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It almost seems old fashioned to create a build thread these days on the age of social media (one of the worst things that happened to the car community is the 2382834 facebook groups full of scammers and people asking the same questions over and over - but thats a rant for another day). I always find they are a great thing to do, if for nothing else for my own benefit to remember what I did previously 🙃 also found lots of great gems of info already on this forum - and more to discover im sure A bit of backstory - I've been bitten by the Honda bug after buying a 2010 Honda Accord with a K24Z engine - I'd originally intended to get something as a cheaper, ULEZ compliant run-around (I don't live anywhere near a ULEZ but sometimes have to drive into them for work) after getting bored with a non-ULEZ diesel Mercedes that i'd owned previously. I then discovered the scene for those cars, and good they look with the right modifications. I love it to bits but it's heavy, and the modifications you can do are somewhat limited by it having the less desirable R40 head on the engine and the rarity of 2.4 petrol, manual examples in the UK. Most buyers bought a diesel version (it was peak era of buyers being encouraged by the government to buy a diesel - how the tables have turned). I only know of a handful of others in existence and even fewer are modified. They are popular in the USA so some tuning parts are available over there but it often results in expensive shipping, import duties and long waits for things to arrive, and no chance to get anything second hand as most sellers aren't willing to ship internationally. Me and my father in law have been looking for a project to do together for a while as we've reached the end with most of our other projects (mostly just repairs and upgrades to our other cars) - initially I thought maybe a restoration project but we went to a car show recently and saw lots of cool JDM cars and thought that it might be an idea to do something along those lines. I have always been interested in a K-swap of sorts anyway and as I know quite a lot about Hondas and K-series engines from modifying my accord a plan was formed.. Initially I started looking at the usual suspects for a K-swap like an EG, EK, etc but we missed the boat on getting one for a good price and even rotten examples are changing hands for more than £2000 now, so I started digging into more unusual choices. After speaking to an acquaintance he mentioned to me that the MB civic might be a good place to look as it shares a lot of parts with Civic EG and Integra DC2, two now (to me at least) unaffordable cars but with great aftermarket support. I also looked at a few more leftfield choices like a really high mileage Honda CR-Z (came to the conclusion the subframe was rotten) and a Honda logo (too much fabrication). The MB/MC seems to be the last affordable 90s Honda, so it was now or never. I found a low mileage MB2 for sale. It was a 1.4i model, completely base spec, but that didn't matter for our purposes. In fact, I was quite interested because it didn't have a sunroof, and I've had nothing but grief with sunroofs in the past letting in water and making the car smell like an "old man's ball sack" (as my fiancée succinctly put it), and the low spec didn't really matter anyway for what we were going to do. Because of the low mileage (56,000) and original looking condition, including what I believe to be original dealer plates and stickers, I thought this could be a promising lead on a shell. It's very late for an MB2 - March 2001 on a Y plate - I've seen EP/EU civics rolling about on older W and X plates so they must've been sold at the same time - it would've looked and felt incredibly dated by comparison I imagine! The pictures weren't great as they were clearly from an auction (you know the ones I mean with the car photoshopped badly onto a showroom backdrop) I arranged with the seller dealer to go and see the car (near Bradford by the way - the stereotypes are alive and well) and when we arrived I was told the car wasn't available as there was "a problem with it" and it was parked at his house (undoubtedly this is why it was auction in the first place). Whilst being annoyed at him, I explained that we wanted to buy the car as a shell anyway and asked what was wrong - some kind of overheating issue - so we went around the corner to have a look at it on a driveway. The car looked fine although very dirty, and the sills/bodywork etc seemed to be solid other than normal age related surface rust and mileage genuine as the seats look almost new. The bodywork was unfortunately a bit tatty with various dubious repairs and perished rubbers but it's to be expected for the price/age. I took it for a quick test drive - which was a particular highlight as the prospective seller lit up a cigarette while I was driving around - without asking permission might I add - but other than the rising temperature everything seemed fine, so we agreed a price - so I drove it to the nearest petrol station, bought a bottle of radiator sealant (it seemed to be losing coolant) and poured that in, along with some water, and then drove it 1 hour home with the windows open and heater blowers on full to try to make sure I didn't break down on the M1. The car made it back fine although the temperature was climbing when stopped in traffic, it went down again when on the move. Here's the only picture I have of it at the moment: The current plan is basically to do a K-swap with a K24A with mild upgrades (K20 oil pump, 50 degree VTC), and an EP3 civic gearbox. We would love to build a boosted car eventually, but lets get the basics done first. As it's a heavier (by 90s standards) car and K24s are much cheaper these days, it seemed a better choice than a K20. In terms of styling i'm not really sure at the moment - probably try to keep it OEM+ for sleeper factor although not full sleeper - the wheels will definitely need to get changed as it's currently running 175 wide 14" tyres, budget brand that were getting on 10 years old (can confirm - they have no grip whatsoever). Watch this space 👀

