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Hello guys, its been really rainy windy and average autumn. My car has been under a roof for the whole autumn so i dont know how its so wet in the spare wheel compartment, there was like a 1cm of water in there. For the first time since owning my car for 4 years i notised this problem. Anyone else have or had this problem? Im thinking of the sunfoor rear drains??

Bought a 1.5 Aerodeck in Portugal as a runaround and had a local guy i trust fit replacement compressor, evaporator, other thing I can't remember and re-gass the whole thing. We're 99% confident we don't have a leak, everything was flushed ahead of time etc and most of the important components are fresh. However No bueno cold air (which I need to survive out here during the day) On investigation i realised that there's no material difference when the Air Con button is 'on' or 'off' so I -think- it's just pulling in air from outside rather than 'conditioning' it so my best guess is that the switch is borked in some way and not actually spinning the air con system up. Is there a manual way of bodging or triggering the air con system or validating if it's working some other way?

is it possible to change a 1.6 sohc (shows up to 9k rpm) dashboard with a 8k dashboard (no eco light)?

Hi! Does anyone knows what this round black thing is?

Hi all, So I can confirm aftermarket seats, without cutting frames or welding mounts to car, are completely possible. If you have read my before method with the universal frames this way is a lot easier and more cost effective. After 3 months of research I found a company called Planted Technology, they produced made to order seat sub frames for many cars. I emailed them to ensure my car was not an EK or an EG. I measured up the cars holes and got back the details of the closest fit frames they make. The Honda Accord 4th & 5th gen have the same interior as the MB3/MB6. I took a risk bought the frames and they do in fact directly fit. I admit it was a bit of a fiddle as they had to come from America so may have been slightly warped or bent on delivery, never the less I got them in as seen in the image below Here is a link to the main page, it would better off ordering them from GSM performance Planted Technology https://www.plantedtechnology.com/products/planted-seat-bracket-honda-accord-4th-5th-generation-1989-1997-passenger-right GSM performance https://www.sportseats4u.co.uk/product/planted-honda-accord-bracket/ Things to consider, these frames do not come with threads. M12 Nuts will be needed to fit seatbelts, M8 Nuts and bolts to fit seats to rails or frames, washers highly recommended

Hi everyone, Thought I'd write up a post to help a few people out. Spent 2 hours researching this today. It is possible to fit after market seats in an MB model civic without a tailored/specially fitted subframe. So for all of those that would like a sportier seat, or some racing seats, this is how you do it and what you need List of parts: Seat (of your choice) Universal side mount rails Base mount conversion rails (you will only need these if you are buying seats with base mount/bottom fitting only) How to install seat seat: Remover factory seats and rails from car Remove factory rails from factory seat install universal side mounts to factory rails ( some bolts may need to be removed or cut off) put factory rails back into car with universal mounts attached Install base mount conversion brackets to side mounts install seat to base mount bracket If you have a seat that is side mounts only you will not need the base mount conversion bracket. you can skip step 4 and install the seat directly to the universal side mounts. The great thing about the universal side mounts is that you have a lot of choice in how you can position your seat. meaning you can have more lean in the seat. be higher up or lower down. this is all depend ending on the side mounts you buy and the amount of holes available. List of parts and seats I used to make this possible: Seat - Sparco R100 - https://www.demon-tweeks.com/uk/sparco-r100-seat-7000253/ Side Mounts - Sparco Steel Side Mounts - https://www.demon-tweeks.com/uk/sparco-steel-side-mounts-s-s004902/ Base mount conversion - OMP Base Mount Conversion Brackets - https://www.demon-tweeks.com/uk/omp-base-mount-conversion-brackets-omphc0-0660/ Hope this helps anyone still trying to figure out how to do this.

