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Hi all, Manual swapped my D16w4 ES VTEC MB4 recently I have a supalite flywheel fitted , however the engine spins down slowly, and when driving there is very little engine braking (akin to the throttle being partly open) I think I’ve narrowed the fault down to the 3 wire IACV setup Has anyone had this issue? And how have they resolved it?

Bought a 1.5 Aerodeck in Portugal as a runaround and had a local guy i trust fit replacement compressor, evaporator, other thing I can't remember and re-gass the whole thing. We're 99% confident we don't have a leak, everything was flushed ahead of time etc and most of the important components are fresh. However No bueno cold air (which I need to survive out here during the day) On investigation i realised that there's no material difference when the Air Con button is 'on' or 'off' so I -think- it's just pulling in air from outside rather than 'conditioning' it so my best guess is that the switch is borked in some way and not actually spinning the air con system up. Is there a manual way of bodging or triggering the air con system or validating if it's working some other way?

I got a D16Z6 engine for my D14A2 MA8 but I don't have the wiring to plug in the vtec solenoid Any chance I could use the wiring harness from the Civic MB6 B18C4? Thank you ;)

Hi Guys! I have a problem.I had the AC compressor changed fully charged and it still stalls when warm. IACV cleaned(but no cooling line connected) Engine:D14A8 block D16Z6 cylinder head D16Z6 intake manifold with throttle body Lightened flywheel. Thanks for the support!😄✌️

Hello there, I have an issue with my MB6 B18C4. The engine sometimes hesitates sometimes not and the car has very bad idling. It fluctuates a lot. New distributor, new TPS, new MAP, new IACV, new throttle body, new spark plugs and spark plug wires and the car has enough coolant in it. Any ideas?

is it possible to change a 1.6 sohc (shows up to 9k rpm) dashboard with a 8k dashboard (no eco light)?

I've been told that my MA8 edu is OBD2 but I haven't been able to find the OBD2 connector. Has anyone found it or do we just not have one?

Hi! My car has lock/unlock for all doors but only if using the key on the drivers door. I wanna install a remote central locking kit and I found some guides in this forum so I´m recently bought a Hawk Alarm HA-008 kit. The installacion "works ok" but the remote central locking only lock/unlock the rear doors The question is, Has someone have a photo where I can see how is connected or where are the cables came from? An image is attached to show how is "connected" right now. Best regards!

Has any of you replaced the distributor on MB6/MC2 Civics? In North-American forums some people say bad things about aftermarket ones, but OEM ones are quite expensive if i'm not wrong... Would this be any good? https://www.a4h-tech.com/en/ashuki-blue-print-distributor-td-87u-civic-integra-95-01 Or this? https://www.a4h-tech.com/en/dragon-fire-performance-distributor-td-86u-honda-civic-integra (Havent heard about the brand) Which of these would be the best bet? Ashuki product claims to be "OEM Replacement with a perfect quality." Dragon Fire Performance claims to be for high perfomance, suitable for high rpm etc. Has anyone used Ashuki products on their Hondas around here? Good/bad experiences? Also has anyone replaced thermostat with a aftermarket part? Any risks? Good brands? Meyle, Mahle, Gates?

Hi everyone, long time visitor first time poster , I have a 1997 MB2 base model with a d14a8 in. Over the past few month i have been preparing the car as a track car. I have done a reasonable amount of work onto the d14 (Cambelt, aux belts, valve lash, oil change, z6 intake mani, cold air intake, new fuel filter etc) however, recently it has felt very down on power and the car is vibrating a lot. There is no audible knock or rattle from the engine however when doing a routine check i discovered metal filings on the dipstick. Rather than plowing more money into a d14, which other D series would be a straight swap? I know its not as simple as that but I'm looking to do this swap over a weekend with a few a mates. I know the mechanical aspect of doing a swap very well however I am completely clueless with what to do with the wiring. Can anyone give me some ideas?

