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Hello Guys Just thought i would give you an update on the ol' MB6 Project. Ive been very busy as of recent sourcing panels for the restoration. Im very chuffed to find some Genuine Body panels including the Whole Upper sill and rear outer arch. Alongside that i have also sourced some Rear inner arch Extension panels where the Sills Meet the Wheel Arch. Unfortunately the Lower/Inner Sill section was no where to be found alongside the front outriggers but thats not an issue at all. i will be starting to Fabricate some New Lower/Inner Sill sections as if you don't know already the Civic MA/MB has Three Segments to the lower sill. The First part being the Front Jacking point section which starts at the sill then wraps itself round the front chassis legs and subframe mounts. Then there is the Middle section where the Front seatbelts are Anchored to. This section is Spot welded to the floor pan to create a sandwich effect (lovely rust trap btw). The Panel Itself is an L Shape as it also forms apart of the inner sill as its all one pressing. Thankfully the rust has not spread up into the vertical section of the panel as the rust has only ate away at the lower part probably due to all the water being trapped there. and Finally the Last segment being the Rear Sill Extension assembly which contains the rear jacking points and the Semi Trailing arm bush mounting. With Fabricating these lower segments it is pretty simple Its just a 90 Degree bend with a flange where the outer skin is spot welded to. With Rover at the time having a Partnership with Honda Luckily the 400 and 45 is the same car in terms of bodywork pretty much. Hence why i have bought Rover sills and Rover Inner Arches (they're probably cheaper too) and they will do the same job. Part Numbers if needed ALA120220 for the Side Panel (do note the side panel is a saloon not a hatchback as they are no longer available.) ALX140020 and ALX140030 for the Rear inner arches. The idea will be to chop the sill segment and rear arch segment off the genuine panel and to replace what is the rotten part on my Civic. With this i can maintain the original pressings of the panel such as the grommet holes. Hopefully in the New year i can get round to producing the Inner sill segments to be used.

just taken my trans off as i’m replacing the clutch and flywheel on my mb2, anyone got any ideas on the torque specs for the flywheel and pressure plate bolts? or where i could find them? thanks in advance

jan 2020. Got a bit of time so thaught I'd start another project thread document my progress with my latest honda. My last civic ended up quite a machine. But unfortunately I had to make the decision to let it go to buy a house. Once got my finances back on track. I really fancied another mb6 as always had a soft spot for them. A another member offered me a clean car so went on a bit of a road trip down south to pick it up. It has just had an engine rebuild fully documented with every receipt and ran sweet as a nut was very happy with it. Unfortunately it only made it 100 miles back towards the Midlands and the bottom end developed a knock. Was pretty p**sed off tbh. But what can I do.

How the the HELL are you supposed to get this lower ball joint out of the knuckle?? On every video I see on YouTube the knuckle lower ball joint has way more clearance than what I got, and it looks like there is quite literally no physical way to get these lower ball joints out without destroying something. Anyone got experience with these? My chassis is an Mb2, D14Z4

Hello all Haven’t been part of a forum for a very long time, but thought there might be some helpful bits I’ll find whilst doing work on the car and need to find on here too. Last car s**t the bed on me and I needed something reliable and somewhat cheap to drive, plus it had to be something I’d enjoy driving and owning, all on a not very large budget. Searched eBay and auto trader for anything Honda and looked at a few different chassis until I came across the mb2. There were a few around but all more money and worse condition than I would have liked, or literally the other side of the country and I didn’t have time to drive that far to get them. Settled on a blue 1.4s mb2 that was around the Leeds area so not too far from me, garage guy wanted a grand, decent condition, few decent scratches too, 56000 miles and no history. Perfect for me. Went to go see it on the night time as only time I could go due to work, car was filthy, oily handprints all over it and didn’t start because of a flat battery. Not a promising start. Test drive was a bit lacklustre, was used to driving a mk1 Octavia vrs so it was a super slouch in comparison, true grandad mobile but instantly I wanted it. Pointed out a few bits on return and said “800 good for you?” He said yes. Few days later I looked in the boot and found they’d left an Autotel code reader/multimeter that’s about £150ish, didn’t know if they’d left it in there so I could clear the eml light on the dash that appeared on the way home but that’s what I stuck with Didn’t take any photos of it before the AliExpress parcels started coming in so I think these are the earliest After it’s first proper clean and wax, paint is in lovely condition, pretty sure it’s a dead man’s car, garaged and lightly used. Alloys are wrecked though, heavy corrosion and really badly brush painted where they’ve flaked. I do quite like them though so I plan to refurb them and paint them myself when I get a bit of time, tyres on the fronts aren’t too bad, rears are ancient. Obligatory Mugen pedals and spoon shift knob, mats are from an ep I had made years ago Whale p***s was free from a friend and HKS filter was from Ali, along with the Mugen socks, Password washers, Mugen rad cap and oil cap, and the oil catch can too. Bit of an awkward fitment for the catch can but it’s tidy and it works.