So the start of this year is going to be taken up trying to address all the little, niggly issues I currently have with my old girl. I'm sure I'll find more as I go but my list for now is 1 - Find someway for reattaching all the loose bits of interior trim/headlining. I have already had a go at some with a spray adhesive but it didn't stay stuck! 2 - Find a way of pulling out and repairing the dents in the rear door/arch, or find someone local to do it for me 3 - Replace sticky front calliper with a shiny new one and give the rest of the system a overhaul with new disks/pads & shoes. 4 - Replace exhaust system, Cat and Lamba sensor as she only scraped through her emission test last MOT. I'm hoping to fund this by selling my Factory original CAT that's currently on her, but I've been having problems getting a price for it as it doesn't have any codes on it. 5 - Find out why my drivers window sometimes works fine and sometimes needs pushing to get it to go down. 6 - Look into why my rear bumper is slightly warped on one side and giving me panel gaps that really annoy me. My wife thinks I'm mad and being too fussy but I cant unsee it lol That lot should keep me going for a while so I look forward to keeping y'all upto speed as I crack on with it. Peace ✌️ Joe

I was watching the boy play gran turismo 7 a while ago, and took this snap of the ek9 interior so I could Google lens it. Seems that there is a double din option there. Would have been mint for the M to have had that as an option. Would also be cool to be able to mate the two together somehow (with lots of filler and probably flock or alcantara or something to hide the joins)

Hi, I've had my MB6 for 3 years now and it has been stood for last 2 years. I just got the car out recently and got so much work to do, but first need to sort the leak on the roof and spare wheel area in boot. Both the roof and boot leaked ever since I got the car but I did manage to fix the roof leak but now it is leaking again and I never got to find the cause of boot leak. Here is what I have done so far. 3 years ago when I first got the car, I noticed the roof lining from front drivers side corner was wet. So I removed the roof lining, removed the sunroof drain tubes, poked a metal wire in. I then removed the roof strips and found a small hole on front driver side (where the roof lining was wet). So I applied lots of tiger seal to block the hole and also along the whole roof strip area on both sides then fitted back the roof strips. I never put back the roof lining and for a year and half my roof never leaked. I then moved onto the boot so removed the tail lights, removed the tail light seals and applied clear silicone on both sides then put back lights and tightened up. I also removed the rear bumper and applied silicone onto the vent/flap thing from outside and also inside. This still did not fix the leak onto the boot. Now 2 years later, after moving the car. I have found the rear half of my roof is wet and also the boot spare wheel area is rusty. I have examined the boot leak and I suspect it is leaking from two areas. On the passenger side, just next to vent/flap thing, there is what I believe it passenger rear sunroof drain tube which is where the leak starts from. There is also a little bit of rust around that area on the arch but the car has been parked up so I doubt it could be the arch. Are the sunroof drain tube prone to cracks over time? I have attached a picture to show you what I mean. Now on the driver side, it's difficult to explain but after lifting up the boot seal, I found a bit of rust which is where I think it may be leaking from. I removed the boot seal completely to check if there is any rust anywhere else but thankfully nope, just on where I suspect the leak is. I also noticed that my tailgate hinges are rusty and cracked, could it be that water is passing through them causing the rear half of my roof to leak? Any help would be appreciated

I've noticed at night time some of my switches don't light up does anyone know what type of twist fit bulbs i need to find/order to replace them?? ones i know are out are clock, mirror adj, headlight adj

Well here it is installed in a car, bits and bobs still to do to finish off but its in and functional Big thanks to dave for his work and letting me finish off the project

Afternoon, has anyone fitted a works bell boss and quick release to their aerodeck? many thanks.