I've noticed at night time some of my switches don't light up does anyone know what type of twist fit bulbs i need to find/order to replace them?? ones i know are out are clock, mirror adj, headlight adj

I was wondering if anyone else has had an issue where there wipers aren't working on the down action and on speed 2. Intermediate and speed 1 work fine. Any suggestions?

Just purchased a k20 aerodeck, when you start it from cold you have to prime the fuel pump twice as its still got the standard pump in. So when you key on, it doesn't prime the fuel enough so means it cranks over for longer, but if your key in and off twice, then it builds enough. Am I right in thinking king if I fit a walbro 255 pump then it'll be able to prime enough on the first key? As its a bigger, more power pump Thanks in advance

when getting the steering wheel grab the airbag/horn ring with all wires and the 4 screws for ring pink wire and white wire are not needed. green wire is horn . red/yellow wire and red wire are for airbag before staring disconnect battery t30 star key to take airbag off unplug airbag and horn and earth wire make shore steering wheel straight 19 mm socket to undo center nut and take column cover off 3 philips screws then there 3 philp screws holding on airbag/horn ring on honda horn wire is red join to mg green wire airbag honda yellow wire to mg red wire and honda green wire to mg red/yellow wire do not solder with airbag plugged in as the heat can set it off put mg airbag ring on column screw 4 philips in. plug wire in. put column cover back on. put steering wheel on. plug airbag and horn in all in and working and srs airbag light is off but dont no if it will work in a crash and i'm not gonna crash it to test that part this is a guide so you will bee doing this at your own risk

Hi guys! Just got my oem bbig foglights.. my deck didn't have any so have to change the switch. But one set of wires was cutout can you guys help me find out where does the cut wires go? And will i need a separate foglight relay or controller?

Hi guys i need help with my aerodeck! So my deck is fitted with headlight washers, my dimmer switch is f**ked so had to short the black and red wires. But then my headlight washers switches my rear foglights. Rear foglight switch doesn't do anything. Please help!

Ok, when parked up, how long does your battery stay charged in your Civic M? Let us know below! Also include whether you have an after market alarm turned on or not too. Know these cars seem to not like being left parked up with the battery connected for long periods of time, but looking to see what the average park up period is on them before the battery goes flat. And is it just a myth that it is the little clock in the dash that drains it? Use template below (copy/paste) Battery lasts: Alarm on?: Any extra info:

hi all, i done a b18c4 swap on eg and i was wondering if it is possible to de-immobilise the stock p9k ecu to get the car started or is it too much hassle? Also can i use a friends p30 ecu which is mapped but on a b16a2 turbo. i just want to get the car started by my friend is worried his ecu may change settings or something and not work properly when i give it back i've been told a stock p72 ecu will also work but could anyone clarify this is true? thanks

Hi Would appreciate any help as this question is a bit specific i couldnt find anything in search so apologies... To anyone who has bought (or can shed any light into this) foglights for their NON foglight mb, did u get the wiring from the seller to connect them up or can a auto electrician sort this out without the original wiring? Im asking since im after some fogs but one seller doesnt want to bother with pulling the wiring out so im wondering what to do about it. I actually want the fogs for the brackets only so i can search for some better condition accord ctdi ones as mb ones are usually smashed. Any help appreciated so i can decide on getting these off the guy he wants 40 posted and they look smashed but he is local so prob can get cheaper collected

Hello guys, few questions. my 2000 mb2 1.4 engine decided to go bang... I need some help or some pointers for a engine swap. ive searched everywhere for answers and found nothing relating to my needs. what would I need for a b18c4 engine swap into a mb2? would the mb6 dash loom work or would I have to slice up an mb2 loom with the mb6 to make do etc? I know what else I need gear linkages, mounts etc just electronic side of things. many thanks

Hi, does anyone know which wire is the RPM signal wire behind the clocks? (MB6) Thanks.