Is anyone headed to JDM JAM at Donnington? https://www.donington-park.co.uk/2025/may/jdm-jam The Broons are booked up for it 😎 looks like it's going to be a good day

Hey guys, this is my aerodeck so far, I have some plans for the interior next month, so I'll keep you guys posted

I picked up my mb4 a few months ago. I thought i would start a little thread where i post a few pics now and then.... The first few pics are from after coilovers and wheels. Unfortunatly my old phone died with the before pictures.. Currently i have installed coilovers, new set of wheels, custom "type r" grill and a few small things... Plans for next month is custom headlights (angel eyes & demon eyes) with app control if possible. Updates are gonna come when things are getting done slowly. If any questions, feel free to ask.

Finally getting around to a build thread for my third car It all started on a dull early may day. A Friend of mine messaged me, asking if I needed any parts from her MB4 before she scrapped it. It had been sitting on her drive since she her daughter had been born. I said to her, "let me know what the scrappy offers, and i'll chuck £50 on top and come grab it", knowing that the d16w4 powerplant in this could replace my lathargic D14 in my MB2 The next day me and a mate collected it, threw some trade plates on and ran up to my workshop. Even with the old 4 speed slush-box, and a years neglect, the MB4 walked away from my MB2 on a straight bit of road. Once we arrived, my friend parked the car up and then headed home. I then stood and had a smoke, looking at this car having a "Wangan midnight" esque moment, seeing the colour of the Sicilian Red paint for the first time. Plans had changed. (see attached image) Rust and engine work: First I got the car up on stands and made a list of everything wrong with it. The rear passenger sill and inner arch passed the good old screwdriver test, however the driver's side failed miserably, along with a few places around the front jacking point, and front inner arch. Out came the grinder, welder, and some conveniently shaped and cut sheet metal that I would be using to patch these big holes. This was a steep learning curve, as I have only ever done agricultural welding, and never thin bodywork. Once the rust was dealt with next came the auto box - I had never planned to keep this gearbox, so the hunt for an s20 close ratio box began. During this time, the auto box, torque converter and PRND lever were all disposed of in an appropriate fashion (Thrown into a skip as fast as humanly possible🤣), meanwhile, the engine was suspended by a ratchet strap around 2 on the gearbox bolts, and a random 2x4 i had laying about across the wings (See attached) Whilst the box was off, I decided to replace the rear main seal, sump gasket, and clean out the oil pickup tube. A few shiny parts were fitted during this time too, including an oil sandwich plate with senders for both oil pressure and temp, HKS oil filter, TTV flywheel and an exedy stage 1 clutch. Once I sourced a box, the new mounts were fitted up and after a copious amount of faffing around the engine and box were in. (I wish I had an engine crane!!) I altered the wiring on the PRND plug to disable the inhibitor switch, as well as the reverse lights. I finished under the bay by rebuilding the distributor, replacing the plugs and HT leads. I also added a bus bar to the firewall as my battery was going to be boot mounted. I am using a Janspeed 4-2-1 manifold, a smashed out OEM cat shell and a Skunk2 megapower exhaust system. I have a Whale pen15 air intake as well. Interior: This car had a creme interior, which I knew wouldn't survive me daily driving it. I quickly tore this out, installed a load of sound deadening and the various wires i'd be needing for my ICE setup, then fitted a black carpet and VTI "bus seat" interior. I mounted the battery and circuit breaker in the spare wheel well, as well as a power distribution block. this would be needed when I got around to building the boot and fitting my 3 amps. I finished the interior off with an oil pressure and temperature gauge set, a fire extinguisher, and an old school pioneer flipout headunit + DVD player. Exterior: The exterior is largely untouched, as it is the rare sicilian red pearl colour. This car was factory specced with a full VTIs kit and Jordan wheels. The jordan wheels went onto my other MB2, so that I could fit my 15" TSW imola wheels. I welded the rear wiper hole up, and the old spoiler holes. I then fitted an "auto spoiler", which had been preiovsly fitted to a friend's recently imported 200sx. This was an almost perfect colour match.

Couldn't get into old account so started new one hope that ok. This my civic

Hey people I had a few questions about the D15Z8 motor and using a D16Z6 head. First, the big connector on my D15Z8 distributor is a 7-pin, not an 8-pin like the OBD2 on a D16Y8. So, does this mean I can use the distributor on a D16Z6 head swap? Second I have taken off my oil pan and I have seen that on the bottom of the engine it says P2A does this mean this motor is a D16? And last if I use the Z6 head on my motor do I need to have an adjustable cam gear to make it work and how do I need to set it in degrease to make it work.