hi folks hi wanted to ask if anyone knows where can i buy the heater core for my mb3, i searched on ebay but unfortnetly i cant put mb models in vechile only appear americans ej ek, so immnot sure if they fit or not, and maybe there is somewhere in europe where i can order one new for under 50€ as seen on ebay for ej ek models. thanks im advance

when getting the steering wheel grab the airbag/horn ring with all wires and the 4 screws for ring pink wire and white wire are not needed. green wire is horn . red/yellow wire and red wire are for airbag before staring disconnect battery t30 star key to take airbag off unplug airbag and horn and earth wire make shore steering wheel straight 19 mm socket to undo center nut and take column cover off 3 philips screws then there 3 philp screws holding on airbag/horn ring on honda horn wire is red join to mg green wire airbag honda yellow wire to mg red wire and honda green wire to mg red/yellow wire do not solder with airbag plugged in as the heat can set it off put mg airbag ring on column screw 4 philips in. plug wire in. put column cover back on. put steering wheel on. plug airbag and horn in all in and working and srs airbag light is off but dont no if it will work in a crash and i'm not gonna crash it to test that part this is a guide so you will bee doing this at your own risk

I would like to replace the heater core (matrix) cause it is leaking coolant. For this I have to take out the heater unit behind the dash. I saw at the service manual that I have to take out the evaporator first. Does anyone know if I can take the heater core out without taking out completely the evaporator but only unscrew it and pick it up a little so as to free up the heater unit to come off? Thanks

Engine is coming back out got loads of new bits to fit that will make this car 1000x better. Come along way from the little 1.4 mb2 I bought for £200 18 months ago. please share the love H22A U2q7 LSD gearbox (ATR) original H22 timing covers. full through custom exhaust (once engine is back in) full poly bush engine and gearbox mount kit for H22 Evo 5 4pot Brembos aluminium 3 core racing rad fresh painted rocker cover (wrinkle red) and gasket recaro trendlines (ATR) aluminum sump and gasket going to be my project over Christmas to get all of these fitted. any info on gearlinkage would be helpful! IMG_8685.MP4

Bit of a random one that's proper left me baffled this afternoon... Original wheel is a bit grim so decided to go for a new Nardi wheel and HKB boss. Did the reading before and bought the EG/ DC2 (airbag) kit. Gone to fit it all this afternoon and the boss feels like its about 1mm too big for the spline. The teeth aren't engaging and I'm able to turn it without the wheels turning, even with the retaining nut back on the column and things tightened. It is the OH-206 kit (according to the box) but it arrived looking like it's been opened so I'm not sure if it's the correct one in the box - as surely that should fit? Or have plumped for the wrong kit? Would have also assumed that with it specifying it was for an airbag model, there'd be something in there for the airbag light delete but that cable is just left dangling in the middle of the hub at the minute... Have attached a pic of the thing offered up... any suggestions on what I'm doing wrong?!

Hello guys, I've finally found a company which makes halfcages for our platform. So if you can put it in the tracktool, daily racecar, weekend turbo warrior, or just for the racecar looks. They have them as a weld in and bolt in. Even a DIy set if you'd like to build it yourselves. Even in multiple different colours! https://www.jp-cages.co.uk/product/honda-civic-mb6-half-cage/

Helloo New to this,But I had this issue with all my MBs,The arabian tent ,Ive used glue before ,but now Im just close to giving up,Any Ideas .Maybe Rip off and staple some leather fabric or limo lights those little leds all over could look cool?

I want to introduce my lovely Pirat Black MB2. I bought it from the scrap yard for 300€. No working brakes,no working suspention,nothing...except the engine...the engine was like a new one.1,4 90hp 90k km. I startet with the brakes and the bushings. All new ones. So...The brakes was the first thing. New discs with new pads and two new calipers. The suspention was on second place. New bushings kit from Energy Suspention for the whole suspention. Koni shocks. I drived 70 000 km for two years. After that i take a desision that i have to change something with the engine. I read a lot of things about the minime set up(D14 block with Vtec head) But one sunny day a friend of mine send me a photo from a Del Sol(show off car) with only 70k on the clock. The engine-D16z6,the price 800€.Only the engine,the doors and the plastics of the car were not rotten.I boight the whole car for 800€ So i deside to put the engine in my car. Someone told me that is plug and play. Aaaaaaand it was not. I rewire the whole cables from the engine to the ECU. That was such a fun. But at the end it all went good. After that i thought that i could make some changes in the interior of the car. I put beige seats from Rover,black roof from alcantara(self made with my wife),arm rest from VTI I want to apollogise for my bad english. Be save and kick the vtec till the end

