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Found 20 results

  1. Hi. Been told by Dave to get some pics of my car up so here it is. [attachment=2]1Dawns Civic Aerodeck site.JPG[/attachment] [attachment=1]2Dawns Civic Aerodeck site.JPG[/attachment] And an arty one! [attachment=0]Dawns Civic Aerodeck.jpg[/attachment] It's a 1.6ES, so it has full leather interior, A/C, etc. I'm only the 2nd owner, so everythings as it should be! I put it into Honda to have the proper Honda front fog lights fitted, the Honda sunroof wind deflector and got an MP3 stereo too. Just wanting to change the wheels now. Love my aero to bits
  2. Hi everyone, My name's Nishan, since ive been reading through some of the threads I figured id make an introductory post 🙂 Ive got an manual MC1 aerodeck with a D16W4 on 118k that I picked up as an MOT failure about a month ago for £800, its got an enormous stack of history and im the 3rd owner Been fixing her up slowly over the last month, getting the bits done for a fresh MOT, rear passenger caliper was seized when I bought it and was pretty much the first thing I did along with discs and pads both sides on the rear. Next issue to sort was the horn not working which I stupidly assumed was the clockspring since I had the exact same issue on my first car which was a D14 mb6 and I know its a common issue on old civics. Replaced it and ended up buying a used horn since my multimeter packed up so I just guessed it had to be one of the two. Replaced both the sidelight bulbs since they had burnt out and lastly i had an exhaust leak from the mid section and backbox, since someone had previously taken a few speed bumps pretty enthusiastically and put a nice collection of holes on the bottom managed to score the backbox and mid section for £100 on ebay brand new and almost finished fitting it last weekend, just need to drill out the old bolts to the cat that are pretty in there and that should pass me the MOT fingers crossed 😀. Im thinking of doing some coolant bypass bits as I've heard its a good modification on the D series engines. If anyone knows a thread that explains how best to go about it or has done it themselves please let me know, would be much appreciated Im aiming to put it on the road as my daily as I'm currently dailying a manual honda accord CM2 2.2 diesel which has a nasty bit of timing chain rattle, so im gonna switch them around and daily the civic while I replace the timing chain along with any other bits that need doing. Any info in regards to preventative maintenance on the aerodeck would be greatly appreciated as im not super well versed in the common issues these suffer from. Cheers guys 😁
  3. Dave

    ABS sensor bolts

    Does anyone know what size (MM), what size length and what thread the wee bolts are that hold the rear ABS sensor inplace at the rear of the brake disc and along the length of the cable? Every single bolt on mine is gubbed so don't want to reuse them.
  4. when getting the steering wheel grab the airbag/horn ring with all wires and the 4 screws for ring pink wire and white wire are not needed. green wire is horn . red/yellow wire and red wire are for airbag before staring disconnect battery t30 star key to take airbag off unplug airbag and horn and earth wire make shore steering wheel straight 19 mm socket to undo center nut and take column cover off 3 philips screws then there 3 philp screws holding on airbag/horn ring on honda horn wire is red join to mg green wire airbag honda yellow wire to mg red wire and honda green wire to mg red/yellow wire do not solder with airbag plugged in as the heat can set it off put mg airbag ring on column screw 4 philips in. plug wire in. put column cover back on. put steering wheel on. plug airbag and horn in all in and working and srs airbag light is off but dont no if it will work in a crash and i'm not gonna crash it to test that part this is a guide so you will bee doing this at your own risk
  5. i got this back in july 2011 and started modding. here is how i bought it. first of all i took off the rear badges i then lowered it on coilovers. it was a bit low first of all and couldn't get over anything!! (but wouldn't mind it that low again) i then bought my mates wheels, they are in need of a refurb on the lips though i bought a rear mid spoiler off a member on here then this one was only just to get the peeping pedo bear in
  6. Aerodeck MC1 went in for its MOT and JUST failed on its emissions, apart from a rear plate bulb that was the only issue. Engine management light has been on for a bit and upon checking reported as error P0131 - HO2S Low Voltage. My mechanic changed the sensor, reset ECU and the light goes out. During the test the light goes back on (within first couple of minutes) and the car JUST passes the emissions test (engine had been ran hard for a few minutes to warm up the lambda sensor for removal as it was refusing to budge shortly before). So after the test my mechanic looks at the problem, same error code - P0131. Whip out a multi-meter and check circuits etc using the workshop manual. 4 wire sensor Heater circuits work properly, continuity test on car side of 4 pin socket okay Sensor circuit appears okay, but does not have continuity on car side of 4 pin socket, is this normal? What else could be causing the problem? Is there anything else worth checking? Am i potentially looking at a new ECU?
  7. Joined this forum absolutely ages ago and just realised I still haven't uploaded any photos of my car! More to follow when I take some better ones
  8. After fixing lots of little things with my MC1, I now have to face up to the task of fixing her major oil consumption issue. When I bought the car I was told from the previous owner that it consumed around 1l of oil per 1000 miles.. however, after driving to the Hockenheimring and back, I measured its consumption at more like 1l per 300 miles.. not so good eh? The car has done 190,000 miles, and gives a puff blue smoke when approaching the redline.. but will also consistantly burn through oil if I stay under 5k rpm. From outside the car you can really smell the burnt oil even on tickover . I ran a compression test last night, and to my surprise I found out that cylinders 1-3 were all running at around 195psi (-+5psi) after roughly 4 cranks of the engine. However, cylinder #4 was blowing max 110psi, and was literally coating the end of the compression tester with oil after each run. Well there's the problem. I tried the test again with 2 teaspoons of oil in the cylinder, and she blew 120psi.. however there is SO much oil entering the cylinder anyway, that test probably isn't very useful. I am very inexperienced with car mechanics like this, so i will need some help trying to figure out what is going on. So the oil is either entering the cylinder via the valves stem seals or the piston rings right? But with cylinders 1-3 showing such strong compression readings, I find it hard to believe that the rings are going.. unless cylinder #4 has some sort of catastrophic piston ring failure (is that even possible?!). My other theory is that the stem seals have sh*t themselfs on cylinder #4, leaving an oily mess on the valve seat and therefore ruining the seal (and causing my compression and oil consumption issue). I am tempted to pull the head off, give everything a clean and replace the stem seals.. Should I do this or does anyone have a better idea of whats going on?? Cheers
  9. work i done on the first week of owning car new front caliper and painted fixing door lock put my rover 400 alloy on look better that the 13" still wheels painted grill black
  10. Hello Everyone, I've got to change my O2 sensor for the exhaust manifold one. I don't really want to buy a £250 one from dealers. I've tried to look around and best I found was this: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/181503439204 NGK one (NGK0299) - OZA333-H26, Can someone tell me if this will suffice? Its for a Mc1 aerodeck 1.6 vtec 125 D16W4 engine. Some places I see 4 or 5 pin. 500m, 650mm, 350mm ,320mm. My car is a 1999 if that helps. I have tried the search but couldn't find a solid answer. Any more questions please fire them my way Many Thanks
  11. I've got an mc1 aerodeck and have noticed my abs light is missing .most likley bulb has been removed .I done a brake test and and doesn't come on .but at low speeds while turning the wheel the abs will activate for a second .anyone have any suggestions what's going on
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