Hello there, I have an issue with my MB6 B18C4. The engine sometimes hesitates sometimes not and the car has very bad idling. It fluctuates a lot. New distributor, new TPS, new MAP, new IACV, new throttle body, new spark plugs and spark plug wires and the car has enough coolant in it. Any ideas?

Couldn't get into old account so started new one hope that ok. This my civic

i have a question for my d15z8 i want to do a mini me but i saw someone say here that the z8 head is the same as the y8 d16 but only with a vtec e camshaft he said that the best option was to buy a d16y8 or z6 camshaft with barings can someone confirm this if this wil fit ?

I picked up my mb4 a few months ago. I thought i would start a little thread where i post a few pics now and then.... The first few pics are from after coilovers and wheels. Unfortunatly my old phone died with the before pictures.. Currently i have installed coilovers, new set of wheels, custom "type r" grill and a few small things... Plans for next month is custom headlights (angel eyes & demon eyes) with app control if possible. Updates are gonna come when things are getting done slowly. If any questions, feel free to ask.

What is the part number for fuel injector in b18c4 mb6 Civic? Can't find direct fit injectors anywhere exept here https://www.a4h-tech.com/en/beck-arnley-240cc-standard-obd2-injector-b-serie-engines seals are sold separately. Some sites also sell these Acura RDX injectors to be fitted to b-series Hondas etc. https://www.a4h-tech.com/en/oem-honda-rdx-410cc-injectors-with-clips-b-d-h-k-f-serie-engines Any idea how much oem part from local dealer would cost? Does Honda sell injectors separately? I only need one. why are the injectors so hard to find for these Hondas?

I've passed my anual mechanical inspection. However i was told that my rear brakes' perfom poor. Any ideas what could be the culprit? I've changed everything on my front end brake system but did not change the rear hoses yet. Can this cause the rear brakes to perform poorly?

So how many lambda/02 sensors does the MB6 Civic originally have? My car had aftermarket exhaust system since i got it, so i have no idea what's the most ideal/original position of lambda/02 sensor. And also does it originally come with 1 or 2 sensors? If 2 then where does the other one go to? I've never had OEM cat so where does to 02 sensor go to? I know that there is supposed to be at least 1 sensore before the cat or at the cat... Does the OEM header/exhaust manifold have o2 connection or was it directly on the cat itself? I have aftermarket header with plugged o2 connection and the lambda is currently connected directly to aftermarket cat since it already had a connection to it. But is the best place for the sensor at the end of the header pipe before the cat starts? I'm asking all of this because i have constant issues with high emissions. I'm trying to rule out things. ECU could cause all sorts of readings depending on the set up... Right now i'm going to replace the rusted header if that helps. If the header leaks somewhere, it could lead to surprisingly big emission issues. ECU for instance could assume that the engine is running too lean, and compensate it with more fuel so that it runs rich... Has anyone changed thermostat, coolant/radiator cap, coolant temperature sensor? Many people here have issues with emissions on B18c4. So did any of those things fix the issue for someone? Or does the car need a OEM cat? ECU issue regarding non-OEM parts used? These cars doesn't seem to like some of the aftermarket parts if i'm not wrong...

Hello, i want to replace my rear heat shield from brakes and i cant find replacement one, so does ITR or CTR one can be used or MB6 is diffrent?

I bought a p73 ecu for my mb6 and the harness so it can go in. But is this really the best thing to use iv upgraded the cams to skunk 2 stage 1 cams exhaust manifold and inlet soon getting the s80 4.4 fd.Do i need to tune the car in order for everything to work properly or will this p73 ecu do the job.

Hi guys, this is my 1.5i LE MB3 Civic, I purchased it back in June of 2021 and recently passed my test a couple weeks back, the car is wonderful and the spec is great. Does anybody have any information about the LE package? Seems to be the same as the LS just that they were only produced in '98. If anyone has any information about this spec it would be greatly appreciated :)

Hi fellas i want to present my Honda Civic. Things i have done to it: Changed gear oil, gasoline filter and other consumers lol. Had fitted a Vti front spoiler, painted the side skirts colour coded, painted the índice of the headlights black, the grill black and the symbol is wraped in carbon fiber, and i have some more projects in the making. cheers

Hey guys Im in need of some help. I recently bought an Mb6 in Germany and i'm having it inspected on monday. But now, the fog light bulb on the right side is out. Got 2 new ones but im lost on how to replace them. I've seen pictures of it without the black cover around it and was wondering how do I get them of so i can change the bulbs. Hope you can help