HONDA CIVIC 'M' SERIES COMPATIBILITY DATABASE Civic5 accepts no responsibility for any inaccuracies or omissions from this database and all that STEERING AND SUSPENSION COMPONENTS *Wheel and tyre info....Stock ET is 45 for all M's (widest recommended rim with this et is 6.5" at r15? ). DC2 alloys need spacers to fit over 282 calipers *Springs and shock absorbers....Same as dc2/eg/ek/ej/400/45/zs. DC2 coilovers will need the Integra LCA. Matched springs and shocks are specific to the weight of the model so Aerodeck are different as are other civics or Integras. *Front upper wishbone....Same as dc2/eg/400/45/zs. EK is different the bushes are pressed into the arm. *Front lower wishbone....Same as dc2/eg/ek/ej/400/45/zs *Front hub carrier and balljoints....Same as dc2/eg/ek/ej/400/45/zs *Hubs....All M's use 4 x100 pcd hubs from contemporary civics except the MB6 which uses 4 x 114.3 (4.5") pcd hubs from the Integra and Prelude. *Front ARB....Same as dc2/eg/ek/ej/400/45/zs. To upgrade arb size you will need to change the body mounting bushes *Rear ARB....Same as dc2/eg/ek/ej/400/45/zs. To upgrade arb size you will need to change the body mounting bushes. *Front suspension bushings....Same as dc2/eg/ek/ej/400/45/zs *Track rod ends....Same as 45/400/zs *Steering rack...Same as 45/400 *PAS pump...Non Honda engined Rovers use flexible hosing (mounted on right of engine) *Rear trailing arm....Same as dc2/eg/ek/ej/400/45/zs. Drum versions can not be converted to disc. *Rear upper control arm....Same as dc2/eg/ek/ej/400/45/zs *Rear lower control arm....Same as dc2/eg/ej/400/45/zs. Some LCA's do not have a mounting for an ARB. *Rear toe adjuster....Same as dc2/eg/ek/ej/400/45/zs *Trailing arm (compliance) bush....Same as dc2/eg/ek/ej/400/45/zs *Rear suspension bushes....Same as dc2/eg/ek/ej/400/45/zs BODY PANELS AND LIGHTS *Front bumper....All different, to change MA to MB you also need to change bonnet (and front crossmember?) MB6 front lips will not fit the MA without modification. *Rear bumper....MB will fit MA *Sideskirts........MA/MB/45/400/ZS all fit the same mounting points. Vti-s and ZS180 having variations in style. *Front wings....All different *Bonnet....All different. *Bonnet catch and struts....MA/MB/45/400/ZS all same. Catch lever varies on MA. *Scuttle cover....MA/MB/45/400/ZS all same *Windscreen....MA/MB/45/400/ZS all same *Door glass.... MA/MB/45/400/ZS all same *Tailgate....MA/MB same apart from number plate surround. *Tailgate catch and struts....MA/MB/45/400/ZS all same, all standard struts will take the weight of the standard vti spoiler. *Doors.... MA/MB/45/400/ZS all same *Headlights.... MA/MB slightly different outer shape. There are no aftermarket headlights. *Taillights....MB fit MA, MB have clear indicators, MA amber. *Side repeaters.... MA/MB/45/400/ZS all same *Fog lights....MA and MB have slightly different surrounds? *Wing mirrors.... MA/MB/45/400/ZS all fit same, some electric, some manual *Sunroof.... MA/MB/45/400/ZS same. *Handles and other trim pieces.... MA/MB/45/400/ZS same apart from number plate surrounds/ rear light trims. INTERIOR *Front seats and rails....MA/MB/400/45/ZS same fitting. Other Honda seats will need modification to the rails. *Rear seats and rails....MA/MB same ZS will not fit. *Centre console....MA/MB/400/45/ZS same fitting. Some models have a centre arm rest that fits all M's *Dashboard....MA/MB/400/45/ZS same fitting. The MB6 vti-s has carbon dash inserts. *Steering