I want to introduce my lovely Pirat Black MB2. I bought it from the scrap yard for 300€. No working brakes,no working suspention,nothing...except the engine...the engine was like a new one.1,4 90hp 90k km. I startet with the brakes and the bushings. All new ones. So...The brakes was the first thing. New discs with new pads and two new calipers. The suspention was on second place. New bushings kit from Energy Suspention for the whole suspention. Koni shocks. I drived 70 000 km for two years. After that i take a desision that i have to change something with the engine. I read a lot of things about the minime set up(D14 block with Vtec head) But one sunny day a friend of mine send me a photo from a Del Sol(show off car) with only 70k on the clock. The engine-D16z6,the price 800€.Only the engine,the doors and the plastics of the car were not rotten.I boight the whole car for 800€ So i deside to put the engine in my car. Someone told me that is plug and play. Aaaaaaand it was not. I rewire the whole cables from the engine to the ECU. That was such a fun. But at the end it all went good. After that i thought that i could make some changes in the interior of the car. I put beige seats from Rover,black roof from alcantara(self made with my wife),arm rest from VTI I want to apollogise for my bad english. Be save and kick the vtec till the end

HONDA CIVIC 'M' SERIES COMPATIBILITY DATABASE Civic5 accepts no responsibility for any inaccuracies or omissions from this database and all that STEERING AND SUSPENSION COMPONENTS *Wheel and tyre info....Stock ET is 45 for all M's (widest recommended rim with this et is 6.5" at r15? ). DC2 alloys need spacers to fit over 282 calipers *Springs and shock absorbers....Same as dc2/eg/ek/ej/400/45/zs. DC2 coilovers will need the Integra LCA. Matched springs and shocks are specific to the weight of the model so Aerodeck are different as are other civics or Integras. *Front upper wishbone....Same as dc2/eg/400/45/zs. EK is different the bushes are pressed into the arm. *Front lower wishbone....Same as dc2/eg/ek/ej/400/45/zs *Front hub carrier and balljoints....Same as dc2/eg/ek/ej/400/45/zs *Hubs....All M's use 4 x100 pcd hubs from contemporary civics except the MB6 which uses 4 x 114.3 (4.5") pcd hubs from the Integra and Prelude. *Front ARB....Same as dc2/eg/ek/ej/400/45/zs. To upgrade arb size you will need to change the body mounting bushes *Rear ARB....Same as dc2/eg/ek/ej/400/45/zs. To upgrade arb size you will need to change the body mounting bushes. *Front suspension bushings....Same as dc2/eg/ek/ej/400/45/zs *Track rod ends....Same as 45/400/zs *Steering rack...Same as 45/400 *PAS pump...Non Honda engined Rovers use flexible hosing (mounted on right of engine) *Rear trailing arm....Same as dc2/eg/ek/ej/400/45/zs. Drum versions can not be converted to disc. *Rear upper control arm....Same as dc2/eg/ek/ej/400/45/zs *Rear lower control arm....Same as dc2/eg/ej/400/45/zs. Some LCA's do not have a mounting for an ARB. *Rear toe adjuster....Same as dc2/eg/ek/ej/400/45/zs *Trailing arm (compliance) bush....Same as dc2/eg/ek/ej/400/45/zs *Rear suspension bushes....Same as dc2/eg/ek/ej/400/45/zs BODY PANELS AND LIGHTS *Front bumper....All different, to change MA to MB you also need to change bonnet (and front crossmember?) MB6 front lips will not fit the MA without modification. *Rear bumper....MB will fit MA *Sideskirts........MA/MB/45/400/ZS all fit the same mounting points. Vti-s and ZS180 having variations in style. *Front wings....All different *Bonnet....All different. *Bonnet catch and struts....MA/MB/45/400/ZS all same. Catch lever varies on MA. *Scuttle cover....MA/MB/45/400/ZS all same *Windscreen....MA/MB/45/400/ZS all same *Door glass.... MA/MB/45/400/ZS