the car but I'm not that bothered with the planned engine swap). Fast-forward to today, set out for my journey to work (45mins) and no warm air at all, by the time I got about 10mins out of the yak herding village I work in I heard the bubbling again and then a hissing noise. Fans are all kicked in no issues there, ran heater on hot but it was icy cold. Once I got to work I popped bonnet and noticed I had burbling in the expansion/overflow and there was the dreaded steam coming from just below the head.. I honestly don't want to f**k around taking heads off, changing gaskets and such for at most 3 weeks so I pose this question to You, Have You ever used anything in the regions of Steel Seal, Engine Seal by MCP or anything that will allow me to use the car for a couple of weeks at very very most?. I tried Barrs stop leak after hitting a badger in Dorset once while driving the Micra, stopped a bit of a leak enough to get me home but nothing enough to seal a headgasket as far as I can remember. On the upside of things Steel Seal offers a "Money Back guarantee" which is always a bonus but its £40 a bottle!! Like I said I really don't want to be f**king around changing gaskets if the engines gonna be binned or stuck on fleabay in a months time being replaced by a K20!
  8. Hi guys, So my gears started becoming harder to change lately, and there's been some strange whining noises in between certain gears. My mechanic has advised me that the Release bearing in the clutch might be the cause. So instead of changing the bearing, I'm thinking of getting a whole new clutch kit while I'm at it, and after some ebay and forum browsing I've seen alot of Brands such as the famous Exedy and other brands that I don't recognize such as CG Motorsports, Black diamond, and so on. I'm maybe considering getting a Competition stage 2 clutch since I'm always burning through my current (high revs) (also probably the cause of my current situation). So any of you guys have experience with clutches that can advise me on a good one to get?
  9. Morning all, Long time lurker here looking for some advice. I was driving to work this morning and noticed the gears were becoming increasingly difficult to select. What's the average cost of replacing a clutch? Car is a Vti s aerodeck. Thanks for any advice Cheers Dave
  10. Anyone fitted a blox intake themselves is there a hoe to anywhere
  11. Is this the normal price thought they where more
  12. Hi folks, just looking for some input for my gearbox set up to go in my track car. I have to leave the engine standard so want to make best use of the power avaliable. I'm looking for the shortest gearbox avaliable which I hear is a s80, 4.7 final drive with 4th and 5th from s4c. Think it has LSD aswell but not sure. Will also be fitting uprated clutch and lightened flywheel. Going to remove the power steering aswell to give me back the small amount of power it takes to run. Anyone know if there is a better gearbox I should be looking at and what I can do to improve it remembering it will be used for racing. Is there also anything else people can think of to get the most out of the engine and improve reliability? Thanks
  13. Anyone got one fitted and are they any good or is it best to get remapped after fitting
  14. Another project on the go this will be setup for track use. Honda Integra DC2 Type R 98 spec What it looked like when we picked it up More to come
  15. Hello all! After a long time thinking of what build i want to go with im leaning towards N/A but i have a couple of questions to ask:- 1. Is there any definite mods i should do that helps power 2. Is there a different head option that would help? 3. What kind of clutch would i need for a 220bhp build? stage2? 4. I have big fuel injectors, will i benefit from these on n/a? PS. running a b18c4 with 2.5" exhaust and whale p***s induction. Thanks!!
  16. So my clutch has started slipping. Still driveable but certainly noticeable if I've just gone up a hill or gone a bit spirited/hard on the clutch. Now, I've downloaded the manual and have a Haynes guide. I'm pretty handy, having done all the work on motorbikes (clutch, etc) and have a certain amount of tools. My only question is how involved is it? Do I need to take the whole engine out, any special tools (and how much they cost), what clutch do I go for, anything else worth checking/doing while I do the clutch, etc. Basically want to know anything there is know. It's a '98 mb3 with over 130k on the clock. It's higher, I just never pay attention to how much higher. I know it's possible to buy a new mb3 but there's the hassle of insurance and then cancelling and then taking out a new policy with the new car. And tbh. I'm kinda using this mb3 as a guinea pig for when I hopefully get an mb6 later on and I've perfected everything I want to do. Won't mind having the car in bits for 3 days if need be. And would I need help from someone else or doable as one man army?
  17. Could people give advise. I am thinking to replace the original hose of my filter for my CL7 (picture attached). I would like know if this will help or make a difference with anything? Thanks
  18. Anyone tried one of these if so what they like for noise
  19. Hello all, I have came across a weird whine coming from the gearbox side of things. The whine is like when you try to accelerate in reverse but it only happens when im up at say 30+ and i slightly press the accelerator pedal like im trying to maintain speed. it usually gets worse the faster i go but as soon as i let go of the throttle it stops? Any ideas? Cheers!
  20. So i spent a fair portion of this morning removing the old airbox from my MB2 and fitting an aftermarket Cold Air Intake I was absolutely shocked at just how big, complex and well secured the old air box was... There are so many compartments and redirections of the airflow that its amazing the engine gets any air at all! Need to get a new intake pipe with a socket for the Airflow Meter then i can get rid of the last small compartment on that one and have a proper air intake system with no stalling of airflow. P.S. Nice throaty sound under throttle now, just need to get myself an exhaust to match and il be happy with the noise side of things
  21. Previous to last winter the screw that holds the bracket with the small AC pulley has snapped by itself, probably due to cold/vibrations. Just wondering if it's repairable without engine removal. Regrettably I had an engine rebuild done the previous spring so I don't want to spend big money on engine removal just to replace one screw (the old one needs to be drilled out so not sure if that can be done with the engine still inside since it is on the side of the engine) Last summer was quite bad without the working AC and this summer is supposed to be even worse, so I might reconsider the repair ;o]] I've marked the pulley and the bolt on the attached pictures
  22. As above, my mb6 every now and again will hesitate on part throttle when cruising. I can accelerate a bit more and it will then be fine. Anyone ever had any similar symptoms? cheers
  23. Hi guys, I've picked up a PLM 2.5" exhaust manifold and wondered whether the flange will connect to my 2 1/4" decat or will I need to weld a 2.5" flange on? I'd take it off the car, but it's a lot of faff if it's not going to fit.
  24. Hello everyone. Atm, my b18c4 has header, catback, magnaflow muffler all 2.5". I also have skunk2 intake, skunk2 throttle body, k&n filter and cold air feedbat the front bumper. I was thinking abou getting a p28 or a p1j to chip. But my question is, wich basemap should I use ? Thanks
  25. Valve cover and inlet waiting for engine to be finished then in it goes to my mb6
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