wheel....MA/MB same MB6 has leather finish. Rover will fit but are trispoke so you will not be able to get rid of the Rover airbag and logo. (DC2 will fit with modification?) *Steering column....MA/MB/400/45/ZS same *Switches etc....MA/MB/400/45/ZS same *Instrument cluster....MA/MB/400/45 same. (ZS 180 and MB6 have different tacho's?) *Door cards....MA/MB/400/45/ZS same *Pillar trims....MA/MB/400/45/ZS same *Headlining....MA/MB/400/45/ZS same *Rear mirror....MA/MB/400/45/ZS same *Parcel shelf....MA/MB *Audio components....MA/MB/400/45/ZS same. The MB6 and some Rovers have better speakers and door tweeters that fit all M's. BRAKING COMPONENTS *Front discs....262 except MB6 which uses the 282 system. Some companies make 282 rotors to fit 4x 100 hubs (generally as an upgrade to EG civics) *Rear discs/drums *Front calipers....Single pot lucas 262 system. Same as 400/45/ZS/EG/EK. 282 for MB6. *Rear calipers....Same as 400/45/ZS/EG/EK/EJ. *Master cylinder....Same as 400/45/ZS/EG/EK/EJ.(?) Does the 'teg use this too? *Brake fluid.... *Brake hoses....Same as 400/45/ZS/EG/EK. Drum and disc versions are different. *Rear Disc backing plates part numbers. SMD000080  SMD000090 From RimmerBros (order for MGZS) Just checked still showing in stock around 25 each (as of 21/3/2020)  ECU AND ELECTRICAL OBD Loom/ aftermarket wiring Lamda IACV FIT VTEC controlers Fuses and resistors Battery Alternator D SERIES ENGINES- D14A2, D14A4, D14A3 (EDM), D14A8, D15Z1, D15Z8, D16B2, D16Y5. Engine mounts Sparkplugs Engine oil Oil filter Fuel filter Distributer HT leads Valves and valvetrain parts Cam Cambelt Cam gears Crank Pistons Con rods Intake Throttle body Intake manifold Radiator Fan Thermostat Coolant FI info B SERIES ENGINES- B18C4 Same sort of stuff TRANSMISSION COMPONENTS Shifter UJ Shift rod Extension rod Shift bushings Clutch Master cylinder Reservoir Release cylinder Gearbox Gearbox oil Driveshafts EXHAUST COMPONENTS Manifold....B and D series engines use a slightly different manifold Cat section....UKDM cat (different length from the JDM cat) Mid section....MA/MB all same (?) do rover fit? Backbox....MA/MB all same except Aerodeck which has a longer tail (?) There's probably a lot I've missed off, might be best to improve it as we fill out the list? We probably ought to have glossary for terms (stuff like DC2, EG, ITR, IM, PCD) to make it accessible for noobs and non Honda geeks

Hi just out of interest has anyone ever fitted type r ep3 seats and steering wheel?

I had a search to no avail. Anyone know or is there a how to fix the rocking effect on drivers seat? I took off the plastic panel on the seat belt lock side but couldnt make anything of it....it really is an annoying issue.. Any help appreciated

Can anyone recommend somewhere to have a roll Cage installed. I know a few people on here building track cars have had cages installed so where did you get it done and how much did it cost? I want it to be MSA and FIA approved so it can be used for racing. I have contacted Safety Devices for a quote and their FIA approved cage is coming in at 3k for supply and fitting which seems a bit steep to me. Any advice on places and how much it cost them would be much appreciated, especially from anyone in the motorsport community.

Hi everyone the drivers from window mech doesn't work on my car as it is broken. Would a window mech ok of ek etc fit and work or not? also if anyone has a window mech that I could buy that would much appreciated. Thanks