Hello everyone :) I have a Honda MB6 and I would like to know what I have to do in order to fit the ITR DC2 96 (114.3x4) wheels in the MB6. Would be extremely grateful if someone could help me out Thank you

Hello Guys Just thought i would give you an update on the ol' MB6 Project. Ive been very busy as of recent sourcing panels for the restoration. Im very chuffed to find some Genuine Body panels including the Whole Upper sill and rear outer arch. Alongside that i have also sourced some Rear inner arch Extension panels where the Sills Meet the Wheel Arch. Unfortunately the Lower/Inner Sill section was no where to be found alongside the front outriggers but thats not an issue at all. i will be starting to Fabricate some New Lower/Inner Sill sections as if you don't know already the Civic MA/MB has Three Segments to the lower sill. The First part being the Front Jacking point section which starts at the sill then wraps itself round the front chassis legs and subframe mounts. Then there is the Middle section where the Front seatbelts are Anchored to. This section is Spot welded to the floor pan to create a sandwich effect (lovely rust trap btw). The Panel Itself is an L Shape as it also forms apart of the inner sill as its all one pressing. Thankfully the rust has not spread up into the vertical section of the panel as the rust has only ate away at the lower part probably due to all the water being trapped there. and Finally the Last segment being the Rear Sill Extension assembly which contains the rear jacking points and the Semi Trailing arm bush mounting. With Fabricating these lower segments it is pretty simple Its just a 90 Degree bend with a flange where the outer skin is spot welded to. With Rover at the time having a Partnership with Honda Luckily the 400 and 45 is the same car in terms of bodywork pretty much. Hence why i have bought Rover sills and Rover Inner Arches (they're probably cheaper too) and they will do the same job. Part Numbers if needed ALA120220 for the Side Panel (do note the side panel is a saloon not a hatchback as they are no longer available.) ALX140020 and ALX140030 for the Rear inner arches. The idea will be to chop the sill segment and rear arch segment off the genuine panel and to replace what is the rotten part on my Civic. With this i can maintain the original pressings of the panel such as the grommet holes. Hopefully in the New year i can get round to producing the Inner sill segments to be used.

Hi guys, I'm looking into buying a HKB Boss for my Civic MB3 (1997). Does anyone have any information as to what boss will fit the spline for my specific model? I've seen a few people say it's the OH-206 DC2/EG boss but just want to make sure. Cheers

Hi im new to the forum proud owner of a red MB3 vtec-e from Sweden slmost rust free execpt key hole for the trunk. i was a owner of the same car for a few years back and i remember that there is an econo light that is green for better gas consumption. in my civic now the green light never appeara during drive. Only when i start up the car when all the dash lights light up and goes away. im suspecting my vtec isnt working properly ( no CEL ) i tried to rev the car out and i feel an ” light omph ” with vtec. But whats bothering me is my gas mileage sucks cuz the green light isnt working properly. i tried ohm testing the vtec. I unplugged the cable used the cable from the solenoid and ground it to body of vtec same as car metal but no readings there. I might do it wrong but i need help to test it properly and what the testing acutally means.

Hello, i have MB6 and i want to completly replace all bushes on car. I cant find hardrace bushes for mb, can i use it from EG or ITR? anyone have any experience? Thanks

Hi Guys! I have a problem.I had the AC compressor changed fully charged and it still stalls when warm. IACV cleaned(but no cooling line connected) Engine:D14A8 block D16Z6 cylinder head D16Z6 intake manifold with throttle body Lightened flywheel. Thanks for the support!😄✌️

jan 2020. Got a bit of time so thaught I'd start another project thread document my progress with my latest honda. My last civic ended up quite a machine. But unfortunately I had to make the decision to let it go to buy a house. Once got my finances back on track. I really fancied another mb6 as always had a soft spot for them. A another member offered me a clean car so went on a bit of a road trip down south to pick it up. It has just had an engine rebuild fully documented with every receipt and ran sweet as a nut was very happy with it. Unfortunately it only made it 100 miles back towards the Midlands and the bottom end developed a knock. Was pretty p**sed off tbh. But what can I do.