This appeared on ebay recently. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/394417810525 It has a W prefix plate, but according to the MOT check site was registered 26th January 2001. The listing doesn't mention it being a personal plate. As far as I can tell, it should be on an X prefix plate if it was first registered on that date. https://www.check-mot.service.gov.uk/results?registration=w215xae

Was reading my Classic Car Weekly and one of the readers had put their car forward for the "value my car" section where they get an idea what their car is worth according to the experts. There was a 98 Rover sterling with around 60K on the clock and most of its history. They recon the value is around 3.5 to 4K and advised to get an agreed value policy on it. Same year (almost) as DD and know quite a few of our Civic M's are either 1999 or older so got me wondering if anyone here has ventured into the agreed value route yet with their Civic. I'm thinking of asking them for a value on DD just out of curiosity, as know the tossers at WeBuyAnyCar dot con (where most insurance companies base their values on now) value her at around £250! Which would maybe buy the alloys and bugger all else! Just with them getting pretty rare now, thinking surely the values (that they are actually worth) have gone up now? Don't want to get caught out if the worst happens so deffo thinking about the agreed value policy. Anyone got one on theirs and if so what value did you get agreed?

Hi all, Recently discovered that my D14 is a lot healthier than I originally thought. The only concern I have is that there is an excessive amount of white smoke from the exhaust on the overrun from 6K down to 3.5k rpm. To add to this I'm having to bleed my coolant once every couple of weeks due to the idle beginning to fluctuate like air is getting into the IACV. Brand new IACV a few months ago. Was looking at swapping the head over anyway, What's a direct bolt-up fit? And what's the best gasket to use? Engine is not boosted, and won't be but is running 108 crank hp, up from 90.

Hi All, Figured I should actually start a post after years of lurking on here - A big belated thanks to all the various threads I've read up on! Think I did post up a 'Hello' thread years ago but it seems to have disappeared. I've had the car for about 5 years now and its a proper joy to drive. Thought it was just because it was my first car and having nothing to compare it to, but after driving/having other cars these Hondas are fun! Only recently started modifying it properly now the insurance isnt shafting me! Mod list: VTIS Front Lip & Skirts (Have the rear lip aswell but prefer it without) Optional Extra OEM big fogs! Leather Steering Wheel - think its the VTIS/Sport one? Honda alloys off an EP (I think) with Toyo Proxies CF2's Heko Wind Deflectors 2.25" Gravity Performance Spoon N1 rep stainless catback Exhaust (For an EJ/EM - just had to lengthen the backbox pipe) - with custom baffle as its too bloody noisy, should have gotten a smaller tubed exhaust! MGZS shocks & springs all round Future plans: Double rear fogs - in the blank space on the tail lights. Coilovers - The car is sitting high at the front with the MGZS setup, the D14 engine is too light for the springs really. When I swapped the suspension from the stock setup the rear dropped 25mm but the front remained the same, I even tried ZS120 springs but no difference. So it'll be nice to even it out and lows! New LCAs & MGZS rear ARB - Ive had this for about 4 years now waiting to go on! The MB2's LCA's dont have the bolt hole needed for the ARB's drop links annoyingly. Need to pick up some EG LCAs but will sort the coilovers first so the shocks fit onto them. Front Strut brace. K&N panel filter (waiting to go on) Rear wiper delete (waiting to go on) Vinyl wrap the chrome trim. Projector headlights (have a spare set of lights just need to get projectors etc) Various maintenance (timing/clutch). Dreams: Respray Engine swap Cheers, Dan

Hi everyone, long time visitor first time poster , I have a 1997 MB2 base model with a d14a8 in. Over the past few month i have been preparing the car as a track car. I have done a reasonable amount of work onto the d14 (Cambelt, aux belts, valve lash, oil change, z6 intake mani, cold air intake, new fuel filter etc) however, recently it has felt very down on power and the car is vibrating a lot. There is no audible knock or rattle from the engine however when doing a routine check i discovered metal filings on the dipstick. Rather than plowing more money into a d14, which other D series would be a straight swap? I know its not as simple as that but I'm looking to do this swap over a weekend with a few a mates. I know the mechanical aspect of doing a swap very well however I am completely clueless with what to do with the wiring. Can anyone give me some ideas?

Hi guys, I guess just abit of a safety announcement? I've currently got a spare seat and noticed the below crack on its drivers seat base! (right next to the mounting bolt hole) Obviously I don't know if the seats were abused previously but thought i'd flag it up incase it was age/fatigue related: Note: It didnt affect my plans for this though : (apparently its not allowed in the house and must stay in the garage haha)