all same *Tailgate....MA/MB same apart from number plate surround. *Tailgate catch and struts....MA/MB/45/400/ZS all same, all standard struts will take the weight of the standard vti spoiler. *Doors.... MA/MB/45/400/ZS all same *Headlights.... MA/MB slightly different outer shape. There are no aftermarket headlights. *Taillights....MB fit MA, MB have clear indicators, MA amber. *Side repeaters.... MA/MB/45/400/ZS all same *Fog lights....MA and MB have slightly different surrounds? *Wing mirrors.... MA/MB/45/400/ZS all fit same, some electric, some manual *Sunroof.... MA/MB/45/400/ZS same. *Handles and other trim pieces.... MA/MB/45/400/ZS same apart from number plate surrounds/ rear light trims. INTERIOR *Front seats and rails....MA/MB/400/45/ZS same fitting. Other Honda seats will need modification to the rails. *Rear seats and rails....MA/MB same ZS will not fit. *Centre console....MA/MB/400/45/ZS same fitting. Some models have a centre arm rest that fits all M's *Dashboard....MA/MB/400/45/ZS same fitting. The MB6 vti-s has carbon dash inserts. *Steering wheel....MA/MB same MB6 has leather finish. Rover will fit but are trispoke so you will not be able to get rid of the Rover airbag and logo. (DC2 will fit with modification?) *Steering column....MA/MB/400/45/ZS same *Switches etc....MA/MB/400/45/ZS same *Instrument cluster....MA/MB/400/45 same. (ZS 180 and MB6 have different tacho's?) *Door cards....MA/MB/400/45/ZS same *Pillar trims....MA/MB/400/45/ZS same *Headlining....MA/MB/400/45/ZS same *Rear mirror....MA/MB/400/45/ZS same *Parcel shelf....MA/MB *Audio components....MA/MB/400/45/ZS same. The MB6 and some Rovers have better speakers and door tweeters that fit all M's. BRAKING COMPONENTS *Front discs....262 except MB6 which uses the 282 system. Some companies make 282 rotors to fit 4x 100 hubs (generally as an upgrade to EG civics) *Rear discs/drums *Front calipers....Single pot lucas 262 system. Same as 400/45/ZS/EG/EK. 282 for MB6. *Rear calipers....Same as 400/45/ZS/EG/EK/EJ. *Master cylinder....Same as 400/45/ZS/EG/EK/EJ.(?) Does the 'teg use this too? *Brake fluid.... *Brake hoses....Same as 400/45/ZS/EG/EK. Drum and disc versions are different. *Rear Disc backing plates part numbers. SMD000080  SMD000090 From RimmerBros (order for MGZS) Just checked still showing in stock around 25 each (as of 21/3/2020)  ECU AND ELECTRICAL OBD Loom/ aftermarket wiring Lamda IACV FIT VTEC controlers Fuses and resistors Battery Alternator D SERIES ENGINES- D14A2, D14A4, D14A3 (EDM), D14A8, D15Z1, D15Z8, D16B2, D16Y5. Engine mounts Sparkplugs Engine oil Oil filter Fuel filter Distributer HT leads Valves and valvetrain parts Cam Cambelt Cam gears Crank Pistons Con rods Intake Throttle body Intake manifold Radiator Fan Thermostat Coolant FI info B SERIES ENGINES- B18C4 Same sort of stuff TRANSMISSION COMPONENTS Shifter UJ Shift rod Extension rod Shift bushings Clutch Master cylinder Reservoir Release cylinder Gearbox Gearbox oil Driveshafts EXHAUST COMPONENTS Manifold....B and D series engines use a slightly different manifold Cat section....UKDM cat (different length from the JDM cat) Mid section....MA/MB all same (?) do rover fit? Backbox....MA/MB all same except Aerodeck which has a longer tail (?) There's probably a lot I've missed off, might be best to improve it as we fill out the list? We probably ought to have glossary for terms (stuff like DC2, EG, ITR, IM, PCD) to make it accessible for noobs and non Honda geeks

What lighting options out there are best, obviously to go in my projectors... currently got 6000 HID bulbs which the light output is good but light distance isn’t great... just wondered what routes others have gone down? And am I likely to get them any better or not?