Hi All, Figured I should actually start a post after years of lurking on here - A big belated thanks to all the various threads I've read up on! Think I did post up a 'Hello' thread years ago but it seems to have disappeared. I've had the car for about 5 years now and its a proper joy to drive. Thought it was just because it was my first car and having nothing to compare it to, but after driving/having other cars these Hondas are fun! Only recently started modifying it properly now the insurance isnt shafting me! Mod list: VTIS Front Lip & Skirts (Have the rear lip aswell but prefer it without) Optional Extra OEM big fogs! Leather Steering Wheel - think its the VTIS/Sport one? Honda alloys off an EP (I think) with Toyo Proxies CF2's Heko Wind Deflectors 2.25" Gravity Performance Spoon N1 rep stainless catback Exhaust (For an EJ/EM - just had to lengthen the backbox pipe) - with custom baffle as its too bloody noisy, should have gotten a smaller tubed exhaust! MGZS shocks & springs all round Future plans: Double rear fogs - in the blank space on the tail lights. Coilovers - The car is sitting high at the front with the MGZS setup, the D14 engine is too light for the springs really. When I swapped the suspension from the stock setup the rear dropped 25mm but the front remained the same, I even tried ZS120 springs but no difference. So it'll be nice to even it out and lows! New LCAs & MGZS rear ARB - Ive had this for about 4 years now waiting to go on! The MB2's LCA's dont have the bolt hole needed for the ARB's drop links annoyingly. Need to pick up some EG LCAs but will sort the coilovers first so the shocks fit onto them. Front Strut brace. K&N panel filter (waiting to go on) Rear wiper delete (waiting to go on) Vinyl wrap the chrome trim. Projector headlights (have a spare set of lights just need to get projectors etc) Various maintenance (timing/clutch). Dreams: Respray Engine swap Cheers, Dan

Hello all Haven’t been part of a forum for a very long time, but thought there might be some helpful bits I’ll find whilst doing work on the car and need to find on here too. Last car s**t the bed on me and I needed something reliable and somewhat cheap to drive, plus it had to be something I’d enjoy driving and owning, all on a not very large budget. Searched eBay and auto trader for anything Honda and looked at a few different chassis until I came across the mb2. There were a few around but all more money and worse condition than I would have liked, or literally the other side of the country and I didn’t have time to drive that far to get them. Settled on a blue 1.4s mb2 that was around the Leeds area so not too far from me, garage guy wanted a grand, decent condition, few decent scratches too, 56000 miles and no history. Perfect for me. Went to go see it on the night time as only time I could go due to work, car was filthy, oily handprints all over it and didn’t start because of a flat battery. Not a promising start. Test drive was a bit lacklustre, was used to driving a mk1 Octavia vrs so it was a super slouch in comparison, true grandad mobile but instantly I wanted it. Pointed out a few bits on return and said “800 good for you?” He said yes. Few days later I looked in the boot and found they’d left an Autotel code reader/multimeter that’s about £150ish, didn’t know if they’d left it in there so I could clear the eml light on the dash that appeared on the way home but that’s what I stuck with Didn’t take any photos of it before the AliExpress parcels started coming in so I think these are the earliest After it’s first proper clean and wax, paint is in lovely condition, pretty sure it’s a dead man’s car, garaged and lightly used. Alloys are wrecked though, heavy corrosion and really badly brush painted where they’ve flaked. I do quite like them though so I plan to refurb them and paint them myself when I get a bit of time, tyres on the fronts aren’t too bad, rears are ancient. Obligatory Mugen pedals and spoon shift knob, mats are from an ep I had made years ago Whale p***s was free from a friend and HKS filter was from Ali, along with the Mugen socks, Password washers, Mugen rad cap and oil cap, and the oil catch can too. Bit of an awkward fitment for the catch can but it’s tidy and it works.

Hello there, I have an issue with my MB6 B18C4. The engine sometimes hesitates sometimes not and the car has very bad idling. It fluctuates a lot. New distributor, new TPS, new MAP, new IACV, new throttle body, new spark plugs and spark plug wires and the car has enough coolant in it. Any ideas?

I'm probably imagining things but after hearing it in every possible intake configuration I have, the questions start rolling. Any time I'm flat on the accelerator and cross the 4500/4600 rpm threshold, the sound very clearly changes tone, not in any way same as a real VTEC, but still in the same kind of sound. It also sounds funny and conspiracy-y because 4600rpm is where peak torque is produced on the D14a8 haha. Still, this is no way a serious post, more like a gimmick for fellow D14 owners to try and find it in their cars and confirm it, have fun lol

Hey, people I have looked around on the internet about my question but I can't find someone talking about it. I was wondering about fitting a Honda Civic EK sedan 6 or coupe sport exhaust on a Honda MB3 from 2000. Does anyone know if it will fit? I have also looked into an MB3 exhaust system but only the rear muffler costs 280 and up. Any information about this is welcome. Thank you!